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Old Nov 05, 2011, 03:10 AM
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Somewhere in central Oklahoma
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Originally Posted by wasatchcars View Post
Just to add insult to injury. I just got 5 extra batteries for it I ordered in the mail today.
You'll be glad you have them when you get it back in flyable condition.
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Old Nov 05, 2011, 04:07 AM
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Ipswich, Suffolk, England
Joined Dec 2007
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Originally Posted by Saxguy1000 View Post
So, you are saying that clean connections are the answer, or the better connectivity is the deal? Gold is a better conductor, but are you saying the soldered connection is what is better or the connector to the battery is better?
I am saying that gold plated connector pins are better than tinned.

In my experience, clean is good, which is actually better connectivity
Tinned connector pins oxidise over time, gold plated ones do not.

Standard issue is tinned connector pins on heli and tinned connector pins on LiPo.
Gold plated pins on Lipo connectors reduces the chance of oxidation by at least 50% - maybe LiPo connectors oxidise more readily - remember black negative leads on NiCds ?

Storage and use conditions may also affect this: humidity, temperature etc.
I am not a battery expert, I just know what worked for me.
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Old Nov 05, 2011, 04:19 AM
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Ipswich, Suffolk, England
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cbxer55 View Post
Link to these SUPER batterys? I just went and googled them, and found SQUAT! Bunch of round batterys, no flat batterys. No single cells.
My computer even shows there site as being unsafe to open. I took a chance at that, and found nothing I would even consider using.
Is there a reason for you being so aggressive?
I am only stating what I have experienced in order to offer some constructive advice.

Reason I didn't post a link was I am in the UK, there are countries other than the USA you know.

I Googled for 'intellect 550 lipo' but only found them on UK sites so didn't include any.
But if you insist...

http://www.thmodels.co.uk/intellect-...0sr-1600-p.asp

http://sussex-model-centre.co.uk/shopexd.asp?id=34139
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Old Nov 05, 2011, 04:21 AM
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Ipswich, Suffolk, England
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Originally Posted by Chap1012 View Post
BikerDon, The next time you put a charge on those batts that you are flying out at 8 to 8.5 minutes, check the ma's that are put back into that batt. A 550mah rated batt has a ceiling of 440 ma's put back into that batt (80% rule). If you are exceeding 440ma's put back into that batt, you will need to adjust your fly time down a bit (cell count and other ratings make no difference). Otherwise, you'll risk damaging that pack prematurely and permanently. The 80% rule is very easy to calculate. 550mah pack= 550 X .8= 440ma's. I know this cannot be calculated using the stock Celectra charger but it is possible on a smart charger. I know you're an electronics guy so, I hope I'm not stepping on your toes with this info...Just an FYI in case you were not aware.

https://sites.google.com/site/tjingu...ow-tos/80-rule

Mike.
Thanks Mike - all that is understood.
The flight times I quoted were taking the heli down to LVC cut-off.
I guess I should have mentioned that too

Using my Smart charger just now, after taking a LiPo down to LVC I put back 482mAH.
Just goes to confirm - never take them down to the LVC cut-off.
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Old Nov 05, 2011, 04:34 AM
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Ipswich, Suffolk, England
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Originally Posted by 1Pilgrim View Post
Are you sure about the E-flite contacts? Mine are about 4 months old and they look gold plated.

I used a cheater plug to "clean" the contacts on my older E-flites then topped them off and went flying. Power dropped off about 15 secs into 1st flight; took off again but lost power a minute 30 seconds later. I pulled the batt and found it quite warm. Taking a break to think things over...

btw is there any kind of thermal cutoff in any of these lipos?
Well could be because I am in the UK - ALL E-Flite LiPos here are tinned contacts here.

When I use the cheater plugs - I wipe the contacts several times, just the once rarely, if ever, worked for me.

I am severely under-impressed with all stock E-Flite LiPos - I have replaced them all with other brands eventually. Mostly because E-Flites are usually under-rated and that's why they get so damn hot.

