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Old Aug 02, 2010, 04:14 AM
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Australia
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Originally Posted by dkfuji View Post
Hey Rafa nice job. Took me forever and a load of parts to get my first outdoor CP hover going okay. Good for you man.
Have to agree here as well. I was three months crashing and rebuilding my first CP heli on a weekly basis, before I could achieve a loose hover like Rafa just demonstrated. Perhaps the 4F200 may be a good transition to CP heli suggestion if it holds up well over the next few months. Looks good so far anyhow.

Im hoping to see my 4F200 delivered some time this week.

Nice flying Rafa
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Old Aug 02, 2010, 04:59 AM
Micro-Heli-Concepts
jasonjetski's Avatar
Australia, NSW, Blacktown
Joined Dec 2006
4,984 Posts
Iam so tempted to buy one of these,but I know as soon as I do,walkera will bring out another new and exciting heli. Then I will want the next one.
Walkera are killing me
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Old Aug 02, 2010, 08:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Bravo47 View Post
Perhaps the 4F200 may be a good transition to CP heli
How does it compare stability wise to the 4G6S? I am searching for that yet to be developed "indoor CP".
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Old Aug 02, 2010, 09:42 AM
"you'll play to live "
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Canada, QC, Montreal
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What do you guys think? very neat inside, must be well planned before cutting fuse....will get some brush paint in white/blue/red soon.
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Old Aug 02, 2010, 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by sportvelo View Post
How does it compare stability wise to the 4G6S? I am searching for that yet to be developed "indoor CP".
I am wondering the same thing. Maybe walkera will come up with their own version of the Blade SR cp.
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Old Aug 02, 2010, 01:11 PM
Live to learn. . .
Rafa's CB100's Avatar
Austin, TX
Joined Dec 2009
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Take III. More newbie questions.

Hi Guys,

I went for my third session this morning (no video this time), and now I'm thru this battery break-in thing that the manual talks about (With the battery fully charged, let the battery discharge to no less than 70% charge, then charge fully again. The book says that doing this 3-5 times will increase battery like and consistency. I did it 5 times.).

Anyway, I figured that if I could, I would stay in the air as long as I could, to try to gauge how long the battery lasts on this thing. The good news is that I made it 6:48 with no 'ground touches'. At 6:49, something went wrong. Maybe I goofed, maybe the battery went flat, I don't know. All the sudden, the heli stands on end, then comes down to the ground, doing a little cartwheel on the training gear. When I got to the heli, all was fine, with the exception of the tail pitch slider assemblies and tail blades. One of the blades broke, another one of the blade holders got torn from the hub, etc. There begins the $ and downtime that everyone was talking about. I knew it was coming at some point, I was just hoping it would happen when parts were more readily available. I can't complain, it was a great 6:48 (all tail-in)! I even flipped into ST-1 for a second or so in the middle of the flight, just to see what would happen. I got scared as I heard the motor spool up so I flipped the switch back to normal--that's what happened.

Oh yeah, my question. My CB100 would just slowly start to lose power as the battery discharged, and I knew to bring her down when the heli wouldn't 'punch' anymore. Should I expect a similar thing on this heli, or will it suddenly just give up the ghost?

Rafa
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Old Aug 02, 2010, 01:12 PM
RC Helis: My Healthy Obsession
The OC, California
Joined Feb 2007
3,159 Posts
[QUOTE=mrschultz02;15686699]

So, I probably shouldn't ask but does the Walkera use a standard 3mm main shaft?

I am afraid not. It is a 4mm shaft. Also, the pitch of the main gear is .25mod and so is the belt drive gear. So, that makes it difficult to change things out or use a standard one-way bearing set-up. There are rumors that Walkera is working on fuse's for this heli as well.
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Old Aug 02, 2010, 01:16 PM
RC Helis: My Healthy Obsession
The OC, California
Joined Feb 2007
3,159 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rafa's CB100 View Post
Hi Guys,

I went for my third session this morning (no video this time), and now I'm thru this battery break-in thing that the manual talks about (With the battery fully charged, let the battery discharge to no less than 70% charge, then charge fully again. The book says that doing this 3-5 times will increase battery like and consistency. I did it 5 times.).

Anyway, I figured that if I could, I would stay in the air as long as I could, to try to gauge how long the battery lasts on this thing. The good news is that I made it 6:48 with no 'ground touches'. At 6:49, something went wrong. Maybe I goofed, maybe the battery went flat, I don't know. All the sudden, the heli stands on end, then comes down to the ground, doing a little cartwheel on the training gear. When I got to the heli, all was fine, with the exception of the tail pitch slider assemblies and tail blades. One of the blades broke, another one of the blade holders got torn from the hub, etc. There begins the $ and downtime that everyone was talking about. I knew it was coming at some point, I was just hoping it would happen when parts were more readily available. I can't complain, it was a great 6:48! I even flipped into ST-1 for a second or so in the middle of the flight.

