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Old Mar 21, 2011, 08:21 PM
Heli's rule!
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Midvale, Utah, USA
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Originally Posted by Burma View Post
I am waiting on the DX6i DMSX and the 120 SR BNF to get here and anticipation is high.(I'm stoked!) what i need to know is other then trim, what programming needs to be done to get things right, if any? I think I have enough experience to fly with the swash plate on the advanced balls and will change them out before first flight also zip tie the motor to the frame and look real hard at the skid peg that goes through the frame that is supposed to be harmful to the servo gears in a hard landing. But does the Trans need programming?
No, all the default settings will work, except I think You need to change the "gyro" to 0 and 100% if you want to use the receivers built in dual rates.... I never use the dual rates on my 120sr, but I do on my MSR....
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Old Mar 21, 2011, 08:25 PM
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Chanel 5 controls the internal dual rates and i learned that by defualt if you dont regulate chan 5 its set to low.. so it must be set to as dacaur sais 0 and 100% (for example) or it will be on low rates (as i discovered by the hard way)
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Old Mar 22, 2011, 06:19 AM
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Originally Posted by JLT_GTI View Post
I have to take-off my 120 "fast" , applying power fast because if i try a soft slow take off it wants to tip over front and to the left.. its that normal?
Try wider, lower landing skids. Two example photos are below.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JLT_GTI View Post
I have a couple of minor "soft crashes" , no damage at all.. but one of them (in tall soft grass) was while i was doing forward flight.. the helicopter began loosing altitude.. i gave it more power and it just went faster into the grass..
Always, try to chop the throttle before hitting the ground or any object for that matter to reduce potential damage.

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Originally Posted by JLT_GTI View Post
Also while trying some hovers.. it still has this TBE , it sometimes remains hovering but doing those circling movement .. tought using controls to counter it.. it can be reduced to practically zero..
Try tightening the blades slightly. The blades shouldn't fall/move when the 120SR is picked up. If you tap them, they should move though. This could reduce the TBE.
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Old Mar 22, 2011, 07:00 AM
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Originally Posted by JHawk19 View Post
Try wider, lower landing skids. Two example photos are below.
I did a low budget landing gear as seen in previous page .. even so it really has an almost violent tendency to tip over frontly when trying to do a soft take off.. like if it was at full forward stick.. but its not.. and once it gets airbone all that dissapears


Quote:
Try tightening the blades slightly. The blades shouldn't fall/move when the 120SR is picked up. If you tap them, they should move though. This could reduce the TBE.
Well... we discussed this before.. i saw a video wich recomended tightening them a bit to avoid TBE, i did it at first and still had it..then some guys here said they had floppy blades and they didnt had BTE, i loosened them a bit and same results..

And i cant see any damage in the head or blades
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Old Mar 22, 2011, 12:49 PM
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Well well ...
In a quite nice strike of luck.. today while i was at the LHS looking for fiberglass (wich nobody has in like 300km away) look what i found :



Yeap.. the very same fuselage i was thinking in buying some time to adapt to the Blade 120SR.. i will not adapt it now.. first i want to get the hand on this bird.. but so far things look promising:



Lenght is really similar.. i think that to adapt this i will have to use the method of loosing the tail boom and embeb directly the tail motor in the fuselaje right?
This fuse only looks like a couple cm longer anyway.. its almost a perfect fit..

For those who were asking how much this fuse weights:



Looks fine right?

Also weighted the 120SR with the low budget training gear without battery:



More usefull if i knew how the 120SR weights empty without batt.. i weighted the 120 without both gears (training and standard) and it came at 87g .. that means that both gears are 30g wich is more than the Huey fuselage weights

Also the Huey fuseleage comes with a couple leds with cables included... dont know if they blink by themselves or controled by the Lama A300 board.. but could be usefull for later
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Old Mar 22, 2011, 01:17 PM
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Good luck. It'll take some work, but I'm sure you can get it to fit. You'll need some modified landing gear too.
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Old Mar 22, 2011, 04:14 PM
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You better hire Scotty to get WARP power to lift that heavy canopy.
Ron
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Old Mar 22, 2011, 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by A Rdnek View Post
You better hire Scotty to get WARP power to lift that heavy canopy.
Ron

