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Old Feb 19, 2012, 07:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sam2000pres View Post
... but nothing a rubber band can't handle!
TK
yep...that's what I used today.
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Old Feb 20, 2012, 12:11 AM
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Rancho Santa Margarita, California
Joined Oct 2005
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Reef-rc,
I checked the magnets on my Rhapsody, and the magnets in the fuselage sit flush to the surrounding wood surface. I wonder if your problems are caused by the fact that the magnets on your plane sit below the surface and possibly don't make a good contact with the canopy portion. I don't know off hand how to solve that problem,.... at least without possible surgery to the plane. I'm sure someone on this thread can come up with a clever solution

sam
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Old Feb 20, 2012, 11:47 AM
ids911
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if the magnets are below the surface and not flush, the gap can be made up by using a small washer, make sure its a "iron" based one, not brass
Ian
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Old Feb 22, 2012, 09:23 AM
I AM Smiling
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Joined Dec 2007
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3D Hobby shop sells a nice spring-loaded pin latch for installation in the turtle deck to pin the canopy closed at the rear.

http://www.3dhobbyshop.com/Canopy-La...s_p_15453.html
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Old Mar 03, 2012, 03:40 PM
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I thought I'd chime in with my review of this plane.

The Build:

I got this plane about a month ago, and I have to say the build was just delightful. They use a lot of T-nuts in this plane, so there's not a lot of drilling and bolting things together, it all screws in easily with good alignment.

I had an issue with wing struts that connect the top and bottom wings together. The holes (t-nuts embedded in the wings) wouldn't take the screws. I sent an email off to E-Flight to see what the deal was, and while I was poking around their site, I noticed a "product alert" that explains that some models made before 2010 has glue in the holes for the t-nuts. The fix was to either contact them (did that), or buy a #4 tap and clean out the holes. I never heard back from E-Flight (disappointing), but I got a tap and cleaned out the holes, and everything went together like a glove.

This is a beautiful plane. The details are nice, especialy with a pilot and a fake radial engine in the cowl. The covering is great and took very little effort to de-wrinkle. If you get up real close you can notice a little "orange peel" effect in the paint on the cowl, but it's hardly noticable.

Specs:

I had some stuff laying around so I used what was on-hand.

(First itteration, alterations are down below the Maiden section)
AXI 4120/14
Generic 60A ESC
Castle 25A BEC
AR8000 Rx w/ TM100 telemetry (Volts, Altitude, Temp sensors)
(4x) PowerHD 1711MG Servos
APC 13x6.5 Prop
4S 4000mAh Turnigy Nano-Tech 35C/70C Lipo

Yes the AXI 4120 is overkill, and the Castle BEC is way overkill, but it was onhand. It's a bit heavy (82oz or so) because of the bigger battery, motor and extra electronics inside, but it handles it well. I undersized the prop (15x10 would give me max speed a thrust on 4S), because I didn't want to overpower the plane (and I had a 13x6.5 on hand).

This plane breaks down well for travel. Both wings are come off without having to remove the wing supports or remove the wing root from the plane. It even comes with seperate wing supports that hold the top and bottom wing straight for travel. Sorry poor description, you'd just have to see it. Biplanes are notorious for being hard to transport to the flying site, so this is a very nice feature.

Maiden:

I went out a few weeks back with 5-10mph winds gusting to 15mph. Taxi was great, and takeoff was smooth despite the winds. Two laps of trimming, and she flies like an arrow. With the plane almost a pound overweight, it likes to go fast, but handled the wind very well. Everything was super smooth on low rates. I did a few rolls, which had a little corkscrew in them, which is typical of old biplanes. Loops from horizontal are easy with enough throttle and plenty of sky. Stall turns were surprising nice, and inverted flight didn't require a lot of elevator with the CG in the middle of the recommended spot. Slow flight wasn't fantastic, but that's my fault for having 10oz of extra weight in the plane. It does stall nicely. There seems to be a little washout built into the wings, so it only tends to tip stall in hard banked turns at low speed. There's also a little wiggle room to add more washout depending on how you put the wing supports on.

