Originally Posted by brman

not true in my experience. The 9x with er9x puts out 5V on the ppm line. The early hack frksy modules without schottky (and 1 way frsky-Jr module) can only cope with 3.3V. A failure waiting to happen and it certainly caused problems for me.
(Coro posted a link to my thread on this a few posts up)

Toby

Thanks for the update. I've only used the 2way from the start so I missed the early days of DIY. To keep on track, if his module is of the newer series, the diode should be there? I'm still confused as the what DIY he's using. The other question is if the diode were missing, would he have been able to get it working even fir a short time before the module quit? Having no TX/servo action hopefully is a wiring or TX switch not off, or binding error, not a DIY failure. A failure is permanent, everything else can be fixed by him we hope.
A scope on the PPM pin or yellow wire would nail it right away if he had one. Trying another DIY would also be of help. Not having either requires one to recheck all work done and hope it's a wiring error.
The free scope program may be the next tool to have.
I understand some here were able to use a 1n4148 diode and get away with it, never tried it, just ordered Schottky's myself but nit had to use them so far.
I assume if it the module has been damaged by a high level, it's too late to "fix it"?
More info from him will get better answers so let's wait fir his update.
Myself, China being so far away, I always buy 2 of everything because it's cheap insurance. I blew up my first module due to stupidity and had to wait a month for a replacement. Pay now or pay later in frustration if you mess up.
I hope we can help get up and running.

Originally Posted by andrewju

I have my beeper set to "NoKey", and inactivity alarm set to "10m" (which is 10 minutes, I believe). The beeper itself works, I'm sure about it.

Checking is easy - leave your TX switched ON without touching anything, and after the "inactivity alarm" time your TX should start beeping trying to catch your attention. Mine doesn't do it.

BTW, I updated to the latest version (r363) and it's still the same.
My eeprom is attached (just rename to .eepe).

I've confirmed this issue. I will note that the batt alarm does work.

Originally Posted by captaingeek

I've confirmed this issue. I will note that the batt alarm does work.

See my post #7447. There is an obscure reason why the inactivity timer does not work at the default setting of 10m. Use 9m or 11m, then it is OK.

Mike.

Originally Posted by Mike Blandford

I see you are using the DIY module, to where did you connect the signal wire? It sounds as though the PPM signal is not getting to the module.

Mike.

Thanks for the replies guys.
Mike, i connected the signal wire (the yellow one on the DIY it) to the very top on the pins. I followed rcmodelreviews video on youtube. so from the top down (of the module pins) its yellow, black, red. Will get a photo tonight. Just thinking about what you said - might not be getting ppm signal. Without the ppm signal it would still bind with receivers as you push the button to go into bind mode, and as long as the module is getting voltage it should bind. I was thinking as the receiver is binding it should be wired all good, but will desolder it, and check out the soldering on the diode (from factory), and possibly re-do these.

Showmaster - i am not using the 2way module - just the simple V8 series. 2 way would just be too much headache for me currently as i am just getting into it. for me dont want to get too fancy, just want to fly, lol. (or attempt to)
Also what is the this free scope program??
Will take a look around
Also you say TX switch not off - on the ERsky firmware i used the simple 4 ch template and from what i can see no switches are assigned. should there be a particular one i should look out for?

Also would it be possible to put a voltmeter on the ppm line (should it fluctuate as i move the sticks around?). well of course it possible, lol but will be of any use...

A massive thanks to guys helping me out.

Is there a way to make the Back light from Hobbyking turn off and on like the one that comes with the smarty board?
I was wounding if i soldiered the Positive to the point on the board where the Smarties is that it would work?

Originally Posted by RandomBob

Also would it be possible to put a voltmeter on the ppm line (should it fluctuate as i move the sticks around?). well of course it possible, lol but will be of any use...

Worth a quick check, you won't see any fluctuation, but you should get a reading near to, but just below, the 5 volt supply level.
Can you remove the DIY module and put the original module, that came with the radio, back in?
Complete 'outside the box' thought, I wonder if the diode in the PPM line is in the wrong way round, that would stop it working!

Mike.

yes it is with a bs 170 or
07N03 L but check datas for wiring...
jmi

Originally Posted by Mike Blandford

Worth a quick check, you won't see any fluctuation, but you should get a reading near to, but just below, the 5 volt supply level.
Can you remove the DIY module and put the original module, that came with the radio, back in?
Complete 'outside the box' thought, I wonder if the diode in the PPM line is in the wrong way round, that would stop it working!

Mike.

Mike,

so if the diode is the wrong way around would i still see 5v on the ppm line (any other way of seeing if it is the wrong way around)

I can almost imagine some little chinese guy at the place soldering them on, and then just thinking to him self, i screw this guy up, diode backwards! giggling to himself as he does it.

I will read up on the basics of the schotzky diode see what it does.

I did put the old one back it (but i have cut the antenna so hold them real close) and same thing. Binds but no servo movement. but i did not remove the DIY module.
So i think check the diode, them if not remove diy completely and old one back in.

Just wanted to report another happy camper. Got my 9x, Smartieparts board, and loaded up er9x. Very slick!

