Espritmodel.com Telemetry Radio
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Old Dec 20, 2011, 01:58 PM
Look ma, no hands!
1Pilgrim's Avatar
United States, WI, Sheboygan
Joined Aug 2011
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Originally Posted by bulbsrtw View Post
Wow ! Very stable video quality !
I need to see your mod, BRAVISSIMO.
From the description it sounds like the #16 cam may also give the pilot more control over the audio (no pun intended ).
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Old Dec 20, 2011, 03:53 PM
Easy on the Sticks!
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United States, WY, Crowheart
Joined Aug 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chap1012 View Post
I once installed PTC fuses between my 2 motors and the 4in1 on my V4 coax:
http://www.eskyhelicopters.com/xtrem...ors-p-681.html
To insure you didn't burn out the 4in1 in a rookie mishap. It got to a point were my flight times were going down hill. The motors seemed warmer than usual along with the battery. Even though the motors had very few flights on them, I decided to change the two motors out anyway. As I was changing out one of the motors, the wire on the PTC fuse literally fell off in my hand. So, I checked the other fuse wires and they were barely hanging on as well. I removed both fuses from the motors and all was well.

So, to wrap this up IMHO, the PTC fuse wire was barely hanging on, that was connected to the motor(s) were bad. This would equal high resistance. In turn, asking the battery for more power to over come that resistance, that heated the motors. In short, I thought my motors or battery (i did try different batteries with the same results) was going bad and all the time it was poor wiring going from the motors. I know I'm talking coax VS. the 120SR but, the same principle applies IMHO.

Mike.
Mike...Hmmmm...
This interesting... I suppose it could overheat the motor if the motor didn't have enough juice to turn at full RPM. and the pilot just kept hammering the throttle. But usually connectors with that much resistance fail first, causing heat at the connector from arcing.
What do you think guys? Will a bad connector with high resistance cause the main motor to overheat?
Kyle
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Old Dec 20, 2011, 04:07 PM
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Kelowna, BC Canada
Joined Nov 2010
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Installing rkh swash, adjust link lengths?

Just got my rkh swash in the mail (yay!) and I'm just wondering one little thing before I get to installing it.

Should I expect to have to adjust the linkage lengths?

Obviously, I could just go ahead and install and figure it out for myself but I won't have to do that right away so I thouogt I just bounce it off ya'll...


Any tips from those of you that have already made this change are welcome as well...
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Old Dec 20, 2011, 04:11 PM
Look ma, no hands!
1Pilgrim's Avatar
United States, WI, Sheboygan
Joined Aug 2011
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Originally Posted by BattleDude View Post
Mike...Hmmmm...
This interesting... I suppose it could overheat the motor if the motor didn't have enough juice to turn at full RPM. and the pilot just kept hammering the throttle. But usually connectors with that much resistance fail first, causing heat at the connector from arcing.
What do you think guys? Will a bad connector with high resistance cause the main motor to overheat?
Kyle
Ssems to me that higher resistance anywhere in the wiring just means the motor isn't getting all the "juice" it can use. It might show up as loss of power, but I don't see why the motor would overheat even if the pilot gave it more throttle.

But higher than normal resistance is stiill a bad thing that needs to be tracked down and dealt with, right? And the motor itself might be breaking down and becoming more resistive - that could cause it to overheat.
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Last edited by 1Pilgrim; Dec 20, 2011 at 04:19 PM.
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Old Dec 20, 2011, 05:42 PM
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Blackanthem's Avatar
United States, TX, Houston
Joined Aug 2011
630 Posts
Key FOB set up

The camera is attached to the front of the canopy. I tried to estimate the angle that the helicopter hovers at, and counter it.
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Description:

It is attached to the canopy with some Velcro.
I placed some Velcro on the battery tray, and the inside of the canopy. This provides a non slip surface.
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Now this is how I got rid of the Jello effect.
Once the canopy was back on the helicopter, and was attached with the velcro. I used some good clear tape and wrapped it tight from side to side along the bottom of the camera, up around the canopy.
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Description:

This made the camera rock solid, no movement whats so ever.
This is why you may want to use a extra canopy for this.

Using Velcro I moved the battery to the back of the 5-1 for CG.
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Description:

Crude, but it works.

Edit:
Be sure you can get at the buttons when you do this. I have a little screw driver that I use to push the buttons.
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Old Dec 20, 2011, 06:58 PM
NotAnotherMomentLostToSei zures
Chap1012's Avatar
United States, MA, Malden
Joined Mar 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris.S. View Post
Just got my rkh swash in the mail (yay!) and I'm just wondering one little thing before I get to installing it.

Should I expect to have to adjust the linkage lengths?

Obviously, I could just go ahead and install and figure it out for myself but I won't have to do that right away so I thouogt I just bounce it off ya'll...