High rates give an impressive roll rate, and more elevator than you really need. The control surfaces are nice and big, so this plane doesn't need a ton of control surface movement.

So about 7 or 8 minutes in, my canopy pops off at about 100ft. I'm sure it was secured before it went up. the canopy was never seen or heard from again. I did not have the "fake" engine glued into the cowl, and had a pilot figure glued to the canopy. This combined with the oversized engine and a freak gust of wind *may* have been the issue, but I have noticed that my magnets that hold the canopy on are about a penny's width sunken into the wood, which sounds like the same issue as Reef_rc above.

Support:

So I called Horizon Hobby since E-Flight didn't bother to get back with me on the t-nut issue. I talked to a guy, and it turns out they don't sell the canopy by itself. I'm not paying $150 for a new fuse when I only paid $200 for the plane in the first place. Horizon understood this and made some calls to see if they could find a return or broken plane with send me the canopy off of. This took about a week, and 3 different calls (first support guy was out sick, that's understandable). Just before the third call, I found this forum talking about the canopy and the magnets sunken in a bit. So I explained the situation to the third support guy, and mentioned this forum and he went and got their "test plane" (On a side note ... It turns out the support people from Horizon are encouraged to fly their test planes so they're familiar with them and have some idea what they fly like. How freakin' cool is that? I'm in the wrong business.) So he checks out the test plane, and says the magnets are pretty much flush with the surrounding wood. After a few minutes of discussion we decide that I might as well just get a fuse, so they don't have to hunt down a canopy, there's a possibility that my magnets are goofy, and so I can get in the air sooner. All in all, I'm happy with Horizon's support. I honestly didn't expect them to send me a free fuse over something that could have possibly been my fault, I just wanted a new canopy for less than $150. Kudos to Horizon.

Alterations:

I've decided that the plane is a bit heavy, and it doesn't need 4000mAh of battery. That would have been a 15+ minute flight had the canopy not flown off. I've since knocked it back to:

5S 3000mAh Zippy Flightmax 20C
APC 13x6.5 Prop
Fake radial engine in cowl
No pilot

This took about 5 oz. off my weight, and will give me a little more top speed from the motor. This plane is not as draggy as you would think being a biplane, so I really don't need any more speed. It probably does 45-50mph in level flight. I wish I had a 25C or greater 3000mAh battery, as this one struggles to give me the 55A at WOT I'm looking for (max Amp rating for an AXI 4120). I just got a watt meter a few days ago, so I had to test it out. I'm getting about 700-750 watts at about 45-50A. I get a nice burst of power from this battery, but then the voltage sags significantly after a few seconds. I fly at half throttle anyway, so no big deal. For the record, this plane would still be a screamer with 500W-600W. I may actually get an E-Flight 32 motor just to shed a few more ounces, since I really don't need the extra power. I may also get a 60A ESC with integrated BEC to eliminate some more weight.

I haven't gotten it into the air yet with this configuration. There's been some crazy weather here in Indiana. But when I do, I'll post another flight review. I may get one of the spring-loaded latches for the canopy if I still have issues. I think the fake engine will limit the intake air and keep the fuse pressure down.

James
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Old Mar 05, 2012, 05:25 PM
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Second flight review

We had some nice weather, so I went out and gave this plane another go around. It was a bit cold (45 degrees or so) and about a 7mph wind from the west, which was a little gusty.

Wow this plane is a joy to fly. I lightened up the plane to barely over the recommended weight as outlined in my post above, and it flies fast or slow with no issues. Stalls are gentle and predictable, and with all the elevator area, I can almost harrier in for a landing. This plane tracks very well in loops, and stall turns are fantastic.

