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Old Apr 20, 2011, 04:32 PM
when is the wind stopping??
markkona's Avatar
Malta, Marsaskala
Joined Apr 2011
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Originally Posted by markkona View Post
thanks Lee i think I will try that solder saw a vid on youtube how to use it and it might work for me I guess since I'm quite good at DIY
little update managed to resolder all loose wires and heli is back to flying but it s like a three channel heli now since after much tweaking and swea ahhaing I managed to make it hover and go forward and backword without the use of the right servo(looking from back of heli) it seems that the left linkage is used for forward/backward movement and the right for left/right hover. anyways I just did an 8minute flight with almost no crashes on the net I coundn't find one of the small rotors so i replace it but I did find the whole pcb board but the cost is half the 5888's cost such not really worth it.
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Old Apr 20, 2011, 07:00 PM
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Joined Mar 2011
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Has anyone ordered a 5888 from Focalprice? Wondering about their packaging/ship time/any issues?
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Old Apr 21, 2011, 04:44 AM
when is the wind stopping??
markkona's Avatar
Malta, Marsaskala
Joined Apr 2011
1,735 Posts
I ordered one abt 3 days ago but I am very far from the USA since I live in Malta so am expecting it between 14 and 20 days to avrrive
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Old Apr 22, 2011, 08:25 AM
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Zurich
Joined Apr 2006
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EASY tuning Tip [BIG effect!]

The motor pinion gears have a smooth-operating "sweet spot" up or down on the motor shaft with up to maybe 20% less resistance!

The gears must be experimentally slid up/down on their shafts and the corresponding rotor pulled upward by hand (same direction as lift force in flt.) and hand-rotated IN REVERSE to find the "sweet spot" for each one.

NOTE: this will be diff. for each motor/heli!

To easily do this, I use a small plastic tube (cut from a cotton swab ear cleaner) with a central bore large enough to loosely go over the motor shaft, invert the [ASSEMBLED!] heli, support the top of the motor with a wooden block and gently tap the gear to slightly raise it (toward the motor). Then try hand-rotating the rotor as above. Next, I use small nail scissors from behind the gear, through a slot, to pry the gear down (away form the motor), and try again.

Carefully sliding the gear up & down in this manner allows one to find its optimal position! And of course LUBE w/ special model train lube!

Lee



reminder: using the many rotor-adjustment & other tuning tips I've variously posted throughout this thread .... one can turn a "Trabi" into a racing Porsche!
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Old Apr 22, 2011, 09:31 AM
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United States, CO, Grand Junction
Joined Mar 2011
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Thanks for the info

Quote:
What works for me is heating the larger gears in the still-assembled heli with a hairdrier (careful! > rotors, etc.!!), and using a toothpick, etc. to poke, push and/or lift the various not-level edges of the gear until they remain level! Which they eventually will ....

Thanks Lee! This weekend Iíll get out the hair drier and work on the lower gear.

I was trying to find your video on YouTube flying your 5888 to see how it compares with the speed of my heli. It does not seem to be there. Do you have a link?

What do you do if the threads on the alu plates are starting to strip? Does some CA gel on the threads work?

The 5888 has been so much fun(both tuning and flying) that I have another on the way, along with some extra blades. You are a big influence Lee! Without all this forum I would have never found this heli.

Robert
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Old Apr 22, 2011, 12:57 PM
when is the wind stopping??
markkona's Avatar
Malta, Marsaskala
Joined Apr 2011
1,735 Posts
Well it seems after all the initial problems were solved 1way or another, now a new one has cropped up. My 5888 is not lifting more than 1 ft off the ground after a full charge and this has me suspecting either the battery has died on me or both motors have gone weak at same time(the latter is highly improbable but you never know!!) won't buy another gt model from ebay that's for sure. Fingers crossed the one from focalprice.com will be of higher quality and live longer since I'll be honing my flying skill on it before moving to a bigger heli for outside flying in future
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Old Apr 23, 2011, 11:29 AM
Vroooom putta putta putta
SubtleT's Avatar
Joined Feb 2011
1,092 Posts
I find rotor span to be a clumsy comparison since so many variables exist in terms of the blades' chord, pitch, etc. so I prefer to see weight, nose-to-tailtip length, full height, and battery voltage & capacity. Those metrics help me judge scale much more reliably.

The G.T. 5888 weighs 47 grams from what I can find.

22.5cm long (9") and 19cm high (7.6") so it's a "high-hat" (almost a super-high-hat) heli with that ratio.

Battery is 3.7 volts and 180mAh.


Whew! This is heavy for its class and the battery is small for this weight. The high-hat's I've tried to fly in 2 MPH breezes were... not very good. Just how sloppy are the blade grips? This means it ought to be an indoor flyer so may as well be IR.

But everyone says these are good flyers hmm? Well the price has been right lately.
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Old Apr 24, 2011, 10:42 AM
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Zurich
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Originally Posted by SubtleT View Post
I find rotor span to be a clumsy comparison since so many variables exist in terms of the blades' chord, pitch, etc. so I prefer to see weight, nose-to-tailtip length, full height, and battery voltage & capacity. Those metrics help me judge scale much more reliably.

The G.T. 5888 weighs 47 grams from what I can find.

22.5cm long (9") and 19cm high (7.6") so it's a "high-hat" (almost a super-high-hat) heli with that ratio.

Battery is 3.7 volts and 180mAh.


Whew! This is heavy for its class and the battery is small for this weight. The high-hat's I've tried to fly in 2 MPH breezes were... not very good. Just how sloppy are the blade grips? This means it ought to be an indoor flyer so may as well be IR.

