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Old Dec 27, 2010, 10:02 AM
Hong Kong
Joined Jan 2010
6,166 Posts
I had another couple of very scary flights before the swashplate rocker flew off and I am grounded for now. But I have a more serious problem: I was ejected from my flying field today for trespassing on private property. Not that it was a good field in the first place. It is a narrow strip of land that is only 150ft from the sea from where I fly, although it widens on my right. Apparently, I am allowed to fly into it but not from it. That means I can still fly from the pavement but there are parked cars and people nearby. I am not sure whether I can continue to fly under such circumstances.

I am sure that my throttle and pitch curves are causing the problem with the Trex blades. I wonder if any of you can post what throttle and pitch curves you are using. I was getting very steep dives when coming out of right turns. Also as the heli was taking off and getting into hover, it would suddenly dart upwards with a small throttle input. All in all, it was extremely unpleasant and hairy indeed.

Rafa, I would advise you to get absolutely comfortable with nose-in hover first. You need to get in a situation when you are no longer scared with the heli coming towards you. This is actually easier if you fly faster and higher as the heli is more stable at higher speeds. But again you have to conquer your nerves. I actually find L circuits much easier to perform than R circuits. With L turns, I get fewer pitch ups and dives than R turns. I would also suggest that you look for an area with tall grass to fly in. I have crash landed my VB200, Trex 250 and 4F200 many times without any damage. It is also adivisable to install a lost model detector if you fly in an area with tall grass and hedges.

I would agree with Mick that it is good idea to get a FP trainer. You want something that will not result in a large repair bill or lots of repair time in the event of a major crash. I found the V200D01 invaluable as it is the same size as the 4F200 and Trex 250, but there is a problem with gear stripping. At least, it allow me to recognize the appearance and shape of the heli at different orientations, heights, and distances. After having 100 flights with the V200, I have not had any major crashes in the following 80 flights with my CP helis. I don't consider flying FP helis going backwards. I have flown large nitros before but I find it much more challenging to fly now because of my small airfield and also the small size of the helis.

Derek
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Last edited by zadaw; Dec 27, 2010 at 10:08 AM.
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Old Dec 28, 2010, 05:12 AM
Registered User
Joined Nov 2010
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Change of Main Gear on the 4F200

Hi,

I actually got the 4F200 working with the WK2802PRO nicely (I can e-mail the setting if you PM me with your e-mail) and I can hover and can do the 8`s in front of me - a really nice heli.

However I have stripped the main gear and despite having changed the main gear on the V200D02 several times I struggle to do so on the 4F200. I am still staring at this exploded diagram but canŽt figure out how to change the main gear (yes, I have taken the bolt # 120 out):




Any help around?

Thanks, Heinz
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Old Dec 28, 2010, 06:29 AM
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Joined Nov 2010
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Change of Main Gear on the 4F200 - found it (and it worked)

Hi,

all after reading through the thread from A-Z I found the method of dkfuji which worked fine for me: ... change the maingear out by taking off the 3 links to the swash and tilt the swash to release from the anti-rotation bracket. Then unscrew the maingear bolt and loosen the collar under the main bearings. Then just pull up on the head to clear the gear and slide it out. I just don't like undoing thread locked screws (all of my screws are) risking twisting off the head of the screw and now having to replace any of the metal frames.

So a.) many thanks for posting all the information and b.) sorry for asking first and reading second.

Cheers, Heinz
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Old Dec 28, 2010, 07:46 PM
Addicted Again
Wylie TX
Joined May 2009
371 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by JumboA5 View Post
Hi,

all after reading through the thread from A-Z I found the method of dkfuji which worked fine for me: ... change the maingear out by taking off the 3 links to the swash and tilt the swash to release from the anti-rotation bracket. Then unscrew the maingear bolt and loosen the collar under the main bearings. Then just pull up on the head to clear the gear and slide it out. I just don't like undoing thread locked screws (all of my screws are) risking twisting off the head of the screw and now having to replace any of the metal frames.

So a.) many thanks for posting all the information and b.) sorry for asking first and reading second.

Cheers, Heinz
That is the method I use.

Order your self a spare screw set. That will cover you for the ones you lose too.
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Old Dec 29, 2010, 08:46 AM
Hong Kong
Joined Jan 2010
6,166 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by JumboA5 View Post
Hi,

I actually got the 4F200 working with the WK2802PRO nicely (I can e-mail the setting if you PM me with your e-mail) and I can hover and can do the 8`s in front of me - a really nice heli.
Hi Heinz, I wonder if you are using the Trex 250 blades for your 4f200? I have the factory curves for the original blades but I am having a lot of problems with Trex blades. The biggest problem is a steep suicide dive when coming out of a fast right turn. I wonder if anybody using Trex 250 blades can help? I am really completely uneducated as far as throttle and pitch settings are concerned.

I may start using the original blades again. My flying field has very tall grass and it is very difficult to break blades in a crash.
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Old Dec 29, 2010, 10:04 AM
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Joined Nov 2010
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blades 4F200

Quote:
Originally Posted by zadaw View Post
Hi Heinz, I wonder if you are using the Trex 250 blades for your 4f200? I have the factory curves for the original blades but I am having a lot of problems with Trex blades. The biggest problem is a steep suicide dive when coming out of a fast right turn. I wonder if anybody using Trex 250 blades can help? I am really completely uneducated as far as throttle and pitch settings are concerned.

