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Old Nov 16, 2011, 02:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deliver1003 View Post
Hy,

Here's a video of my initializing without motor plugged in. and result as well
The seceond part is about the old setup (servos and rx) is the same. no corrections. :S

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=q40LIpKWkGA
Why is your TX throttle in the mid stick position during initialisation? As far as i'm aware none of my Walkera RX's will initilise their RX gyro's unless the stick is bottomed out, and to take it further with some the throttle trim needs to be lowered to -15 to get the gyro's to initialise. Try initialising your heli with a NORMAL flight mode and a -15 throttle position.

When we said the throttle needs to be at 50% before the 3A is activated, this was ment to be AFTER a normal initilisation with a bottomed out throttle.

Mick
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Old Nov 16, 2011, 10:13 PM
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United States, IL, Chicago
Joined Sep 2011
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Too cold?

I was out flying tonight and I had something weird happen 3 or 4 times. I was basically practicing hovering and the power suddenly started to drop quickly to really low levels. The rotor didn't competly stop right away but I counldn't stop it or speed it up. I'm flying a 2618 RX and a 2801 TX. The temp was about 40 deg with a little wind. The first time it happened I thought my battery connection was working loose. It happened a few different times with different batteries. The RX light would be flashing when I got to it. My TX was at about 9.8V.

Hopefully the cold isn't the problem as the local outdoor tennis courts are unused now that it is cold and well lit at night.
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Old Nov 17, 2011, 10:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bravo47 View Post
Why is your TX throttle in the mid stick position during initialisation? As far as i'm aware none of my Walkera RX's will initilise their RX gyro's unless the stick is bottomed out, and to take it further with some the throttle trim needs to be lowered to -15 to get the gyro's to initialise. Try initialising your heli with a NORMAL flight mode and a -15 throttle position.

When we said the throttle needs to be at 50% before the 3A is activated, this was ment to be AFTER a normal initilisation with a bottomed out throttle.

Mick

Yeah i know what are u talking about, but if u see this video . u will see that i have no stabilizing at all in action too with normal initializing.
i have normal settings here, with no throttle , and initializing correctly.
before takeoff.


4F200 Take Off Project (1 min 39 sec)


Ok i have tried out with 0 trim, and with -15 throttle curve as well , and it is all the same ()
:S
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Last edited by deliver1003; Nov 17, 2011 at 10:57 AM. Reason: Additional information
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Old Nov 17, 2011, 12:43 PM
Live to learn. . .
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Austin, TX
Joined Dec 2009
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Are you using aa batteries or a lipo in your tx? If lipo, 9.8v is really low for a 3s pack. Just a WAG,

Rafa

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mahfu View Post
I was out flying tonight and I had something weird happen 3 or 4 times. I was basically practicing hovering and the power suddenly started to drop quickly to really low levels. The rotor didn't competly stop right away but I counldn't stop it or speed it up. I'm flying a 2618 RX and a 2801 TX. The temp was about 40 deg with a little wind. The first time it happened I thought my battery connection was working loose. It happened a few different times with different batteries. The RX light would be flashing when I got to it. My TX was at about 9.8V.

Hopefully the cold isn't the problem as the local outdoor tennis courts are unused now that it is cold and well lit at night.
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Old Nov 17, 2011, 05:34 PM
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Walkera 4F200 Tail Wobble

I have read all these posts but still can't seem to figure out how all of you solved the tail wag on this model. I apologize if its hidden somewhere in the 100 or so posts.
All stock 4F200, and gyro set to 61% and while it does stay pretty calm at times it wags way to much and I want to fix it. If I'm moving its fine, but once I stop and hover it starts to move its tail
Thanks
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Old Nov 17, 2011, 06:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Binford View Post
I have read all these posts but still can't seem to figure out how all of you solved the tail wag on this model. I apologize if its hidden somewhere in the 100 or so posts.
All stock 4F200, and gyro set to 61% and while it does stay pretty calm at times it wags way to much and I want to fix it. If I'm moving its fine, but once I stop and hover it starts to move its tail
Thanks
hy Binford! I have got some ideas.first of all , horizontaly? Or vertically moves?? Maybe you go with low head speed, or timing belt has broken theeth , and if u have heavy to moove tail system, i mean if u check servo rod it must be easy to move. And of course there may be some kind of problem at the tail rotor. Loosen parts as well. but if there is fine everything it is only can be the rx knob tail deelay or something. I remenber when i used stock rx on my bird it was over 70% gyrosens. so it not neccessary to wag. Btw my gyro doesnt wanna work. So it is goes back to the shop. And the take off is just for fun. to show u how 4F200 flies without gyro and for your question in PM , i have crashed this heli multiple times.... Sadly.... I have to rebuild her over 10 times , i have about 4 broken swash plates, about 10-12 old broken servos, thats why i wanted to have metal geared ones. and i have re-build her tail rotor 2 times so if u give me only just parts in the morning, then a few hours later i can give u back a fully setted up and flyable 4F200 i promise PS. Sorry for my poor english
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Old Nov 17, 2011, 07:24 PM
Diverted by planks
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South Florida
Joined Dec 2010
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binford,

