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Old Jan 08, 2013, 03:16 PM
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United States, CO, Longmont
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Weird, it says that video is block in my country. CO and WI are still in the same country right?
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 03:19 PM
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Rich Knapp's Avatar
United States, WI, Appleton
Joined Jul 2012
262 Posts
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Originally Posted by dferrey View Post
Weird, it says that video is block in my country. CO and WI are still in the same country right?
lol Ya, some dumb Y/T update were I had to click a approve button. Should be able to see it now.

EDIT: I'll make one with no music and replace the one in the post.
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 04:40 PM
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United States, WI, Appleton
Joined Jul 2012
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No music. Thanks to You Tube.

Sky Dancing inside post workout. (7 min 55 sec)
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 04:40 PM
Rockin' & Flyin'
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Virginia Beach
Joined Dec 2009
2,851 Posts
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Originally Posted by dferrey View Post
I'm determined to become an RC Heli's Pilot if it kills me, wrecks my house/garage, takes away 4 or 5 of my cats lives and bleeds my 401k. Ok, maybe that's a bit of an exaggeration.
You don't have to apologize... We've all bled our 401k. Pretty much, we're all homeless on this forum.

Quote:
I started with a v911 (and will continue) and today purchased a Blade 120 SR RTF. Brought it home, did a bit of trimming and broke the flybar. Sigh.

I'll head back to hobbytown to get a new flybar later but I'd like to get others thoughts on other parts I should be prepared to replace. I was thinking of picking up some "Turnigy nano-tech 600mah 35C Batteries Lipo"
Turnigy's are good. I also have gotten a year's worth of good flights out of Tigers brand--and they are real cheap. For parts, I'd get one or more of every part that goes to the main rotor assembly and the main shaft. Also, a spare set of skids or two.
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 04:59 PM
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Virginia Beach
Joined Dec 2009
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I have to admit, I haven't seen all the problems with the SR 120--yet. I landed hard in a softball field a couple months ago, right into the sand infield. My heli (#3) has not worked since because it--what I thought--was full of sand. Today, I got the alcohol out to scrub down the board and the servos which were not working. I had hit the servos with several different sprays to try to get the gunk out, but nothing was working. So, I completely tore it all down and used Q-tips and cleaned it up as good as my guns after the range. My servos still wouldn't work, so I took them off the board and started to clean them. To my surprise, the one servo wasn't operating (first guess) because I found a rock stuck in it (see photo). Turns out, it wasn't sand, it was a piece of foam! So, it made me wonder how long that had been in there. I slapped the servos back on and tried it again.
Name: servo cleaning.jpg
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Description: Foam stuck in the servo.

The servos still didn't work. They kept binding. I then had to squint really hard and start to try figure out why. Turns out: the gears on the screws both had one or two of the spaces between teeth with something stuck between them. I think this was actually sand wedged in between. I cleaned it out, and sure enough, the servos work now.

There is a rough TBE going on, so I've got more work to do (I'll follow my own method on my blog.) What amazed me the most is not just the above but what I thought next...

How many guys have given up this hobby because of seemingly impossible problems with their heli? The key to staying in the hobby is pure persistence. You have to be absolutely sure that you will find the problem and make the thing work again. Patience is worth a premium price. Every heli can have a new life no matter how bad it's messed up!
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 05:49 PM
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United States, CO, Longmont
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Originally Posted by Saxguy1000 View Post
You don't have to apologize... We've all bled our 401k. Pretty much, we're all homeless on this forum.



Turnigy's are good. I also have gotten a year's worth of good flights out of Tigers brand--and they are real cheap. For parts, I'd get one or more of every part that goes to the main rotor assembly and the main shaft. Also, a spare set of skids or two.
Thanks, I ordered 4 of them. I also got and installed the replacement flybar. My goal is to figure out the trim and flying thing before I break to much. The learn curve for this old guy is steep.
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 07:48 PM
Heli's rule!
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Midvale, Utah, USA
Joined Mar 2005
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Originally Posted by Saxguy1000 View Post
The servos still didn't work. They kept binding. I then had to squint really hard and start to try figure out why. Turns out: the gears on the screws both had one or two of the spaces between teeth with something stuck between them. I think this was actually sand wedged in between. I cleaned it out, and sure enough, the servos work now.
Been there! I had something wedged in the gears on my 120 that I couldn't even see... not the screw part, it was in the main gear that meshes with the pinion on the servo motor. I could tell it was there because the gear would stick in that spot.... I had a hobbyknife handy so used that try to clear it out.... Heard a tiny "click" as whatever it was hit the floor and all was good again..... must have been a tiny white rock.... crazy.
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 08:14 PM
Look ma, no hands!
1Pilgrim's Avatar
United States, WI, Sheboygan
Joined Aug 2011
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Originally Posted by dacaur View Post
3.6v resting voltage means you are at basically 0% capacity.... so 3.55 is bad... 3.78 is about 30%, which jives with the rated capacity and what you charged the others....

