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I downloaded the .pdf (that's the only way you can get it) from www.rchelicopterfun.com Good flying! Jon |
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I have one right over my work area.![]() A smoke detector! Protect your family Guys...Please. Smoke detectors do save lives ![]() PS: Never, ever, leave your lipo (NO MATTER WHAT SIZE!!!!) charge over night or without supervision. https://sites.google.com/site/tjingu...arging-how-tos Mike. @BlackAnthem , ..Don't get me going again with the HP6DSM dip switches ![]()
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i had posted a write up in the electric boat section on everything you need to know about lipos maby this will help . they made it a sticky there if you want i can make one here and maby it could get sticky status .
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1066588 |
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Guys, all you'd have to do is set something up to remove one part of the fire triangle. Heat ,fuel and oxygen. You need all three components to start a fire:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fire_triangle I charge my batts on a ceramic 6"X6" tile. In this case, I've removed the "fuel." Take the same scenario charging your batt on a wooden platform of any type. You now introduced "Fuel" BUT "Heat" is removed via ceramic tile. These lipo charging bags you see for sale!?!? Those are nice for removing "Fuel" and "Oxygen" but, lets not forget "Heat" if it gets to that point. You need "sufficient" heat to start a fire. I sometimes wish I had the room to set up a charging station like Ron (A Rednek) and his crock pot. He eliminated Oxygen and fuel. The heat maybe there but nill/ non existent....it needs oxygen and fuel to get going. Most excellent Ron ![]() Fire Fighting 101 ![]() ![]() Mike. |
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Joined Aug 2007
115 Posts
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My nav lights are mounted on a plastic rod that extends acroos the main frame between the motor and main shaft. Lights on sections of the heli that are removable have simple connectors made from pieces of dip headers and ribbon cable connectors. The lights on the canopy and the lights on the tail have connectors. One header and one connector will make several sets. If you look at the upper right of the first picture in that post you can see one of these connectors. You can also see the post attached to the 5n1 cover that holds the upper strobe light. Sticking out of the 5n1 cover you can also see the fiber optic piece that I put over the light status light for the main board. This allows the light to be seen from a much wider angle than the original configuration. I did have to cut the wires from the light controller board to the LEDs. The wire for the LEDs is just enamel covered motor winding wire and is colored so keeping the polarity straight is easy. When you go to connect the wires again just scrape off the enamel with an Xacto blade. A dab of thick CA insulates the joint. Where additional wiring was needed I used 30 Ga wire wrap wire. The light controller board is attached above the battery holder with servo tape. |
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Joined Aug 2007
115 Posts
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Between the weight of the camera and the weight of the larger battery (1300mah) I use, the heli response is more sluggish. But the extra weight makes the heli more stable when shooting video (and better in a breeze). With the camera attached I can fly for 8-9 minutes. |
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