|Jun 18, 2012, 10:51 AM|
|Jun 18, 2012, 11:16 AM|
wanted to point out that its not a good idea hopping it up. Further only hopping
up the bike on one point will start ruining the other (weaker) original parts.
A carbon rear swingarm will tear the plasic middle chassis up in no time.
The weakest parts (links) of a chain will then start falling apart.
When you leave it as it is, it is close to indestructable and will work fine for
a long time.
Just a little maths (I am bored): turning a RTR into a Kit SB5 costs approx. EUR 600-650,-
The cheaper way if youre not happy with the RTR anymore is to then buy a Kit SB5.....
you will need the 600,- to make that a top performer over time anyway...
|Jun 18, 2012, 11:45 AM|
I just didn't do my research. I'm past the "learning stage" as I have been into bikes since 2004. I just didn't know that the RTR version was so un upgradable (because of the un-interchangable parts to the race version) I should have just bought the $300.00 race version and put my own electronics in. I didn't know. It is frustrating that they don't interchange without buying MUCH more $ worth of parts!
SB-5 Fail............ BUT SB-5 WIN is its "race" version. I just didn't know.
|Jun 28, 2012, 03:22 PM|
I made it slim!
Well... I managed to make the SB-5 slim, down there...
Of course it needs to be tested, now... Hopefully at our next TC National race, at Patra, next Sunday.
So... First I got the curved front chassis plates from Clark. Then, I got myself a huge 0.75 lexan sheet (about 1.5 X 1.5 meters for 6.50 euros!) and then I started cutting!
I first cut my green RTR body, which was already battered, and then the "good" body, I used at the Warm up.
The most trouble I had, honestly, was bending the lexan around an old battery, using Mrs Wife's hairdryer at the warmest possible setting, and then making the holes for the body posts correct, so the lower fairing would be snug around the bottom of the battery.
For body posts, I took the ideas of Franck Brunet and Ludovic Chaveau, who kindly sent me pics of Ludo's bike. I also used the idea of Rolf, and of course Bernhard's, but since I was going with the Lighscale curved carbon plates, I could better use the other ideas, since I also wanted to keep a clean area on the side of the fairing for the sponsors.
Here's how it looks now: I intently left the upper part of the lower fairing unpainted, so I can show my well painted upper fairing through it. I also left the upper fairing quite large, so that I keep the logos and all...
I will order a new transparent bodyshell, which I will have my friend NicAnd paint for the Worlds...
To do list: Install the front battery band post.
Oh. The body posts came from a set of five I had purchased last year for my KP bike, from Formby Models!
Out of curiosity, I weighed the bike: 1900 grams exactly. the only parts missing are two small bolts for the front rubberband mounting and the rubberbands themselves. And the tires right now are slicks, rather than treaded... ok...
|Jun 28, 2012, 03:40 PM|
looking very good!
If you lean it down now, you will notice that the toes of your driver now touch the ground first. I just dremeled them away
Edit: I tried to bend the lexan plate with heat as well, but did not get good results. I fix it between two pieces of wood, and bend it then.
|Jul 02, 2012, 02:21 AM|
I am plagued by low sidings! Yesterday I ran the bike with my new slimmer design at a new track, at Patras, where we had an Electric TC National race, between car heats.
At first I thought it was the servo (Savox 1251), then I replaced it with a cheapo HK low profile one, same thing. When leaned over in fast curves, the front tucks in, towards the inside of the turn, taking the whole bike with it, ending in the inside grass usually. If I brake VERY hard, and destabilize the bike, I may manage to create a crash and keep it off the grass...
It did it also, when I had the rear wheel axle at the fourth position (almost longest wheelbase), but not so much, once in a while only... With the rear wheel axle at the most forward position it's something you have to take care of, by slowing alot before each fst curve, not leaning the bike to the crashbars...
The track had a very good traction, unlike my local track which usually has med to min traction...
I will try the upper most forward position tomorrow, at my local track. Maybe lowering the rear makes any sense?
I have long front fork arms, and my caster angle is upper (**_) lower (_**) looking at the right side of the bike. (Look above, my second pic)
Any ideas, then?!
|Category||Thread||Thread Starter||Forum||Replies||Last Post|
|Build Log||ProJet MQ-9 Build (Tips/Tricks)||NewEMan||UAV - Unmanned Aerial Vehicles||549||Apr 10, 2014 02:43 PM|
|Discussion||I have a Lanier SE5a coming, any tips or tricks.............||mtdoramike||Scale Kit/Scratch Built||14||Mar 19, 2011 06:17 PM|
|Question||Gravity Hobby P 51 tips and tricks?||Lilbanks96||Parkflyers||0||Apr 19, 2010 05:32 PM|
|New Product||Formby Models TT SB-5 Pre-order||snooey||Motorcycles||12||Mar 02, 2010 11:15 AM|
|Need your TT/NF Nitro tips and tricks!!||grymg||Motorcycles||5||Aug 10, 2005 09:52 AM|