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Old Oct 13, 2012, 05:27 PM
Chesapeake Bay RC Club
Gary Hoorn's Avatar
USA, MD, Annapolis
Joined Feb 2005
4,935 Posts
Couldn't see too much in the video about the heli in the tree but being a father the rest was hilarious! Just proves once again that a man is never a hero in his own home Order those links. Check that all the links are on correctly from the servos to the swash etc. Also make sure you don't have a servo going bad.
Gary
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Old Oct 13, 2012, 05:32 PM
USAF Retired - 1968-1988
Jake8131's Avatar
United States, IL, Mascoutah
Joined Dec 2010
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[QUOTE=shahram72;22992078]OK, I still need help. My 120 SR dive bombs to the right when I fly fortward. It banks hard to the right and goes downward. You guys said you needed a video. Well I FINALLY had a chance to make one, my 8 year old son with the camera, and it was a fiasco to say the least. I got the sun in my eyes and put it in a tree. When I got it out, one of the flybar to blade links was missing, so I could not redo the video. I hate to order a link for a heli that can't fly. This heli is dead simple like a solo pro, the flybar is perfect, can't imagine what is up. It goes in the direction the swash tilts, being a 45 degree swashplate. I have no mixing on my Tx, it is in heli mode and when I give it elevator, only that servo moves. The video is not much help but you can kinda see it do it at :08. The rest of the video is funny for those of you who have kids.Getting it stuck in a tree, my little girl calls me a big monkey when I try to shake the limbs, my wife yelling at her to get out of the street, and my hyperactive boy filming it all. Priceless...


If you are using a DX6i or better, try this mix works for me.

MIX1

Elev -> AILE ACT
RATE L 0% R -65%
SW:ON TRIM: INH

MIX2
INH
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Old Oct 14, 2012, 05:35 AM
Registered User
United Kingdom, England, Kent
Joined Sep 2012
454 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jake8131 View Post
As my daddy once said:


IF IT AINT BROKE, DON'T FIX IT!!!!
Mine was most definitely broke. But it was just a connector. So next time I will hunt down a connector or make one or something instead of soldering into the board. As I said before. The soldering had been working until very recently, but I think I have over done it this time.
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Old Oct 14, 2012, 05:40 AM
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United Kingdom, England, Kent
Joined Sep 2012
454 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jake8131 View Post
SR120FAN,

Some advice when you get your new 5n1:



I will try my best but no promises. It just seemed the most logical thing to do.

Hopefully in the future with no indoor flying. Anything that breaks can just be replaced and connected back as god/blade intended.

I haven't attempted anything today. I need a break from helis(especially non working ones that are mocking me and going to spend today doing something semi-productive (Homework and forum viewing) Once all that is done I will take off all the excess solder off my board as I finally found that solder sucker device thing and make it all pretty before I butcher it for the nth time.

If that fails I will bag up all the parts that work and keep them as spares and put it down to experience.

I'm also going to seriously check out phoenix 4.0 as that does look so awesome and if it works with the tx im getting tomorrow I might buy it there and then or it could be a Christmas present from someone. (all this after the homework of course)
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Old Oct 14, 2012, 05:48 AM
Registered User
United Kingdom, England, Kent
Joined Sep 2012
454 Posts
[QUOTE=Jake8131;22992212]
Quote:
Originally Posted by shahram72 View Post
OK, I still need help. My 120 SR dive bombs to the right when I fly fortward. It banks hard to the right and goes downward. You guys said you needed a video. Well I FINALLY had a chance to make one, my 8 year old son with the camera, and it was a fiasco to say the least. I got the sun in my eyes and put it in a tree. When I got it out, one of the flybar to blade links was missing, so I could not redo the video. I hate to order a link for a heli that can't fly. This heli is dead simple like a solo pro, the flybar is perfect, can't imagine what is up. It goes in the direction the swash tilts, being a 45 degree swashplate. I have no mixing on my Tx, it is in heli mode and when I give it elevator, only that servo moves. The video is not much help but you can kinda see it do it at :08. The rest of the video is funny for those of you who have kids.Getting it stuck in a tree, my little girl calls me a big monkey when I try to shake the limbs, my wife yelling at her to get out of the street, and my hyperactive boy filming it all. Priceless...


If you are using a DX6i or better, try this mix works for me.

