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Old Apr 04, 2012, 01:10 PM
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621clay's Avatar
United States, TX, Houston
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Originally Posted by dragbikebam View Post
is anyone having a "drag brake" effect from their tight belt setting?...mine is fairly tight and messing me up in the curves while brakeing..it just doesnt coast as well as my chain bikes...can we please get a chain kit for this thing already!!!!! I'm sorry but i'm sick of the belt. It has no benefit what so ever other than it sounds smooth, its killing the bike.....its flexing the chassis, putting more drag on the motor than a chain, it skips, it stretches, its just is not a good idea for a bike. You don't see motogp bikes with a belt do ya? Or any 1:1 race bike for that matter. When eric buell started racing his belt driven bike he converted it to chain drive. I know it's not the same but that should tell you something
+1.625
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Old Apr 04, 2012, 01:42 PM
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Memphis, TN USA
Joined Apr 2009
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Originally Posted by 621clay View Post
+1.625
hey Clay where you been? i think the whole belt thing is a fad...and just cheaper to produce for TT..PATRICK ALLEVEN can you hear me? we need you buddy!!!!
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Old Apr 04, 2012, 01:53 PM
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United States, TX, Houston
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Man a chain drive would be sooo awesome!! That would be so much better for the slipper too you would think.
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Old Apr 04, 2012, 02:12 PM
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Memphis, TN USA
Joined Apr 2009
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Originally Posted by 621clay View Post
Man a chain drive would be sooo awesome!! That would be so much better for the slipper too you would think.
Yes, more consistency for the slipper too. Now that you brought that up I have found that if the slipper is slipping a lot it gets hot and starts grabbing, flipping you over before you realize it..I don't mean to bitc%#@ because I have said it before and i will say it again..the sb5 pro is a revolution in RC bikes but it could be better..the drag effect was not so bad with alloy wheels but i switched to the oem plastic wheels the other day since its warming up and the traction is better, man it totally changed everything and slows down so fast in the curves that im having to stay on the throttle to keep my line..learning to drive it all over again it seems..but if it had a chain i could just keep my momentum and flow faster without the belt tension and yes, i did change my steering springs too(softer)
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Old Apr 04, 2012, 05:29 PM
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canvey island
Joined Jul 2002
1,817 Posts
Yeah mine skipped the pully straight out of the box melted the pully even with a tight setting, not used it since as I know it will happen time after time unless you have the belt so tight it drags, I thought someone would of come out with a chain drive by now
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Old Apr 04, 2012, 07:33 PM
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crashed 1 of mine today
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Old Apr 04, 2012, 08:15 PM
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Memphis, TN USA
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Originally Posted by esp1972 View Post
crashed 1 of mine today
Destroyed it crash or just broke a part crash..Mine have been holding tough and I have had some duzzies. The only part I have broken was a front plastic wheel after about the 20th hard crash.
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Old Apr 04, 2012, 11:34 PM
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Originally Posted by dragbikebam View Post
Destroyed it crash or just broke a part crash..Mine have been holding tough and I have had some duzzies. The only part I have broken was a front plastic wheel after about the 20th hard crash.
front wheel, 1 fork leg, stripped a spendy servo (was upseting) I know it happens it just sucks.
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Old Apr 05, 2012, 01:25 AM
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Austria
Joined Jan 2007
650 Posts
Edi said it some pages before:
Remove the belt, and see if your rear tire spins free. The spacers at the rear axle get bent over time, and clamp the rear wheel.
I run my belt very tight, but did not notice a drag brake effect yet.
A chain drive could be interesting, yes.
I tightened the slipper to a point where it only slips in crashes, not when driving, so can't comment on the slipper action issues.
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Old Apr 05, 2012, 02:28 AM
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Joined Jun 2006
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My rear wheel rotates freely without noticable friction...itīs only this undersized crappy belt which has to be tightened as much that you get a very effective drag brake. A belt really only has disadvantages sans the production price but considering the price of the bike the micro drive chain should already be included. The standard belt without a tensioner might be sufficient for a standard brushed motor driven by NiCa Batteries for a longer working period. Unfortunately the 3/16 pitch micro drive chain is difficult to come by here in Europe and I donīt really want to buy two sets to make one for the SB5. I also would say a chain conversion is overdue!
