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Old Jun 13, 2012, 10:14 PM
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Coptafeel's Avatar
Joined Mar 2011
213 Posts
Not sure what you guys are using for mounts but I never could get mine in CG using the RKH mount with the 1300s. I'm using the Astroid Designs mount with the batts and have nearly perfect CG (using Align 250 skids, tailboom supports and RKH fin). Mine is ever-so-slightly nose heavy and I like it that way.
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Old Jun 14, 2012, 06:21 AM
Rockin' & Flyin'
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Virginia Beach
Joined Dec 2009
2,821 Posts
No, right now I'm using the stock canopy and Xtreme 250 skids. The battery balances when it's end is about even with the aft side of the main gear to about 3mm forward of that point.
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Old Jun 14, 2012, 10:33 AM
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RaymondM's Avatar
United States, MI, Cadillac
Joined Apr 2011
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Hi, I am having some stabilization problems with my 120 sr and think the Trex 250 or the Gaui 100 skid's extra weight might add to the stabilization of the heli. Can anyone point me in the right direction.

Thanks
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Old Jun 14, 2012, 11:21 AM
Look ma, no hands!
1Pilgrim's Avatar
United States, WI, Sheboygan
Joined Aug 2011
1,252 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by RaymondM View Post
Hi, I am having some stabilization problems with my 120 sr and think the Trex 250 or the Gaui 100 skid's extra weight might add to the stabilization of the heli. Can anyone point me in the right direction.

Thanks
More weight might dampen the oscillations but it won't cure the underlying problem(s) and will definitely shorten flight times. Exactly what kind of "stabilization problems" are you seeing?
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Old Jun 14, 2012, 11:32 AM
Look ma, no hands!
1Pilgrim's Avatar
United States, WI, Sheboygan
Joined Aug 2011
1,252 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Saxguy1000 View Post
No, right now I'm using the stock canopy and Xtreme 250 skids. The battery balances when it's end is about even with the aft side of the main gear to about 3mm forward of that point.
That jives with my experience.

I went back to the stock skids and removed the tail boom supports to save weight. Also, in order to keep the cg as far forward as possible I put on a new canopy and didn't cut away any material. I'll have to take the canopy off to mount the battery for each flight but consider that a small price to pay for extended flight times.

I hang the battery on Dylwad's mount with the tail end centered under the main shaft. CG is perfect with zero tx trims on all axes. I just flew for 6 minutes with the latest setup; post flight voltage is 3.81V.
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Old Jun 14, 2012, 12:13 PM
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United States, MI, Cadillac
Joined Apr 2011
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Originally Posted by 1Pilgrim View Post
More weight might dampen the oscillations but it won't cure the underlying problem(s) and will definitely shorten flight times. Exactly what kind of "stabilization problems" are you seeing?

