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Old Oct 14, 2012, 07:42 PM
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It's legit. I saw this a while back. It like the color of the canopy at minimum. Don't expect stellar customer service from bannan. BannanHobby has a "D" rating by BBB. There's actually a forum thread somewhere regarding them. Look here: http://www.la.bbb.org/business-revie...e-CA-100075745

It's hilarious "Tony signature series"... too funny.

And xheli.com, sells Walkera helis rebranded under the Exceed RC brand. Not sure what Walkera is doing here. Here is a Genius CP (i think): http://www.xheli.com/exceedheli-x100...24g-devo7.html

And there are some Novus helis produced by Heli-Max, a USA brand.

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Originally Posted by IntegrityHndywrk View Post
I suppose it's all good as long as it's legit. I just didn't know walkera did this. The video made my day though. LOL

Looks like he has a devo 6 or 2801 for his Trex 250 too. or something like that.
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Old Oct 14, 2012, 08:51 PM
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Those are some nice loops. I hope to get there one day.

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Originally Posted by IntegrityHndywrk View Post
Got bored with the other helis and re-tuned the 4f200 and brought it out. As usual it was very windy. The heli felt sloppy in the air compared to my other helis so i was really doing gyro adjustment/flight/adjust. This was just one of the better, later flights.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3sdHX...ature=youtu.be
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Old Oct 14, 2012, 09:45 PM
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Walker 4F200 Tri-Blade Head

I have just finished re-installing the stock RX-2612V receiver and using the WK-2603 transmitter, which I haven't touched for 12 months. Everything functions except for one thing: Tail Spin

The tail on the 4f200 keeps spinning. It does this in both directions. I am running the Align DS420 tail servo. One thing I figured out while the heli is just sitting there is the pitch of the tail blades was moving in the opposite direction. So fortunately the 2603 transmitter has a RUDD channel reverse. I changed that and now I have the tail blade pitch working correctly. But the heli still spins.

So what the heck is going on? At this point, the only thing I can figure is I have the RUDD channel working in the reverse direction, but the gyro internally is compensating in the normal direction. The 2612 and 2618 receivers do not have a setting on them that allows the tail gyro to be reversed. Is that what's going on here? And if so, how do I get around this? I am stumped.

Please offer anything that can help me fix this!

By the way. This 2603 transmitter sucks! I just remembered, there's no TH (throttle hold) switch. And programming is not straight forward at all plus the "engrish" manual leaves me with nothing but trial and error guess work. It's a shame I didn't buy my 4F200 with the 2801 PRO transmitter.
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Old Oct 14, 2012, 10:01 PM
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The rx gyro needs to be reversed no doubt. But it doesn't have a reversing switch does it... Is there some way to switch the servo to the other side of the boom or something to reverse it mechanically? The other option is to go back to a stock tail servo.

For example... on my v120d02s this is how you would mechanically reverse the servo. I do not have a 4f200 so I have no idea if it could be done on it. But anyway maybe this helps.
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Old Oct 14, 2012, 10:23 PM
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Mechanical reversing.... hah. That never crossed my mind. Thanks for the fast response. I am going to give that a shot and report the result. I do still have the stock tail servo sitting around... somewhere.


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Originally Posted by flint723 View Post
The rx gyro needs to be reversed no doubt. But it doesn't have a reversing switch does it... Is there some way to switch the servo to the other side of the boom or something to reverse it mechanically? The other option is to go back to a stock tail servo.

For example... on my v120d02s this is how you would mechanically reverse the servo. I do not have a 4f200 so I have no idea if it could be done on it. But anyway maybe this helps.
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Old Oct 15, 2012, 12:05 AM
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Originally Posted by razorblade View Post
Mechanical reversing.... hah. That never crossed my mind. Thanks for the fast response. I am going to give that a shot and report the result. I do still have the stock tail servo sitting around... somewhere.
Yep, thats your issue. Just FYI. The 4f200/v200d03 tail servo and the 4f200LM tail servo are different. The difference is they are mounted on opposite sides of the boom so they work backwards from each other. Just something to keep note of in case anyone ever needs to replace their tail servo and can only find the 4f200LM tail servo.
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Old Oct 15, 2012, 01:36 AM
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Mounting the Align DS420 tail servo onto the other side of the boom did the trick. Also mounted the ball on the servo horn to the other side of the horn. Then I went in the 2603 transmitter and set the RUDD channel reversing back to NORM. Its flying well now and I can move onto tuning.

Thanks guys. Your advice and experience helped out perfectly.

