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Old Feb 05, 2013, 06:01 PM
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Originally Posted by planeman View Post
There is a trick to this.

You have to get rid of all unnecessary image digital information. Plans are black and white so you don't need any "color" or "gray" information. To eliminate this extraneous information you have to save your image file as a bitmap file (.BMP).

However the problem with bitmap is the lines in the plan tend to be “jaggy” and they lose their smooth flow. There is a trick to dealing with this:


  1. If you happen to be working in color (God forbid!), change the file to “grayscale”. Always work in plans in grayscale as there is much less for a computer to calculate and things will go faster – much faster. I always scan and prepare my plans at 300 dots per inch (dpi). When you are finished preparing the plan are are ready to wind it up, do the following.
  2. Change the plan resolution from 300 dpi to 900 dpi. Sometimes when I am working on a small plan I even change it to a higher resolution like 1200 dpi.
  3. While at the greater resolution the next step is to get rid of all shades of gray and turn the image into one of pure black and pure white. The best way to do this for plans is to use the “Posterize” feature in Photoshop (Image – Adjustments – Posterize). NOTE: “Posterizing” is an old photographic trick used a number of years ago done in a darkroom on an enlarger that forces various shades of a color into only one or a very limited shades of a color. This was to prepare a color photo for the limited number colors used by the silk screen process when printing posters. It often gives a pleasing artistic effect that designers like so this has been enabled as a digital process in Photoshop.
    What this process does for you is to force all grays above 50% to a pure black and to force all grays 50% and below to pure white. It will also eliminate little hints of light gray smudges in your plan and make it look very clean. To do this with the “Posterize” feature, when you bring up “Posterize” (Image – Adjustments - Posterize), a small window will open that shows a slider bar and a small window labeled “Levels”. Using the slider, set the “Levels” to 2 and press “O.K.”
    You will get a better idea of what this feature does by doing this with a color photo and playing around with the slider. You will find it interesting.
  4. Now that you have “posterized” at the high resolution, the next step is to change the file type from “grayscale” to “bitmap”. You do this by finding the bitmap command under the “image” menu (Image – Mode – Bitmap). A small window will open up that gives you choices of what type of bitmap you want under “Method”. Select “50% Threshold”. NOTE: “50% Threshold” does essentially what you did with “Posterize”, however “Posterize” does a much cleaner job. Don't change any other settings in that window. Press “O,K,”.
  5. Now that you have saved the file as a high resolution bitmap file, you need to lower the resolution to make a smaller file. Change the resolution of your image from a high resolution back to 300 dpi. (Image – Image Size – Resolution). Note: I have found that doing the bitmap at a high resolution and then lowering the resolution gives a better result than just doing the bitmap at the lower resolution. Why, I don't know.
  6. You are now finished working on your image. Make the final “Save File”.
  7. But you are still not quite finished. You want to save this file as an Adobe Acrobat file (.pdf). Open the file in Acrobat and save as a .pdf file. NOTE: Acrobat further compresses the bitmap image file you made by converting the image to a “vector” image that is no longer made of small dots (.bmp) but converted into a mathematical calculation. Acrobat also has a “smoothing” algorithm built in that smooths curved lines which improves the bitmap image some. NOTE: The Acrobat vector image has the advantage of being able to be enlarged or reduced without affecting the resolution of the image – handy for enlarging plans.
    I recommend that you now compare the file size of your original grayscale plan image you started with to the file size of the final Acrobat .pdf file. You will see a HUGE difference. I have found that I can get very large plans (36” x 120” or more) into the maximum 3 megabytes file size allowed by this RC Groups website without any loss of clarity of plan line using this method.
Planeman
Excellent, thanks for the tips. I'll try all the above on my next plans.
Cheers John
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Old Feb 05, 2013, 08:37 PM
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United States, VA, Stafford
Joined Jun 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rick.benjamin View Post
Planeman is one of several folks finding time to reconstruct the parts.
I've been working on them every day since Steve asked for help.
29 January, I posted a clip of my CAD desktop.
"dirty" scans, invisible parts, missing sheets.

When will the Stearman parts sheets be done?
Ask again in 10 minutes.
Please do not take it wrong, but after seeing those Stearman plans "AND" cut sheets I got a terrible itch to build it. Patience is definitely not one of my virtues. Please proceed with the great work guys....
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Old Feb 05, 2013, 09:38 PM
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Here are 3 more scans from the pages of the Airflow Newsletter. If I'm not mistaken, Vance Gilbert was the editor for all three of the issues.

-Tiny Indoor R.O.G. Novice Model No. 2 aka A SImple Baby R.O.G by F.V.B. Ehling. From Model Airplane News, May, 1942 (When are they going to be honest and change the current magazine's name to ARF news?) As printed in the newsletter, the wing panel is just under 5 inches long. I suspect it's meant to be 5 inches. Motor stick printed at just under 6 and a half inches.

-A 12 inch version of the Mechanic's Flyabout, by Guillows in 1939. There's also a sixteen inch version, which I think is already here, or else on Outerzone. This one's from the August, 1997 Airflow.