Have you even readed my post?
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Old Mar 22, 2011, 04:57 PM
Bruno, GOOD DOG
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Originally Posted by JLT_GTI View Post
Have you even readed my post?
Well no, I cannot say that I have "read all" of your posts. But I can see that, that canopy weighs 25% of the total weight of the helicopter. That is TOO much. That will require a LOT of head speed to pick it up and even more to do much flying. That equals a LOT of heat. Your main and tail motors are not going to do that for any length of time. Unless you have found the magic bullet that allows you to make great amounts of power without generating excess heat.
Before you go much further with this project, try this. Find the difference between the weight of the stock canopy and your new one. Add that much weight to the sides of your stock canopy and give it a test flight.
Good Luck, I wish you the best of success.
Ron
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Old Mar 22, 2011, 05:22 PM
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I tried one of those same ESky fuselages on my Quark, which is close to the same size as the 120SR, but weighs more and has a brushless motor. It definitley effected performance and handling. Aside from the weight, it alters the CoG and air flow over the body.
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Old Mar 22, 2011, 05:59 PM
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Well.. the fuse weights 23g , and now the heli is flying with a 30g (minus the weight of the standard plastic gear) training gear and it does ok and actually it takes about the same throttle % to hover.. (arround 40-50%)
Obviously the fuselage will have definitilt an effect (and not for the better) on the flying performance .. but this bird is allready have been moded with other similar fuselages and appears to fly fine:









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Old Mar 22, 2011, 06:10 PM
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Hungary EU
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Strange batteries

Hey Guys,

Is that "normal", that the stock batteries just picket from the fridge (not frozen just about cooled down to 5-10 Celsius) and try flying and usual they can keep about 1 min flying...or less...

BUT after just plug to the charger and after fully charged and keep rest for few min, they give me normal +5mins flying!

I have three stock batteries, all do the same...
I have two Tenergy 15C 550mAh batts, they are normal, took out from the fridge and the give me 7mins flying...without issues....

???

Thanks,
B.
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Old Mar 22, 2011, 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by bulesz View Post
Hey Guys,

Is that "normal", that the stock batteries just picket from the fridge (not frozen just about cooled down to 5-10 Celsius) and try flying and usual they can keep about 1 min flying...or less...

Lipo batteries really hate cold.. in cold weather they perform a lot less than usuall .. many people even make "blankies" and pockets to isolate the small lipos in microplanes when flying in cold weather
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Old Mar 22, 2011, 07:26 PM
Heli's rule!
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Midvale, Utah, USA
Joined Mar 2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bulesz View Post
Hey Guys,

Is that "normal", that the stock batteries just picket from the fridge (not frozen just about cooled down to 5-10 Celsius) and try flying and usual they can keep about 1 min flying...or less...

BUT after just plug to the charger and after fully charged and keep rest for few min, they give me normal +5mins flying!

I have three stock batteries, all do the same...
I have two Tenergy 15C 550mAh batts, they are normal, took out from the fridge and the give me 7mins flying...without issues....

???

Thanks,
B.
Why are you keeping them in the fridge? Lipos shouldnt NOT be kept in the fridge.
Like JLT_GTI said, lipos dont do well in cold temps.
The cold increases internal resistance, and basicaly lowers the C rating of the battery. So a 500mah 12C battery becomes a 500mah 5 or 6C battery, which is unable to supply enough power to fly the heli for long, the voltage drops and LVC kicks in.... The tenergys have a higher C rating, so even with the higher internal resistance from being cold they can still supply enough power, but its still not good for them....
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Old Mar 23, 2011, 06:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JLT_GTI View Post
Lipo batteries really hate cold.. in cold weather they perform a lot less than usuall .. many people even make "blankies" and pockets to isolate the small lipos in microplanes when flying in cold weather
Quote:
Originally Posted by dacaur View Post
Why are you keeping them in the fridge? Lipos shouldnt NOT be kept in the fridge.
Like JLT_GTI said, lipos dont do well in cold temps.
The cold increases internal resistance, and basicaly lowers the C rating of the battery. So a 500mah 12C battery becomes a 500mah 5 or 6C battery, which is unable to supply enough power to fly the heli for long, the voltage drops and LVC kicks in.... The tenergys have a higher C rating, so even with the higher internal resistance from being cold they can still supply enough power, but its still not good for them....
because need to storage them in dry and cool place, like here at #5th in the list:
http://www.rctoys.com/pr/2007/09/25/...o-care-lipoly/
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