The last time I had the 2612 on the heli was with the stock tail servo which explains why I never had this issue before. I almost thought the 2612 was bunk from gathering dust, LOL. Plus, I have been spoiled by the 7200 beast x.

The 2603 transmitter still sucks though.
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 01:46 PM
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razorblade, do you have a devo transmitter? I know I've been repeating myself a lot with this deviation firmware stuff but it is really great, imo. It would solve your 2603 problem.
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 06:44 PM
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Originally Posted by flint723 View Post
razorblade, do you have a devo transmitter? I know I've been repeating myself a lot with this deviation firmware stuff but it is really great, imo. It would solve your 2603 problem.
YEAH IT WOULD! For $220! + shipping @ retail value.


He would be FAR better off buying another AR7200BX with BeastX gyros for his Spektrum DX6. That would only be about $20 more, and a WHOLE world of difference in the better quality side, from anything Walkera has ever made. The Devo 10 is nice though. Lots for the money. It's just not a BeastX gyro.
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Old Oct 18, 2012, 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by IntegrityHndywrk View Post
YEAH IT WOULD! For $220! + shipping @ retail value.


He would be FAR better off buying another AR7200BX with BeastX gyros for his Spektrum DX6. That would only be about $20 more, and a WHOLE world of difference in the better quality side, from anything Walkera has ever made. The Devo 10 is nice though. Lots for the money. It's just not a BeastX gyro.
I was only asking if he already owned one... not suggesting he buy one. I definitely agree that if he was to buy anything for it a beastx would be the thing to buy.
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Old Oct 18, 2012, 10:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flint723 View Post
razorblade, do you have a devo transmitter? I know I've been repeating myself a lot with this deviation firmware stuff but it is really great, imo. It would solve your 2603 problem.
Quote:
Originally Posted by IntegrityHndywrk View Post
YEAH IT WOULD! For $220! + shipping @ retail value.

He would be FAR better off buying another AR7200BX with BeastX gyros for his Spektrum DX6. That would only be about $20 more, and a WHOLE world of difference in the better quality side, from anything Walkera has ever made. The Devo 10 is nice though. Lots for the money. It's just not a BeastX gyro.
Sorry no I do not have a Devo transmitter.

At this point, I'm not even willing to spend $59 on a RX2618V receiver, nor $139 on a 2801 pro transmitter. I already have a DX6i transmitter so I'd rather put the $$$ towards another AR7200BX receiver. I actually can get the 7200 receiver from my LHS for $219 + tax.

Its a shame I didn't understand the value of a fully programmable transmitter when I purchased my 4F200 back in March of 2011. I keep beating myself on the head for that bad decision. Only if I knew then, what I know now.

Right now I have the 4F200 flying but it's only good for mild forward flight. I can make adjustments on the 2603 transmitter, but no where near the adjustments that are needed for 3D maneuvers.

I'm not in any rush to do any type of 3D on the 4F200. Its getting colder out. Days are shorter. Snow is around the corner here in Minnesota. Soon I'll be flying the mCPX inside the house, bouncing it off the walls. The main living area has a vaulted ceiling... I am going to dare my self to do an mCPX inverted maneuver in the house this winter. Should be interesting. Maybe even attempt a ceiling landing downstairs.
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Old Oct 23, 2012, 01:13 AM
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I just wanted to share an experience i had during maintenance of the 4f200. Which for me only includes oiling the thing up. Everything else is so thread locked and set i'm not worried about ever checking screws. Only the swash and blade grip links get checked.

Anyway. Typically in oiling my bearings i oil the 2 motor bearings and main shaft bearings first. This usually immediately removes most of the accumulated friction that builds when the oil breaks down. My main rotor usually spins for a second after a hard hand spin. But it was stopping instantly still. I proceeded to oil the other main bearings. This included the one between the pitch and aileron servos if you look down from the top. As well as the one below it supporting the bottom of the tail drive gear. So with the 2 motor bearings, 2 main shaft bearings, 2 tail drive gear shaft bearings all oiled up the main rotor STILL had a lot of friction compared to normal. On top of that, my flight times had been pretty bad the last few times i flew which is a good reason it's been shelfed and i even boxed it up for sale at one point but couldn't bring myself to post my favorite heli for sale. I have not honestly been flying the 4f200 much. Maybe 2 flights all month. But i figured maybe it just needs some TLC, it always has been high maintenance. But after oiling all the main bearings and then the tail shaft bearings in the tail box too. The friction was still high. Then i realized there were 3 main bearings i almost ALWAYS neglect, not because i don't know they should be lubed. I just always over look them. I flipped the heli upside down and put a drop of oil around the crack on the bottom of the swash. That's the swash bearing. Almost immediately after starting to spin the rotor i could feel the friction break free and the rotor was MUCH better but still felt a little bit like there was still something holding tight. The last 2 bearings i always neglect of course! They are small but they can add some resistance apparently! It's the two bearings inside the tail steering slider. Once i lubed those 3 bearings (front and back of slider and swash) the heli had a very "friction few" spin to it again. I have no doubt i will get an extra 2 minutes or so back in my flights and the heli will perform better. I just wanted to bring this info to the mainstream because, as far as i can tell. There are plenty of people in this hobby not bothering to oil anything ever! This is just a neglectful thing to do to your beloved heli! Oil will make those bearings last much longer and run much smoother. Better flight times can almost be guaranteed and heat will definitely be reduced in the ESC.
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Old Oct 23, 2012, 08:13 PM
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Thank you for sharing your experience. I take it as a refresher that something as simple as a few drops of lube can make a difference that can be felt and seen.