I'm busy setting up a Radian Pro. Anyone have an eepe file on a 6 servo motor glider or the like?

Originally Posted by azlodaiel

Is there a way to make the Back light from Hobbyking turn off and on like the one that comes with the smarty board?
I was wounding if i soldiered the Positive to the point on the board where the Smarties is that it would work?

No! I wouldn't do that. My board is a little smarter than just "on and off" The "power" it gets from PIN 17 (the pad used to turn the EL backlight on/off) isn't for running the backlight - its simply there to "trigger" (for lack of a better word) the turning on/shutting off of the main backlight circuit. The main power is coming from elsewhere. Without some fancy circuitry, there's no way for you to use a simple backlight like the HK one with the Pin 17 on/off functionality. Sorry.

- Steven

Originally Posted by Carl Petersen

Just wanted to report another happy camper. Got my 9x, Smartieparts board, and loaded up er9x. Very slick!

I'm busy setting up a Radian Pro. Anyone have an eepe file on a 6 servo motor glider or the like?

Have fun!

Originally Posted by s_mack

No! I wouldn't do that. My board is a little smarter than just "on and off" The "power" it gets from PIN 17 (the pad used to turn the EL backlight on/off) isn't for running the backlight - its simply there to "trigger" (for lack of a better word) the turning on/shutting off of the main backlight circuit. The main power is coming from elsewhere. Without some fancy circuitry, there's no way for you to use a simple backlight like the HK one with the Pin 17 on/off functionality. Sorry.

- Steven

A friend of mine took a FET from one of my damaged servos and soldered it on the 9x to control the backlight from the pin 17..

Originally Posted by RandomBob

Mike,

so if the diode is the wrong way around would i still see 5v on the ppm line (any other way of seeing if it is the wrong way around)

I can almost imagine some little chinese guy at the place soldering them on, and then just thinking to him self, i screw this guy up, diode backwards! giggling to himself as he does it.

I will read up on the basics of the schotzky diode see what it does.

I did put the old one back it (but i have cut the antenna so hold them real close) and same thing. Binds but no servo movement. but i did not remove the DIY module.
So i think check the diode, them if not remove diy completely and old one back in.

The scope program link was posted some weeks ago and a seaech should find it. I'll look for it myself and repost it if I can find it.

If I'm reading this right, you were supplied a Schottky diode to add yourself?

The Schottky Diode band (Cathode) should point/connect to the TX PPM out. The non band end should point/connect to the DIY input at the circuit board. If it's external and you connect it to the yellow wire, then the non band to the yellow wire, the band end/cathode to the tx PPM out. On the 9x the band to the top pin on the module board. I'm not sure without cutting the trace going to pin 1 on the 9X module pins and adding a 1K resistor in series with the trace, that the 9X can drive the DIY and original module at the same time. Removing the connection to the DIY, yellow wire, is a good idea if you want to try the original 9X module.
If still no servo movement then it's hopefully it's programming. I never tried the 4 ch setup provided so I'll try that as well. Work fast if you're not going to resolder the antenna to the module. I'm not sure how long it will run that way?
Try loading one of the posted mixes here. I think they will all supply normal stick movement as a test.

I think anyone with first hand experiance with using the scope program would be a super help by posting the info needed to get it going. Seems like a lot of new users could use it to trouble shoot an install.
I'm fortunate enough to have been given a nice scope by a ham friend so I lucked out at the start and never tried the PC scope programs. It pays to ask around I guess.
As for the diode and voltage reading as an educated guess. If correct, the 9X side (Band/Cathode)will be 5 volts from the 9X. The non band side to the DIY/Yellow will be 3.3 volts from the DIY. Because of the diode action the 9X stays at it's level and the DIY stays at it's level. Of course these signals are going from 0 to the 5 or 3.3 level so your meter may average it out to something else. Try AC and DC meter mode to see it it helps.
OK, I'll try these things myself to see if they have and validity in trouble shooting.
Anyone please join in with corrections or more additions to help get things working.

No, the diode was not a self solder. It was all ready soldered on the yellow ppm line of the DIY kit.

Will try to get voltage reading tonight.

Originally Posted by RandomBob

No, the diode was not a self solder. It was all ready soldered on the yellow ppm line of the DIY kit.

Will try to get voltage reading tonight.

Great,
I'll try some way to verify a PPM signal without using a scope first chance. Just a thought,
I know that the PPM signal sounds like a growl and varies in it's sound when the sticks are moved. Using the PC scope idea that uses the sound card 20-20000 Hz pass band, maybe using a computer powered speaker or headset with let's say a .1Ufd cap in the hot audio input would let you listen to the pulses changes( connect the shield to the 9x Ground). I know if I used to put my 72MHz TX on top of my TV here in the us (analog channels) I could watch and hear my PPM signals when they were AM. I mention this in case the meter can't help. I just can't get time to do it tonight/today or I would, but I will just to have the knowledge it can be done. Maybe someone else will try it and report back if it works as a simple tester?
Getting it all to work with the original module as mentioned will sure be a big help in what's going on as well.
Maybe a new thread on just simple test equipment and computer programs is in order. I have no idea on how to start one, or if it has any merit? Just thinking.