I may start using the original blades again. My flying field has very tall grass and it is very difficult to break blades in a crash.
Zadaw,

nope - still using the stock blades however I am still in the Žhover - fly the eight (a sort of still) - come back to hover - do it all again phase (but very small no. of crashes however now).

If a.) you are still interested in the set up just PM me with your e-mail adress and b.) if there is a source for some other (beginner) blades IŽd be interested to know however.

Cheers, Heinz
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Old Dec 29, 2010, 10:07 AM
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Joined Nov 2010
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loosing screws ...

Quote:
Originally Posted by ri0grand View Post
That is the method I use.

Order your self a spare screw set. That will cover you for the ones you lose too.
yep - I actually use a white sheet or a sort of a white towel under the heli when working on it to find back the screws better ...

AND, yes - I ordered a set of screws on day one as well.

Heinz
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Old Dec 29, 2010, 11:29 AM
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France
Joined Dec 2010
57 Posts
[PHP]Quote:
Originally Posted by fassla View Post
some pics from my 4F200[/PHP]

Hi Fassla

Do you have a link for your AS350 fuse

Alain
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Old Dec 29, 2010, 11:46 AM
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fassla's Avatar
Vienna, Austria
Joined Jun 2008
48 Posts
the fuselage is originally from ESKY Big Lama.
they have three different paintings available.

if you google
esky big lama canopy

you will find dealers close to your homebase.

if you are located in europe - LINDINGER has them for sure ;-)
if you need more pictures - let me know
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Old Dec 29, 2010, 12:01 PM
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good to see you here. ..

Fassla,

your setting is working good (for the 4F200) me - I have taken the freedom to modify and to give it to one more person (hope that's all right). However can you let me know what blades you are using (don't ask me why I ask ...).

Heinz
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Old Dec 29, 2010, 12:08 PM
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France
Joined Dec 2010
57 Posts
Thank you for the quickly reply
Yes, if you have more pictures, I'm very interesting
Do you have made some modifications to install it (remove tail knighthead ...)
No vibration?
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Old Dec 29, 2010, 02:27 PM
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Australia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JumboA5 View Post
Zadaw,

if there is a source for some other (beginner) blades IŽd be interested to know however.

Cheers, Heinz

Link- http://shop.ebay.com.au/?_from=R40&_...All-Categories
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Old Dec 29, 2010, 08:29 PM
Live to learn. . .
Rafa's CB100's Avatar
Austin, TX
Joined Dec 2009
1,489 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by zadaw View Post
Hi Heinz, I wonder if you are using the Trex 250 blades for your 4f200? I have the factory curves for the original blades but I am having a lot of problems with Trex blades. The biggest problem is a steep suicide dive when coming out of a fast right turn. I wonder if anybody using Trex 250 blades can help? I am really completely uneducated as far as throttle and pitch settings are concerned.

I may start using the original blades again. My flying field has very tall grass and it is very difficult to break blades in a crash.
Hi zadaw,

I can't say I'm educated on curves, or fast right handers, but I can tell you what curves I was running with yellow, then white plastic trex blades:
Throttle 6 37 61 80 100
Pit 45 47 50 66.5 75

With the yellow blades, and the yellow esc (from rctimer), my headspeed would actually climb a bit when I pumped the throttle. This effect lessened when I installed the white blades, and everything evened out. Have you played with Hov P and Hov T yet?

Rafa
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Old Dec 30, 2010, 10:18 AM
Hong Kong
Joined Jan 2010
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Thanks Rafa, I wonder where do you adjust Hov P and Hov T? Jumbo A5, I will pm you. Bravo47, you right turns look pretty smooth. I would be interested in your curves if you don't mind giving them. In fact, I am interested in what everybody else is using.

This is what I am using at the moment

Throttle: 0 30 60 75 90
Pitch: 36.5 46 57.5 67.5 78.5

The pitch settings are factory settings. I have dropped the throttle curve a little bit. I wonder if anybody could tell me what could be wrong? It would suddenly dart up during hover and would dive steeply when I am doing R turns. This is in contrast to my Trex 250 which climbs coming out of R turns.

Thanks
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Old Dec 30, 2010, 10:44 AM
Live to learn. . .
Rafa's CB100's Avatar
Austin, TX
Joined Dec 2009
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Hov p and t are the two rocker switches at the top of a 2801pro. They are like trims for your curves. If I find that I've got my Hov p or t not close to center, I'll adjust my curves to bring hov t and p closer to center. Which tx are you using?

Rafa

Quote:
Originally Posted by zadaw View Post
Thanks Rafa, I wonder where do you adjust Hov P and Hov T? Jumbo A5, I will pm you. Bravo47, you right turns look pretty smooth. I would be interested in your curves if you don't mind giving them. In fact, I am interested in what everybody else is using.

This is what I am using at the moment

Throttle: 0 30 60 75 90
Pitch: 36.5 46 57.5 67.5 78.5

The pitch settings are factory settings. I have dropped the throttle curve a little bit. I wonder if anybody could tell me what could be wrong? It would suddenly dart up during hover and would dive steeply when I am doing R turns. This is in contrast to my Trex 250 which climbs coming out of R turns.

Thanks
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