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Old Sep 26, 2011, 10:56 PM
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I got my replacement RX2612V today. I'm curious to see how it compares to the RX2618V I have installed in the bird. Will check it out at the first opportunity.
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Old Sep 27, 2011, 10:16 PM
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I plugged in the RX2612V today.
At 0 throttle there is very little motion in the A/E servos when I wiggle the receiver, the tail functions normally.
When I increase the throttle the throw of the servos increases, just like someone said. I never would have guessed it, but that's the way it works.
No wonder everyone is switching to the 2618 RX, including me. It flies great with it.
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Old Sep 27, 2011, 11:47 PM
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During one of my 4F200’s recent “accelerated” landings I popped the head off one of the bolts for a main blade holder. Wow Hobbies is out of stock on their nut/bolt set for the 4F200 and have been for a little while now. I don’t know when they will be back in stock and I’m grounded until they get more stock. Anyone know if I can get a nut/bolt set somewhere else or if another set will work well for a 4F200? On that note does anyone know where I can just get a bunch of mini/micro nuts and bolts on the cheap?
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Old Sep 28, 2011, 12:36 AM
1 year flyin' & lovin' it!
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United States, CA, Covina
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Originally Posted by Mahfu View Post
During one of my 4F200ís recent ďacceleratedĒ landings I popped the head off one of the bolts for a main blade holder. Wow Hobbies is out of stock on their nut/bolt set for the 4F200 and have been for a little while now. I donít know when they will be back in stock and Iím grounded until they get more stock. Anyone know if I can get a nut/bolt set somewhere else or if another set will work well for a 4F200? On that note does anyone know where I can just get a bunch of mini/micro nuts and bolts on the cheap?
Read post #1455 in the 1#A thread. If this is the allen head screw that holds the blade holder on to the feathering shaft, replace them all. Walkera uses junk soft metal for their screws, you should upgrade to hardened, or stainless for replacements. Just take one of the others out and match it up at a bolt/fastener supply.

You will also find that these screws are used in a lot of their other applications too.

Good luck,
AB
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Old Sep 28, 2011, 03:03 AM
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Hey all, I figured I might as well just record a video of me flying'round in the backyard. This 4F200 is all stock except for S3154 Futaba digital cyclic servos, Blade 400 landing skids, dealextreme fiberglass rod/foam blades and Gens ace 1550mah 25C Lipos. Oh and a low battery lipo alarm.

Enjoy: Walkera 4F200 Backyard Flight
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Old Sep 28, 2011, 09:02 AM
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This is what I used for blade root shims: http://www.mcmaster.com/#91116a110/=e9au0h

Rafa

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Originally Posted by clearprop88 View Post
I found some T-Rex 250 blades in my supply box, and tried them in the 4F200.
The root is quite a bit thinner than the stock blades, around 1.2mm, so I had to use some washers as shims, also the chord is narrower. They fly OK, but I noticed some tracking error on these blades that I don't see on the stock blades. I think it's caused by the shim/washers I'm using.
Any comments on how to install these blades properly are welcome.
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Old Sep 28, 2011, 07:58 PM
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This is what I used for blade root shims: http://www.mcmaster.com/#91116a110/=e9au0h

Rafa
Thanks, I'll try them.
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Old Sep 28, 2011, 09:33 PM
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Thanks, I'll try them.
Sorry if I failed to mention that for plastic and/or fiberglas blades. I have been shimming so many blades, on so many helis for so long now, it doesn't even register any more.

I use cut up credit cards myself: they are tough as all get out, but have a nice lubricity when something slides laterally over them, so they are like a bearing surface.
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Old Sep 29, 2011, 12:11 AM
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Sorry if I failed to mention that for plastic and/or fiberglas blades. I have been shimming so many blades, on so many helis for so long now, it doesn't even register any more.

I use cut up credit cards myself: they are tough as all get out, but have a nice lubricity when something slides laterally over them, so they are like a bearing surface.
I like this idea, I'll have to try that.
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Old Sep 30, 2011, 03:39 PM
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Credit card is a great idea!

I watched the video of back yard flying. The lipo alarm is very appealing as well. I forget to push the button on the timer about half the time.
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Old Oct 20, 2011, 12:56 PM
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I'm looking to extend my flight time. I'm having trouble finding something high than 1500mAh that is close to the same size as what Wow Hobbies has to offer. I also think I read something about someone using a 3S instead of a 2S. How does that work?
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Old Oct 20, 2011, 01:04 PM
1 year flyin' & lovin' it!
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United States, CA, Covina
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Originally Posted by Mahfu View Post
I'm looking to extend my flight time. I'm having trouble finding something high than 1500mAh that is close to the same size as what Wow Hobbies has to offer. I also think I read something about someone using a 3S instead of a 2S. How does that work?
Are you still using the stock setup? I'm getting about 8 min with upgraded motor/ESC setup & 1250mAh 25C Rhino's.

If you are going 3S, you will have to change your pinion, and I suggest going to a 30AESC.

AB
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Old Oct 20, 2011, 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Mahfu View Post
I'm looking to extend my flight time. I'm having trouble finding something high than 1500mAh that is close to the same size as what Wow Hobbies has to offer. I also think I read something about someone using a 3S instead of a 2S. How does that work?
First, I can't speak to a 3S set up, but I've included an 1800 mah 3s below to give you some scale, compared to stock 2S battery (also pictured, in silver). What I can tell you is that going to 3S means 1/3 higher voltage, and so you need to check KV of motor, capability of ESC and of BEC to handle it, etc. Given that I think it already has plenty of "punch" myself, I just haven't looked down that road.

As to a bigger capacity battery, I have one shoehorned in that is 1800maH vs 1500, and is also higher current ("C") rating as well. Of course, it is larger, costs more, weighs more, and since the canopy is already tight, barely fits the stock setup. In fact, it extends out over the 'shoe' at the bottom of the frame meant to stop the stock battery, so you'll want to pad out the bottom of the battery with extra foam, or remove the foot, so it doesn't press too hard all in one spot. Damaged lipo --not good!






I guess if you don't mind engineering a different canopy, then figuring out balance, etc, you might go bigger, but with the 1800s and a lot of FFF, I am using 190mah/min, so I am good for 7.5 minutes of flight (to 80% discharge), then need to swap batteries. That works might fine for me, esp when I also have the stock batteries to use as well.

If you wanted to reconfigure the canopy, or put a different one on, and go to the 2200 2S, then you would be able to fly over 9 minutes in 'sport' flying, but the weight it is not insignificant. The stock 1800mah = 86 grams with wires and connectors, the 2200 = 137grams (59% heavier!)
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Old Oct 20, 2011, 01:40 PM
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Oh, and one other thing:

Regardless of what you decide to do, there is another critical point that any battery, including the stock one, needs to be checked for -- it is easy to place the battery so that it will interfere with the arm or rod for the front servo. This is obviously a very bad situation, as would be letting the sharp aluminum arm rub on the bottom of a battery extending over the stock location, as emphasized in photo. This heli is already a cramped little critter! Notice the alternative wire routing needed fort he larger battery, too, exiting out of the.. back.

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Old Oct 20, 2011, 06:06 PM
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My 4f200 motor gets very hot. After a flight, the first thing I do is remove the battery then I lay the heli across a cooling fan which cools the motor.
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