SMALL - espritmodel.com SMALL - Telemetry SMALL - Radio
Reply
Thread Tools
Old Dec 30, 2010, 11:57 AM
Hong Kong
Joined Jan 2010
6,315 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rafa's CB100 View Post
Hov p and t are the two rocker switches at the top of a 2801pro. They are like trims for your curves. If I find that I've got my Hov p or t not close to center, I'll adjust my curves to bring hov t and p closer to center. Which tx are you using?

Rafa
Thanks, I think I have found them on my 2801, they used to knobs on my Futaba transmitter. I am wondering if you intend to use Idle up with V curve, would it be a bad idea to bring the hover to the center? Would you get a sudden and massive drop when you switch to idle up?
zadaw is online now Find More Posts by zadaw
Reply With Quote
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Old Dec 30, 2010, 01:08 PM
"you'll play to live "
Alwayscrash's Avatar
Canada, QC, Montreal
Joined Sep 2009
1,731 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by zadaw View Post
Would you get a sudden and massive drop when you switch to idle up?
Seems your pitch curve is too high.
You have to check swashplate referring to Idle up1 for zero degree blade pitch with all servos centered (disconnect motor, switch on Idle, observe it's swash position ,switch back to normal and adjust linkages to have almost similar position).After that just compare normal/idle by switching it consecutively.
AC
Alwayscrash is offline Find More Posts by Alwayscrash
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 30, 2010, 01:50 PM
Live to learn. . .
Rafa's CB100's Avatar
Austin, TX
Joined Dec 2009
1,489 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by zadaw View Post
Thanks, I think I have found them on my 2801, they used to knobs on my Futaba transmitter. I am wondering if you intend to use Idle up with V curve, would it be a bad idea to bring the hover to the center? Would you get a sudden and massive drop when you switch to idle up?
I guess that the answer to your question would depend on how close the curves are to each other at or near the hover point. The curves need to be close at the hover point, so the transition is smooth. For the transition to be smooth, hover in 'normal' can't be at center stick, since center stick should be zero degrees in 'idle-up'. Did I understand your question correctly?

By 'center', you might also mean hov p or t. I would think that hov p or t apply to all flight modes, not just normal, if that's what you were meaning.

Rafa
Rafa's CB100 is offline Find More Posts by Rafa's CB100
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 30, 2010, 02:04 PM
Hong Kong
Joined Jan 2010
6,315 Posts
Thanks for your replies, I don't think I will be playing with V curve yet until I have got a decent sim. Concerning Hov T and Hov P, do the settings stay after the transmitter has been switched off or do they need to be set again for each flight?
zadaw is online now Find More Posts by zadaw
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 30, 2010, 02:05 PM
Live to learn. . .
Rafa's CB100's Avatar
Austin, TX
Joined Dec 2009
1,489 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by zadaw View Post
Thanks for your replies, I don't think I will be playing with V curve yet until I have got a decent sim. Concerning Hov T and Hov P, do the settings stay after the transmitter has been switched off or do they need to be set again for each flight?
They stay, just like trims.

Rafa
Rafa's CB100 is offline Find More Posts by Rafa's CB100
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 31, 2010, 03:05 PM
Registered User
stretch1100's Avatar
USA, IL, Elgin
Joined Jan 2006
667 Posts
Hopefully I had my last crash of the year today! That 30amp esc worked great AC. I now need to get cyclic servos. Looks like the futaba S3114 or the S3108 are the way to go? Not sure I want to go with the mystery ones if I can't use them to do any 3D one day because of weaker torque. Looks like the S3114's are gonna cost me $44 for a set of 3 shipped. Anyone have other servo recommendations?
stretch1100 is offline Find More Posts by stretch1100
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 31, 2010, 03:34 PM
Addicted Again
Wylie TX
Joined May 2009
371 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by stretch1100 View Post
Hopefully I had my last crash of the year today! That 30amp esc worked great AC. I now need to get cyclic servos. Looks like the futaba S3114 or the S3108 are the way to go? Not sure I want to go with the mystery ones if I can't use them to do any 3D one day because of weaker torque. Looks like the S3114's are gonna cost me $44 for a set of 3 shipped. Anyone have other servo recommendations?
I have used the s3114 and the digital s3154. They both work well. They are virtually an exact fit to the stock frame. I don't know that they strip much less easily than the stock Walkera ones, but replacement gears are readily available. Both servos share the same gearset. The only thing I don't like about the 3114, is when you plug in the battery they will jump/move from their starting position before the RX binds. I am using the digital s3154 now since the 2702v receiver I am using requires digital only.

