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Old Dec 17, 2010, 09:29 AM
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Scot (?) Thanks for the Singer oil link. I did in fact use some sewing machine oil on the metal parts ( centre shafts and bearings ). I used some razor oil on the plastic ball joints etc.

Sorry you are still waiting for your 5888 - it'll be worth the wait when you get it !

Lee - I don't understand your instructions in your post about tracking using clear tape on the trailing edge (T.E. ? ) and your other tip on identifying the blades. Maybe it's just me being stupid !

Can you post a more detailed explanation if you have time ? Do you mean that you attach a small piece of clear tape to the outer trailing edge of one of the blade pairs and so that it hangs off the blade or something ?

I have had the canopy off my 5888 the other day and managed to break off one of the wires to the front lights so I decided to use a small connector to attach the wires from the canopy's light to the main part of the heli so I can 1) completely remove the canopy next time rather than having it attached to the main board 2) Turn the canopy lights off if I want.

I have to say that I am really pleased with this helicopter. It is amazingly stable now that I have lengthened the pitch link arm to stop it moving forward. A real joy to fly around the living room.
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Old Dec 17, 2010, 09:48 AM
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Lee - I guess what I'm asking for is a step by step guide to setting up the heli.

e.g.

1. Lubricate all parts.
2. Check upper and lower aluminium blade grip tightness. Squeeze together carefully until there is minimal play when the blade tip is moved vertically.
3. Attach clear tape to trailing edge of one upper blade. ................................................et c
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Old Dec 18, 2010, 08:05 AM
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Do you mean that you attach a small piece of clear tape to the outer trailing edge of one of the blade pairs and so that it hangs off the blade? YES

I have had the canopy off my 5888 the other day and managed to break off one of the wires to the front lights so I decided to use a small connector to attach the wires from the canopy's light to the main part of the heli so I can 1) completely remove the canopy next time rather than having it attached to the main board 2) Turn the canopy lights off if I want. The LEDS can be popped out with a pointy knife and resoldered; the excess tails can be clipped off too ... .
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Old Dec 18, 2010, 08:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gbjbasdw View Post
Lee - I guess what I'm asking for is a step by step guide to setting up the heli.

e.g.

1. Lubricate all parts.
2. Check upper and lower aluminium blade grip tightness. Squeeze together carefully until there is minimal play when the blade tip is moved vertically.
3. Attach clear tape to trailing edge of one upper blade. ................................................et c
Unfortunately I do not have the time for that. From what you have written here it seems you have only scratched the surface of what must me done: it is M;UCH more complicated and involved. However, to get you started, for EACH alu blade-holder side (there are two sides on each hub, one for each blade), the upper and lower alu ends, starting where they leave the plastic piece to which they are attached, can be very carefully bent -- with blade removed!! -- up or down, and twisted for more or less pitch. Their ends can come closer or farther apart at the ends, and one can be bent up higher or lower than the other!

See how many possibilities there are?

Note: when I first set up a 5888, it can take several minutes OR 5 or more hours to properly do so. After that, for readjusting pitches or coning angles, from several minutes to a whole hour for each blade set. AND, the upper and lower rotors must be adjusted w.r.t. each other!

The only way you can really learn to do this is just by carefully doing it ....

But it IS well worth the effort (as well as the learning experience).


Lee
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Old Dec 18, 2010, 08:44 AM
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reminder >

1. There are FOUR bolts on each hub blade-holder to adjust.

2. If the bolts wind up being too loose to get the proper spacing (for combined coning angle & pitch adj.), simply remove the 2 bolts on that side (the inner one can just be backed off the lower plate) and slightly bend the lower plate extension downward. Use your finger to apply upward pressure on the lower plate as you re-assemble, to avoid stripping the hole! If you do .... CA gel!
NOTE: the upper plate mostly defines both the pitch and coning angle.

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Old Dec 18, 2010, 10:30 AM
We can rebuild it!
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Is coming where the tip of the blade is higher than it's centre?
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Old Dec 18, 2010, 02:42 PM
We can rebuild it!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djdavies83 View Post
It's amazing how men are expected to be "mind readers" e.g. "that band I like is playing in town at the end of the month"

The mind reading male should translate this as "I want to go, buy me tickets"

This is one area where equality has not made it's self known, if I were to say "remember that helicopter I liked it the scewfix for 50? I've been given an eBay like to it in the uk for only 30"

I'm sure most people here can see how that should be translated, but I think the message will get lost in static...
As expected.... "I have no idea what you want for Christmas..." kinda told me it was lost in static.

Looks like the 30.99 Inc shipping guy must have sold out, he didn't show in any searches cheapest I've seen there now is about 38.99, replacement S107 will be in santas sack this year, I've missed my S107.
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Old Dec 19, 2010, 02:11 AM
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The item number of the one I got for 30.49 is 320621245481.
Why don't you e_mail electronic_kingdom (http://myworld.ebay.co.uk/electronic_kingdom/) directly at electronic_kingdom@orangemega.com and ask if they still have any left ? Or you could phone them:
UK: +44-1616608992 (FAX: 44-1616607720) (Working hour: Monday to Friday,
5pm to 12pm)

S107's are all over our local shopping centre so you shouldn't have any problems gfetting one. Just remember they are infra-red and only 3 channel though !

Steve
( and no I don't have ANY affilliation with electronic_kingdom before you ask ! )
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Old Dec 19, 2010, 06:46 AM
We can rebuild it!
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Hang on, 0161? They are here in Manchester!


Who knows I may even be able to pick one up in person!

