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Old Mar 16, 2012, 02:12 PM
www.steliosh.net/rcmoto/
steliosh's Avatar
Athens, Greece
Joined Oct 2003
3,284 Posts
yes, they do, Clark... The set-screws are digging into the plastic and then even if you have a small hole on the scratchbar itself, eventually they are lost or the threads are gone...
Next would be to drill the scratchbar AND the stand through, and pass a circlip, like Edi has done in his inside setup.
Now that we say this... hmm...
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Old Mar 16, 2012, 03:02 PM
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Gartenzwerg's Avatar
Austria
Joined Jan 2007
652 Posts
Do you move the set-screws that often?
I set them one time so that they squeeze the bar just enough to keep them in the Holder, and I'm still able to force the scratchbars out and back in.
I only had to change one scratchbar holder, after a crash on the Lostallo-Straight, at nearly Topspeed..
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Old Mar 17, 2012, 01:16 AM
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steliosh's Avatar
Athens, Greece
Joined Oct 2003
3,284 Posts
I usually also drill the scratchbars a bit, like 1-2mm deep, so the setscrew goes into the scratchbar too. So, I tighten them very lightly into the white plastic too.
My friends at my local track have the BAD HABIT of grabbing the bike by the very... convenient "handles"!!!!
Despite my shouting!!!!
Also, me being a known crasher, the scratchbars tend to go off the bike when the bike tumbles over and over...
I still have not broken any of the crashbar holders...
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Old Mar 20, 2012, 02:21 AM
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Athens, Greece
Joined Oct 2003
3,284 Posts
Out of curiosity, does the SB-5 RTR come with tires glued to the rims?
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Old Mar 20, 2012, 02:58 AM
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Gartenzwerg's Avatar
Austria
Joined Jan 2007
652 Posts
Yes, it comes with Kit-Tires glued to the one-piece Rims. So if you want to change Tires on the RTR, you need Wheel Hubs and Rims!
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Old Mar 20, 2012, 03:02 AM
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steliosh's Avatar
Athens, Greece
Joined Oct 2003
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oh... thanks!! A friend asked me about getting the RTR Brushless... and I told him about using PMT200's... you know!
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Old Mar 22, 2012, 07:05 AM
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Gecko Hunter's Avatar
Joined Sep 2010
435 Posts
Hey guys do you have a solution for the "bending" swingarm that's easy to buy and available to Australians. At the moment I have the bike setup to run like a big banana!

Cheers in advance

Scott
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Old Mar 31, 2012, 02:11 AM
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esp1972's Avatar
Joined Mar 2012
29 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by edi.winter View Post
front: Asso 3000wt
rear: Asso 1000wt
steering: only fill one with 20wt.
what about the 2nd steering damp? what wt.?
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Old Apr 01, 2012, 10:29 AM
Kungsangen, Stockholm, Sweden
z_dad's Avatar
Sweden, Upplands-Bro Municipality
Joined Dec 2011
254 Posts
2:nd steering damper

Quote:
Originally Posted by esp1972 View Post
what about the 2nd steering damp? what wt.?
As said: fill one. Only one working damper is needed for the steering action, the other one is just holding the spring but remember, you can't do without it. Both are needed but only one needs to be filled.

You empty the second damper and remove one of the o-rings, grease the shaft with green slime or something like that. This will make any steering damper tuning less complex in the future as it only involves one damper. A small bonus is that you can fine-tune the pre-tension/middle play using the sealing cap as a dial. Just be careful to do do this only to the emptied damper. Preferrably, make a clear mark to the empty one

Good luck
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Old Apr 01, 2012, 11:41 AM
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Joined Mar 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by z_dad View Post
As said: fill one. Only one working damper is needed for the steering action, the other one is just holding the spring but remember, you can't do without it. Both are needed but only one needs to be filled.