I have found this to be pretty accurate.

4.20v = 100%
4.03v = 76%
3.86v = 52%
3.83v = 42%
3.79v = 30%
3.70v = 11%
3.6v = 0%
I plotted mAh vs post-flight voltage for about 45 flights on each of my four Hyperion 550mAh batteries. They are extremely consistent. Here is the equation derived from all those flights:

Note: "X2" is "X squared"

X = post-flight voltage; Y = mAh "put back"

Y = (-1822.8X2) + (12346X) - 20326

By plugging in your post flight voltage you should be able to predict roughly how much "juice" you are able to put back.

I would appreciate hearing how accurately the equation predicts your battery's performance.

Edit: added parentheses.
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 08:18 PM
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Saxguy1000's Avatar
Virginia Beach
Joined Dec 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1Pilgrim View Post
I plotted mAh vs post-flight voltage for about 45 flights on each of my four Hyperion 550mAh batteries. They are extremely consistent. Here is the equation derived from all those flights:

Note: "X2" is "X squared"

X = post-flight voltage; Y = mAh "put back"

Y = -1822.8X2 + 12346X - 20326

By plugging in your post flight voltage you should be able to predict roughly how much "juice" you are able to put back.

I would appreciate hearing how accurately the equation predicts your battery's performance.
Is that "negative"1822.8 "times" x2 plus 12346 "times" x "minus" 20326?
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 08:35 PM
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1Pilgrim's Avatar
United States, WI, Sheboygan
Joined Aug 2011
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Originally Posted by Saxguy1000 View Post
Is that "negative"1822.8 "times" x2 plus 12346 "times" x "minus" 20326?
Yes - I added parens to clarify. When I ran the equation for all my flights I had an average difference of 3 mAh from actual; range was max +34, min -31.
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 08:46 PM
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Virginia Beach
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1Pilgrim View Post
Yes - I added parens to clarify. When I ran the equation for all my flights I had an average difference of 3 mAh from actual.
I plugged that into my Excel chart, but with a voltage of 3.85, my result for mAh is 13170.54? Is my Excel input off?
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 08:52 PM
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United States, WI, Sheboygan
Joined Aug 2011
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Originally Posted by Saxguy1000 View Post
I plugged that into my Excel chart, but with a voltage of 3.85, my result for mAh is 13170.54? Is my Excel input off?
Must be - what was your actual mAh put back? The equation shows 188.
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 08:55 PM
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Virginia Beach
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Originally Posted by 1Pilgrim View Post
Must be - what was your actual mAh put back? The equation shows 188.
I was just trying to get the formula straight. Now that I know the answer, I'll work backwards and fix the math. I suppose I could just do the math, but then I'd ruin my reputation for being bassackwards.
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 08:55 PM
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United States, WI, Sheboygan
Joined Aug 2011
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Gotta go - wife wants the pc. Happy wife, happy life!
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Old Jan 08, 2013, 09:01 PM
Scout CX | mCX2 | mSR | 120SR
North_of_49's Avatar
Canada, AB, Edmonton
Joined Dec 2011
6,965 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by dacaur View Post
Been there! I had something wedged in the gears on my 120 that I couldn't even see... not the screw part, it was in the main gear that meshes with the pinion on the servo motor. I could tell it was there because the gear would stick in that spot.... I had a hobbyknife handy so used that try to clear it out.... Heard a tiny "click" as whatever it was hit the floor and all was good again..... must have been a tiny white rock.... crazy.
same...

Developed a clicking sound immediately after a hard brush with the ground. Took it inside but couldn't see anything at first but eventually saw a microscopic piece of something deep between 2 spur gear teeth which I then picked out with a dental pick... or so I thought. Put it back in the air and still heard the click. Second try got rid of it Was a good learning experience, I knew immediately what to look for when it happened on my Losi buggy... sure enough... same thing. Doesn't take much.
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