deliver1003 already gave you some good advice. I have two of these, and the key to getting one of them to quit wagging after a minor scrape was to rebuild the tail. You want to look for both slop, and also binding, and any looseness in linkage, servo arm, tail pitch control arm, pitch slider fastening, etc.

With a little care, I find it is possible to make it pitch pump with minimal tail transition (maybe 10-15 degrees, then self-recovery to original location), even while still allowing for hovering in normal mode, at ground level, with no wag.

Play and bind are the killers.
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Old Nov 17, 2011, 08:10 PM
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United States, MS, Columbus
Joined May 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deliver1003 View Post
Yeah i know what are u talking about, but if u see this video . u will see that i have no stabilizing at all in action too with normal initializing.
i have normal settings here, with no throttle , and initializing correctly.
before takeoff.
Ok i have tried out with 0 trim, and with -15 throttle curve as well , and it is all the same ()
:S
If you are flying the stock receiver, you will be much happier if you replace it with the one that comes with the 4f200LM - RX2618V. The stock Rx gyro doesn't kick in until 40% throttle. The RX2618V gyro kicks in from go and is much easier to fly.

I like 70% D/R and +10 expo for AILE & ELEV.

Also, I've discovered multi-blade "phasing." My 4f200 came perfectly mechanically phased. Luckily, I didn't mess with the swashplate follower to mess up the phasing.

It's been windy and/or rainy here for two weeks. I'm about ready for some dead air.
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Old Nov 17, 2011, 09:44 PM
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United States, IL, Chicago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rafa's CB100 View Post
Are you using aa batteries or a lipo in your tx? If lipo, 9.8v is really low for a 3s pack. Just a WAG,

Rafa
Just using AAs in the TX. I flew again today but this time inside. I haven't charged the TX batteries yet. I didn't have any problems. I'm starting to think it was the cold making things go haywire. Has anyone else had problems with flying in weather below 40 deg F?
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Old Nov 18, 2011, 04:05 AM
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Joined Mar 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mahfu View Post
Just using AAs in the TX. I flew again today but this time inside. I haven't charged the TX batteries yet. I didn't have any problems. I'm starting to think it was the cold making things go haywire. Has anyone else had problems with flying in weather below 40 deg F?
I did not fly in those temps myself, but I read several reports from people who said the cold was negatively affecting their flying. (Even if you keep your batteries in your pockets right until needing them to fly - going below a certain temp to fly just seems to be bad for LiPos (so you are NOT the only one with battery problems)
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Old Nov 18, 2011, 11:10 AM
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United States, IL, Chicago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by erdnuckel2 View Post
I did not fly in those temps myself, but I read several reports from people who said the cold was negatively affecting their flying. (Even if you keep your batteries in your pockets right until needing them to fly - going below a certain temp to fly just seems to be bad for LiPos (so you are NOT the only one with battery problems)
That sucks. Now that it is getting colder a near by park is pretty much deserted. And the fenced in tennis courts are completly deserted.

I was flying with out the canopy. Maybe putting it on will help but I'm guessing it wont.

Anyone know of a work around to keeping the battery warm?
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Old Nov 19, 2011, 10:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deliver1003 View Post
Yeah i know what are u talking about, but if u see this video . u will see that i have no stabilizing at all in action too with normal initializing.
i have normal settings here, with no throttle , and initializing correctly.
before takeoff.