You empty the second damper and remove one of the o-rings, grease the shaft with green slime or something like that. This will make any steering damper tuning less complex in the future as it only involves one damper. A small bonus is that you can fine-tune the pre-tension/middle play using the sealing cap as a dial. Just be careful to do do this only to the emptied damper. Preferrably, make a clear mark to the empty one

Good luck
Thanks man, just tryed it works way better.
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Old Apr 02, 2012, 05:46 AM
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steliosh's Avatar
Athens, Greece
Joined Oct 2003
3,284 Posts
There's been a small talk of the SB-5's "rigidity" lately...
A quick and easy way to restore some of the bike's rigidity, follows:

I found that the four small-length bolts that secure the carbon plates on the battery box, after having been removed 3-4 times, become sloppy, due to the thread being very short.
The "problem" lies in the soft material the battery box is made of. The threads in it start losing their... thread! and with the threads being so few, it's no surprise, really...

Replacing the (relatively cheap) battery box gives us a like-new rigid bike again!
The only hassle with this is that, in my case, it must be redressed in 1.5mm thick lead sheet, which must be glued on the plastic with any kind of zappadapagoo or similar. I am running Worlds Stock, so I need the weight...

After these short bolts start coming loose, eventually some of them may be lost in the track... I found that by cutting longer M4 bolts with just 1-2mm longer thread makes them fit in there and not touch (potentially damage) the battery. A test fit will reveal if they need a bit of sanding... A bit of dremelling can cure this. I just make sure I "clean" the threads where the cut is done, by bolting a M4 nut in them, then bolt them carefully in the battery box. The M4 nut "starts" the threads where the dremel disc may have damaged them a bit.

I am talking about the M4X6 FHCS screws, as in Page 9, Step 9 of the SB-5 manual.
I am making the "new" bolts M4X7 or M4x8 and trim them a bit...
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Old Apr 02, 2012, 06:19 AM
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MARINO's Avatar
ITALY
Joined Feb 2007
90 Posts
Hello stelios stok for the road to make a TT winner SB5 and correct any manufacturing defects is to make the Council option O.L.P. & Company, besides the advantage of the rigidity of the bike you will also have the bike that is part of the weight inimo without the addition of lead ballast, and will also be much more evenly distributed over the whole bike but not just in battery holder.
This is my opinion because I saw for myself, I have confirmed to the world in Riccione,

Best regards Marino
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Old Apr 02, 2012, 01:18 PM
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steliosh's Avatar
Athens, Greece
Joined Oct 2003
3,284 Posts
Ciao Marino!
I have done this mod last year, when I raced at Lostallo, this way, and then at Riccione in October. So far, I liked it, and in the end, it's no big deal to cover a battery box with lead.
But the point was that the battery box is the weak link, here, and needs replacing after some use...
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Old Apr 03, 2012, 01:07 AM
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steliosh's Avatar
Athens, Greece
Joined Oct 2003
3,284 Posts
It seems that silently TT is listening to our observations and complaints:
I just noticed that the new top suspension arm has cutouts for the small shocks!
This part was ordered from Bruce, a couple of weeks ago...

TT Part number: PD09-0011, Front Suspension Arms
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Last edited by steliosh; Apr 03, 2012 at 01:10 AM. Reason: grammar
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Old Apr 04, 2012, 12:41 PM
never stop building
dragbikebam's Avatar
Memphis, TN USA
Joined Apr 2009
936 Posts
Is anyone having a "drag brake" effect from their tight belt setting?...mine is fairly tight and messing me up in the curves while brakeing..it just doesnt coast as well as my chain bikes...CAN WE PLEASE GET A CHAIN KIT FOR THIS THING ALREADY!!!!! I'm sorry but I'm sick of the belt. It has no benefit what so ever other than it sounds smooth, its killing the bike.....its flexing the chassis, putting more drag on the motor than a chain, it skips, it stretches, its just is not a good idea for a bike. You don't see motogp bikes with a belt do ya? Or any 1:1 race bike for that matter. When Eric Buell started racing his belt driven bike he converted it to chain drive. I know it's not the same but that should tell you something
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Last edited by dragbikebam; Apr 04, 2012 at 01:07 PM.
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