Woo-Hoo...my SmartieParts board arrived today. Thank you. It did take me a couple of hours to install the board, then open the Tx back up to connect the main back panel connector (Tx won't turn on without the connector installed ), install the er9x firmware (v397), and get the basic setups done. Of course I haven't flown it yet, but after a few minutes of playing I've been able to figure out most of the navigation. Very nice guys. Y'all with the brain to do this have done a wonderful job. My fingers are a little sore from the button pushes (my Evo uses turn knobs)...I'll live though. I look forward to putting this to use now.

Here is the setup I made for my Radian Pro before I lost it.....don't ask.

Throttle switch is safety switch for motor...motor will not spin unless throttle switch is off (back) and throttle is in idle. This part was part of the example file that was uploaded in this thread.

ID0 - Normal Thermal flight - throttle stick controls camber
ID1 - Reflex flight - preset reflex of trailing edge
ID2 - Launch mode - preset trailing edge camber
RUD - Butterfly switch - Flaps down - Ailerons Up

You will have to set your own offsets for your plane, but it should not be too hard to figure out.

Good Luck and Good air

Bill

Originally Posted by BillyP52

Here is the setup I made for my Radian Pro before I lost it.....don't ask.

Bill

Its killing me.. I want to ask!

Originally Posted by Vantasstic

Woo-Hoo...my SmartieParts board arrived today. Thank you. It did take me a couple of hours to install the board, then open the Tx back up to connect the main back panel connector (Tx won't turn on without the connector installed ), install the er9x firmware (v397), and get the basic setups done. Of course I haven't flown it yet, but after a few minutes of playing I've been able to figure out most of the navigation. Very nice guys. Y'all with the brain to do this have done a wonderful job. My fingers are a little sore from the button pushes (my Evo uses turn knobs)...I'll live though. I look forward to putting this to use now.

I recieved my smartie board today too, however all I get is eeprom error...

I was showing off to a bunch of cute young ladies about 40 years younger than me by doing loops and rolls. I was flying inverted on the far side of a row of trees at the park I fly at. The plane went below the trees and never came back up. I thought it might have gone down on one of the commercial buildings so I used my Radian V1 with my keychain camera to do a video recon of the rooftops but no foamie to be found.

I only hope whoever found it is enjoying it half as much as I did.....now I am into 3D foamies and another Radian Pro will have to wait.

Bill

Originally Posted by showmaster

Great,
I'll try some way to verify a PPM signal without using a scope first chance. Just a thought,
I know that the PPM signal sounds like a growl and varies in it's sound when the sticks are moved. Using the PC scope idea that uses the sound card 20-20000 Hz pass band, maybe using a computer powered speaker or headset with let's say a .1Ufd cap in the hot audio input would let you listen to the pulses changes( connect the shield to the 9x Ground). I know if I used to put my 72MHz TX on top of my TV here in the us (analog channels) I could watch and hear my PPM signals when they were AM. I mention this in case the meter can't help. I just can't get time to do it tonight/today or I would, but I will just to have the knowledge it can be done. Maybe someone else will try it and report back if it works as a simple tester?
Getting it all to work with the original module as mentioned will sure be a big help in what's going on as well.
Maybe a new thread on just simple test equipment and computer programs is in order. I have no idea on how to start one, or if it has any merit? Just thinking.

Update
I made time and this is what I've found out as far as listening to the PPM and measuring it with a DVM.
Yes my computer speakers with a cap in series makes a super growl that changes with stick movement. This would be before any diode and right off the 9x PPM module top pin. I do have the 1K resistor/trainer mod before this point.
As for using a meter. My inexpensive DVM on the 20 volt scale reads .33 volts with the PPM signal off on my 9x and 4.53DC with a PPM signal present. I got 4.44 volts with the cap in line so I assume that I'm not reading a DC voltage but an average of the pulses? I got no real reading on the AC scale FYI. I used the switch on warning feature to kill the PPM at power up and then flipped the switch to turn the PPM pulses on and have the servos move and get the 4.53DC reading.
This may be enough to see whats going on.
Good luck and keep posting your results.

Originally Posted by Art Newland

I recieved my smartie board today too, however all I get is eeprom error...

When you write a new er9x into your radio your eeprom is deleted. So before updating you have to read old eeprom. First time just press a button and the radio starts up with a clean eeprom.

Originally Posted by azlodaiel

Is there a way to make the Back light from Hobbyking turn off and on like the one that comes with the smarty board?
I was wounding if i soldiered the Positive to the point on the board where the Smarties is that it would work?