Ok i have tried out with 0 trim, and with -15 throttle curve as well , and it is all the same ()
:S
Watching your first flight the gyro is working its just moving the wrong servos at the wrong time. Put one of the blades over the tail boom, then make sure the swash plate that controls that blade is exactly 90 degrees from the blade, in other words you should be able to look down on your heli with one blade over the boom and you should be able to draw a 90 degree angle between the blade and the servo/bottom of the swash plate for that blade you are looking at. Send me a picture if this doesn't make sense.
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Old Nov 21, 2011, 06:37 AM
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United States, MS, Columbus
Joined May 2011
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Multi Blade Phasing

Quote:
Originally Posted by deliver1003 View Post
Yeah i know what are u talking about, but if u see this video . u will see that I have no stabilizing at all in action too with normal initializing. I have normal settings here, with no throttle , and initializing correctly.
before takeoff.

Ok i have tried out with 0 trim, and with -15 throttle curve as well, and it is all the same ()
:S
It took me a while to understand what "phasing" means but with the help of this video and basic understanding of phasing (but didn't realize it at the time) it finally made sense to me. I'm going to give way more information than you probably would want but maybe this will help anyone else who might be having the same difficulty understanding the concept of phasing I had.

RC Helicopter Multi blade phasing, HOW TO! (5 min 25 sec)


In electronics, an inductor takes a while to build up a magnetic field the instant after current is applied to the circuit. Therefore, it lags behind. This is referred to as being "out of phase" and usually by some angle like 90 degrees. Then, it can be said that the current coming from the inductor is 90 degrees "out of phase" with the supply current.

Helicopter physics uses the same basic concept. Cyclic input gets responded to AFTER that blade has moved 90 degrees (give or take). In other words, the response lags 90 degrees out of phase with the command for movement. Adjusting for this lag is referred to as "phasing." The video above explains it pretty well. However, the 4f200 has three blades which causes some slight differences.

Mechanical Phasing:
I use the Anti Rotation Pin (AR pin) as my point of reference. If you do this, it won't matter how many blades you have. Position a blade perpendicular to the tail boom on the right viewing from the rear. This blade will be at 90 degrees. Sighting through the AR slot, that blade's ball link should appear in the slot. If it does, that is great. If it does not, the swash follower must be loosened so the swash plate can be moved aligning the ball link with the AR slot. The swash follower is required to be in a specific location on the main shaft so care must be taken when loosening the swash follower and moving the swashplate. Of course, all of this assumes a level swashplate and blade pitch angle and tracking set as required by adjusting the ball links.

Electrical Phasing:
I'm not going to get into this but suffice to say, you can "mix" servos to accomplish the same thing as mechanical phasing. Electrical phasing requires that all ball links be in the upright, vertical position at 90 degrees to the swashplate.

EDIT ADD: I decided to check the mechanical phasing on my 4f200. There is a reason it was nearly perfect out of the box. The swash follower has a pin through it and the main shaft to hold the swash follower in place. It can't be moved. All that can be adjusted is the blade pitch angle. The phasing can't be adjusted.
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Last edited by ChopperJack; Nov 21, 2011 at 10:34 PM. Reason: Discovered additional information tonight 11/21/2011
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Old Nov 25, 2011, 11:25 PM
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The swashplate on my 4F200 recently self-destructed. I bought it used and it had problems with a couple of linkage balls being loose (partially stripped) among other problems. Anyway I tried supergluing the balls before screwing back in but one let loose (luckily as I was spinning it up before take off). I never found the link ball or link rod. Anyway I picked up a complete and assembled V200D03 swash, rotor head, blade grips, even main shaft for $50 shipped on eBay. It turned out to be a drop in replacement for the 4F200. I adjusted blade pitch and leveled the swash and test hovered it inside (5 ft square area) and seems to work fine. So now I have a sort of V200D03 but with a belt driven 3 rotor tail and RX2618V radio. It also is using tail fins from a CB180Z (had to be slightly modified but what I had lying around). Now I need to know what to call it? Anyone got a name for this beast? It should be fun to fly. My current favorite heli is a V200D01. Will see if this one is more fun (just learning CP though).
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Old Nov 26, 2011, 12:06 AM
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Very nice, I like it
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