My paentwr bought my Replacement S107 yeaterday, she wasn't too happy about it being 3 more than I said it would, I said it was 22.50 in modelzone and she got it at RED5.
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Old Dec 19, 2010, 07:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djdavies83 View Post
Is coming where the tip of the blade is higher than it's centre?
The blades are pulled upwards all along their length by the aerodynamic lift, greatly corresponding to their pitch, airspeed (mostly propportional to RPM) and airflow from the rotor above or below it (air is a viscous fluid). The inner ends of the blade are fixed and lift the hub with them, while the tips are free -- within the limits of the blade-holders!! -- to rise. However the "centrifugal" (actually centripetal) forces of the blade, esp at the fast moving outer section, which are trying to go straight ahead (thank you for explaining momentum, Sir Issac) but are instead forced to circle around the hub, "pull" on the hub (the hub actually pulls the blade, and the blade resists) .... and the resultant of the lift and centripetal forces is a very flattened CONE!

THAT is the "coning angle", when viewing the rotating rotor disc edgewise.


Note: on very small & light helis it is possible to force the blades into a negative coning angle. I actually did this for a while with both this heli and the 3-ch 9008, but the added stability proved unworkable for the 5888, since their system was not designed for it! View some of the YouTube Chinese videos posted in the 5888 video-thread I started. When you free-frame you can see the proper coning angles, since the Chinese engineer (I am sure!) bent & adjusted the hub plates just as I have (the point of science & physics is that it should work universally: he & I both found this out independently!).



Lee
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Old Dec 20, 2010, 09:56 AM
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Tuning Summary (+ recent application thereof)

I set-up a 5888-R I bought (& stored) this summer. It is now exceptional, with both rotors strobing at the same RPM and the heli handling like a Formula-1 racecar.

BUT, it was at first very problematic, unstable & uncontrollable. One servo kept locking, NO adjustment held. Getting it all sorted out took ca. 10 hrs over 2 days ....

The finally-found root of these problems was very bad voltage-regulation! The motors easily get HOT in the first 30 sec! The servos drove to the top: the one that kept locking I had to de-mount, then VERY carefully bend & reposition the nano-wipers (lots of fun!!).

In the end I used my well-proven set-up, having to continually RAZOR-sharp re-track as I changed things (often req. re-pitching one blade of a set) >

added ca. 1 pitch to BOTH rotors

upper rotor ca. 4 mm tip-play
lower rotor ca. 3 mm tip-play
[upper is larger fo allow Re compensation w/ RPM incr.]

NOTE: in this (& most) good coax's, the lower rotor properly has ca. 15 - 20% more pitch than the upper (see my thread on the subject).


Coning Angle:

The more positive coning angle, the less stable (less self-stabilizing) the rotor.
[heli airflow opposite from fixed-wing!!]


So, to get this "new" over-driven 5888-R under control, I flattened the lower rotor's coning angle to reduce its control authority such that the upper edge of the rotating blades are now almost horizontal. I also slightly flattened the upper rotor to incr. its stabilizing effect.

NOTE: too large upper coning angle > rocking in fast banked turns; too large lower coning angle > spinning-in in fast banked left turns.

Thus have I now gotten this HOT "new" one very quiet (acoustically & motion-wise) and stable in hover AND fast flight, with just enough control authority to make it jump when I wish. I generally drive it carefully, smoothly & precisely like an F-1 car! In "Low" mode it behaves like a "normal" 5888 in "High" ....


SUPER!

Lee
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Old Dec 20, 2010, 10:10 AM
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At last my 5888 was delivered today, I was beginning to think it was lost somewhere in our great postal system.
First impressions are the heli looks good, the transmitter looks cheap but works fine, especially that high low setting
I have had two flights with it so far and was happier with the second flight which lasted 6 mins (I did time it) before it started to lose hight. I let it cool before charging up again. I will say it is well worth 30 and can see me having a lot of fun with this good looking heli
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Old Dec 20, 2010, 11:26 AM
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electronic_kingdom has relisted the 5888 helicopter on ebay again. Search for item number 310281393948. Same price as before 30.49 delivered.
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Old Dec 21, 2010, 06:53 AM
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6 mins, nonstop? whooooooops ....! ;-))

Quote:
Originally Posted by scotsoft View Post
At last my 5888 was delivered today, I was beginning to think it was lost somewhere in our great postal system.
First impressions are the heli looks good, the transmitter looks cheap but works fine, especially that high low setting
I have had two flights with it so far and was happier with the second flight which lasted 6 mins (I did time it) before it started to lose hight. I let it cool before charging up again. I will say it is well worth 30 and can see me having a lot of fun with this good looking heli
You did not mention STOPPING several times to let the motors cool!

If you fly like that, without stopping for cooling, especially during or at the first minute after a full charge, you are extremely unlikely to have many more 6 min flts, and you will soon find the heli spinning in pretty circles on the ground, needing a new motor (one usually dies first).

I have now bought NINE of these, and have also read earlier posts to confirm the above (very early motor burn-out, usually caused by hot motors, indicated by WARM [only!]) aluminum shrouding around motor .... which is NOT touching motor, and only receives slight heat from plastic + radiated heat! > warm alu = very HOT! motor).

Lee
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Old Dec 21, 2010, 08:06 AM
We can rebuild it!
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Dude you sound like a real expert on this craft, I'm sure many people would love to see a dedicated 5888 tuning/care thread.

I really want to get one of these in the new year so.....

About stopping to let the motor cool in the first 1-2mins, so a few gentle short hops or is there a better method?
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