Originally Posted by Alwayscrash

more 4F200 fuselage pics.....

Good job, looks great! I want to see how it looks in the air,

Rafa

Originally Posted by Alwayscrash

more 4F200 fuselage pics.....

Man, that's a lot of work. Good job!
Don't know if I've got the patience for that myself.

Originally Posted by JossyRC

There are other advantages to the extra blade(s). One that I think is most relevant for smaller helis is the 3rd blade helps to dampen vibration (where a 2 blade head will actually amplify it). The blade anngle along with progression help to counter slight off balances in the head... but also because the blades are now closer together in the flight path the extra blades has less parasitic drag (because it is in the path of the blade a head of it) this means better blade tip performance...

and because there is more lift from 3 blades rather than 2 you don't need as much pitch (+- 8-9* rather than +-10-12*) to create the same lift ( nor as much headspeed - but maybe a little more torque) -which reduces induced drag (the casue of engine bogging).

And lastly you'll have quicker response from cyclic input because there is less distance between the blades.... on a 2 bladed head there is 180* travel around the swash before the blade gathers the cyclic input, on a three bladed head there is 120* travel, on four blades there is 90* travel etc.

So multi bladed heads provide better performance with a smaller rotor diameter, slower headspeeds and with less induced drag applied on the head (smoother control because HS is more consistent through the pitch curve).

Nice info for sure. The thing is, I am basing what I find from flight trials. All I know is, my stock 3 bladed version has a very average climbout rate with the +/-9* and it is great with +/-12*. I usually base this observation on giving the heli about 20ft of full negative and full positive 5ft from the deck to see how long it takes to change direction and how much stick it takes to get the heli to stop just before the deck. With the 9* it just takes longer to reverse the momentum of the dropping mass and is slower to go back into a climb. With the 12*, momentum is snapped to a stop and the ascent is immediate. It makes for a more positive transition from quick + to - pitch for stuff like tic-tocs and rainbow type maneuvers is all. I know its just a Walkera, but of course I can't help comparing it to the way my T250 and Gaui 255 fly. Just my personal preference. Won't really know until Manny takes a crack at her.

Wonder how it would do with lighter blades? I'm assuming this is stock with CF blades... and foamies don't exist (ort are not a good idea a this size).

Hey Darryl, do you have any idea on how to replace tail belt? seems a bit complicated.....dunno to begin from front boom holder or tail rotor pulley.(just want to try another belt).

Actually, I am flying the Gaui 200 woodies which weigh .8g less each. It is more stable and smooth with these blades. Plus the heli is quieter as well. The price can't be beat either at $5.99 a set (I bought 3 sets so I have 2 sets of 3). I am also using a lighter lipo pack. The NRG 35C 1300mah packs weigh about 5g less than the stock 20c lipo. All in all, it makes for a snappy little flyer.

Originally Posted by dkfuji

Actually, I am flying the Gaui 200 woodies which weigh .8g less each. It is more stable and smooth with these blades. Plus the heli is quieter as well. The price can't be beat either at $5.99 a set (I bought 3 sets so I have 2 sets of 3). I am also using a lighter lipo pack. The NRG 35C 1300mah packs weigh about 5g less than the stock 20c lipo. All in all, it makes for a snappy little flyer.

Cool. Where are you buying these blades? For that matter, where do the batteries come from?

Rafa

Originally Posted by Alwayscrash

Hey Darryl, do you have any idea on how to replace tail belt? seems a bit complicated.....dunno to begin from front boom holder or tail rotor pulley.(just want to try another belt).

Don't know if you can since the tooth pattern does not look standard. I looked at this dilemma as well. Even if you remove the 2 screws on the sides of the boom at the rear of the frame, the boom does not slide out. I think you should start with the front of the boom and remove the bearing block (and servos) to release the the top of the pulley shaft so you can unhook the belt. In order to get enough slack to do this, I would take off the 3 screws that hold the vert fin on and take off the side of the tailbox. This will provide enough slack to slide the belt off of the tail pulley (you have to slide off the black retainer to do this). Now you will be able to unhook the belt on the front of the boom and pull out the belt. Hope this helps.