But everyone says these are good flyers hmm? Well the price has been right lately.
1. One reason it handles so nicely and predictably, not "flitting around" -- is its weight (& disc-loading). But it also has a (relatively) lot of power .... so it CAN make very abrupt manuevers (when so set-up).
Initial climb rate, from an earlier Post > "After removing the vibration [ http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...5#post17715745 ], the "old" 5888-R now climbs (at full charge) at 1.5+ m/s [5 ft/sec] .... "

and my "HOT" 5888-B at 1.8+ m/s [6 ft/sec]!

2. The blade-holders (they are 3-D hinges, not "grips" > see Wikipedia re: rotor & hinges) are relatively soft alu, allowing VERY fine & PRECISE adjustment of pitch, pitch-incr. w/ RPM [fwd-swept blades!] AND coning angle! THAT is what makes the 5888 such a wonderful toy for anyone who wishes to easily "upgrade" one. And a wonderful toy for anyone else who doesn't care ....!


3.An out-of-the-box un-tuned/un-finely tracked 5888 will fly in a gentle breeze with no fwd trim adj. Mine can easily fly in 7+ mph [12 KPH] gentle breezes .... w/ hover-neutral trim! They look very cool high up [seemingly, as they ARE tiny!] and doing realistic full-size heli flying. i particularly enjoy finding little thermals, b.t.w.


Lee
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Old Apr 24, 2011, 10:50 AM
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Zurich
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Originally Posted by Eyeman View Post
What do you do if the threads on the alu plates are starting to strip? Does some CA gel on the threads work?
Robert
First trick > a little CA gel (never normal liquid CA!!!!) on a tooth pick onto the lower plate threads with blade removed, heat briefly w/ hairdrier, scrape off any CA gel that got inside blade holders with toothpick, then quickly start insert blade (don't lose bushing!) and screw in the bolt.

Second trick > once adjusted, tiny amoint of CA gel around exposed threaded-through bolt end to lock it in position.

Lee
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Old Apr 25, 2011, 10:10 AM
when is the wind stopping??
markkona's Avatar
Malta, Marsaskala
Joined Apr 2011
1,735 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by xlcrlee View Post
The motor pinion gears have a smooth-operating "sweet spot" up or down on the motor shaft with up to maybe 20% less resistance!

The gears must be experimentally slid up/down on their shafts and the corresponding rotor pulled upward by hand (same direction as lift force in flt.) and hand-rotated IN REVERSE to find the "sweet spot" for each one.

NOTE: this will be diff. for each motor/heli!

To easily do this, I use a small plastic tube (cut from a cotton swab ear cleaner) with a central bore large enough to loosely go over the motor shaft, invert the [ASSEMBLED!] heli, support the top of the motor with a wooden block and gently tap the gear to slightly raise it (toward the motor). Then try hand-rotating the rotor as above. Next, I use small nail scissors from behind the gear, through a slot, to pry the gear down (away form the motor), and try again.

Carefully sliding the gear up & down in this manner allows one to find its optimal position! And of course LUBE w/ special model train lube!

Lee



reminder: using the many rotor-adjustment & other tuning tips I've variously posted throughout this thread .... one can turn a "Trabi" into a racing Porsche!

this has worked for me thanks lee. the 5888 is back in the air
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Old Apr 26, 2011, 11:18 AM
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Zurich
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".... keep 'em flying!"
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Old Apr 26, 2011, 11:56 AM
Vroooom putta putta putta
SubtleT's Avatar
Joined Feb 2011
1,092 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by xlcrlee View Post
3.An out-of-the-box un-tuned/un-finely tracked 5888 will fly in a gentle breeze with no fwd trim adj. Mine can easily fly in 7+ mph [12 KPH] gentle breezes .... w/ hover-neutral trim!
I'm not trying to pick a fight, but to say this sounds like sheer fantasy would be mild.

I hope it is true, it would be great if it is. However it seems to fly in the face of everything I have seen for myself or even heard about for any other coax.


Perhaps your idea of "tuning" is to add so much weight up front that it can no longer hover?
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Old Apr 26, 2011, 03:03 PM
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Cupertino, CA
Joined Nov 2010
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Originally Posted by SubtleT View Post
I'm not trying to pick a fight, but to say this sounds like sheer fantasy would be mild.

I hope it is true, it would be great if it is. However it seems to fly in the face of everything I have seen for myself or even heard about for any other coax.

Perhaps your idea of "tuning" is to add so much weight up front that it can no longer hover?
its an absolute fantasy, first of all even the larger much more powerful big outdoor lama coax struggles in winds of measly 5mph and second i've been playing with all sorts of tricks, mods etc on my coaxes outside the whole winter and if its above 2mph on sub micros which a 5888 is, forget it, sure it can fly with wind on its tail pushing it, even perpendicular to the wind to a degree getting blown all over the place with rocking but any attempt to go against the wind of even 2-4mph with full forward stick and upping a throttle a bit its not going to go anywhere but up like a helium balloon.
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Old Apr 26, 2011, 03:08 PM
Vroooom putta putta putta
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Joined Feb 2011
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Well that's more in line with my experiences.

Disappointing, I'd love to have a magic-coax.
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Old Apr 28, 2011, 07:06 AM
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Zurich
Joined Apr 2006
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You 2 "disbelievers" above obviously don't understand how to properly de-stabilize a small well powered 19 cm rotorspan coaxial heli and still leave it controllable, which involves adjusting the two coning angles, in addition to very good tuning. I do accept that you both have had no experience with such .... (if you read ALL my posts in this thread, you might learn some things of which you were not previously aware).
.

Lee
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