MIX1

Elev -> AILE ACT
RATE L 0% R -65%
SW:ON TRIM: INH

MIX2
INH
Has one of the leads from one of your servos become detached from the board? Does the servo work on the ground?

I'm really not qualified to give advice. In fact I'm probably the last person that should be suggesting things. But when it comes to detached leads and the need to solder. Something just gets the better of me lol
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Old Oct 14, 2012, 10:23 AM
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United States, SC, Irmo
Joined Sep 2011
4,755 Posts
It works great on the ground. It's something in the geometry that makes it bank hard right in forward flight. I will try the mix suggested but this heli should NOT need a mix to fly. Maybe something is binding in the swash under forward flight. Need to hold it in my hand and power it up hard. Of course it may act normal held still. Might be another funny video!!!
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Old Oct 14, 2012, 11:32 AM
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Kelowna, BC Canada
Joined Nov 2010
270 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by shahram72 View Post
OK, I still need help. My 120 SR dive bombs to the right when I fly fortward. It banks hard to the right and goes downward. You guys said you needed a video. Well I FINALLY had a chance to make one, my 8 year old son with the camera, and it was a fiasco to say the least. I got the sun in my eyes and put it in a tree. When I got it out, one of the flybar to blade links was missing, so I could not redo the video. I hate to order a link for a heli that can't fly. This heli is dead simple like a solo pro, the flybar is perfect, can't imagine what is up. It goes in the direction the swash tilts, being a 45 degree swashplate. I have no mixing on my Tx, it is in heli mode and when I give it elevator, only that servo moves. The video is not much help but you can kinda see it do it at :08. The rest of the video is funny for those of you who have kids.Getting it stuck in a tree, my little girl calls me a big monkey when I try to shake the limbs, my wife yelling at her to get out of the street, and my hyperactive boy filming it all. Priceless...


Quote:
Originally Posted by shahram72 View Post
It works great on the ground. It's something in the geometry that makes it bank hard right in forward flight. I will try the mix suggested but this heli should NOT need a mix to fly. Maybe something is binding in the swash under forward flight. Need to hold it in my hand and power it up hard. Of course it may act normal held still. Might be another funny video!!!
I'm going to guess that you're a relatively new pilot? Excuse me if I'm off on that, it's just a guess.

This issue comes up repeatedly and it's very rarely actually something wrong with the machine.

What you are seeing is the normal tendency of fixed pitch heli's. I don't think there's anything wrong with your bird. I think you may be getting frustrated at the learning curve and consequently you mihght be over-thinking the mechanics of what's happening.

With a bit of practice your fingers will learn to compensate naturally. You're right, you shouldn't (and you don't) need a mix to fly this bird.

What Tx are you using? The RTF Tx these come with is brutal for actually trying to fly a helicopter, you need something with full size sticks, not the silly little ps3 style unit. I recommend a DX4e(Spektrum), DX5e(Spektrum), LP5DSM (Blade-comes with the CX2), or HP6DSM (Blade comes with CP Pro and some others) as some of the more affordable units; you can also go with something programmable like a DX6i or higher.

Be patient, keep practicing.

I hope I sound helpful, and not like a jerk.

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Old Oct 14, 2012, 12:10 PM
Scout CX | mCX2 | mSR | 120SR
North_of_49's Avatar
Canada, AB, Edmonton
Joined Dec 2011
7,299 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by SR120 fan View Post
also can anyone point me in the direction of a photo of a 120SR computer board with all the wiring connections to the servos and rear motor. i stupidly didnt take a photo before i started this calamitous adventurel. one component burnt out and was removed. to me this means the board is screwed.

i was also wiring everything into tne back but im going to try and wire them how they should be to the fromt.

i know im clutching at straws but i do have another coming from the states and a MCX2 here but can't touch for 20 days so things aren't so bad but i would really like to know where i went wrong.

if anyonther has the time would they be kind enough to take a photo front and back of the board showing where each coloured wired get soldered to. remember i have no connectors and everything is soldered.

i know its a lot to ask but would be so grateful.

im going to get me a modelling soldering iron today or order one online
I haven't read the next 2 pages so most of this has probably been answered already, but...

I'm betting you fried a MOSFET, they can be replaced for a buck or two but if you're having issues soldering stuff maybe that's not the best option.

