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Old Sep 03, 2011, 11:27 AM
NotAnotherMomentLostToSei zures
Chap1012's Avatar
United States, MA, Malden
Joined Mar 2008
11,231 Posts
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Originally Posted by okstumbler View Post
Just picked up a new set of main blades for my 120SR and they are causing a ton of vibration spinning up on the table. My original blades have some chips and divots and when I put them back on the vibration goes away.

Should I try to balance / track the blades myself, or try to return to LHS and try a different set?
Click on my user name to see my blog. There is a tutorial on blade balancing. You don't really need to use Dixie cups. Full cans of soda or beer (using the edge/lip) will do the job. I hope you have an extra set of blade grips. Balancing your blades is very important IMHO. They will track better, give you less vibration= better flying and no wear and tear on the motor and bearings.

Mike.
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Old Sep 03, 2011, 11:32 AM
Look ma, no hands!
1Pilgrim's Avatar
United States, WI, Sheboygan
Joined Aug 2011
1,252 Posts
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Originally Posted by Chap1012 View Post
As Lee, pointed out already, thread loc is used metal to metal. BUT, what if you have a screw going through plastic and "must" be secured to prevent that screw from backing off? What I have been using for some time now is Sally Hansen Hard as Nails (clear). I hate to keep bringing my V4 up but, that's exactly what I used to use it on. The bottom rotor. A metal screw going through plastic into a metal shaft. I would dab some Sally Hansen across the screw and plastic. JUST DON'T get it on the rubber grommets...OR anything rubber. This will turn the rubber hard and will start cracking and disintegrate. It holds great and releases when you want. While I'm on the subject. If you have a screw that is treated with thread loc and is very tough trying to back it out, try a soldering iron with a pointy tip to heat the head of the screw to loosen up and soften the thread loc. Just an FYI.

Mike.
My son had zip tied his motor to the frame so I had him check the play in the gears - sure enough they were binding. Gonna try Sally Hansen's mod. Tell me, Mike - do you get any funny looks when you go in to buy the stuff?
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Old Sep 03, 2011, 11:32 AM
NotAnotherMomentLostToSei zures
Chap1012's Avatar
United States, MA, Malden
Joined Mar 2008
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Originally Posted by 1Pilgrim View Post
My plug wire is routed the same way; it comes out forward of the landing skid strut so I don't think it can wander back into the moving parts. How do you route yours?
Pretty sure they all come like that from the factory. dmcanuk must have had his canopy off working on his heli and didn't realize the battery connecting wire is wrapped once around the landing skid strut.

Mike.
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Old Sep 03, 2011, 11:34 AM
NotAnotherMomentLostToSei zures
Chap1012's Avatar
United States, MA, Malden
Joined Mar 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1Pilgrim View Post
My son had zip tied his motor to the frame so I had him check the play in the gears - sure enough they were binding. Gonna try Sally Hansen's mod. Tell me, Mike - do you get any funny looks when you go in to buy the stuff?
You silly goose...I send my wife in for it

Mike.
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Old Sep 03, 2011, 11:38 AM
Easy on the Sticks!
BattleDude's Avatar
United States, WY, Crowheart
Joined Aug 2011
3,261 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by okstumbler View Post
Just picked up a new set of main blades for my 120SR and they are causing a ton of vibration spinning up on the table. My original blades have some chips and divots and when I put them back on the vibration goes away.

Should I try to balance / track the blades myself, or try to return to LHS and try a different set?
Stumbler, you can do either one of those options but...
These blades are manufactured under loose tolerances making it 50/50 as to whether or not you will get another unbalanced set.
It is best to learn to track/balance the setup yourself.
But for now, fly with the chipped blades that r smooth. Vibrations r bad bad things resulting in pre-mature wear.
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Old Sep 03, 2011, 11:42 AM
Easy on the Sticks!
BattleDude's Avatar
United States, WY, Crowheart
Joined Aug 2011
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Originally Posted by Chap1012 View Post
Pretty sure they all come like that from the factory. dmcanuk must have had his canopy off working on his heli and didn't realize the battery connecting wire is wrapped once around the landing skid strut.

Mike.
Oh Mike, u silly goose! We all know the wire is wrapped around the carbon fiber canopy mount rod, not the landing gear strut...
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Old Sep 03, 2011, 11:42 AM
Look ma, no hands!
1Pilgrim's Avatar
United States, WI, Sheboygan
Joined Aug 2011
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Originally Posted by Chap1012 View Post
Pretty sure they all come like that from the factory. dmcanuk must have had his canopy off working on his heli and didn't realize the battery connecting wire is wrapped once around the landing skid strut.

