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Old Mar 02, 2011, 10:41 AM
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alstrahm's Avatar
United States, CA, San Jose
Joined Oct 2002
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I printed the manual from here

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=JRP2920

Aileron to rudder is real easy, there is already screen for it under list.

Al
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Old Mar 02, 2011, 07:22 PM
The Lone Blue Plaid Flyer
Bob Cook's Avatar
Seattle
Joined Jan 2003
7,585 Posts
Hi Guys,

I got all my servo extentions today. I'll let you know if I can't solve any program issues. I'm going to try and do it on my own. I'll write a cheat sheet as I do it, so next time it'll be easier. Stay tuned.

Bob in Seattle
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Old Mar 02, 2011, 09:38 PM
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alstrahm's Avatar
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Bob, what do you use for the throttle? I have a 9303 as well! I use the right slide switch on my full house planes.I am not really crazy about using a full on/off switch for the throttle.

Al
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Old Mar 02, 2011, 10:18 PM
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United States, WI, Stoddard
Joined Dec 2009
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Hi all this thread is really good I'm learning a lot,and find my self applying it all to my crimson build.
it's my first scratch built sail plane,and it's coming out nice .Thanks keep up the good work.
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Old Mar 03, 2011, 05:36 PM
The Lone Blue Plaid Flyer
Bob Cook's Avatar
Seattle
Joined Jan 2003
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Hi Al,

Here is what do. I put the spoilers on the L/H slider. Throttle is on the L/H stick. Rudder/elevator or aileron/elevator on the R/H stick If it's aileron/elevator, I mix in the rudder with the aileron. 98 % of my flying is RES. This plane will be the exception. I'm a Poly wing lover. But, just had to try a Gull wing for a change.


Way to go doc993. Stay tuned.

Bob in Seattle
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Old Mar 03, 2011, 07:33 PM
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alstrahm's Avatar
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Gotch Bob, I am an old fullhouse sailplane guy and left handed to boot, so I have to have the flaps/spoilers on the left stick, and since I launch with my left hand, having the motor on the right slider gives me full time access to it. Just wondering if you can get elevator comp to left slider when deploying the spoilers? But you probably don't need it. I on the other hand fly in a lot of contests and I know you do not.Enough of my hijacking let the Raven build continue

Al
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Old Mar 03, 2011, 07:38 PM
The Lone Blue Plaid Flyer
Bob Cook's Avatar
Seattle
Joined Jan 2003
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Hi Al,

I've never done it, but I don't see why not. You just do the mix and then assign it to the left slider. It should work. I like mixes. They make flying so much more fun and easier on the work load.

Time for Pinot Gris and cheader cheese with Foxy.

Bob in Seattle
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Old Mar 03, 2011, 08:20 PM
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alstrahm's Avatar
United States, CA, San Jose
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ah, right, I forgot about "butterfly" mode. I use it on my elevator to spoiler comp on my Ava Enjoy your wine

Al
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Old Mar 04, 2011, 08:09 PM
Making wood fly since 2007
Windependence's Avatar
USA, MN, Rochester
Joined Mar 2008
2,448 Posts
Minor progress, but progress none the less

Hi everyone,

My shop time has been limited as of late but I thought I would post my progress. First, I must confess that all of my available shop time has not been dedicated to the Raven build. I felt it was necessary to get my two primary planes ready for the ever nearer soaring season so, I needed to do some repair work and covering tightening. Now that the Riser and Pulsar are flight ready I have been able to get back to the Raven.

I got my fuselage sides all sanded, drilled and slotted and separated them for the first time. I think they look great. After that I started working on the formers. Now as I thought about my interchangeable nose design I came to the opinion that I needed a little more beef to the F2 and F3 formers, mainly the F2, so I decided to make them from 1/8 plywood instead to spruce stock. Cutting out the square blanks on the table saw was easy, removing the unneeded center area presented a challenge. I quickly realized that hand cutting it was out because it was too tedious. The skill saw was out because the pieces were too small to clamp and cut at the same time. A scroll saw would have worked but I do not have one of those. So what is a guy to do? RotoZip to the rescue. I put a really small cutting blade in my RotoZip tool and had at it. Can you say hot knife through butter? I knew you could. After the wood smoke cleared I had my needed formers.