I did figure out my canopy issues. My new canopy holds very well at home, or right after I take it out of my car. Just to be safe I put a Velcro strap around the whole fuse to secure the canopy if a disaster were to strike. It's a good thing I did that. After being in the cold air for a few minutes, it seems the plane warps or something, just enough for the magnets to misalign. Sure enough, when I landed only one magnet was holding on, and not very well at that. I tried playing with it a bit, but the magnets just won't lock together and stay when the plane is cold. I'm not sure if this is a design flaw, defective plane, or just something the designers didn't account for. I'm sure the bulk of the owners of this plane don't fly in 45 degree weather.

I'll most likely put a spring latch on the canopy so secure it in place. At the end of the day, I'm happy with this plane.
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Old Mar 05, 2012, 05:55 PM
Rust: The poor man's Loctite.
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State College PA
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Haven't flown mine yet. Had some says above 40 but too windy. You're making me doubt my Power 25 setup-lol.
Have you found the recommended control throws enough? They seem a little small compared to my other planes.
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Old Mar 05, 2012, 06:58 PM
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Congrats Lunarnexus(james). As for the canopy, as for me, I choose to go the lazy route and just used large rubber bands on front and back just to be safe. Also interesting to note I also used identical methods on GP Super Stearman (which is a totally different beast and not as nice)

I have to say, like others have on here, this bi-plane is a joy to fly for just a large and heavy bird.

TomM - I wouldn't be too concern with the recommeded throws. I fine them good for my taste. However I find I have found I have to use more expo than on most of my plane (25% - 45%) to ensure she's not twitchy.
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Old Mar 05, 2012, 08:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomM View Post
Haven't flown mine yet. Had some says above 40 but too windy. You're making me doubt my Power 25 setup-lol.
Have you found the recommended control throws enough? They seem a little small compared to my other planes.
The P-25 on a 4S LiPo is plenty of power. The recommended throws are also quite effective.
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Old Mar 07, 2012, 09:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by martimer View Post
The P-25 on a 4S LiPo is plenty of power. The recommended throws are also quite effective.
+1 on this. Like Reef I have my expos in the 35-40% range to helps smooth it out. Really doesn't take much control movement to change direction at speed.
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Old Mar 07, 2012, 11:14 AM
ids911
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Has anyone had any trouble with the cowl? I had a nose in landing and the cowl tabs broke off. Thinking of ways to repair rather than buying a new cowl.
Any ideas?
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Old Mar 07, 2012, 09:40 PM
Rust: The poor man's Loctite.
TomM's Avatar
State College PA
Joined Jul 2002
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ids911 View Post
Has anyone had any trouble with the cowl? I had a nose in landing and the cowl tabs broke off. Thinking of ways to repair rather than buying a new cowl.
Any ideas?
Seems it would be an easy fix epoxying some 1/8" plywood tabs in there. Post a pic.
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Old Mar 11, 2012, 05:30 PM
ids911
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Cowl fix

Ok took the tab idea but used 3/16th balsa. I cut out a couple of tabs and screwed them to the front of the fuse using the existing screws. Then using servo mounting screws attached the cowl from the outside.
I used balsa so that it would snap first before any of the nice parts in the event of future front end impacts. All holes were strengthed by using thin CA before applying screws.
Looks good as new and the external screws should prove easier to access the inside of the cowl.
Attached pictures should explain the fix better. One thing of note, is the different sizes of the tabs and the mounting hole is 1/8inch.
Ian
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Last edited by ids911; May 05, 2012 at 03:51 PM.
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Old Mar 11, 2012, 06:55 PM
Rust: The poor man's Loctite.
TomM's Avatar
State College PA
Joined Jul 2002
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Nice fix though I'm worried it might crack a little too easy along the grain, like just from rough handling. Maybe another piece glued cross grain.
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Old Mar 11, 2012, 07:49 PM
ids911
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Tom, thanks for the input, my idea was that the grain break would save the cowl & fuse from having to absorb much of an impact. Agree rough handing could be troublesome.
Ian
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