|May 11, 2012, 02:47 AM|
A bit off topic, but don't you love the mailman (men, actually! It was two of them!) when they appear at your front door at 9 am and then 9.30 am?!
All ready now for the Warm Up!
An excellent morning, indeed!!!!
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|May 11, 2012, 03:57 AM|
Actually my wife received the "pizza box" from the mailman and she came back in, happily announcing: Your Pizza arrived... from Germany! It's from your friend Clark!!!!
|Jun 13, 2012, 01:56 PM|
making the SB5 "slim"
Since Stelios asked me to give him Details about how I made my SB-5 "slim", I thought I'd share it with all of you.
1) Why would you do it?
- Because the stock Body reduces the leaning angle. If you tear down your front body mounts in 2 or 3 Batteries, you should do this!
If you are still happy with your leaning angles, and your body mounts hold up well, it's not necessary yet. But you will come to a point where you notice that a few guys are faster than you, even if you made everything right.
2) What do you need?
- A pair of lower front body mounts (you can use your old ones, if they are still good)
- A sheet of Lexan/Makrolon/Polycarbonat. 0.5mm is best, 0.75 works too. Thicker might make problems, since you need to bend it over an edge, it might break.
I get mine from my local Conrad Store:
- Body Drill (Reamer), 3mm Drill, Dremel
- Some Cardboard to get a feeling how the lower body has to look.
3) What to do now:
- Remove the front body mounts and the two front 2.5mm Screws that hold your Rubberband.
- Drill 3mm holes in the Carbon Front Frame Parts (PD09-0018). Approx. 3.5cm from the bottom.
- Mount the front body mounts on the Carbon Front Frame Parts, using your new holes.
- Put the upper body on the bike, and use your dremel to cut out the lower mounting point of your front frame parts. Then use your Body Reamer to make the holes for the Body mounts. I usually make them big enough to keep the body behind the washers.
- Now you should be able to mount your body really close to the bike.
- Get the cardboard, and try to bend a lower body, that uses the (new) front and the rear bodymounts.
- Once your Cardboard part looks good, make it flat and transfer it on your lexan sheet.
- Cut out the part, and now, depending on the thickness of your material, you can try to simply bend it over a sharp edge (Table), or mount it between two pieces of wood, and bend it on a plain area. This should give you a nice lower body for your bike.
- Since the lower mounting point of the Front Frame Parts is now the widest part, I also drill a hole in my lower body there, but this is optional.
- You should also shave away the front part of the riders feet, since they will drag on the ground too.
- Remove all the washers from your front axle screws, so they get closer.
- I also cut down the slipper axle, and used Spring washers from my Tamiya F1 instead.
This way I was able to start my bike on the left side without crashbars, just from the riders elbow. On the right side the brake prevents that (although you can get nice servo mounts that move the servo upwards).
It is not always necessary to use all of the available leaning angle, but it is good if your bike still has ground clearance even if there are some bumps, or your suspension is compressed.
Check the pics, and if you have any questions, feel free to ask.
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|Jun 13, 2012, 02:54 PM|
Thank you, that is a really good mod!
Perfectly my style, rearranging the existing parts and using simple cheap materials.
No apparent sacrifice in other functions.
My biggest problem was the shrinking bodymounts and lost clips that has prevented me from lowering my front end. This solves it all!
Better lean angle is a nice add to the list.
I will start working on my bike today.
|Jun 17, 2012, 11:37 PM|
Got a rtr sb5. Best 3 hopups ?? Front break set up ....pmt 100 tires....new rims...slipper clitch ???? Suggestions ??
|Jun 18, 2012, 02:19 AM|
HOP up a RTR!
The only thing thats worth it is the tires: a set of SB5 Rims with PMT200s and good inserts.
You will need the SB5 Spokeset with that (either the plastic or the Aluminum).
If you break something, buy the original RTR spares. People think:
"Oh! I broke a part then I will get the "better" parts from the Kit SB5."
WARNING: quite a few parts from the Kit Bike DO NOT fit to the RTR bike.
If they do then you need more parts to complete... This very suddenly costs
more than a Kit SB5. Easiest way to save money: Buy two RTRs and use one
for spares if you really are "getting into it"...
Learn to drive the RTR with a good set of tires without the front brake. If you
have a track near, drive on it. If there is a good bike driver there let him set a
lap with the RTR and try to get close to that time. Once you have reached it:
Buy a new bike.
|Jun 18, 2012, 05:46 AM|
|Jun 18, 2012, 10:16 AM|
I can't put a front break on it?? (won't fit?) I can't chose a carbon fiber part(s)?? I can't put a slipper clutch??? This is pretty F dissapointing if this is true.
|Jun 18, 2012, 10:29 AM|
Just to make my point a bit more clear:
Okay then get the kit carbon fork legs: They do not fit the RTR Triples
because they are further apart than on the kit bike. Then you will also have
to buy the headstock of the Kit bike then you will find the triples dont fit
that and get the kit triples because the RTR doesnt have steeringbearings
and then you need the steeringpivot. .....I just checked: all the parts together
will be approx. €140,- ($175,-) .. just to have the Carbon fork legs.
You want the Carbon Chassis Plates: dont forget to order the carbon crashbarholders
the Chassis bushings and the plastic crashbarbits: €140,- again...
That alltogether is close to the kit SB5 price...€299,-..
EDIT:The SBkit brake fits on the RTR the info I wrote before wasnt right .
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