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Old Dec 31, 2012, 02:29 PM
WMD
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Got it. It's the dpi being skewed somehow. I dropped it into Photoshop and it was showing as 72dpi, and the page size is 92 in wide. I reset the dpi to 400, and that gives you a page width of 16.8in and a span of 15in.

Here it is as a 15in span, in pdf.
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Old Dec 31, 2012, 02:32 PM
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I have got about half way through this thread and am wondering if anyone has the plan for a Mercury Agressor. This was a delta wing FF design by LE Ellis and was kitted in the mid 50's.
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Old Dec 31, 2012, 02:54 PM
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There's a link to an index for this thread on the first page of the thread.
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Old Jan 03, 2013, 01:51 PM
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Hello Wingman,
which model is to be seen in your Avatar?
Best Regards
Peter
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Old Jan 03, 2013, 03:12 PM
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Hi Peter,

It's the Frog Jupiter. I keep meaning to make one for myself, but never seem to get around to it. Here's the plan link: http://www.outerzone.co.uk/plan_details.asp?ID=2290

Steve
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Old Jan 03, 2013, 11:01 PM
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Here is a nice old one I found on my computer that I haven't uploaded.

Planeman
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Old Jan 04, 2013, 12:32 AM
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speaking of Curtiss

Here are scans of a couple of dime scale plans I have sitting around. Unfortunately, they are copies of copies, but they're still interesting, even if a bit rough. Both are dime scale. One is the Curtiss Airmail Biplane, which is so ugly it's cute. And the other is the Curtiss Wright Coupe. Both are 16 inch span. The former is Comet (I think) Kit No. -123, the latter is Comet kit A-148
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Old Jan 04, 2013, 04:13 AM
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One is the Curtiss Airmail Biplane, which is so ugly it's cute.
Not ugly. Just minimalistic. The plans say to cover the top of the wings only. I bet it was a good flier, even back in the day. Both planes are nice.
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Old Jan 04, 2013, 11:31 PM
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Kitty Hawk B-8 dime scale Comet

Another scan from my stash of plans.
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Old Jan 05, 2013, 01:24 AM
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little flying wings

Copies of these were given to me by David Dodge some years ago. He favored unorthodox designs. Two of the more memorable ones were an outdoor twin pusher Concorde nocal, and a nocal flying flapjack. Both flew well. I've got a bunch of other plans from him too, many of which are old enough that I feel comfortable scanning them.

So we have:
-Flying Wing Model by Edward Harms. Comes from Prize WInners Book of Model Aircraft, edited by Carl Cloudy (sp?) 1931. This is a very simple rubber pusher model. There are some notes on it. I think they're from Dave. I don't know if the wood sizes in the notes are what he used when he built one or are from the book. The note says 70 percent reduction, and I measure the copy Dave gave me at 6 inches, so that probably means the original size was 20 inches.

-Gliding Wing by F.V.B Ehling from M.A.N. February 1946 Simple free flight glider, built up. This model seems to be around 18 or 20 inches.

-flying wing Jetex model. If there's a name, I missed it. Just over 17 inches span all sheet. By Paul del Gatto, MAN April 1957

-Tailles Tractor Edwin Hamilton Complete Model AIrcraft Manual 1933. (This is an earlier edition than the one I've posted from before.) Something like 12 inch span or perhaps slightly more. Another very simple model with a single stick fuselage.

-Winsome Wing Paul Del Gatto_from MAN May 1957 12 inch span Another relatively simple all sheet glider.
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Old Jan 06, 2013, 02:10 AM
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Originally Posted by lincoln View Post
Another scan from my stash of plans.
Hi Lincoln - not sure why this little plan is posted so large ... it should be like half a meg ... why is it so huge?
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Old Jan 06, 2013, 03:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Luckyducky View Post
Hi Lincoln - not sure why this little plan is posted so large ... it should be like half a meg ... why is it so huge?
16 million colors!

Joe
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Old Jan 06, 2013, 06:38 AM
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All,

I'm preparing to cover a Square Soar 72 with tissue, after practicing on several smaller birds (1931 Northrup Primary and a Shoo-fly). Basically, I fought with the paper and dope method of applying the paper to the edges of the surfaces, and the paper won (i.e. the paper would pull loose from the edges as the water mist dried, etc. etc. etc.) !

Question: will a 50-50 mixture of white glue and water applied with a small brush at the edges work better and not add a significant amount of weight to the bird ?

Any help/advice would be appreciated.

Regards,

Charlie
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Old Jan 06, 2013, 08:13 AM
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Hi,
Has anyone got a FULL SIZE plan for Carl Wheeley's SENIOR SENATOR.
This model won the 1954 World Championship Cup. It was published in the Air Trails Annual 1955(??)
Also, Toshi Matsudo's ZERO 1/2 A power model. I think it was kitted in the mid 1950s by Modelcraft in the USA.
Hope someone "out there" can help.
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Old Jan 06, 2013, 08:44 AM
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Charlie,

As white glue is water soluble would it not let go when you water shrunk the tissue?

I know that people sometimes do struggle with the dope/thinners method of attaching tissue, but it is the ONLY way I ever do it and I assure you it does work. My method is:

Dope structure where tissue is to adhere, minimum of two coats, better three, and the dope needs to be quite thick - i.e not weaker than 75% dope 25% thinners.

Cut tissue panel oversize then EITHER:

Draw tissue over a shallow water bath to wet one side, flop it onto framework and paint through where is is being stuck to framework with straight thinners. The thinners will activate the dope on the framework and dry very quickly. Only use thinners for this NOT DOPE which will not penetrate the tissue as well. The thinners/reactivated dope will dry quickly, before the water dries out and the tissue shrinks so it will not pull away. Trim the panel and dope down the edges. Allow to dry throroughly before doping.

OR

The above method, with tissue wet, is very much my preferred one as the thinners seems to penetrate wet tissue better than dry, however, as an alternative the tissue can be applied dry and, after the thinners/reactivated dope has dried, misted with water.

Believe me, it DOES work - the examples below are all done like this, albeit in these cases the tissue is applied over mylar, which makes no difference to the method.

If you really cannot get to grips with the dope/thinners method (and some very experienced builders cannot), then I would use wall paper paste mixed reasonably thin, apply the tissue dry and water shrink only when the paste has dried. Weight should be insignificant.

You need to have good tissue, I use Esaki exclusively these days, but it works equally well with light and heavyweight Modelspan, which is, I think, similar to Silkspan
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