Use a round file or Dremmel. File is safer and hard to over do. The edge where the wire turns at each end of the stack is sharper on one end than the other. This is because of the burr created when the lams are stamped. A poorly maintained die can leave a large burr.

When the lams are stamped, care is taken to store them together in the same direction in which they were stamped. This is done so the lam burrs are not facing each other. They stack better when "nested" to each other.

Good fluidizing usually covers the burr. Other methods use an insulating lam at each end to prevent the wire from touching the lam edges. I've also seen plastic insulator covers used over the end of the stacks. For economic reasons, lam edges are not usually broken or de burred and are used as is.

These little stones for sharpening chain saws work nice, the ones I use a 5/32" dia. and I can get them at Lowes and Home Depot. One will last forever.

I run those against a #415 Dremel dressing stone to put a rounded taper on the end so the last 1/4" or so comes down to a point. That lets me get into all the corners and chase all the sharp edges. You want to run it at a medium speed or so, not real fast, and it will leave a bright edge where it has put a little bevel on all the sharp edges.

I've been using Dremel tools more than 50 years, I have accumulated a lot of bits and pieces of tools and cutter for mine. I like the old classic hand held models, some of their new stuff is suspect...

Jack

Originally Posted by jackerbes

If you deburr the sharp edges and paint it with two coats of the Loctite 410 rubberized CA adhesive it will do a pretty good job. I had good luck with that. I think the deburring is a key part of the process though, get all those sharp edged rounded off.

Jack

Rewind GBx mini stator with 24 awg wire, Loctite 410 works great.