Not quite so simple but not quite complicated either, that point is just a trigger like someone pointed it out, you will need a simple addition of a FET to switch the power, there is some instruction for that in the manual for the TH9X firmware (not ER9X), search for it and download it and you will see, fairly simple.

Originally Posted by azlodaiel

Is there a way to make the Back light from Hobbyking turn off and on like the one that comes with the smarty board?
I was wounding if i soldiered the Positive to the point on the board where the Smarties is that it would work?

Look up a BS170 or 2N7000 FET diagram.
Using the Turnigy BL Kit, cut the black wire going to the BL leaving some pig tails or extend it. Connect the Black wire piece that goes to the BL to the the "D" Drain(this is the ground return from the LEDs in the BL. Connect the black wire piece that goes back to the Turnigy connector to the "S" Source(this is ground/common) Connect the "G" Gate to pin 17 of the ATM64 CPU. No resistor needed in the Gate lead due to it's high impedance, but be careful not to short out pin 17. No resistor needed in the Drain lead because the Turnigy adapter has it. Make sure to insulate your wires and I used Hot Glue to tack everything down. If using the SP board and need more BL level use the FDD pin on the SP board as it connects to pin 17. I've done this mod and it works for me. Please be careful and it should work for you. Check all wiring twice before powering on.

Originally Posted by knutek

When you write a new er9x into your radio your eeprom is deleted. So before updating you have to read old eeprom. First time just press a button and the radio starts up with a clean eeprom.

I removed the program board and cleaned all the pads, put it back together and was able to flash the firmware. Backlght works, but very dim, I'll have to check into it further.

Originally Posted by Art Newland

I removed the program board and cleaned all the pads, put it back together and was able to flash the firmware. Backlght works, but very dim, I'll have to check into it further.

The SP board is an EL panel and not as bright as as a led panel. It also draws much less then the 90MA the Turnigy draws. I understand the SP panel was designed to draw very little power and be easy on the eyes for night flying and such. I have 3 SP boards and use one with the Turnigy BL and the FDD solder pad/BS170 FET mod because of the So Cal bright sun. The others are stock EL's. I don't think anything is wrong, just not super bright. It's a great board and you can upgrade the BL to led if you need more light. Simple and cheap. Maybe there will be both options in a future SP design? I see where Steven is asking for change requests for a future board. It's in another forum topic.
Glad to see you got your board working. Sure an easy way to go, is was for me so I bought a few more in case Steven takes a break and spends time with his new baby that may be here, or will be soon.
Enjoy programming you 9x.

Baby is coming August 30, rain or shine!

Originally Posted by coro

Well, the necessity of perfect voltage reading, applies to Lipos and almost only when they are charged. I can live with few percent tollerance as a Tx voltage display..
But the mod that makes it read right at lower than 7.2V voltage right (not exactly perfect callibrated value, IMHO.. just to show lower number and start alarm, instead of showing higher voltage) is very good.

Even if it would just replace Voltage number by some kind of bold Exclamation mark, and sound an alarm (without option to turn it off) that bandgap measurement had detected insufficient/falling down voltage for AD reading (and the whole mcu operation), I would be happy.

Please note that the internal reference has tolerance from 2.3V to 2.7V with a typical value of 2.56V. This is -11%/+5.5%. This makes the internal bandgap refeerence far less accurate then that LM7805 (+/- 4%).
Even if the resistors are 1% (which I doubt) you would be at -12.3%/+6.8%.

To put it in perspective:
If your cut-off alarm would be set to 7.0V (cut-out voltage of the LM7805 is at 7V typical), the alarm would go at 7.86V or maybe at 6.55V.
It is rediculous to put a low voltage warning on this kind of inaccurate readings. Calibration is definitely needed when using the bandgap reference, and even with the LM7805 used as reference it is highly recommended.

Volhout

Originally Posted by bertrand35

Hi,
Yes, it's in progress: a version which will have all features from er9x + flight phases (trims + dual-rates / expos + mixers), more telemetry features, and automatic conversion from er9x v4 EEPROM and gruvin9x v3 EEPROM.
Regards,
Bertrand

Hi Bertrand,

Any reason why you didn't put the SD card reader on the left side of the board. There enough spare room there. A small slot in the plastic housing would be the only thing to do. No cables, no extra pcb, no glue-ing....

Volhout

PPM Signal - so the good news was that the ppm signal was seeming to receive about 3.3v.
The bad news is after testing a couple times, i slipped a little and the voltmete pronged shorted out the DIY kit it seems or even a little of the back board of the 9x.

So i will be buying another 9X. the mode 2's are in stock again...

Anyone want parts from my current TX, pm me.