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Old Apr 05, 2012, 12:50 PM
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Memphis, TN USA
Joined Apr 2009
936 Posts
crash bar nylon

I been using the greenlee 3/16" nylon fish tape. Fits SB-5 perfect and tight.tThis one http://www.harborfreight.com/50-ft-n...ape-66505.html will fit Alleven post also @ 5/32" .HF rod will fit the Alleven mount fairly well just I bit smaller than the rod supplied with the mounts. Also works for the NF rollers too a bit tight but it fits well enough.
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Old Apr 20, 2012, 06:42 AM
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Joined Aug 2011
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thought i would say hi and ask for some advice ive ran rc bike for a few months now using a tt 999 nitro ive learned a lot but got fed up with fuel and starting issue so brought a sb5 rtr its good but in the corner it wont stay in the turn and i have to hold some steering in which only ends up bouncing off the scratch bars! which where round but now im going to try squire ones to see if this helps ive also added some weight 120grams to the battery tray total weight is now 1648grams with battery im a little worryed this will affect battery duration ive added daul rates and expo to try and improve its handerling the other problem im trying to fix is the smallest of stone or bump course it to fly in to the air and cartwheel! this may be me being to triggerhappy? ive also added new grp tyres hard front and soft rear i only use this for carpark racing against a friend who has one any thoughts or sugesstions would be great thanks i havent tryed the new crashbars or weight yet but hope to tonight so i'll report back if its helpped this forum is grate for sb5 users but carnt find many tips for the rtr is there a forum i havent found yet
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Old Apr 20, 2012, 11:24 AM
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Memphis, TN USA
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Originally Posted by tomandjan View Post
thought i would say hi and ask for some advice ive ran rc bike for a few months now using a tt 999 nitro ive learned a lot but got fed up with fuel and starting issue so brought a sb5 rtr its good but in the corner it wont stay in the turn and i have to hold some steering in which only ends up bouncing off the scratch bars! which where round but now im going to try squire ones to see if this helps ive also added some weight 120grams to the battery tray total weight is now 1648grams with battery im a little worryed this will affect battery duration ive added daul rates and expo to try and improve its handerling the other problem im trying to fix is the smallest of stone or bump course it to fly in to the air and cartwheel! this may be me being to triggerhappy? ive also added new grp tyres hard front and soft rear i only use this for carpark racing against a friend who has one any thoughts or sugesstions would be great thanks i havent tryed the new crashbars or weight yet but hope to tonight so i'll report back if its helpped this forum is grate for sb5 users but carnt find many tips for the rtr is there a forum i havent found yet
The factory steering springs might be too strong for you with the plastic wheels so you could try the optional spring set and use the lighter springs. If its still not to your liking try an alloy front wheel. I think you tire combo is reversed, try a extra soft (200) up front and a soft (100) in rear for summer time. The plastic front wheel crackes easy you might not know it till you look at it closely, another reason to go with an alloy front wheel..If you install the softer tires you can get more lean angle and set your crash bars as low at they can go making turns much sharper without hitting them...I think its funny you went from a TTN to a SB-5. I bet it was a little shocking to you ..lol..you cant say anything bad about the TTN stability, like a rock because of the super heavy wheel design.
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Old Apr 20, 2012, 02:18 PM
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Joined Aug 2011
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someone sugested i take the oil out of one steering damper and a o ring witch sould help and run 1000wt in the rear and 3000wt in the front is this right two head is better than one as they say , i did get my post wrong i have a soft on the front and a med on the back is it worth using weight on the rtr to improve performance
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Old Apr 20, 2012, 02:35 PM
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Memphis, TN USA
Joined Apr 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomandjan View Post
someone sugested i take the oil out of one steering damper and a o ring witch sould help and run 1000wt in the rear and 3000wt in the front is this right two head is better than one as they say , i did get my post wrong i have a soft on the front and a med on the back is it worth using weight on the rtr to improve performance
yes, all those mods are worth doing, and use a light (25wt.) oil in the other damper. Im not sure adding weight would help you as much as the RTR does not have all the alloy gear up front but might improve stability, not sure on that one. Has anyone else dailed in a good set up for the RTR out there?
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