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Old Jun 15, 2011, 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by scorp View Post
i dont have this bird but do have a similar setup on another and this is what i would try, first off remove those servo arm links from the swash arms (they should just pop off) then check your servo with radio on to make sure they are moving up and down freely, if not see if something is stuck in there like a piece of dirt, if that checks out next check with your hand that the swash assembly can freely tilt in all directions without the servo arms, if not then your problem is inside the swash setup most likely a brass bevel inside got lodged, in that case you will have to strip it apart and pop that bevel back in place to free it up, i had that happen to me once after some bizarre crash.
Quote:
Originally Posted by xlcrlee View Post
Use a small pointed WOODEN round toothpick (or make the equiv.) and use it to rotate the large gears at the bottom of each white vertical servo, so that the white plasitic pieces that push the vertical pushrods up/down, get pushed/screwed upward (rotate the gears clockwise, viewed from above).

Then try the servo functions again. It may take 10 or more iterations of the above.

If nothing then happens and the servos remain inactive, although the servos are easily replaced by skilled hobbyists, it's very likely something in the PCB is fried by your mishandling of this NON-toy (see instr.!) helicopter .. and thus not repairable.

Best choice, if the servos remain dead, center the servos (using toothpick) and use this one learn to use the yaw functions. Then buy a new one (and of course try to be more careful how & where you fly it).

Lee
I really appreciate the tips, I moved the large gears, making it more loose, by the time I turn on the heli it returned by itself for the right place, worked on both of them.

The heli is back to normal the comands are working, but it has no battery now, I'm charging it to test if it's 100% back!

Thanks for the help!
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Old Jun 16, 2011, 11:10 AM
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re: above-posted 5888 swashplate advice [& failed servo ftn, as posted above]

The 5888 swashplate [called "bearing" in the parts list] is not connected to the outer shaft in any way.

Rather, the alu shaft closely passes through it, and it is freely suspended by the lower rotor links & the servo links! Any unlikely caught dirt, etc., btwn the swashplate & shaft can be easily felt and removed ....

Lee
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Old Jun 18, 2011, 10:54 PM
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I found a local seller on eBay selling the 5888 and I just wanted to know if this looks like the ones you have gotten. The box seems to look a little different than pictures I've seen elsewhere and it doesn't appear to say 5888 except on the heli itself. Can anyone confirm that this is genuine and not some copy?
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Old Jun 20, 2011, 05:26 AM
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Originally Posted by The6uest View Post
I found a local seller on eBay selling the 5888 and I just wanted to know if this looks like the ones you have gotten. The box seems to look a little different than pictures I've seen elsewhere and it doesn't appear to say 5888 except on the heli itself. Can anyone confirm that this is genuine and not some copy?
Hi , i bought my 5888 of ebay and i have it for 2 weeks now . It flies GREAT ! My box looks exactly like the pictures you posted , and i really do think it's the original one , well made and flies great !
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Old Jun 20, 2011, 05:53 AM
We can rebuild it!
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That's exactly the same as mine too, only difference assuming it's not just the stock images is that mine has a USB charge cable, it did not come with a wall wart.

It is the only 4Ch I have, I really miss not having it flying at the moment.
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Old Jun 20, 2011, 09:23 AM
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Originally Posted by djdavies83 View Post
That's exactly the same as mine too, only difference assuming it's not just the stock images is that mine has a USB charge cable, it did not come with a wall wart.

It is the only 4Ch I have, I really miss not having it flying at the moment.
Sorry to read that [I'm flying 3 that are working great and 2 more spares waiting for Marcel & I to get together, as I prefer a hand-over rather than a mail-over]. And all mine have the same box, w/ wall-charger and no USB.

Lee
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Old Jun 20, 2011, 09:48 PM
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Glad to hear that it looks correct because I ordered one for myself!

I also took Lee's suggestion and ordered some hobby lube and will have to read through this topic some more to figure out how to do all the other tweaks to get it flying perfect like his.
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Old Jun 23, 2011, 09:29 PM
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Well, I got my 5888 today and I really like it so far! I do have to work on my 4ch flying skills though.. I'm not used to the rotation control being on the left stick yet and keep strafing left and right instead of turning. I like that it has a high and low speed setting because the low setting makes it easier to learn to fly, but the high will be more fun once I get the hang of it.

As for Lee's tuning tips, I have lubed everything and noticed how much smoother the blades rotate now and when the throttle is cut, the blades spin longer than it did at first. I've also tried tracking the blades but I'm having trouble telling if they're good or not. I have also tried getting the coning angles to match on either side but it's difficult to match the amount of play in each.

But anyways, now I see how you (Lee) enjoy making your helis perfect and I'm starting to feel the same about mine! I just need to learn to control it better so I can have more fun flying it and then one day move on to the next step.
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Old Jun 24, 2011, 06:44 AM
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Originally Posted by The6uest View Post
... I just need to learn to control it better so I can have more fun flying it and then one day move on to the next step.
Follow the Wright Bros.' strategy > short, low safe flights at first!