Does the type of lube used matter? I still didn't get a chance to purchase that Scorpion motor lube that you have been using.

Quote:
Originally Posted by IntegrityHndywrk View Post
I just wanted to share an experience i had during maintenance of the 4f200. Which for me only includes oiling the thing up. Everything else is so thread locked and set i'm not worried about ever checking screws. Only the swash and blade grip links get checked.

Anyway. Typically in oiling my bearings i oil the 2 motor bearings and main shaft bearings first. This usually immediately removes most of the accumulated friction that builds when the oil breaks down. My main rotor usually spins for a second after a hard hand spin. But it was stopping instantly still. I proceeded to oil the other main bearings. This included the one between the pitch and aileron servos if you look down from the top. As well as the one below it supporting the bottom of the tail drive gear. So with the 2 motor bearings, 2 main shaft bearings, 2 tail drive gear shaft bearings all oiled up the main rotor STILL had a lot of friction compared to normal. On top of that, my flight times had been pretty bad the last few times i flew which is a good reason it's been shelfed and i even boxed it up for sale at one point but couldn't bring myself to post my favorite heli for sale. I have not honestly been flying the 4f200 much. Maybe 2 flights all month. But i figured maybe it just needs some TLC, it always has been high maintenance. But after oiling all the main bearings and then the tail shaft bearings in the tail box too. The friction was still high. Then i realized there were 3 main bearings i almost ALWAYS neglect, not because i don't know they should be lubed. I just always over look them. I flipped the heli upside down and put a drop of oil around the crack on the bottom of the swash. That's the swash bearing. Almost immediately after starting to spin the rotor i could feel the friction break free and the rotor was MUCH better but still felt a little bit like there was still something holding tight. The last 2 bearings i always neglect of course! They are small but they can add some resistance apparently! It's the two bearings inside the tail steering slider. Once i lubed those 3 bearings (front and back of slider and swash) the heli had a very "friction few" spin to it again. I have no doubt i will get an extra 2 minutes or so back in my flights and the heli will perform better. I just wanted to bring this info to the mainstream because, as far as i can tell. There are plenty of people in this hobby not bothering to oil anything ever! This is just a neglectful thing to do to your beloved heli! Oil will make those bearings last much longer and run much smoother. Better flight times can almost be guaranteed and heat will definitely be reduced in the ESC.
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Old Oct 23, 2012, 10:25 PM
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Thank you for sharing your experience. I take it as a refresher that something as simple as a few drops of lube can make a difference that can be felt and seen.

Does the type of lube used matter? I still didn't get a chance to purchase that Scorpion motor lube that you have been using.
I would say any bearing oil would work. It seems like petrol / synthetic oil blends work best at getting into the bearing. At least that is what the Scorpion oil is i think. Extreme makes a bearing oil too with "titanium particles" i have never used it. But like i said, I'm sure any bearing oil will be fine. Again, the only reason i advocate the Scorpion oil is, well. One, they are a legit mfg of large electric motors. I think they would know a thing or two about lubricating bearings. Two, the scorpion oil says on the instructions/label that it has been tested with lots of plastics and polymers and has not shown any deterioration or damage from the oil. It also says it won't be ejected if you don't over apply it. Plus it's made for bearings 100% so you know it will seep into the bearing at least. Thick oil may not. I've been told you can use a low viscosity synthetic motor oil just fine. Low viscosity so it can seep in. I don't know the weights or anything to look for though. I would assume a low # oil though. like 0w30 or 5w20/5w30 or something like that in a synthetic oil.
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Old Oct 24, 2012, 01:25 AM
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4F200 - Inverted circuits (3 min 43 sec)
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