Well, the heli seems to have violent swings as the heli pitches up and back sometimes then continues to wander around this axis, it seems no amount of correction on my part can bring it to stabilize and i'm lucky to land it without crashing.
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Old Jun 14, 2012, 01:05 PM
S107G MSR MSRX 120SR Nano QX
United Kingdom, Coventry
Joined Jan 2012
476 Posts
Would this transmitter be worth buying as an upgrade to me stock 120SR TX ?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Spectrum-D...item2a1ec7fd71
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Old Jun 14, 2012, 01:21 PM
Look ma, no hands!
1Pilgrim's Avatar
United States, WI, Sheboygan
Joined Aug 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RaymondM View Post
Well, the heli seems to have violent swings as the heli pitches up and back sometimes then continues to wander around this axis, it seems no amount of correction on my part can bring it to stabilize and i'm lucky to land it without crashing.
The kind of oscillation you describe is generally caused either by overcorrecting with the sticks ("pilot induced oscillation") or by some kind of imbalance in the heli itself leading to TBE ("toilet bowl effect) OR BOTH. I'll pm my addy so we can discuss it off line.
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Old Jun 14, 2012, 01:57 PM
Helis and Planes
Canada, ON, Owen Sound
Joined Mar 2012
247 Posts
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Originally Posted by micro2000 View Post
Would this transmitter be worth buying as an upgrade to me stock 120SR TX ?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Spectrum-D...item2a1ec7fd71
Don't waste your money. Save some more and get a DX6i at least. You can program it to make the 120 so much better.
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Old Jun 14, 2012, 02:02 PM
USAF Retired - 1968-1988
Jake8131's Avatar
United States, IL, Mascoutah
Joined Dec 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by micro2000 View Post
Would this transmitter be worth buying as an upgrade to me stock 120SR TX ?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Spectrum-D...item2a1ec7fd71
If you are short on funds, yes. If you have only one heli, yes.
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Old Jun 14, 2012, 02:45 PM
Look ma, no hands!
1Pilgrim's Avatar
United States, WI, Sheboygan
Joined Aug 2011
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Originally Posted by Jake8131 View Post
If you are short on funds, yes. If you have only one heli, yes.
If you only plan on ever having only one heli, yes.
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Old Jun 14, 2012, 03:45 PM
Registered User
United States, CA
Joined Jan 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RaymondM View Post
Well, the heli seems to have violent swings as the heli pitches up and back sometimes then continues to wander around this axis, it seems no amount of correction on my part can bring it to stabilize and i'm lucky to land it without crashing.
If your heli has a lot of flight time on it you should check the fly bar center hole fo out of round. Insert a drill bit the size of the hole . There should be even light around the drill bit. If the hole appears elongated, replace fly bar. It doesn't take much wear to cause problems.
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Old Jun 14, 2012, 04:26 PM
Look ma, no hands!
1Pilgrim's Avatar
United States, WI, Sheboygan
Joined Aug 2011
1,252 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1Pilgrim View Post
The kind of oscillation you describe is generally caused either by overcorrecting with the sticks ("pilot induced oscillation") or by some kind of imbalance in the heli itself leading to TBE ("toilet bowl effect) OR BOTH.
IME TBE is usually caused by (in order):
1. Blades chipped, out of balance or not tracking properly;
2. Flybar out of balance or not tracking properly;
3. Links missing, disconnected, or loose or binding in anti-rotation guides;
4. Binding main gear
5. Cracked main shaft.
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Old Jun 14, 2012, 05:16 PM
USAF Retired - 1968-1988
Jake8131's Avatar
United States, IL, Mascoutah
Joined Dec 2010
3,219 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1Pilgrim View Post
IME TBE is usually caused by (in order):
1. Blades chipped, out of balance or not tracking properly; No
2. Flybar out of balance or not tracking properly; Yes
3. Links missing, disconnected, or loose or binding in anti-rotation guides; Yes
4. Binding main gear No
5. Cracked main shaft. No


TBE is only caused by worn links, worn swash balls, blade grips...a cracked shaft will only cause wobble.
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Old Jun 14, 2012, 06:31 PM
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United States, MI, Cadillac
Joined Apr 2011
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Well, I don't think it is a case of TBE as I can hover it inside without wind nicely and it is hands off stable (for a few seconds anyway) . I took the 120sr out again today, to put it to a test, and it did circles L/R and some ff, I'm pretty sure the wind was a contributing factor the other day that and the pilot error of over correcting. I see better what to expect from this heli as in knowing it's flight characteristics, it covers a lot of space in a very short time and I know it is very sensitive to just a breeze this and factor in the over correction and you have an unwilling participant in a wild ride to say the least.
I am used to the flybar of the Solo Pro 260a and it's flight characteristics I am developing some mad skills with it and I think I am thinking that this might be on the same plane as the 260a in regards to flight characteristics inherent to a 45 degree flybar, but then each heli has it's own unique characteristics inherent to that heli.
What i'm trying to say is that I'm a newbie to the 120 sr and I must learn it's ways or it's time to take up lawn darts.
Thanks to all that gave their time and input to help me it is much appreciated.
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