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Old Jul 29, 2012, 04:04 PM
Rockin' & Flyin'
Saxguy1000's Avatar
Virginia Beach
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Originally Posted by Chap1012 View Post
Well Black had already reported that solid CF is not the way to go. But, the hollow filled with expoxy as WS suggests. Interesting. I see the stock CF main shafts are back in stock at Helidirect

Mike.
I used thin CA to fill my most recent shaft that I noticed came with a crack already in it (nice they go out of their way to pre-crack my shaft!) It filled the crack and it's worked fine with no weight added. Epoxy will add more weight, but would probably work.
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Old Jul 29, 2012, 06:06 PM
Easy on the Sticks!
BattleDude's Avatar
United States, WY, Crowheart
Joined Aug 2011
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I wonder about the epoxy resin called JB Weld for the shaft problem? It is extremely strong as some of you may know, and can be tapped or threaded if required.

Kyle
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Old Jul 29, 2012, 07:35 PM
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Oh, JB Weld will more than work. It's as good a glue as you can do.
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Old Jul 29, 2012, 09:10 PM
NotAnotherMomentLostToSei zures
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United States, MA, Malden
Joined Mar 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saxguy1000 View Post
Oh, JB Weld will more than work. It's as good a glue as you can do.
I used J-B Weld on the feet of my V4 (click my name to see blog). The stuff I used was two part. That would be a PITA to try and load it into the shaft tube. You would have to work fast as hell to load the J-B Weld mixture into a syringe/applicator to inject it into the hollow of the shaft.

Ideas?

Mike.
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Old Jul 29, 2012, 09:20 PM
Easy on the Sticks!
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United States, WY, Crowheart
Joined Aug 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chap1012 View Post
I used J-B Weld on the feet of my V4 (click my name to see blog). The stuff I used was two part. That would be a PITA to try and load it into the shaft tube. You would have to work fast as hell to load the J-B Weld mixture into a syringe/applicator to inject it into the hollow of the shaft.

Ideas?

Mike.
Well Ole Chap, JB Weld is slow. One can work with it for 15 to 30 minutes. In fact, when applying it, it will "run" for quite a while, making the applier "stay with it" for a bit. It is a slow epoxy I think. One of the easy to work with glues.

Kyle
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Old Jul 29, 2012, 09:20 PM
Rockin' & Flyin'
Saxguy1000's Avatar
Virginia Beach
Joined Dec 2009
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I'm not sure what the intent is, but thin CA seals up all the hairline cracks and adds no weight. However, if only the ends of the shaft are cracked, then epoxy/JB Weld would be easy to fill in the end about 1-2mm and hold it tight.

However, if you want the actual glue of all glues for cg, get this: IC 2000 HIGH STRENGTH TOUGHENED CA Nearly Twice the Strength of Traditional CA.
A rubber toughened cyanoacrylate that forms superior shock resistant bonds on non-porous surfaces. The black colored CA has added flexibility for the bonding of metals, fiberghlass, rubber, carbon fiber and advanced materials. It's on sale at my favorite supply for only $6.40.
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Old Jul 29, 2012, 09:58 PM
Look ma, no hands!
1Pilgrim's Avatar
United States, WI, Sheboygan
Joined Aug 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saxguy1000 View Post
I'm not sure what the intent is, but thin CA seals up all the hairline cracks and adds no weight. However, if only the ends of the shaft are cracked, then epoxy/JB Weld would be easy to fill in the end about 1-2mm and hold it tight.

However, if you want the actual glue of all glues for cg, get this: IC 2000 HIGH STRENGTH TOUGHENED CA Nearly Twice the Strength of Traditional CA.
A rubber toughened cyanoacrylate that forms superior shock resistant bonds on non-porous surfaces. The black colored CA has added flexibility for the bonding of metals, fiberghlass, rubber, carbon fiber and advanced materials. It's on sale at my favorite supply for only $6.40.
Ya I read that the mfr's are adding different stuff to give it special properties like more viscosity, impact resistance, shear strength, etc.

Is the black stuff gooier (it's a word - look it up! ) or does it still flow like Krazy Glue? I'd want it to penetrate and fill the cracks, not just sit on the surface.
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Old Jul 29, 2012, 10:01 PM
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Virginia Beach
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It's the same thickness at regular CA, or you can get it thinner. Maybe it's just a "man" thing, but I buy every glue I can get my hands on--and I never have the one I need.
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Old Jul 29, 2012, 10:07 PM
NotAnotherMomentLostToSei zures
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United States, MA, Malden
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Originally Posted by Saxguy1000 View Post
It's the same thickness at regular CA, or you can get it thinner. Maybe it's just a "man" thing, but I buy every glue I can get my hands on--and I never have the one I need.
This brings new meaning to having a "stiff one" and "all hands on d*ck"

Mike.
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Old Jul 29, 2012, 10:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Chap1012 View Post
This brings new meaning to having a "stiff one" and "all hands on d*ck"

Mike.
Mike, if your going to use the IC2000 on your hands, you better get the debondwr too.
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Old Jul 29, 2012, 10:19 PM
NotAnotherMomentLostToSei zures
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[quote=saxguy1000;22302003]mike, if your going to use the ic2000 on your hands, you better get the debondwr too.[/quo

lol...
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Old Jul 29, 2012, 10:54 PM
Scout CX | mCX2 | mSR | 120SR
North_of_49's Avatar
Canada, AB, Edmonton
Joined Dec 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saxguy1000 View Post
It's the same thickness at regular CA,
But which "regular" CA... thin, medium or thick?

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Old Jul 30, 2012, 09:10 AM
Look ma, no hands!
1Pilgrim's Avatar
United States, WI, Sheboygan
Joined Aug 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by North_of_49 View Post
But which "regular" CA... thin, medium or thick?

Attachment 5047055
For penetrating and bonding those itty bitty cracks I use the thinnest stuff I can find; for me that's the "Original Super Glue". I don't think it has any additives in it so it's really "runny", just the ticket for flowing into tight spaces. I also use facial tissue to quickly blot the outside surfaces before the glue sets up, and wait a half hour or so before re-assembling the rotor head.
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Old Jul 30, 2012, 12:26 PM
Newbie but coming on fast
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United States, KY, La Grange
Joined Jun 2012
143 Posts
OK, I have searched this thread but cannot find any comments on my issue. The battery tray flips up on me as I am inserting the battery into it. It does not appear to be broken but it is a royal PITA!

Has anyone else experienced this and is there a solution short of upgrading to one of the bling trays?

And while I am at it, one of those upgrades I looked at showed the Trex 250 landing gear on the 120 SR; is this a straigt swap upgrade or are modifications in order to do this?
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Old Jul 30, 2012, 12:58 PM
NotAnotherMomentLostToSei zures
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United States, MA, Malden
Joined Mar 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KYChopper View Post
OK, I have searched this thread but cannot find any comments on my issue. The battery tray flips up on me as I am inserting the battery into it. It does not appear to be broken but it is a royal PITA!

Has anyone else experienced this and is there a solution short of upgrading to one of the bling trays?

And while I am at it, one of those upgrades I looked at showed the Trex 250 landing gear on the 120 SR; is this a straigt swap upgrade or are modifications in order to do this?
The stock battery tray should not "flip" or move. It's held in place by a single screw (also for the front motor screw). Take a good look at it, as it could be broke. Many of us use the velcro mod including myself.
http://astroid-designs.myshopify.com...-battery-mount

Mike.
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