Mike.
I had edited my earlier reply but not fast enough - I just routed my wire over the top of the canopy rod and out in front of the skid strut. It looks pretty safe now.
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Old Sep 03, 2011, 11:49 AM
Look ma, no hands!
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United States, WI, Sheboygan
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Too tight

Nope, didn't work - when I go over the canopy rod there's too much tension on the wire. Routing the wire in front of the skid strut seems to work best for me.

Delete all of the above - there's plenty of slack left when routed over the rod and outside the strut. Any concern re the wire touching the motor?
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Last edited by 1Pilgrim; Sep 03, 2011 at 11:55 AM.
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Old Sep 03, 2011, 11:53 AM
Registered User
Joined Aug 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by okstumbler View Post
Just picked up a new set of main blades for my 120SR and they are causing a ton of vibration spinning up on the table. My original blades have some chips and divots and when I put them back on the vibration goes away.

Should I try to balance / track the blades myself, or try to return to LHS and try a different set?
Blade balance was the problem - followed Chap's guide and they were WAAY off. Now they are perfectly balanced and all the wobbling and vibration is gone. Thanks Chap!

BTW, used 220 grit sand paper and sanded the under side of the heavier blade until they were balanced.
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Old Sep 03, 2011, 01:39 PM
CRASH, FIX, REPEAT
helibard's Avatar
United States, KY, Bardstown
Joined Apr 2010
930 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1Pilgrim View Post
My son had zip tied his motor to the frame so I had him check the play in the gears - sure enough they were binding. Gonna try Sally Hansen's mod. Tell me, Mike - do you get any funny looks when you go in to buy the stuff?
I've had mine zip tied for months, just not too tight. Finally removed the plastic tie and went with floral wire. So far, no binding but I'll keep my eye on it.
Jim
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Old Sep 03, 2011, 02:13 PM
Look ma, no hands!
1Pilgrim's Avatar
United States, WI, Sheboygan
Joined Aug 2011
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Originally Posted by helibard View Post
I've had mine zip tied for months, just not too tight. Finally removed the plastic tie and went with floral wire. So far, no binding but I'll keep my eye on it.
Jim
If there was a way to put a very thin shim between the motor and the frame then the zip tie could be tightened down securely while maintaining the correct amount of contact between the gears. The shim would have to be safe to use there - not aluminum foil, not any kind of paper...

The people who maintain cnc machinery use some kind of plastic or nylon shims that are very thin - .005" to .030". I'll see if I can reach out to someone at my old company.

Jon
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Old Sep 03, 2011, 02:19 PM
Look ma, no hands!
1Pilgrim's Avatar
United States, WI, Sheboygan
Joined Aug 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1Pilgrim View Post
If there was a way to put a very thin shim between the motor and the frame then the zip tie could be tightened down securely while maintaining the correct amount of contact between the gears. The shim would have to be safe to use there - not aluminum foil, not any kind of paper...

The people who maintain cnc machinery use some kind of plastic or nylon shims that are very thin - .005" to .030". I'll see if I can reach out to someone at my old company.

Jon
Hey, what about mylar? It's .010" to .020" thick, right?
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Old Sep 03, 2011, 03:25 PM
Crashing well so far
Thunder2661's Avatar
United Kingdom, England, North York
Joined Jun 2011
124 Posts
Hi all i just did the flybar mod

2mm carbon fiber rod glued to the gap on the under side of the flybar

it worked wonders for me

I used some old CopterX 250 Tail Support Rods

These are the same
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...pport_Rod.html

i also made the tail boom out of them for the 120 SR

Theres just enough to do both mods with one set of 250 Tail Support Rod
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Old Sep 03, 2011, 03:34 PM
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Joined Mar 2011
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Can you post pics of the mods and step by step directions thanks
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Old Sep 03, 2011, 04:13 PM
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United States, TX, Houston
Joined Aug 2011
637 Posts
If I am looking at the same thing... I see where the motor meets (fits) a brace. Looks like the motor can "flex" I put a dab of hot glue where the motor meets the brace. Due to Topical storm Lee I am grounded for test flights. But it looks like I may have fixed something. ?
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