C rating depends on internal resistance of the cell. This internal resistance gets higher with abuse and age so that's why LiPos deteriorate when old and knackered - bit like me really

I guess you could say they have self-thermal-cut-off really.
They get hot when the internal resistance is so high that the current drawn means too much voltage is being dropped across the battery so less is fed to the 5-in-1 which will trigger the LVC (Low Voltage Cut-off).
Sorry that should have said
They get hot due to internal resistance. When the internal resistance is high the current drawn means too much voltage is dropped across the battery so less is fed to the 5-in-1 which will trigger the LVC (Low Voltage Cut-off) too early. Hence when you measure the voltage after the flight (off-load) the voltage appears to be OK.


I am really getting fed up with E-Flite/Blade to be honest, I can see why a lot of people denigrate them - I have been through several tail motors on my 120SR now - they are obviously under-rated too. Horizon Hobby (UK distributors in the UK) realise this too as they replaced the first few FoC for me but eventually stopped doing so saying they are a "consumable item"... WHAT???

It's a shame as they could be such a GREAT heli without these niggles.
Right, feel better now so I'll dismount from my Hobby-Horse.
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Last edited by BikerDon; Nov 05, 2011 at 12:44 PM. Reason: HH comment added
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Old Nov 05, 2011, 04:49 AM
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Ipswich, Suffolk, England
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chap1012 View Post
I use something similar to this >(64-4315 not pictured) to clean the pots of my TX. It might work on batt connectors as well.
http://www.radioshack.com/search/ind...w=64-4315&sr=1

Mike.
Sure will help.

For those of us in the UK I recommend Servisol switch or contact cleaner.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Servisol-cle.../dp/B005NZATBC
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Old Nov 05, 2011, 08:58 AM
mCP-X, mSR-X, DX6i
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United States, WI, Superior
Joined Aug 2011
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Originally Posted by wasatchcars View Post
Seeing it will be AT LEAST a month till I get it back. I have not mailed it yet. I will mail it Monday.

I was thinking about just buying another one (from a different store) so I have something and when I get it back I could just keep it as a second if I like my replacement one or I could just sell it on eBay?

Or should I go with something else?
like a Walkera or Align?

I am new but determined to go on. I will not let this set me back.

Thanks for the info
If you were seriously going to go with another heli in the meantime I would go with the mSR. You've already got a DX6i, so you can get the Bind N Fly version. Sweet little bird for indoor learning, and it comes with a 4-Port charger and 2 batteries. Then you'd have two different Helis in your fleet!
Here's a good review which includes a link for John Salt's e-guide to the mSR and 120SR. The e-guide is definitely worth it and includes a lot of information about programming the DX6i.
http://www.rchelicopterfun.com/blade-msr.html

The new mSR X is coming out soon, but that won't have the self-correcting ability that the mSR and 120SR have since it will be flybarless. It will be a totally different bird and from what I understand, NOT a direct replacement of the mSR.

Good Luck!!
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Old Nov 05, 2011, 11:42 AM
Easy on the Sticks!
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United States, WY, Crowheart
Joined Aug 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wasatchcars View Post
Sorry I did not mean collective pitch.
I meant coaxial helis.
Those little S107s.
I do have a clone T-Rex 450 but no where near ready to thy that yet.


For years I really wanted to get into rc helis.
Thought this was the right choice.

Seeing it will be AT LEAST a month till I get it back. I have not mailed it yet. I will mail it Monday.

I was thinking about just buying another one (from a different store) so I have something and when I get it back I could just keep it as a second if I like my replacement one or I could just sell it on eBay?

Or should I go with something else?
like a Walkera or Align?

I am new but determined to go on. I will not let this set me back.

Thanks for the info
You just got a lemon Bud, it is a great little heli, except for the tail motor.
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Old Nov 05, 2011, 02:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BikerDon View Post
Sure will help.

For those of us in the UK I recommend Servisol switch or contact cleaner.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Servisol-cle.../dp/B005NZATBC
this product has no review yet... might need to try...


