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Old Nov 28, 2011, 01:11 PM
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Hi all.

Can anyone tell me how the 5888 handles compared to Xieda's 9998 and 9958
I'm flying a Zoopa 150 now, but are waiting for an Xieda 9958 to arrive, to take the leap from 3 to 4 ch.
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Old Nov 29, 2011, 08:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bionicon View Post
Hi all.

Can anyone tell me how the 5888 handles compared to Xieda's 9998 and 9958
I'm flying a Zoopa 150 now, but are waiting for an Xieda 9958 to arrive, to take the leap from 3 to 4 ch.
1. the 5888 is much more active and faster than the 9998.

2. the 5888 flies similarly to the 9958, from what I can tell from the several videos I found, the 5888 being a bit slower but MUCH more stable [than the 9958] straight "out of the box" with factory non-adjustment, and equally as fast but a bit more self-correctingly stable and PRECISE when "tracked, tuned & adjusted" as I have all of my 5888s.

Lee
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Old Dec 01, 2011, 08:42 AM
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revision to above

After flying one of my older slower 5888s, I must say that a tracked & tuned 5888 is almost TWICE the heli as those!

That is possible because the unique alu-plate hub hinge-system allows this .... which other 3 or 4ch helis in this size do not [PRECISE tracking, tuning & adjustment]. This requires some expertise and knowledge, as discovered and distributed in my many posts, if not a good measure of care & patience, though!

Lee
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Old Dec 01, 2011, 02:54 PM
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Hi ,
I have both the Great Wall 5558 & the Great Wall 9958 and IMHO the 5558 is the better heli. Certainly better for me. The 5558 is MUCH more robust, so much better to learn on (crash). It is more responsive and more fun to tinker with.
kydlt
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Old Dec 02, 2011, 06:52 AM
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Originally Posted by kydlt View Post
Hi ,
I have both the Great Wall 5558 & the Great Wall 9958 and IMHO the 5558 is the better heli. Certainly better for me. The 5558 is MUCH more robust, so much better to learn on (crash). It is more responsive and more fun to tinker with.
kydlt
Except that I quickly learned how to NEVER crash these [not counting bumps & bounces], I agree with you 100+% !

L
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Old Dec 03, 2011, 07:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kydlt View Post
Hi ,
I have both the Great Wall 5558 & the Great Wall 9958 and IMHO the 5558 is the better heli. Certainly better for me. The 5558 is MUCH more robust, so much better to learn on (crash). It is more responsive and more fun to tinker with.
kydlt
Can you clarify which helis you are comparing? I have never heard of a Xieda (Great Wall) 5558.

Your photo shows a Xieda 9958 single rotor and a Mini-Flier 5888 coaxial. The 5888 should be easier to fly but really should be compared against the Xieda 9998 coaxial. The 9958 would naturally be easier to crash at first.
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Old Dec 03, 2011, 08:30 PM
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Sorry gordonzo,
I meant 5888, as this bb is all about. That would be a random act of typing.
The 9958 is was purchased as a Great Wall 9958, from Focalprice, another direct from China dealer. The box says both Great Wall & Xieda on it.
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Old Dec 03, 2011, 11:47 PM
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Originally Posted by kydlt View Post
Sorry gordonzo,
I meant 5888, as this bb is all about. That would be a random act of typing.
The 9958 is was purchased as a Great Wall 9958, from Focalprice, another direct from China dealer. The box says both Great Wall & Xieda on it.
Ya, I pretty much thought it was DTS (dumb thumb syndrome).

The (very large) company Great Wall Toys makes the Xieda line of helis such as the 9958 model and several others.

http://greatwalltoys.com/en/aboutEn.html

Ok so do you prefer the flight characteristics of the 5888 over the 9958 specifically or just the coax vs single rotor fp? I am assuming your flying experience is somewhat limited? The coax is always going to be much more stable and more relaxing to fly.

Some never want to go beyond the coaxials but although the fp is more challenging it can also be potentially more rewarding if you like fast and frenzied.

I enjoy flying both. My favourite helis are:

NE Solo 210a coax - relaxed indoor flying
NE Solo Pro 260a fp - faster indoor on low rates/outdoor on high rates
NE Solo Pro 328a fp - camping & other outdoors

If the 5888 is actually 'better' than the 9958 then I want one!

I have the 9958 and 9998 on order to compare with my NE's and this is why I am interested in your experiences, so thank you for sharing them.
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Old Dec 04, 2011, 06:08 AM
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I like the 5888s because once properly tracked & adjusted they are both very fast [for a coax of this size] AND totally unfrenzied, stable and relaxing to fly. My very observant birds notice the same thing: I can tell by how they act when I zoom a 5888 around them > they and I trust 5888s in their airspace, although, as noted in some posts a few weeks ago, one of my YOUNG males trusted them a bit TOO much, but has finally learned not to try to attack or land on the blades, even when near the ground and "safely" landing. B.t.w., he was the only one "brave" enough to attack one, but his one rotor-landing attempt has seemingly cured him [of course now I watch even more intently, as I trust the 5888s more than him at this stage in his development: at 2 months now he already has the intelligence of a human 2 - 3 yr-old ].