-Finally, from an issue which I can't find the date on, but which was postmarked in October, 1997, here's the 29 Inch Cabin Model by M.B. Kleckner. Vance writes that it is courtesy of Gil Bellanger. Said to be from "Model Plane Planbook" by Kleckner, published 1940.

As usual with my scans, you may have to fiddle with the size you print them at, as Paint and I don't get along so well. I suppose one of these days I need to go to Gimp. Life is too complicated.
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Old Feb 06, 2013, 12:21 AM
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Australia, NSW, Lane Cove West
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Using Planemans advice I've just finished the "Perigrine" as published in the 1954 May edition of Aeromodeller.
A very attractive model for small diesels. Some of the construction is a little outdated and could be improved. None the less still worth a look.
I got rid of all the \\\\\\\ in the background and re did all the lettering.
Comes out as a nice crisp plan, but none of the original drawing details have been lost.
I think it's worth the effort.

I must say I use mainly now Microsoft Paint for a lot of the functions. Especially re drawing lines and curves. It's also good for text too.
All the other major functions are still done in CS3 and now CS6
Can't draw lines without having to rasterize if you want to go back and do other things. Got to learn to work in Layers to get more out of Photo Shop.

Anyway, here's the Perigrine. Enjoy.

Last thought
Can you let me know if it's scaled correctly please?

Cheers John
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Old Feb 06, 2013, 12:51 AM
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Just occurred to me to post the original drawing with all the background cross hatching.
Makes the files bigger and also they come out looking very busy once done!
Here's the original drawing as published.
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Old Feb 06, 2013, 06:19 AM
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Bradford West Yorkshire, UK
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Quote:
Last thought
Can you let me know if it's scaled correctly please?
Within 2mm of stated wing span, Good conversion, you should do a write up of using "Paint" for drawing.

Every little helps.

Not a race, but you should inform how long it took, gives others the chance to appreciate the effort. (DAMHIK)

Regards Ian.
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Old Feb 06, 2013, 08:23 AM
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Beautiful work on the plan John!
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Old Feb 06, 2013, 10:26 AM
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Joined Dec 2003
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Sterling Stearman Parts

Quote:
Originally Posted by planeman View Post
Yeah, the idiot that took on this job (me) is juggling previously committed to obligations. It will take some time for me to finish the Stearman parts. But you may keep on reminding me and I won't take offense. Of course I will expect that you won't take offense when I keep dragging my heels.

Planeman

Save yourselves. Go to: http://lazer-works.com/list.html

Sterling Stearman PT17 by Sterling Models $242.67

The plans are on Outerzone.
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Old Feb 06, 2013, 11:38 AM
WMD
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raglafart View Post
..Comes out as a nice crisp plan, but none of the original drawing details have been lost. I think it's worth the effort..
Outstanding. Very fine work.

Steve
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Old Feb 06, 2013, 11:45 AM
WMD
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Denest View Post
The plans are on Outerzone.
Well yes the plan is, but the printwood is not. That surely is the whole point

...on the subject of which, I have a new lead today on possibly more printwood scans/drawings to come in from another 2nd source, for the big Stearman PT-17. Will let you know and post them here if and when that happens. Don't get too excited though, he says the kit was incomplete and many parts did not fit. Quote: "I have bought a few years ago a heavily damaged kit with plenty of parts missing or just the outer lines of the parts left in the wood. While trying to build 'original parts' from these outer lines or the parts which were still in the kit, I have made drawings of the 'new parts'. To get to the point, the formers have several mistakes, which I couldn´t solve after assembling to the frame, but perhaps they can help (the position of most stringers is not correct!)."
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Old Feb 06, 2013, 12:59 PM
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I would like to recommend to all builders here that they take as many part patterns directly from the actual plan as they can and to check printwood or die-cut parts against the plan before building with them. Over the ten years or so that I have been preparing plans in Photoshop, you would be surprised at how many printwood/die-cut parts don't accurately fit the plan. In most cases you can find all you need on the plan except for round fuselage formers. Usually even the wing ribs can be found on the plan as the "root rib" in a fuselage side view.

Planeman
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Old Feb 06, 2013, 01:10 PM
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Planeman, thanks for the “instructions” on Photoshop, excellent.

Raglafart, thanks for the Perigrin plans, a very nice looking model.

Gentlemen, your hard work and dedication are very much appreciated.

Thanks again.
John
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Old Feb 06, 2013, 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnAV8R View Post
Planeman, thanks for the “instructions” on Photoshop, excellent.

Raglafart, thanks for the Perigrin plans, a very nice looking model.

Gentlemen, your hard work and dedication are very much appreciated.

Thanks again.
John
And my thanks also. Beautiful work.
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Old Feb 06, 2013, 06:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnAV8R View Post
Planeman, thanks for the “instructions” on Photoshop, excellent.

Raglafart, thanks for the Perigrin plans, a very nice looking model.

Gentlemen, your hard work and dedication are very much appreciated.

Thanks again.
John
I'm going to +3 you John, very nice work.
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Old Feb 06, 2013, 07:42 PM
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