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Old Jul 09, 2010, 05:12 AM
Balsa Builder. With some foam.
ArneHu's Avatar
Eastern Norway Scandinavia
Joined Dec 2009
1,084 Posts
Interesting and good looking models. I will follow this one, building one from scratch will be to much of a challenge for me with my skills.
Great if there where a nice laser cut kit of one of this models.
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Old Jul 13, 2010, 10:12 PM
Making wood fly since 2007
Windependence's Avatar
USA, MN, Rochester
Joined Mar 2008
2,404 Posts
Hi Everyone,

I asked Bob to contact the laser cutter, Tony, to see if he might be willing to offer a discount on the rib prices if we placed all the orders at the same time. Good news for us, he said yes. So for those of you who are planning on getting the ribs laser cut lets coordinate and place all the orders together. Here is the pricing he quoted Bob:

2 sets $135 + shipping ($17)
3 sets $186 + shipping
4 sets $216 + shipping

We can work out the details later, I would say lets look at September to place the orders so we can all have them delivered easily by October 1.

Wayne
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Old Jul 14, 2010, 09:55 AM
If it floats....sail it!
FoamCrusher's Avatar
Elk Grove, CA
Joined Sep 2002
4,089 Posts
I'm in.

Let me know how and when to send the funds.

FC
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Old Jul 14, 2010, 10:54 PM
Making wood fly since 2007
Windependence's Avatar
USA, MN, Rochester
Joined Mar 2008
2,404 Posts
Here is a little more information about the Raven 3M:

Root cord - 11 inches
Tip cord - 6 inches
Wing planform - constant LE taper
Wing area - 975 sq. inches
Rough plane weight - 61 oz (calculated)
Wing span - 118"
Fuselage length, nose to tip of rudder, - 56.5 inches
Wing loading - 9 oz per sq. foot
Airfoil = unknown, but it could be built with any airfoil you want. My measurements put the root rib just a hair under 11" long with a max thickness of 1 1/16" and a slight under camber. Maybe Mike can chip in here with the airfoil.

Wayne
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Old Jul 19, 2010, 05:00 AM
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Mike Smart's Avatar
Aylesbury, Buckinghamshire, Great Britain (UK)
Joined Jan 2000
3,030 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Windependence View Post
Here is a little more information about the Raven 3M:

Root cord - 11 inches
Tip cord - 6 inches
Wing planform - constant LE taper
Wing area - 975 sq. inches
Rough plane weight - 61 oz (calculated)
Wing span - 118"
Fuselage length, nose to tip of rudder, - 56.5 inches
Wing loading - 9 oz per sq. foot
Airfoil = unknown, but it could be built with any airfoil you want. My measurements put the root rib just a hair under 11" long with a max thickness of 1 1/16" and a slight under camber. Maybe Mike can chip in here with the airfoil.

Wayne
Sorry guys it was a long time ago, but I think the airfoil was E193.

Mike
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Old Jul 19, 2010, 09:47 AM
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KickAce's Avatar
Watertown, WI 53098
Joined Aug 2007
518 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Windependence View Post
Hi Everyone,

I asked Bob to contact the laser cutter, Tony, to see if he might be willing to offer a discount on the rib prices if we placed all the orders at the same time. Good news for us, he said yes. So for those of you who are planning on getting the ribs laser cut lets coordinate and place all the orders together. Here is the pricing he quoted Bob:

2 sets $135 + shipping ($17)
3 sets $186 + shipping
4 sets $216 + shipping

We can work out the details later, I would say lets look at September to place the orders so we can all have them delivered easily by October 1.

Wayne
Put me in for a set of the laser-cut Raven 3-meter - just ordered the plans...
Thanks...
KA
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Old Jul 19, 2010, 11:38 AM
Making wood fly since 2007
Windependence's Avatar
USA, MN, Rochester
Joined Mar 2008
2,404 Posts
Add another to the list

Welcome KickAce,

The more the merrier. I have you down for the ribs.

Wayne
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Old Jul 21, 2010, 10:47 PM
Making wood fly since 2007
Windependence's Avatar
USA, MN, Rochester
Joined Mar 2008
2,404 Posts
more parts

Well it's been two days since posted anything here and I didn't want all of you to think I was just sitting on my duff. Seriously though I have received a number of requests asking if there is a kit for this plane. Well there is not a kit but I am going to try to source out many of the parts for it. I have located a quality looking bell crank assembly that is made from G10 and has an aluminium hub. Additionally I have located someone who may be willing to cut and bend the wing joiner rods for us. It is my goal to create a short list of vendors to be able to supply many of the mechanical parts for the build.

I have ordered one of the bell cranks and will let you all know what I think of it.

Wayne
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Old Jul 22, 2010, 07:50 AM
Blueplaidcanard flyer
sdy. ny
Joined May 2007
2,974 Posts
Thats a good looking bellcrank there Wayne.If we aren't talking joiners bigger than 5/16" I can set up to make them here at the new shop I'm working at.scottie
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Old Jul 22, 2010, 10:58 AM
AKA - The "Flywheel"
StevenatorLTFO's Avatar
SOAR Chicago!!!
Joined Jan 2005
1,876 Posts
Is that the bellcrank from Don Richmond at Hi Launch? If so, I bought a couple, and they are very nice!