I got the s3114 from HeliDirect and s3154 from Tower. I did receive one defective s3154. After notifying Tower by email, they immediately sent out a replacement without requiring me to return the old one. Nice service.

One thing to consider, the Walkera Servos are $28.95 for a set of 3 vs $44 for the s3114. 3 sets of replacement gears are $19.50. So if you replace all of them 3 times the s3114 are cheaper use.
ri0grand is offline Find More Posts by ri0grand
Last edited by ri0grand; Dec 31, 2010 at 03:44 PM.
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 31, 2010, 04:10 PM
Live to learn. . .
Rafa's CB100's Avatar
Austin, TX
Joined Dec 2009
1,489 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by stretch1100 View Post
Hopefully I had my last crash of the year today! That 30amp esc worked great AC. I now need to get cyclic servos. Looks like the futaba S3114 or the S3108 are the way to go? Not sure I want to go with the mystery ones if I can't use them to do any 3D one day because of weaker torque. Looks like the S3114's are gonna cost me $44 for a set of 3 shipped. Anyone have other servo recommendations?
I just installed a set of the S3114s and they are working well. I also just installed a set of those lights that ri0grand mentioned, and they rock. I used to think that lights were kinda geeky, but I'm sold.

I still have a tiny bit of tail wag that I'm still trying to work out. If my gyro is set at 70%, which direction should I try going first? In the past, I've been able to make the speed of the tail wag change by adjusting the gyro, but not go away completely. I've lubed bearing and pivots, replaced belt, main gear, balanced things, etc. What else is on the tail wag list?

Rafa
Rafa's CB100 is offline Find More Posts by Rafa's CB100
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 31, 2010, 04:40 PM
"you'll play to live "
Alwayscrash's Avatar
Canada, QC, Montreal
Joined Sep 2009
1,731 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rafa's CB100 View Post
I just installed a set of the S3114s and they are working well. I also just installed a set of those lights that ri0grand mentioned, and they rock. I used to think that lights were kinda geeky, but I'm sold.

I still have a tiny bit of tail wag that I'm still trying to work out. If my gyro is set at 70%, which direction should I try going first? In the past, I've been able to make the speed of the tail wag change by adjusting the gyro, but not go away completely. I've lubed bearing and pivots, replaced belt, main gear, balanced things, etc. What else is on the tail wag list?

Rafa
Have you tried to move ball closer on tail servo arm?
AC
Alwayscrash is offline Find More Posts by Alwayscrash
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 31, 2010, 04:48 PM
Live to learn. . .
Rafa's CB100's Avatar
Austin, TX
Joined Dec 2009
1,489 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alwayscrash View Post
Have you tried to move ball closer on tail servo arm?
AC
No, sir. After I move it in one hole, what should I expect to have to do with my gyro setting?

BTW, I'm still using a stock servo. I've got a DS420 in the wings, but I haven't played with it yet.

Rafa
Rafa's CB100 is offline Find More Posts by Rafa's CB100
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 31, 2010, 04:57 PM
ojo
Registered User
Joined Dec 2006
53 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ri0grand View Post
I have used the s3114 and the digital s3154. They both work well. They are virtually an exact fit to the stock frame. I don't know that they strip much less easily than the stock Walkera ones, but replacement gears are readily available. Both servos share the same gearset. The only thing I don't like about the 3114, is when you plug in the battery they will jump/move from their starting position before the RX binds. I am using the digital s3154 now since the 2702v receiver I am using requires digital only.

I got the s3114 from HeliDirect and s3154 from Tower. I did receive one defective s3154. After notifying Tower by email, they immediately sent out a replacement without requiring me to return the old one. Nice service.

One thing to consider, the Walkera Servos are $28.95 for a set of 3 vs $44 for the s3114. 3 sets of replacement gears are $19.50. So if you replace all of them 3 times the s3114 are cheaper use.
Hi,

you can get a replacement gear set for the walkera servos at http://www.live-hobby.de/products/de...-WK-SG-76.html

They cost 2.9 Euros, this is approximately 4$.