Originally Posted by Rafa's CB100

Cool. Where are you buying these blades? For that matter, where do the batteries come from?

Rafa

I got blades and lipos from helidirect. Gotta spend $100 to get free shipping. LOL.

Originally Posted by dkfuji

Don't know if you can since the tooth pattern does not look standard. I looked at this dilemma as well. Even if you remove the 2 screws on the sides of the boom at the rear of the frame, the boom does not slide out. I think you should start with the front of the boom and remove the bearing block (and servos) to release the the top of the pulley shaft so you can unhook the belt. In order to get enough slack to do this, I would take off the 3 screws that hold the vert fin on and take off the side of the tailbox. This will provide enough slack to slide the belt off of the tail pulley (you have to slide off the black retainer to do this). Now you will be able to unhook the belt on the front of the boom and pull out the belt. Hope this helps.

Thanks, Bud.I'm try to resolve this puzzle in an easiest way.

Originally Posted by dkfuji

Nice info for sure. The thing is, I am basing what I find from flight trials. All I know is, my stock 3 bladed version has a very average climbout rate with the +/-9* and it is great with +/-12*. I usually base this observation on giving the heli about 20ft of full negative and full positive 5ft from the deck to see how long it takes to change direction and how much stick it takes to get the heli to stop just before the deck. With the 9* it just takes longer to reverse the momentum of the dropping mass and is slower to go back into a climb. With the 12*, momentum is snapped to a stop and the ascent is immediate. It makes for a more positive transition from quick + to - pitch for stuff like tic-tocs and rainbow type maneuvers is all. I know its just a Walkera, but of course I can't help comparing it to the way my T250 and Gaui 255 fly. Just my personal preference. Won't really know until Manny takes a crack at her.

Daryyl
That is a total travel range of 18 degrees with the travel 50% up and 50% down. Could you give your self 11 degrees positive and then only 7 degrees negative. Or 10 deg pos and 8 deg neg. I know this would affect inverted flight but what if you dont do inverted. Would this be a viable solution for more pos pitch. Give a little to get little.
Marc

Originally Posted by Alwayscrash

Hey Darryl, do you have any idea on how to replace tail belt? seems a bit complicated.....dunno to begin from front boom holder or tail rotor pulley.(just want to try another belt).

Hi AC,

I'll be interested to hear how it goes, as I'll be doing the same job to replace my bent tail shaft. Hopefully the parts will get here next week.

Rafa

Originally Posted by Rafa's CB100

Hi AC,

I'll be interested to hear how it goes, as I'll be doing the same job to replace my bent tail shaft. Hopefully the parts will get here next week.

Rafa

Hey Rafa, for replacing tail shaft you'll need to take off the 3 screws on vertical fin ,unbolt the hex screw on tail boom and pull out the Tail Gear Holder.Don't forget to loosen the tail boom screws near the sevos to make belt drive loosen enough. Don't forget to readjust belt after assemblage.If tail shaft is just bent why don't you straight it and use while waiting for parts?

Originally Posted by Alwayscrash

If tail shaft is just bent why don't you straight it and use while waiting for parts?

I wish it were that easy. Thanks for the advice otherwise. I'll let everyone know how it goes, when it goes. Now I really can't wait to go fly it again. Parts, parts, parts,

Rafa

Originally Posted by dkfuji

The NRG 35C 1300mah packs weigh about 5g less than the stock 20c lipo. All in all, it makes for a snappy little flyer.

A few battery questions:

As a learner, if I was more concerned with longer flight times and less about high C ratings, is there a better battery option?

Does this battery crossover, in terms of power ratings and size, to batteries that other Walkeras use? IOW, can knowledge of battery testing from other comparable helis transfer to this one?

I notice that the little stock charger takes a long, long time to charge. Without going full-bore stupid, what's the next step up in chargers?

Rafa