Lee
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Old Jun 24, 2011, 06:58 AM
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stripped-down DE-light

Actually, I really like the lights on my 5888s (eases indoor flight). But something in the PCB in one of my older red ones failed and both fwd LEDs quit! Although the tail LED still blinked, after I couldn't find any loose wires or broken connections, and knowing that re-soldering the large LED wires to the PCB can overheat something and kill the left servo!, I removed all 3 LEDS and all their wires! Then I also removed the translucent white cowling cheeks .... and the heli actually looks very cool!

a Mean Machine!

"Hot" (-looking, anyway)

The weight saving & reduced rotorwash drag added a tiny bit more "zip", too!

Lee


P.S. I still much prefer the lights, nonetheless [but one now-"Hot" one, out of my 5, without lights is OK]
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Old Jun 24, 2011, 08:09 AM
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Originally Posted by xlcrlee View Post
Follow the Wright Bros.' strategy > short, low safe flights at first!
Yeah, I'm doing that some but I keep wanting to go higher and faster! I wish the battery lasted a little longer or didn't take so long to charge at least. The battery appears to be about the same size as the one in my S107, but it takes twice as long to charge it! I guess it's because the 5888 charger outputs only 3.7V while the S107 has a USB charger which outputs ~5V. I wonder if it would be ok to use it's charger for the 5888 since both batteries have the same voltage and the plug is the same..

I also wouldn't mind stripping the metal and excess weight off of a 5888 to be able to add a mini video camera on to, but I would have to get another one for that cause I want to keep one stock.
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Old Jul 01, 2011, 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by The6uest View Post
Yeah, I'm doing that some but I keep wanting to go higher and faster! I wish the battery lasted a little longer or didn't take so long to charge at least. The battery appears to be about the same size as the one in my S107, but it takes twice as long to charge it! I guess it's because the 5888 charger outputs only 3.7V while the S107 has a USB charger which outputs ~5V. I wonder if it would be ok to use it's charger for the 5888 since both batteries have the same voltage and the plug is the same..

I also wouldn't mind stripping the metal and excess weight off of a 5888 to be able to add a mini video camera on to, but I would have to get another one for that cause I want to keep one stock.
I charge my 5888 with the usb charger of my 6020 , works perfect and charges faster ! With wall charger +- 45 min , with usb charger +- 30 min , both give me +-7 minutes of flight time
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Old Jul 03, 2011, 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by jonas hove View Post
I charge my 5888 with the usb charger of my 6020 , works perfect and charges faster ! With wall charger +- 45 min , with usb charger +- 30 min , both give me +-7 minutes of flight time
Unless their motors are dying, resulting in shorter flt times till they're replaced, all of mine take from 60+ to 85 min for a full charge with supplied 220v charger. I must assume it's because mine are mostly SO well tuned & adjusted that they require much less current to fly and thus can use more of the LIPO's capacity.

A good check you can make is to let the heli use its charge till it can only fly in ground effect, frequently check for motor heating, and stop when the rotors start to slow down their initial spin-up acceleration. This is usually ca. 20 sec before auto-cutoff. THEN you can find out how much capacity the LIPO actually has by recharging it, and how much of it has not been used because of shoddy energy-requiring set-up. Try it ....!

Lee
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Old Jul 04, 2011, 07:29 AM
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weaknees found - lower bearing of inner shaft

hello all,

i got this great heli too and it flies very well.

After a hour of flighttime, i look at almost everything and found that the lower bearing of the inner shaft gets loose. the beraing fit very good in the upper gear but the shaft gets no more support like when it was new.

have someone replaced the bearing?

i found there some kind of grease but the grease looks like gold grease because of the dust from the metall of the bearing.

maybe i try to replace the bearing with a ball bearing with the dimension of 1.5mm x 4 mm (outer diameter) x 1.2 mm (thickness). The inner diameter of 1.5mm is a little bit tighter than the original bearing.

how should i modify the blade holder to get a razor sharp blade tracking?

thank you all very much for your information.
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Old Jul 05, 2011, 08:18 AM
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how should i modify the blade holder to get a razor sharp blade tracking?
First try to jist adjust with only the four bolts, allowing ca. 4 mm blade-tip movement upper rotor, and 3 mm for the lower. Use bits of clear tape on the trailing edge of one of each set of blades to see which blade has or needs more lift relative to the other. Also place the tape outboard at the tip to see if one blade is or needs to rise higher than the other in flight.

NOTE: as I've repeatedly written, more vertical blade movement also INCREASES its pitch and thus lift! [these fwd-swept blades incr. pitch in flt].

If that doesn't work, remove the main blade bolts to avoid stripping the screw holes! and use the blades to carefully bend the alu plates, guided by the info from the tape bits > DO NOT lose the essential tiny brass bushings in each blade root!

If THAT doesn't work, if one blade needs more vertical tip movement when fully tighted, remove/SAVE the bushing and lightly sand the inner end of the blade root top and/or bottom (sanding the bottom allows more coning angle). Conversely, w/bushing temporarily removed, add a MICRO-layer of CA gel (not liquid!!!!!) to slightly thicken the blade root of a too-loose blade; sand smooth.

Use intelligence & patience ....


Lee
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