Espritmodel.com Telemetry Radio
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Old Jul 06, 2011, 01:08 PM
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Hello Lee,

i have now tighten the screws of the Bladeholder a little bit. Only the outer ones, to mean the bigger ones. Now the Blade are really in line.

My problem with the lower bushing in the upper Main Gear for the lower rotor ;-). Is now ok, i ordered a Ball Bearing for the Bladeholders of an Trex 250 and put the ball bearing in place of the bushing in the gear. The sidemovements of the shaft (Part no. 4) is now smaller than before with the bushing. I have to make the hole for the ball bearing with a 4mm drill a little more bigger. Now the Bearing fits and the heli runs fine.


Thank you very much.

Best regards Steffen
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Old Jul 07, 2011, 05:25 AM
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Originally Posted by steffen1978 View Post
Hello Lee,

i have now tighten the screws of the Bladeholder a little bit. Only the outer ones, to mean the bigger ones. Now the Blade are really in line.

My problem with the lower bushing in the upper Main Gear for the lower rotor ;-). Is now ok, i ordered a Ball Bearing for the Bladeholders of an Trex 250 and put the ball bearing in place of the bushing in the gear. The sidemovements of the shaft (Part no. 4) is now smaller than before with the bushing. I have to make the hole for the ball bearing with a 4mm drill a little more bigger. Now the Bearing fits and the heli runs fine.


Thank you very much.

Best regards Steffen
Good news ....!



[b.t.w., the "bladeholders" are more universally referred to as hubs, in fact as hinged hubs, and even more technically as
"simply-hinged hubs". not that anyone cares
]
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Old Jul 07, 2011, 11:22 PM
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Originally Posted by xlcrlee View Post
Unless their motors are dying, resulting in shorter flt times till they're replaced, all of mine take from 60+ to 85 min for a full charge with supplied 220v charger. I must assume it's because mine are mostly SO well tuned & adjusted that they require much less current to fly and thus can use more of the LIPO's capacity.
Hmm, I never thought about it that way, but that makes sense. It also takes at least an hour to charge mine and that explains why.

When I first got the heli there was more friction when turning the rotors than there is now after I lubed up all the bearings and shafts. So now the motors require less torque to turn the blades and therefore less power!
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Old Jul 09, 2011, 08:22 AM
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Clever Chinese

I wonder if anyone has noticed: written on front of the box for the very popular Silverlit PicooZ-1 (sold in N.A. as TwinThunder by Spinmaster/AirHogs) -- semi-scale Boeing CH-46 Sea Knight, misnomered as CH-47 Chinook -- produced several years prior to the 5888 >

- 3 Channel Full Function Control
- Advanced Multi-Role Tandem
- Incredible Stability And Complete Control
- Hobby Grade Flying Performance


and on the 5888 box >

- 4 Channel Full Function Control
- Incredible Stability And Complete Control
- Advanced Multi-role Tandem
- Hobby Grade Flying Performance


oh, no, G.T. forgot to capitalize one letter ....


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Old Jul 11, 2011, 03:11 AM
We can rebuild it!
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Originally Posted by xlcrlee View Post

oh, no, G.T. forgot to capitalize one letter ...
Interesting, it says tandem evn though it's a single coax, I'll have to check my box if I still have it.
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Old Jul 12, 2011, 07:14 AM
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Originally Posted by djdavies83 View Post
Interesting, it says tandem evn though it's a single coax, I'll have to check my box if I still have it.
Might make more sense in Cantonese; anyway, they got the TWO rotor part ....!
Lee
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Old Jul 16, 2011, 11:01 AM
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Two weeks ago I got my new blue 5888 from Marcel: it was almost perfect out-of-the-box, and I could only tweek a bit more performance with my "super" tuning.

It is a great aircraft!

Today a got another new, but red one (both have the new long pinion gears and each has two white-topped motors). It was not assembled so well as that blue, but flew fine o.o.t.b. After several hours swapping parts, putting in matched blades and properly re-locating quickly factory-assembled large & small gears, etc. it is a MONSTER.

Super fast!

Super maneuverable!

Even better than the new great blue one (the reds often have more servo-throw)


It is an even greater aircraft!.

A Dynamic Duo which are now in storage for the future (in case G.T,. stops making them so well!).


I am totally amazed & happy ....!


Lee
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Old Jul 18, 2011, 02:49 AM
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Bottom rotor not driving , help please

Hi all, I found this site via google search for help on my 5888 that I crashed.

I crashed this many times without problem however the last crash resulted in the bottom rotor no longer driving. I have checked the motors and both are driving well, the problem is that the upper cog that drives the lower rotor now drops down and disengages from the motor cog. I am not sure whether part has slipped on the shaft or how this cog is supposed to stay in position.

Any tips would be greatly appreciated from this brand new member
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Old Jul 18, 2011, 05:12 AM
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Bottom rotor not driving after crash

Aaa
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Last edited by Spanky73; Jul 18, 2011 at 05:14 AM. Reason: Double posted
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Old Jul 18, 2011, 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Spanky73 View Post
Hi all, I found this site via google search for help on my 5888 that I crashed.

I crashed this many times without problem however the last crash resulted in the bottom rotor no longer driving. I have checked the motors and both are driving well, the problem is that the upper cog that drives the lower rotor now drops down and disengages from the motor cog. I am not sure whether part has slipped on the shaft or how this cog is supposed to stay in position.