Steve


Well it's been two days since posted anything here and I didn't want all of you to think I was just sitting on my duff. Seriously though I have received a number of requests asking if there is a kit for this plane. Well there is not a kit but I am going to try to source out many of the parts for it. I have located a quality looking bell crank assembly that is made from G10 and has an aluminium hub. Additionally I have located someone who may be willing to cut and bend the wing joiner rods for us. It is my goal to create a short list of vendors to be able to supply many of the mechanical parts for the build.

I have ordered one of the bell cranks and will let you all know what I think of it.

Wayne
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Old Jul 22, 2010, 11:08 AM
Making wood fly since 2007
Windependence's Avatar
USA, MN, Rochester
Joined Mar 2008
2,404 Posts
Hi Steve,

Yes it is from Don over at hilaunch. He also has some very nice looking control horns I am going to look at.

Wayne
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Old Jul 22, 2010, 12:12 PM
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KickAce's Avatar
Watertown, WI 53098
Joined Aug 2007
518 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Windependence View Post
Well it's been two days since posted anything here and I didn't want all of you to think I was just sitting on my duff. Seriously though I have received a number of requests asking if there is a kit for this plane. Well there is not a kit but I am going to try to source out many of the parts for it. I have located a quality looking bell crank assembly that is made from G10 and has an aluminium hub. Additionally I have located someone who may be willing to cut and bend the wing joiner rods for us. It is my goal to create a short list of vendors to be able to supply many of the mechanical parts for the build.

I have ordered one of the bell cranks and will let you all know what I think of it.

Wayne
You ROCK Wayne...!
Take your time and if your looking at a group purchase on the wing rods, count me in as well... Looking forward for the part/vendor list very much...!!!
KA
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Old Jul 22, 2010, 09:22 PM
Held by Grace
BDOG1's Avatar
Upstate New York
Joined Apr 2006
271 Posts
3M Raven

Please count me in for this fall's build. BEAUTIFUL SHIP !
I have my plan from Mike -Great service and Fast delivery !
I am interested in the lazar cut ribs and needed parts also.

Mike :I have not seen the "stack" method used before to cut ribs-is there a way to calculate how to use it to cut other wing designs ?
Thanks -Mike
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Old Jul 23, 2010, 05:11 AM
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Mike Smart's Avatar
Aylesbury, Buckinghamshire, Great Britain (UK)
Joined Jan 2000
3,030 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by BDOG1 View Post
Please count me in for this fall's build. BEAUTIFUL SHIP !
I have my plan from Mike -Great service and Fast delivery !
I am interested in the lazar cut ribs and needed parts also.

Mike :I have not seen the "stack" method used before to cut ribs-is there a way to calculate how to use it to cut other wing designs ?
Thanks -Mike
I'm not quite sure I understand the question regarding calculating, but you can use the 'stack' or 'sandwich' method to cut ribs for more or less any wing that isn't elliptical or curved on plan. The more ribs in the stack the better as there is less taper on the edge of the ribs.
Just count out how many ribs in each wing, cut that number of rectangular 'blanks', make ply or aluminium root and tip ribs and drill two holes in each for threaded wire rods to hold the stack together. (make them the same distance apart on the root and tip rib) Drill similar spaced holes in the blanks. I used to use M2 threaded rods to hold the stack together (some people used bicycle spokes), cut to roughly the length required with the cut end bent over at 90 degrees for about 10mm. Assemble the stack starting with the root rib against the 90 degree bent ends, followed by all the blanks and the tip rib. Secure with a washer and nut on the threaded end of the rod and tighten. Take a razor saw and cut the end of the blanks off at the LE & TE of the stack. Now take a razor plane and plane off all the excess blank material until you get to within say 0.5mm of the root and tip ply/ali patterns and then finish off with a sanding block with coarse and fine sandpaper, making sure the stack runs straight from root to tip on all surfaces with no 'humps' in the middle. Once this is done you can take a razor saw to cut the verticals of the spar slots, followed by a coarse file to clean them out perfectly. Un-bolt the stack and you have a perfect set of ribs!
I have to admit its not the easiest way of making ribs, but that was really the only option 30 years ago and you did get a nice accurate set.

Future Raven plans will be drawn on CAD and have every rib shown, so that will be an easier way for those not wishing to have them laser cut.

Mike
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Last edited by Mike Smart; Jul 23, 2010 at 05:24 AM.
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Old Jul 23, 2010, 10:35 AM
If it floats....sail it!
FoamCrusher's Avatar
Elk Grove, CA
Joined Sep 2002
4,089 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Smart View Post
....Now take a razor plane and plane off all the excess blank material until you get to within say 0.5mm of the root and tip ply/ali patterns and then finish off with a sanding block with coarse and fine sandpaper, making sure the stack runs straight from root to tip on all surfaces with no 'humps' in the middle. .....Mike
A band saw is actually the quickest way to get close before final sanding, but if you don't have one you can use a belt sander with an 80 grit (or 120 if you would like to go slower and more carefully) to get it close and then a Perma-Grit http://www.permagrit.com/index.php?c...1j0plk4eo46u95 sanding bar to finish. As long as you keep the ends of the bar on the end plates as you do your final sanding (you can put a little blue tape on the ends of the bar to keep from wearing down your templates) the ribs come out exactly the same without a lot of hand sanding.

These Perma-Grit sanding tools - particularly the long sanding bars - are also great for sanding leading edges. Like any good tool they are not cheap, but they last and last, and make work easier, resulting a nicer looking finished product.

FC
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