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Old Dec 27, 2010, 04:03 PM
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Anyone know of a source for the landing gear? Broke ours on both of copters. Also, have one that has the main blade grip that the screw appears to be stripped. It will fall out anytime the blade touches something. Anyone experience this?
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Old Dec 27, 2010, 04:17 PM
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more pixs

Bought the 5888 last week from local toy shop.

Here are some pictures of the insides of the 5888.
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Description: Canopy LED soldered to top left edge of board, tail lights supplied by thin enamelled wire (behind frame) by same two pads, hidden by thicker plastic insulated wires. Name: RightSide.jpg
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Description:

Receiver board:
Name: ReceiverFront.jpg
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Description: Battery is 180 mAH, soldered to clearly labelled pads (B+ and B-). Name: ReceiverBack.jpg
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Description: PCB dated 2010-7-16 labelled QS-MR900 V16

Transmitter board:
Name: TransmitterFront.jpg
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Description: Main PCB dated 2010-7-16 labelled T424 V16
RF module dated 2010/5/18 with built-in antenna (short trace at top) Name: TransmitterBack.jpg
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Description:

Some alternatives for lost parts:

Lost the screws for the top blades after first few crashes, replaced with #14 copper wire, they now stay in place after crashes better than the screws.
Name: TopBladeGrips.jpg
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Description: Screws replaced with short lengths of #14 copper wire, bent 90 degrees.

Also replaced lost sleeve bearing inside blades with 2-3 turns of #24 copper wire formed around the larger #14 wire.

Vibration is not noticeably worse than brand new, out-of-the-box.

Can hover hands-off in place for a 2-3 seconds after trimming.

Flies for about 5 minutes on a 20-25 min. charge by AC adapter, LiPo cell is cool to touch at end of charge.

Motors remain cool to touch after first minute and at end of 5 min. flight.

Transmitter charge circuit seems defective, has anyone tried it? Would be nice to have when away from home, if it can be made to work.
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Old Dec 27, 2010, 10:02 PM
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Tagging for later.
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Old Dec 28, 2010, 09:00 AM
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Bought the 5888 for my boy for Christmas, great success, but now he has broken the on/off switch on the bottom of the helo.(The moving part has fallen out). Any suggestions on how to repair would be gratefully received.
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Old Dec 28, 2010, 09:04 AM
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This might sound crazy but if the moving part of the switch "fell" out then you should be able to get it back in.

You may need a magnifying glass to do it but it should work.


Quote:
Originally Posted by bowman11 View Post
Bought the 5888 for my boy for Christmas, great success, but now he has broken the on/off switch on the bottom of the helo.(The moving part has fallen out). Any suggestions on how to repair would be gratefully received.
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Old Dec 28, 2010, 09:21 AM
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I would need a magnifying glass to find the missing piece, long before I tried to reinstall it!
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Old Dec 28, 2010, 12:18 PM
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Thanks for the photos, SC10. Really useful to have some idea of where the components are located and how to get to them.
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Old Dec 28, 2010, 12:20 PM
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Forgot to ask SC10...

Where are you based and what toy store did you get your heli from ?

Steve
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Old Dec 29, 2010, 08:37 AM
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Zurich
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mojo57 View Post
Anyone know of a source for the landing gear? Broke ours on both of copters. Also, have one that has the main blade grip that the screw appears to be stripped. It will fall out anytime the blade touches something. Anyone experience this?
Source: my supplier lives just outside Zürich/CH >
Marcel Hauser <marcelhauser@bluewin.ch>

Stripped hub blade-holder bolt-holes: remove blade (CAREFUL not to lose tiny essential brass bushing in blade!), put tiny amount ot CA gel in stripped hole, let slightly harden, reassemble, don't fully tighten screw. When CA is cured, then tighten for correct blade looseness!, and build up small fillet of CA gel around penetrated bolt end. Will last until hard crash .... just as original alu! Then simply re-do! Safety design feature (else many unfixable parts, incl. PCB-burnout!!).

I like to fly wildly around the room, making fast tightly-banked figure-8's, fast banked circles in reverse. and almost approach 3-D flt > in well over 10 hours of flt times with my several 5888's have I never broken a blade or had anything other than a bump-"crash", and never crash-broken a part. That is because I was careful as I developed my flt skills with these. I only mention this to indicate that it is possible not to crash these!

Happy non-crash Landings!
Lee
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Old Dec 30, 2010, 06:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SC10 View Post
Lost the screws for the top blades after first few crashes, replaced with #14 copper wire, they now stay in place after crashes better than the screws.

Can hover hands-off in place for a 2-3 seconds after trimming.
re: the rest of your post,SC10 > Cool!
Other users, pls note that screws popping out is a very important safety feature, esp. to preserve PCB.
See my above post re: how to use CA gel to repair permanently stripped alu threads.

Also, mine will rermain in hover almost indefinitely once painstakingly trimmed & tuned
(even with mild hot-water heat radiator air circulation [no fans]).


Lee
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Old Dec 30, 2010, 08:09 AM
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I have just found the origin of this heli:

http://www.gt-model.cn/Eng/Product_Show.asp?id=173

This is the G.T. Model factory website.
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Old Dec 30, 2010, 08:10 AM
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To tell you the truth I am still sceptical about its quality...
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Old Dec 30, 2010, 08:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bulesz View Post
To tell you the truth I am still sceptical about its quality...
You should be. Lots of stamped aluminum body parts and LEDs are a big red flag. They are selling bling, not quality.
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Old Dec 30, 2010, 08:55 AM
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It is extremely well engineered. There have been some typical early prdn, QC and assembly problems, which the factory has told me they are working on to make this puppy perfect out-of-the-box. As it is, with some effort, it becomes a SUPER performer. If you want a higher guarantee of instant results (some 5888's I've bought were factory-PERFECT! ..... and I am a hard judge), requiring no expert work on your part at this point in time, you can buy a better-known brand for MANY times the price, and get slightly inferior performance to the 5888 when expertly tuned. With that noted, it is absolutely the BEST-performing (and I think it looks like a scaled-down larger R/C heli) low-cost tiny 4-ch coax on the market. Period.

"You get nothing for nothing", it's been often said .... [caveat emptor]

Lee
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Old Dec 30, 2010, 09:10 AM
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Yes you are right...but I'm still in patience and if you dont mind waiting for the others experiences too!
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Last edited by bulesz; Dec 30, 2010 at 09:24 AM.
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