Any tips would be greatly appreciated from this brand new member
1. remove the bolt from the upper rear left side of the left side-plate, unscrew the bolts from the bottom alu plate, pull the upper rear side of the left plate and remove the bottom plate

2. loosen but don't remove the two bolts in the lower large gear. DO NOT remove the shaft from the gear!!!

3. rotate and slide the outer rotor shaft tube into the upper large gear, then slide the inner wire shaft tightly through the lower gear brass center until it protrudes and BOTH shafts are locked together.

4. microscopically loosen the shafts vertically from each other so that when the shafts are HORIZONTAL the upper rotor does not move the lower rotor when turned by hand.

5. alternatively tighten the bolts in the lower large gear until the wire shaft connected to the upper rotor will not rotate when the lower gear is held still (don't touch the teeth of the gear with anything harder than your finger!).

6. test fly.

7. re-assemble side plate
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Old Jul 18, 2011, 09:30 AM
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some useful info

Just before putting my above-noted "super" new red 5888 into storage I noticed it had a wobbling around the vertical axis, resulting in about a 1 ft. [10 cm] dia. circle. I first tried several tighter upper rotor links. No real change. Then I tried different blade sets, and super fine-tuned the heli & rotor system.. Flattened both coning angles. Smoother, some change, but still oscillating. FINALLY, I discovered that one hole in the flybar was a bit tight (the pin is tight in the shaft and looser in the flybar to let it rock freely). Replaced flybar.

Fixed: NO wobble .... and much smoother than before, thanks to all my tuning effort.


Since the entire process took more than 20 hours (but only four charge cycles), I learned a few things and used some old tricks >

1. the outer large hub/blade bolts are NOT the same, even if they so seem. always use the SAME bolt in the same hole to avoid stripping it!

2. if it does strip, before using CA gel to tighten it, try some other bolts. I found that 1:8 is large enough to fit tightly in an otherwise stripped hole!

3. ALWAYS use CA get on the main hub/blade bolts as they protrude through the lower alu plate > it is 98% NOT possible to fine-tune these rotors without this! PERIOD!

4. the blue-dotted grey-topped left motors are likely manufacturer (not G.T.!!) defective! use the white-topped ones:
the SUPER red & the SUPER blue each have white-topped left motors ....

Lee
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Old Jul 20, 2011, 10:43 AM
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how fast ....?

What I meant by "fast" in Post #667 above, is 12m in about 0.7 sec, or 20 KPH / 12 mph.

A definitely non-scale speed ....!

Lee
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Old Jul 21, 2011, 12:06 PM
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Left Right Roll servo not working? No sounds?

I used my 5888 a couple times - seemed really great - very smooth sound, smooth servo sound on the front back roll left roll right.

Now I don't think my roll right and left servo is working. I turn the heli on, the transmitter - it links up - and if I press forward back I hear and see the servos go - but left and right - I hear nothing, see nothing.

trimming does nothing either.

If I try to take off, or take off into the air - the thing just falls right really fast.

Any thoughts? Maybe a solder point came off or something on the board? I'll have to take her apart and look.
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Old Jul 22, 2011, 09:34 AM
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Originally Posted by jonnyrockets View Post
I used my 5888 a couple times - seemed really great - very smooth sound, smooth servo sound on the front back roll left roll right.

Now I don't think my roll right and left servo is working. I turn the heli on, the transmitter - it links up - and if I press forward back I hear and see the servos go - but left and right - I hear nothing, see nothing.

trimming does nothing either.

If I try to take off, or take off into the air - the thing just falls right really fast.

Any thoughts? Maybe a solder point came off or something on the board? I'll have to take her apart and look.
These servos are delicate and can easily break. The motor can burn out as well as a micro-resistor in the PCB servo curcuit. As you remove the servo, check the servo leads for current flow with full left or rt stick: if none, the heli is dead (PCB). Check if the servo motor turns when you drive it with a 1.5 volt alkaline.

I have replaced MANY servos in these, mostly because of LOTS of use ... or because something momentarily blocked the servo motion and killled the motor > NOT possible with ruined PCB, however!

It is possible to FREE a locked servo by turning the lower gear with a toothpick many times and driving the white plastic "rider" up/down. I ALWAYS lube the servo gears and the threaded vertical drive-shaft.

Lee
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Old Jul 29, 2011, 08:03 AM
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reducing/eliminating abrupt re-stabilization "shudder"

I noticed that in most 5888 videos (incl. my posted "birthday party" vid*), the heli briefly rocks/shudders after abrupt rt.-stick input or when quickly flying through (even self-) turbulence.

However, I found that my perfectly-tuned 5888s, w. adj. coning angles (which must be diff for each individual heli!), tracking, blade-balance, etc., do not shudder so!

One of mine, which I had been adjusting to incr. its input-response (speed up & be more agile), did slightly shudder (it was much worse in outside turbulence!), until I calmed it down by reducing its increased coning angles till they were only a few deg. positive, plus re-adj. for perfect tracking.

And, of course, the upper rotor link must have very little play! The latest 5999s now come with an extra upper link, b.t.w.

Lee


*This video, like all "my" posted vids, was not made by me, as I currently have no camera or way to upload a vid! It was a "lucky accident", made last year as I was first learning the technical "in's & out's" of adjusting & flying 5888s!

While I still wouldn't attempt high-speed circles
[left: 7m/s = 25KPH/15mph > faster than straight!, since the swashplate gets tilted more by TWO servos when in a fast circle] in such a narrow space, I can now do fast banked turns in reverse, as well as 2 - 3 axial rotations/circumference while circling [think: skater/snowboarder].


tiny G.T. Model 4-ch 2.4G heli at birthday party (1 min 42 sec)
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