Sometimes Blade's color coding for polarity of stuff (like battery leads) is the opposite of what you'd expect so you have to take note of stuff before you unsolder it or, like you said, look at pictures of other ones.

I think I took photos of my board when I was showing the guys here a fried MOSFET on mine (bought it used and already defective but got it on the cheap). I'll read the next 2 pages to see if anyone already posted some for you.

The 25w blue handle "professional" Weller iron and ST-7 precision tip I mentioned in the post on my blog about replacing the S300 servo (I know you've seen it) are great and I highly recommend them. Affordable and tips are interchangeable. EDIT: sorry, it was in a post I made about soldering the motor connectors directly to the board on my mSR... it's not on my Blog.

Weller WP25 iron
Weller ST7 tip


use flux!

... I use non-corrosive stuff that comes in a pen applicator (doesn't even need to be cleaned off, it has no acid in it)... like this one...

http://www.mgchemicals.com/products/...in-flux-835-p/
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Old Oct 14, 2012, 12:34 PM
Easy on the Sticks!
BattleDude's Avatar
United States, WY, Crowheart
Joined Aug 2011
3,684 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by shahram72 View Post
OK, took my 120 SR out front today with a little more room. I think I have some flybar issues although the flybar does not appear bent or damaged, and the links are all non adjustable, so I don't know what to do. It holds a hover with some mild TBE, but put her into FFF, and she banks hard right and then reverse! It's like the TBE amplifies greatly under movement. God I swear this is the last flybar heli I will buy! I am struggling to keep it going in a straightline and not crash. A newbie would have wrecked for sure. I tried several times and then gave up mid pack. I'm sitting here looking at the thing and it's dead simple. like my solo pro V2, not much here to adjust. I want it to fly like I see in those vids FFF and banked turns. Sometimes I feel like I am going to have to buy an expensive $600 RTF to get a heli that actually flies nice. I am always fighting the equipment or not able to set it up right. I have some skill now with my Blade MQX flying at speed. I want a heli that flies like THAT!
Hi Shahram,
I watched your video, and IMHO that 120 flies just like all 11 of the 120SR's that I have had the oppurtunity to fly.

I believe what Chris is saying is true, it is the natural tendancy of FP helis to pull to the right. It is the same reason that it is harder to turn the heli in a RH circle, than a left hand circle.

A pilot does not have to use mix, as many just learn to compensate, like me. However it is proven by pilots like Jake and SaxGuy, that using a mix to compensate does work. It is a matter of personal pilot preference

I see no TBE at all in your vid. TBE is uncontrollable, and when a heli has it, you know it right away. What I am seeing in your vid is the pendulum affect, and it is controllable when a pilot learns to compensate for it. Compensating for pendulum, almost has to be done with anticipation that the heli is going to move that way and move the sticks before it occurs. Pendulum is compounded in a light breeze, by the pilot over-correcting. If you could fly your bird in a gym, with no breeze at all, you would be able to see better what I am talking about.

I don't see anything resembling the "reverse" that you mention? Can you show us that one, as that is the only thing that does not sound normal with your bird.

What you said is true about flybar helis, (never wanting to own one again) especially 45 degree bars. More than likely the reason they are getting away from flybars with FP and CP. IMHO, I think a FBL heli would be more suited to your flying style.

We will never see a FP or CP heli that flies like a Quad, they are two totally different breeds of cat.

I have always said the perfect place to fly the 120SR would be in a large gym, and I still think that is true. It is a whole different bird in zero wind, and much more fun.

BD
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Old Oct 14, 2012, 01:31 PM
Epilepsy Awareness Month
Chap1012's Avatar
United States, MA, Malden
Joined Mar 2008
11,672 Posts
Hi shahram72, I too watched your video and to be completely honest I can't make heads or tails out of it. It was a cute vid though thanks to the kids. They sounded very excited....too funny

Mike.
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Old Oct 14, 2012, 03:01 PM
Registered User
United States, SC, Irmo
Joined Sep 2011
4,755 Posts
Yeah, the video does not show much. I am a beginner to intermediate pilot. I can fly CP and other non stabilizing helis. I can do coordinated banked turns. I also fly small to medium size airplanes and can do simple loops and rolls. All the other FP's I have may pull a bit but this one really takes a dive, more than can be compensated for. If it's how it is, it's really a horrible heli. I am using a DX6i. I really need to quit wasting my time with these FP helis. I already have a Nano CP on order and can't wait to fly it. My Solo Pro 100 is waiting on parts.


