|Jul 20, 2012, 05:12 PM|
Just received this radio. Indeed, reading in deapth this radio does indeed Mix the 3rd channel and one can tweak channel #3 seperately than the rear brake.
Perfect for my front servo in my SB-5. For me, (and some understanding of the directions) this is going to be a VERY good radio for my bike(s).
|Jul 23, 2012, 11:11 AM|
A huge amount of information here on these forums. I would suggest doing a "search". Setups depends if you and your buddy have a RTR or the carbon fiber Pro version?
Best setup for RTR would be CHANGING STOCK RUBBER to much better tires.(see www.2wheelhobbies.com )
You can get a Front brake also for the RTR bike(s), but it requires a 3 channel raido and receiver with "mixing" ability for the front servo, you can't just "Y" harness the front servo because there is no ability to manually tweak the front brake...only digitaly can you adjust the front brake.
The search function will pull up great info.
|Jul 23, 2012, 12:20 PM|
I'm using the stock setup. I use the PMT100 or PMT200 rear (the 200 are much softer than the 100)
So far I'm using the stock front tire, but will move to PMT100 front. The rodies tires are good too, but I have not bought them yet.
With good softer rear tire the front brake is not mandatory, but like always having to brakes to stop you are noticably better than just the rear.
Racing a "stock" class will ONLY use the rear brake, not allowing front brakes to be used.
|Jul 23, 2012, 01:23 PM|
Metal wheels I feel are not needed and seem expensive. BUT they have some bling factor though.
|Jul 30, 2012, 01:47 PM|
Did some practice runs today at my "Lostallo" track, with the bike.
I first tried the bike as it was, with slightly long crashbars, red springs on the steering (Savox 1251), front used cut-slick, rear slick, both PMT200's.
During the first few batteries, the bike had TOO responsive steering, so I decided for blue steering springs, with just a washer (1mm free springs, before that it was a small o-ring, with which the springs just touched).
Fine so far, the traction seemed adequate, so I decided to go with a bit lower scratchbars, like those I last used at Riccione in May...
With this change only, the bike started tucking the front wheel, in almost all corners that would be taken with the bars barely touching...
No part of the chassis is now touching (see my previous posts on narrowing the bike), and the tucking happened when I was trying to touch the steering, to start and get the bike up at the corner exit...
I checked my steering head bearings, all sound and good, the wheel bearings also in great shape, all the steering parts in general are in good working order.
I have lowered the rear, by placing the rear wheel axle on the upper and shortest wheelbase on Clark's swingarm plates.
The fenomenon started occuring at every battery, after 3-4 minutes of running...
Track temp was around 48-50C and in the pits (in the shade) the temp was 33-36C during the day.
Tomorrow I m going to try a (used) slick tire in the front and see how THAT behaves...
At 14.00 at home the temp was 41C! But 20 minutes earlier, at the track it was maxing at 36C... not bad, and I believe similar temps will occur at the Worlds. Be prepared, Northern people! It will BE HOT!!!! VERY hot!
As a sidenote on temps, however, the motor NEVER got over 55-56C after 10-11minutes of lapping! The tires though got very warm: 41-42C front, 44-45C rear! I am currently running used tires, of course, with Massari Hard inserts, which were glued by Clark. All my front tires have developed that soft pointy edge, right where the tread ends and the sidewall starts...
|Jul 31, 2012, 03:01 AM|
Joined Aug 2011
I had 17C when i practiced yesterday.
Did a new personal laprecord.
Waiting for a lexansheet so i can make the bike narrow.
Trying not to spend to much $$ on the bike.
Im hoping for a new bikerealese before next season (Lightscale Jabber)
If that doesnt happen ill spend $$$ on my TT next spring.
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