I first listed this in Modeling Science but have only received one responce so am putting here in hopes of better.

I would like your ideas, opinions and suggestions of transfering images from plans to balsa wood with out cutting up the plans.

One idea is to Xerox a copy of the parts and cut them out and glue them (3M77) to the wood. I hate the itea of trying to peel the paper off the wood and haveing the glue still there.

I have see in the past what I would call layout paper. On the surface it looks and feel like plain white paper, on the back it had a protective cover that peeled off and exposed a mild adhesive. I don't know where to to find this or if it comes in letter or legal size sheets. This stuff would be very nice to run through a copier then stick to the wood, peels off real nice.

If anyone know where to find this layout paper or has a better idea please let me know.

Thanks,
John WBR

Hmm... I've always used tracing paper, then cut out the tracing paper, then marked the wood, then cut that.

It's labor intensive though, and I'm rather ignorant on any better ways of doing it.

Instead of 3M77, get a glue stick that is designed to for items that need to be removed from the surface you're glueing to. The one I have is designed for hanging posters on a wall and doesn't leave residue when you peel it off. Works great for posterboard templates on BlueCor when cutting out with my hot wire.

-Mark

There was at least one long thread that dealt extensively with this subject recently. Couldna've been more than a month ago. What I remember were: 1) Use spray glue meant for temp. use in stencilling or some sort of crafts endevor -purchase at Michael's crafts stores.
2) Using a laser printed copy (not ink jet) ink side next to wood & soak/apply acetone and the ink will transfer to the wood. Sounds messy and smelly to me. Get laser jet copies at Kinko's.
3) Use carbon paper and trace. This is the tried and trued method that's been round forever.
4) I've tried this and it works pretty good: Lay laser jet copy ink side down next to wood and apply heat using an iron. The ink will transfer. I found pressure was the key with temperature coming in a close second.
Hope this helps
-Mike

Originally posted by War Bird Radio


One idea is to Xerox a copy of the parts and cut them out and glue them (3M77) to the wood. I hate the itea of trying to peel the paper off the wood and haveing the glue still there.

I use this method except I copy the parts using my scanner. I use Duro all-purpose spray adhesive which is similar to the 3M77 adhesive. After peeling off the paper I use lacquer thinner to easily remove the glue residue. Paint thinner probably would work as well.
Since the scanning and printing doesn't seem to change the part size this is a very precise way to make the parts.

A laser copy of the pattern face down on the wood. Heat from an iron will transfer the image to the wood. Laser printers use heat to fuse the toner to the paper.

Okay, this sounds really odd, but I use the glue stick method (there's a new one out that's labeled post-it, works GREAT and no residue) I roughly cut out around the paper part you want (on a copy, not the original)....then I put a little glue stick on the back of it and stick it to a piece of balsa. Next I head down to my disk sander and sand away all the excess....usually makes for near perfect parts so far. But witht eh glue stick, the paper sands away as well, so just sand it how you want, peel off the paper, and voila! If I'm cutting out 2 or more of the same part, I'll use tiny pieces of double sided tape (very tiny, 1/4" wide) to hold a stack of balsa together and have a paper template on th every top. This method still hasn't let me down....

Hey guys,

These are great ideas. I like the iron transfer method if it will work for me. The removable glue stick is good too. I'll try various methods suggested here and see what works best.

Thanks again,
John WBR

In addition to a few of these methods, I've also used full sheet label stock for a copier or printer from Office Depot, Staples, etc.

I've found that Elmers School Glue Stick leaves little residue.

This is not exactly the process you were asking about, but it is one I have used long before we had access to copiers and printers in our homes.

I just lay the item on the plan that I want to transfer over the wood. Using straight pin I poke holes thru the wood of the outline. Then just play connect the dots with the hobby knife. On curves the holes are spaced closely and on straight lines I just put one on each end and use a straight edge. Since I have been doing it this way for so long it seems like I can outline a part quicker this way than going thru the copying process.

Of course it's best to make one copy of the plan. One to build on and the other to outline parts with.

Dale

I trace mine by putting plain printer paper over the plan and tracing it through. If its a plane I may want to make more than one of I then cut the paper out and trace it to thin poster board so I have some good stiff templates that I can fold and put in a folder file and file in my box of plans.

heres how i did it...


Take an old pen, with no ink if you can find one and lay the plan over the wood, than, useing medum pressure, press down int he pen and trace the out line onto the wood, after youhave traced the out line, take the paper off the wood and you will dee a dented out line, fill in this outline with a good pen and cut it out, easy and works suprbe for me.



Thomas

Some more very good ideas!

genebond;

I thought about the full sheet size lables but thought they would stick too much. Still a good idea for small parts and we are talking parkflyers here.

calmair;

I have used this method with the pins on a limited basis. Works very well with straight lines.

Thanks guys. I think this should keep me busy and out of trouble!

John WBR

For the 3m-77 spraymount spray, spray it on the paper, let the paper "dry" then apply to the wood to cut. Leaves no or virtually no glue on the wood. This glue dries to a sticky note consistency. Use the spray sparingly.

This is still more work than the ironing method although with good, thin wood I've had problems with the head causing warps and the images not transferring quite right.