To repeat from my post above, this massive [OK, only about 40%] performance boost to a very stable, precise and Easy-To-Fly RTF toy heli is possible because of its unique adjustable alu plate hub/hinge system.

Lee
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Old Dec 04, 2011, 10:50 AM
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Hi ,
You tagged me correctly in that I am a limited flight time pilot. The 9958 is the only single rotor that I have, and I have less than an hour on it. I went thru a couple of 3.5 ch toys before getting a 5888. I flew it enough to buy another one, plus buying parts. I am living in a very small place right now, with low ceilings (after 25 years in a tall victorian) so my flite space is limited. Some days I can fly outside. I agree that the coaxials should be easier to fly. I felt that I was good enough with the 5888 to try a 9958 and I found them on sale for USD 19.95, so why not.
So with my limited experience I definately like the 5888. I particularly like that one may tinker with it, and get positive results. (I sure wish I had a 'Marcel' like xlcrlee) I will buy another 5888 sometime soon, when I see a great price. And when I recover ($$) a little more, I want to go up to a larger, outside, electric coax.
There's my 2 cents, and that is about what is is worth.
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Old Dec 04, 2011, 01:08 PM
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Well then it sounds like the 5888 is one of the faster coaxials available. I just might have to try one sometime.

The fastest coax I have is the HQ852. It is also very stable, fast and easy to fly. Because of its size and power band, it needs to be outside for full enjoyment. Moving the servo links outward on the arms makes this thing go well beyond the original design limits. We are working on adapting the stronger and stiffer MJX-F28 blades to avoid blade strikes at these agressive settings.

My second fastest coax is a mildy modded MJX-F27. With the frame lightened, tail boom shortened, and a Zippy 20c battery, it is also pretty quick.

My s107-T38-8913 3ch coax is also fast but a bit squirrely in the handling department.
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Old Dec 05, 2011, 07:29 AM
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Well then it sounds like the 5888 is one of the faster coaxials available. I just might have to try one sometime.
The 5888 is overweight and overpowered, making it a very solid heli [think: Harley], but a LOT of the power is eaten by the rapid mass-mkt production. One can reclaim and actually USE the power lost by untracked, unmatched and unbalanced blades, often with the wrong pitch for max efficiency, lack of lube, imperfect gears not adjusted for perfect meshing, etc. .... by spending some time and carefully using the knowledge I've gained "messing" with these and then passed on in many earlier posts above.

Lee
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Old Dec 08, 2011, 08:07 AM
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like F1 racecar or an old ...

.... steam locomotive: I watched a German steam-loco mechanic on TV explain that these machines can "get sick" and saw him tweak one back into super "health".

One of my older, but very fast, 5888s was making a slight "growling overtone", like an old-time mechanical dentist's drill, instead of the fine, smooth and precise sewing machine sound, or that of a modern fluidic ultrasonic dentist's drill.

So I tweaked a pitch on a blade here (adjusted alu hinge gap) and a coning angle there (upper/lower limit restriction adjusted by micro-bending unscrewed alu plate-end), using a small piece of clear tape on the inner or outer T.E.'s to see what needed what, where! [B.t.w., upper & lower rotors interact w/ each other, so tweaking one rotor will affect the other!]

Result: after ca. 10 min tinkering, no growling .... and super performance with cool fullsize heli sound once again!

NOTE: the final tracking resulted in razor-sharp L.E. viewed in spinning rotor-discs!
Not "almost-sharp" but really sharp > BIG difference ....


Lee
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Old Dec 19, 2011, 01:24 PM
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gt 5888 works great

Hello,
I bought 2 GT 5888's from ebay. Both of them worked out of the box. I had to adjust the trim controls to get them to fly straight, but that was it. I fly them indoors and out. This is the first small heli I've owned and I'm impressed with everything except the battery life (7-10 minutes).

One of the small rotor gears came off and I had to press it back on to the shaft. The other small gear recently stripped. I think I over-revved it while the rotor's were blocked. I would suggest getting a couple of sets of blades and at least one spare motor.
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Old Dec 20, 2011, 02:35 AM
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Originally Posted by jfranklyn View Post
Hello,
I bought 2 GT 5888's from ebay. Both of them worked out of the box. I had to adjust the trim controls to get them to fly straight, but that was it. I fly them indoors and out. This is the first small heli I've owned and I'm impressed with everything except the battery life (7-10 minutes).

One of the small rotor gears came off and I had to press it back on to the shaft. The other small gear recently stripped. I think I over-revved it while the rotor's were blocked. I would suggest getting a couple of sets of blades and at least one spare motor.
Flying longer than 7 -10 min will soon either kill the motors or lead to a short life without a nice cooling period! So a 7 -10 min flt time is very practical.

If you've properly adjusted the main large rotor gear so that it rotates perfectly perpendicular to the shaft, you'll note that it contacts the smaller pinion gear in only one small section along the pinion's length >

Simply slide the pinion up/down and/or reverse it so that the main gear contacts it in a NOT-stripped section ....

Lee
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