I have new blades and tail, and a new flybar and links on order, but I don't think they are going to make any affect. Got a feeling this thing will be for sale cheap soon.
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Old Oct 14, 2012, 03:07 PM
Scout CX | mCX2 | mSR | 120SR
North_of_49's Avatar
Canada, AB, Edmonton
Joined Dec 2011
7,299 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by shahram72 View Post
...

All the other FP's I have may pull a bit but this one really takes a dive, more than can be compensated for. If it's how it is, it's really a horrible heli.

...
That doesn't sound right or normal.
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Old Oct 14, 2012, 04:07 PM
Registered User
United Kingdom, England, Kent
Joined Sep 2012
454 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by North_of_49 View Post
I haven't read the next 2 pages so most of this has probably been answered already, but...

I'm betting you fried a MOSFET, they can be replaced for a buck or two but if you're having issues soldering stuff maybe that's not the best option.

Sometimes Blade's color coding for polarity of stuff (like battery leads) is the opposite of what you'd expect so you have to take note of stuff before you unsolder it or, like you said, look at pictures of other ones.

I think I took photos of my board when I was showing the guys here a fried MOSFET on mine (bought it used and already defective but got it on the cheap). I'll read the next 2 pages to see if anyone already posted some for you.

The 25w blue handle "professional" Weller iron and ST-7 precision tip I mentioned in the post on my blog about replacing the S300 servo (I know you've seen it) are great and I highly recommend them. Affordable and tips are interchangeable. EDIT: sorry, it was in a post I made about soldering the motor connectors directly to the board on my mSR... it's not on my Blog.

Weller WP25 iron
Weller ST7 tip


use flux!

... I use non-corrosive stuff that comes in a pen applicator (doesn't even need to be cleaned off, it has no acid in it)... like this one...

http://www.mgchemicals.com/products/...in-flux-835-p/
Thanks for the tip on the soldering iron. What burnt out could very much be a MOSFET by the look of pictures on the net. I would have no idea where to get a replacement or what size it is. Resoldering it is probably a bit above me even with a proper soldering iron.

Maybe a silly question but is the board useless without it?

If it is then I will take it to my local hobby shop or even give a few a ring to
see what they say and if they quote me prices anywhere near half of what a new board costs then it will be a thanks but no thanks.

I'm still hoping one will pop up on ebay. It's only a matter of time. NO BIDDING IF ONE DOES

I'm not too bothered I will use mine for spares and there are plenty of those and the one BD is sending me will be treated with the utmost respect
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Old Oct 14, 2012, 08:18 PM
USAF Retired - 1968-1988
Jake8131's Avatar
United States, IL, Mascoutah
Joined Dec 2010
3,325 Posts
If you mangled the board up yourself, there is probably no recover for it...
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Old Oct 14, 2012, 08:52 PM
Scout CX | mCX2 | mSR | 120SR
North_of_49's Avatar
Canada, AB, Edmonton
Joined Dec 2011
7,299 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by SR120 fan View Post
Thanks for the tip on the soldering iron. What burnt out could very much be a MOSFET by the look of pictures on the net. I would have no idea where to get a replacement or what size it is. Resoldering it is probably a bit above me even with a proper soldering iron.

Maybe a silly question but is the board useless without it?

If it is then I will take it to my local hobby shop or even give a few a ring to
see what they say and if they quote me prices anywhere near half of what a new board costs then it will be a thanks but no thanks.

I'm still hoping one will pop up on ebay. It's only a matter of time. NO BIDDING IF ONE DOES

I'm not too bothered I will use mine for spares and there are plenty of those and the one BD is sending me will be treated with the utmost respect
I bought my MOSFET on ebay from China... handful for 5 bucks shipped. I have the number here somewhere of the one that was blown. Never did get around to trying the repair. Mine was the main speed control... heli won't work without it... wanted to go full throttle upon connecting the battery with no Tx control... Tx doesn't even need to be on or even present (this explains why some pilot's 120's have flown away never to be seen again... if one goes on ya during flight)

I got the best deal on the new board at the time from valuerc on ebay.
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