Regards, Ojo
ojo is offline Find More Posts by ojo
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 31, 2010, 05:08 PM
"you'll play to live "
Alwayscrash's Avatar
Canada, QC, Montreal
Joined Sep 2009
1,731 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rafa's CB100 View Post
No, sir. After I move it in one hole, what should I expect to have to do with my gyro setting?

BTW, I'm still using a stock servo. I've got a DS420 in the wings, but I haven't played with it yet.

Rafa
Usually, tail wag is due to gyro gain too high, decrease gyro gain often solve problem. It is supposed that every steps below must be done done:
First check for vibration from the head. Look down the center hole of the head when blade spins at full speed. Make sure you have the same size perfectly circle hole on top of the head. If the head is off balanced it will send vibration to the gyro in the receiver giving it false reading making the tail unpredictable.
1. Main blades are off balance, you need to balance them even when are new (Especially if you have a high performance main motor).
2. Feathering shaft is bent
3. Main shaft is bent
4. Rotor head twisted or damaged from crash or blade scrap.
5. Bent blade grips
6. Main blade tracking is off.
7. One of the 3 wires broke between the tail ESC and the tail motor
8. Tail transmission gear is stripped or not properly engaged for shaft drive 4G6
9. Main shaft collar screw loose and main shaft is moving up and down sending vibration to the gyro causing the gyro to receive false signal and wags the tail.
AC
Alwayscrash is offline Find More Posts by Alwayscrash
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 31, 2010, 05:18 PM
Live to learn. . .
Rafa's CB100's Avatar
Austin, TX
Joined Dec 2009
1,489 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ri0grand View Post
The blue light on the bottom is from my battery voltage monitor http://www.helidirect.com/maxpro-bat...ies-p-8158.hdx $5.95 money well spent I think.
Yo ri0grand (or anyone else, or course), I got a question about this battery monitor. I got one, but it doesn't do any more than flash red and beep, even with a full battery. I see some note in the instructions, it says, "if the battery monitor detects that load voltage of the batter is under 3.3 x N (N=2,3,4,5,6) and stand 5 seconds, the Red LED will hold the flash status, and buzzer will hold the beep status until you disconnect the battery monitor's power." I'm not below 3.3V, and there's only 2 wires, so I don't see what I'm doing wrong. Any help?

Rafa
Rafa's CB100 is offline Find More Posts by Rafa's CB100
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 31, 2010, 05:23 PM
Live to learn. . .
Rafa's CB100's Avatar
Austin, TX
Joined Dec 2009
1,489 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alwayscrash View Post
Usually, tail wag is due to gyro gain too high, decrease gyro gain often solve problem.
AC
Thanks AC. Just to be clear, when you say 'decrease' gyro gain, you mean closer to 50%, right? 70% to 67%, for example?

Rafa
Rafa's CB100 is offline Find More Posts by Rafa's CB100
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 31, 2010, 05:32 PM
Addicted Again
Wylie TX
Joined May 2009
371 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rafa's CB100 View Post
Yo ri0grand (or anyone else, or course), I got a question about this battery monitor. I got one, but it doesn't do any more than flash red and beep, even with a full battery. I see some note in the instructions, it says, "if the battery monitor detects that load voltage of the batter is under 3.3 x N (N=2,3,4,5,6) and stand 5 seconds, the Red LED will hold the flash status, and buzzer will hold the beep status until you disconnect the battery monitor's power." I'm not below 3.3V, and there's only 2 wires, so I don't see what I'm doing wrong. Any help?

Rafa
Are you plugging into your balance plug on your battery?
ri0grand is offline Find More Posts by ri0grand
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools

Similar Threads
Category Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Discussion Another new Walkera! HM 4F200 heli-parkflyer Micro Helis 84 Jan 08, 2011 03:40 PM
Off Site Walkera 4#3 2.4Ghz RTF - Metal Head Version nighthawk0077 Aircraft - Electric - Helis (FS/W) 0 Nov 22, 2009 09:23 PM
Discussion Unique "mixer less" Bell Hiller Head design of the MSR plus Walkera 4#3 Mixer lesss EQMOD Micro Helis 47 Sep 27, 2009 12:59 AM
Discussion 45 Degree Flybar Conversion on a Walkera 4#3 V1 BELL HILLER head EQMOD Micro Helis 13 Sep 02, 2009 12:15 AM
Build Log Walkera 4#3 HH-65 USCG Dauphin--VIDEO 4 Blade head works page6 stevel48 Micro Helis 146 Dec 03, 2008 11:16 AM