thanks, I have read the thread and setup sheets etc, and see them listing 1000 and 3000 associated oil, is this the diff oil, as I cant find shock oil that high number?

all this shock oil numbering confuses the hell out of me

I have a 2nd hand bike with unknwn setup and oil etc, so I figured that I would set it up as per the setup sheet on here, then play and tweak from there, at least hopefully start with something that will work

No! 1000 and 3000 oils are CST, which seems to be around 50 to 80wt oils, in general... I am using Xray or RB oils, just because it's easy for me to find them at my LHS and also I am using Xray oils in my XRay TC and other vehicles...
There's a chart somewhere, with the relevance of the two measures... (Found it: Post 442, page 30 in this thread!)

ah ok cool, many thanks, I have much to learn

just started to go over the bike and give it a clean and fiddle with it, blimey theres lots of bits to adjust and play with,

really dont like the steering setup, but will have to wait till I had a chance to try it out, my KP I can turn the front wheel lock to lock and the springs dont even touch the servo linkage, but this SB5 when laid on its side the wheel stays pointed ahead not into the turn like my KP, either its all wrong or its going to be a whole new learning curve

Another one:

thanks, found a few niggly things like stripped threads in the plastic, and a leaky shock, but can deal with that

going to change the steering setup to something more like Im used to with just springs, also on the plans is to ditch the slipper, I run stock class here in the UK, no need for that. also gets rid of that sticky out vulnerable bit, and probably put a chain drive on it, I just prefer them, just currently sourcing the chain as its longer run than any of the normal 70-72 links available, and dont want to just link 2 together, although theres nothign wrong with that I suppose
lots of sideplay in the swingarm/layshaft, read about that on here, so got a selection of shims on the way too
set of roadies on route to me, and looking forward to trying something totally different

ok so its me again, think Im a little alone in the world of SB5 LOL

anyway has anyone had an issue with the screws that hold the rear of the steering servo, and the actual body mounting flange of the servo interfering with the "wishbone" part of the suspension

I was trying to do some static setup and measurements on the bench but couldnt get any sag etc how I wanted it, look down and noticed that the rear of the servo and the screws have been rubbing on the wishbone part and were actually preventing the suspension of dropping down by a good 10mm

as it was it would lift the front wheel off the floor with 38mm from battery tray to floor, now thats 48mm with no servo in there

is this a common fault, has someone maybe built something wrong, cant see what?

Common fault. Take some material away from the wishbone, until the servo case clears it.

ok thanks,

I was ready to do that but thought it best to ask in case I had put something wrong, and being a 2nd hand bike I was unsure of what was done before me anyway

off to find the dremel and remove a tiny bit of material, hopefully this will give the handling boost I was after, no droop on the front was rubbish

oh one thing after another now find that with my Savox servo I cant get much steering movement with the suspension is topped out, the servo horn hits inside the wishbone at full droop, only get about half travel

think its maybe not helped by the slightly offset horn mounting on the low profile serve

back to the slightly less good full size servo and see what its like then.

aha just noticed the height difference from mounting points to the actual servo output shaft, probably 5-6mm different.

will try packing out the height and longer screws

if I pack it out to the right height then theres no chance of it clearing the wishbones GRRRR

need to do some thinking about this one

If you have the early moldings of the top wishbone, it will not have cutouts for the servo horn clearance as the sparepart version has. This would give you even more problems with an offset placed servoaxle. Cutouts visible at this pic. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXAMDP&P=7

aha, yes my top arm is different to that

think I just going to have to buy a new servo, standard size but higher spec, wanted low profile to clear my ESC as its a bit big and will foul on the servo lead of a stock size servo and thats not a good idea

beginning to wish I hadnt noticed it fouling and left it as it was LOL

I used the Savox 1251, but I mounted it the other way round, and did not use the steering dampers.

..lots of Choices..

thats what I had intended to do, but thought I had got the original system working ok

have now swung it round and mocked up a single sided linkage with springs either side of servo linkage etc, like the KP bikes, feels right, but need to make a servo arm or do something as I cant get the linkage to be dead straight ahead, and get slightly different results left and right for the same amount of servo travel

will either run 2 linkages both with springs behind the links, this should even out the side to side pressure or make a new servo horn to move it all in line

now can use my good servo, and have plenty of room under the servo for my fatty ESC

well after much hassle and stress I found a radio problem, solved it with a capacitor thanks to the power of the internet.

now the bike is stupidly responsive, might try and find a way to tone it down a touch as Im still an amateur at this, but as soon as I can get used to it I expect great things from it

See if you can reduce the Servo Speed on your radio
That helps a lot, and can be adjusted to suit each track.