Next I was on to the 1/4 by 1/8th pieces that you glue to the fuselage sides. Again I went to the wood supply to see what I had only to realize there was no 1/4 by 1/8th spruce available. But there was some very nice 1/4 by 1/4 spruce. So after reading my owners manual to confirm my thought, I pulled out the Delta surface planer and planed down that unneeded 1/8th of an inch and, ta-da, instant correct thickness. Muahahahahaha, gotta love tools.

I should hopefully, get some assembly done this weekend. The glue is ready as are the pins and weights. My goal is to get the F2 through F5 formers installed and all the spruce and balsa glued to the fuselage sides. We will see how that goes. Here are a few pictures for everyone.

Wayne
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Old Mar 04, 2011, 09:13 PM
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alstrahm's Avatar
United States, CA, San Jose
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Dude, I am having power tool envy right nowI thought my man cave had plenty of power tools. Way to go Wayne!

Al

off to see where he can get a planer!
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Old Mar 05, 2011, 07:33 AM
Blueplaidcanard flyer
sdy. ny
Joined May 2007
2,977 Posts
Looking good Wayne-You still need to notch the formers for the 1/8x1/4" stock,on mine I made up a jig block and cut the notches on the table saw.I also used a 12" piece of 1/4" rod through one set of the joiner rod holes to square every thing up.I ended up useing 1/16" ply for the rear fuse bottom and it worked out well with the motor and r/x batteries up front for ballance and you could use the fuse for a club if needed.You'll need to build some sort of jig to hold the rear of the fuse untill its all sheeted as the tail end is a bit wippey untill its all boxed in.Could aynone tell me the controll throws for the bird?Perhaps Mike could jump in on this,I'd like to set them twords the miled side on low rate I'll be adding the washout to the tips as Bob plans too so I'll have a tame bird.I have to wait for warmer weather to dope the fuse and my covering is yet to show up,so I thought I'd work on the servo set ups.All most foregot I put the whole works bird, batteries,servos and all on the scale last night and its at 48.7oz so far
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Old Mar 05, 2011, 08:33 AM
The Lone Blue Plaid Flyer
Bob Cook's Avatar
Seattle
Joined Jan 2003
7,585 Posts
Hi Wayne,

WOW, looking really good. It's nice to have the correct tools for the job. Keep up the good work.

Scottie,

The throws in the instructions are as follows. Rudder 30 MM each way, Stab 12MM each way, Ailerons 15 MM up, 7 MM down.

Darn, I forgot to build in some wash out on the outter sections of the wing. Any suggestions on how I can get some in there now ???

Bob in Seattle
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Old Mar 05, 2011, 08:55 AM
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Aylesbury, Buckinghamshire, Great Britain (UK)
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rabidrue1,

Bob beat me to it - see attached file.

Mike
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Old Mar 05, 2011, 09:13 AM
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Don Stackhouse's Avatar
United States, OH, Bradford
Joined Jun 2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Cook View Post
... Darn, I forgot to build in some wash out on the outter sections of the wing. Any suggestions on how I can get some in there now ???
That's another reason why we decided not to use D-tube sheeting on the Chrysalis series, it leaves beginners a way out of exactly those sorts of problems.

You might be able to use steam and twisting, or twist the wing while going over it repeatedly with your covering iron. In general, the standard tactic is some combination of patience, heat, and steady pressure.
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Old Mar 05, 2011, 09:27 AM
The Lone Blue Plaid Flyer
Bob Cook's Avatar
Seattle
Joined Jan 2003
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Thanks Don. I only have the bottom sheeting on, so maybe I can get it to move.

Bob in Seattle
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