Any tips from those of you that have already made this change are welcome as well...
I always take pictures before breaking down to add/do something different. This will help you when things go back together

Mike
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Old Dec 20, 2011, 07:31 PM
NotAnotherMomentLostToSei zures
Chap1012's Avatar
United States, MA, Malden
Joined Mar 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BattleDude View Post
Mike...Hmmmm...
This interesting... I suppose it could overheat the motor if the motor didn't have enough juice to turn at full RPM. and the pilot just kept hammering the throttle. But usually connectors with that much resistance fail first, causing heat at the connector from arcing.
What do you think guys? Will a bad connector with high resistance cause the main motor to overheat?
Kyle
Well, here is the set-up of my coax V4. I apologize for going off track but, it's for the good of the order and education. I'll be quick

Note the red wires coming off the 4in1. Motor on left=front motor. Motor on right=rear motor. See how I cut the inline fuse out in the top? That's the rear motor (was running on the hot side). I can't remember if the red wire broke "before" going into the fuse or, coming out of the other side of the fuse then into the motor. What I do know is that I cut it out to dissect it. Me thinks that the red wire was loose "after" it came out from the fuse and into the motor.
Just thinking

Back to our regularly scheduled program

Mike.

EDIT: I told you guys I save "everything."
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Old Dec 20, 2011, 07:59 PM
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United States, CA, Foster City
Joined Nov 2011
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To Chris S. about the RKH swash plate,
Yes mechanical rod adjustments will be necessary. I recommend installing the suppled "vivid" (4mm) ball rods before installing on the heli with a dab of blue (medium) Loctite even if your initial plan is not to use them. The 3mm "medium" ball rods should be already on the swash, leave them be and add the longer ones in the other 2 vacant holes. Visually trim (mechanically) your swash to be level with the ground assuming your landing gear isn't a pair of wet noodles. Unlike the "dog-bones", the servo ball ends have no preferred side so half turns are ok. Once up and hovering, you will probably need to trim out with your transmitter. if it's more than a few beeps, take note of the direction the swash is trimmed to and re-trim it with the linkage balls, repeat as necessary.
BK
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Old Dec 20, 2011, 08:20 PM
NotAnotherMomentLostToSei zures
Chap1012's Avatar
United States, MA, Malden
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Actually the swash plate should be 90* to the main mast as you look at it from all angles. Front, rear, side, etc..

Mike.
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Old Dec 20, 2011, 08:45 PM
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i must have a bad head or something,my swashplate never sits level to the ground =(

lol

pj
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Old Dec 20, 2011, 08:57 PM
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Joined Dec 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris.S. View Post
Just got my rkh swash in the mail (yay!) and I'm just wondering one little thing before I get to installing it.

Should I expect to have to adjust the linkage lengths?

Obviously, I could just go ahead and install and figure it out for myself but I won't have to do that right away so I thouogt I just bounce it off ya'll...


Any tips from those of you that have already made this change are welcome as well...
when i got mine in,the first thing i did was install the longer links. idk if i got a 'one off',but my swashplate had metal shavings around the inside,most likely from screwing in the swash link. wasnt too happy with the quality,but once installed,the heli flew nice. very smooth with stick changes. over-all worth it.


as for adjusting the links,i think once you make any change to your head,your bound to make an adjustment or two. every heli's different

pj
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Old Dec 21, 2011, 04:11 AM
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Padova, Italy
Joined May 2010
37 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackanthem View Post
The camera is attached to the front of the canopy. I tried to estimate the angle that the helicopter hovers at, and counter it.
Attachment 4497031

It is attached to the canopy with some Velcro.
I placed some Velcro on the battery tray, and the inside of the canopy. This provides a non slip surface.
Attachment 4497035
Attachment 4497036

Now this is how I got rid of the Jello effect.
Once the canopy was back on the helicopter, and was attached with the velcro. I used some good clear tape and wrapped it tight from side to side along the bottom of the camera, up around the canopy.
Attachment 4497040

This made the camera rock solid, no movement whats so ever.
This is why you may want to use a extra canopy for this.

Using Velcro I moved the battery to the back of the 5-1 for CG.
Attachment 4497043

Crude, but it works.

Edit:
Be sure you can get at the buttons when you do this. I have a little screw driver that I use to push the buttons.
Thanks for your pictures.
It seems very simple, I'll try to fix my cam under cobra fuselage..
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Old Dec 21, 2011, 11:48 AM
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Kelowna, BC Canada
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Thanks all!
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Old Dec 21, 2011, 05:06 PM
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Blackanthem's Avatar
United States, TX, Houston
Joined Aug 2011
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Spotlight

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Description: 120 SR Spotlight
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Description: 120 SR Spotlight
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Description: 120 SR Spotlight

Not as cool as some of the other light set up's. But I'm getting my light on.
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Old Dec 21, 2011, 05:29 PM
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United States, TX, Houston
Joined Aug 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bulbsrtw View Post
Thanks for your pictures.
It seems very simple, I'll try to fix my cam under cobra fuselage..
From my limited experiments, the tighter you can get the camera to the helicopter = less jello effect. I started of with dampers, thinking that it would eliminate vibration. I found that the helicopter was the most vibration free platform. The slight vibration that the helicopter had, was magnified in my damper. I have another idea for the camera, but it would make the helicopter, full time AP. Hunting for a another 120, to test out my idea.

Edit: I may just stink at making a damper. I call my set up Redneck AP
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