Oh yeah, my question. My CB100 would just slowly start to lose power as the battery discharged, and I knew to bring her down when the heli wouldn't 'punch' anymore. Should I expect a similar thing on this heli, or will it suddenly just give up the ghost?

Rafa
The nature of the 3 axis gyro is it will go nuts when the voltage drops. There is no telling what the heli will do if you fly out the pack. One thing I do know is the stabilization ability goes haywire when the battery pack is flown out. This differs greatly from the CB100.
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Old Aug 02, 2010, 01:34 PM
Live to learn. . .
Rafa's CB100's Avatar
Austin, TX
Joined Dec 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkfuji View Post
The nature of the 3 axis gyro is it will go nuts when the voltage drops. There is no telling what the heli will do if you fly out the pack. One thing I do know is the stabilization ability goes haywire when the battery pack is flown out. This differs greatly from the CB100.
Thanks. Knowing this makes me feel better, actually.

There it is, we now have a baseline as to the absolute limit of time a stock battery can just hover around--6:48.

Rafa
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Old Aug 02, 2010, 01:42 PM
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Canada
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Originally Posted by Alwayscrash View Post
What do you guys think? very neat inside, must be well planned before cutting fuse....will get some brush paint in white/blue/red soon.
It so happens I have one of these fuses laying around. Did you relocate the battery or are you removing the front of the fuse every time you access the battery? How'd you cut it so clean? And what holds it firm to the guts?
Let us know how it flies with the full fuse on. I've been holding off on this heli, waiting for the larger Esky version (CT), but if the orange 222 fuse works good, I might forget about the CT.
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Old Aug 02, 2010, 02:06 PM
"you'll play to live "
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Canada, QC, Montreal
Joined Sep 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xviper View Post
It so happens I have one of these fuses laying around. Did you relocate the battery or are you removing the front of the fuse every time you access the battery? How'd you cut it so clean? And what holds it firm to the guts?
Let us know how it flies with the full fuse on. I've been holding off on this heli, waiting for the larger Esky version (CT), but if the orange 222 fuse works good, I might forget about the CT.
I want to keep everything as stock, changing batt will need to pull out the first haft (thinking of using some small magnet to keep it fast-snap).After trimming fuse weights about 92g, heli still lift up with plenty of power! I use a thin scissor with small tip to cut the fuse and finish with some sand paper.You onle need to find some best place on chassis to put some tiny screws for holding the tail haft-fuse ,the front one once snap in will fit tightly between landing skid and battery holder, so just need to make it "married" closely with the other half.Anyway, there is some stock screws that fit perfectly with the fuse if you wants to keep it tighter but i think that's not very important tho.
Putting a 3blades heli on scale really change a lot of look. Hope i can finish it nicely!
Acrash
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Old Aug 02, 2010, 02:24 PM
RC Helis: My Healthy Obsession
The OC, California
Joined Feb 2007
3,159 Posts
Nice work A. It is going to look very cool when completed. All you will need is some lights next. LOL.
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Old Aug 02, 2010, 02:48 PM
"you'll play to live "
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Canada, QC, Montreal
Joined Sep 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkfuji View Post
Nice work A. It is going to look very cool when completed. All you will need is some lights next. LOL.
Darryl,
Don't you know that i've destroy two fuses before to go for this third one?LOL!
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Old Aug 02, 2010, 02:59 PM
RC Helis: My Healthy Obsession
The OC, California
Joined Feb 2007
3,159 Posts
He he. . Of course. I actually installed the 180Q fuse on a 3D EP200 a while back and it did look very cool. Here is a vid of it flying in the park. The added weight did effect it flight characteristics though. The tail was not as snappy but of course I had some really cheap electronics in it and it was not flybarless. I also replaced the landing skids and built an aluminum subframe for the landing wheels to keep the "look".

Walkera CB180Q Fully 3D CP Mod (2 min 18 sec)
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Old Aug 02, 2010, 03:02 PM
"you'll play to live "
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Canada, QC, Montreal
Joined Sep 2009
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ok, some update.It's really a pain for removing tail rotor, belt drive assembly to put fuse in so i've cut-off a 5mm space along the tailboom-fuse to make the job easier.Just snapit in and keep it tight with the existing stock canopy holder pin. This way, it will be verey simple to take it out for maintenance.Don't worry, plastic fuse can be slightly bent without breaking. So far, i'm looking for some magnet for the other half, maybe finding on some glasses clips....Also, using a thinner batt will give more space on the upper end & made fuselage fit more nicely onto the front.
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