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Old Nov 05, 2011, 04:09 PM
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United States, NC, Tryon
Joined Sep 2005
211 Posts
Whats going on with my 120???

I'm a relative heli noobie, had a cx in the past and just got a scout. The scout was/is so much fun that I ran out and bought a Blade 120SR. After 2 batteries I was able to fly it around the living room w/o running into much of anything, but then...
I cant get it to hover w/o it spinning around its yaw axis. Like the rudder isn't as responsive as it should be, by that I mean the tail rotor. I cant see any obvious damage. I even tried centering the rudder trim prior to turning it on per the manual, but no luck. I bought the BNF and am using a "new to me" DX7. It flew well for a while, but what gives? Is this a tail rotor motor issue? When I hold the skids and throttle it up, it seems to respond to rudder, but just not enough when flying.
Help, Please...
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Old Nov 05, 2011, 05:02 PM
MJF
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United States, GA, Perry
Joined Jul 2010
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take off canopy and check all connections are plug in all the way.....and if that dont do it.You may have to adjust on servo arms????? I think....


Im a noob to copters.....just been reading alot
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Old Nov 05, 2011, 05:06 PM
Look ma, no hands!
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United States, WI, Sheboygan
Joined Aug 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BikerDon View Post
Well could be because I am in the UK - ALL E-Flite LiPos here are tinned contacts here.

When I use the cheater plugs - I wipe the contacts several times, just the once rarely, if ever, worked for me.

I am severely under-impressed with all stock E-Flite LiPos - I have replaced them all with other brands eventually. Mostly because E-Flites are usually under-rated and that's why they get so damn hot.

C rating depends on internal resistance of the cell. This internal resistance gets higher with abuse and age so that's why LiPos deteriorate when old and knackered - bit like me really

They get hot due to internal resistance. When the internal resistance is high the current drawn means too much voltage is dropped across the battery so less is fed to the 5-in-1 which will trigger the LVC (Low Voltage Cut-off) too early. Hence when you measure the voltage after the flight (off-load) the voltage appears to be OK.
Thanks, that's a great explanation. I'm something of a skeptic so it took a while for me to come to the same conclusion re E-flite lipos - they're really not worth the money.

I fly with a timer and have never seen the LVC flashing. I have experienced power loss less than a minute into flights with all of my E-flite batteries, even though the meter said they were still almost fully charged. My latest purchase was 4 Hyperion 550's; still breaking them in but so far they are performing well.
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Old Nov 05, 2011, 05:42 PM
Fly low or fly home.
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United States, PA, Dover
Joined Aug 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1Pilgrim View Post
Thanks, that's a great explanation. I'm something of a skeptic so it took a while for me to come to the same conclusion re E-flite lipos - they're really not worth the money.

I fly with a timer and have never seen the LVC flashing. I have experienced power loss less than a minute into flights with all of my E-flite batteries, even though the meter said they were still almost fully charged. My latest purchase was 4 Hyperion 550's; still breaking them in but so far they are performing well.
Ok im new to this hobby and what do you mean by breaking your batterys in can you or some please explain what im sopost to do when i get any new lipo. Because im soon going to be buying 3cells
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Old Nov 05, 2011, 05:50 PM
MJF
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went ahead a pulled tha trigger on blade 120 sr.....picking up tomorrow....
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Old Nov 05, 2011, 06:03 PM
Look ma, no hands!
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United States, WI, Sheboygan
Joined Aug 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stoned doggie View Post
Ok im new to this hobby and what do you mean by breaking your batterys in can you or some please explain what im sopost to do when i get any new lipo. Because im soon going to be buying 3cells
Sorry, I've only used single-cell batts; you may want to start by checking out the forum devoted to batteries and chargers.

Anyway, this is the breakin process I'm following as recommended by the experts on this thread. Right now I'm discharging my new 550Ah batts down to 3.85V - roughly halfway - by flying for 3.5 minutes for the first four cycles; this means I'll "put back" about 250mAh after each flight. Then, following the 80% rule I'll gradually increase flight times until I'm putting back no more than 440mAh, or 80% of the total capacity.
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