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Old Nov 24, 2011, 07:57 AM
MY '75 CZ "FALTA REPLICA" 2010
TopDave's Avatar
Waterford, Michigan
Joined May 2006
1,253 Posts
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Originally Posted by gnilre View Post
A second belt guide bearing on the top run of the belt did not help for me, just made it difficult to replace the belt when it jumper the pulley! Have a belt tensioner below too.
Just a piece of carbon plate pointing forward below the belt for closest position to the pulley. A single screw through the swingarm is enough to kep it in place. Next will be a longer swingarm side centered on a bearing outside the pulley on the layshaft. Saw this convesion at the worlds. Layshaft is just about long enough to support a bearing.
Am looking for a longer shaft, or just lengthening the original one.
Erling.
Thanks Erling! Saves me some cobble work, lol. The layshaft bearing swingarm support sounds like a great idea!
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Old Nov 26, 2011, 02:06 AM
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Copenhagen, Danmark
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You are wellcome. Picture/drawing to be found on page 33 post 483 in this thread.
Erling
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Old Nov 26, 2011, 11:13 AM
MY '75 CZ "FALTA REPLICA" 2010
TopDave's Avatar
Waterford, Michigan
Joined May 2006
1,253 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by gnilre View Post
You are wellcome. Picture/drawing to be found on page 33 post 483 in this thread.
Erling
Hi Erling,
Are you or Edi W. selling that swing arm support. Looks like it might be a great improvement of the swing arm flex issue. I want one.
I tried the longer side plate mounting bolts, and with the "high tech" thumb test, I could not determine if it was an improvement or not....lol. It still flexed, but I couldn't tell if it was stiffer or not.
How much horse power do you need to run before the arm flex becomes an issue. My bike is new so all I have run for H.P. is a puny 17.5 Novak and I haven't even had belt stretch yet. I just installed a 10.5 and i have an 8.5 ready to go.

Thanks again, Dave
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Old Nov 26, 2011, 11:29 AM
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United States, TX, Houston
Joined Dec 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TopDave View Post
Hi Erling,
Are you or Edi W. selling that swing arm support. Looks like it might be a great improvement of the swing arm flex issue. I want one.
I tried the longer side plate mounting bolts, and with the "high tech" thumb test, I could not determine if it was an improvement or not....lol. It still flexed, but I couldn't tell if it was stiffer or not.
How much horse power do you need to run before the arm flex becomes an issue. My bike is new so all I have run for H.P. is a puny 17.5 Novak and I haven't even had belt stretch yet. I just installed a 10.5 and i have an 8.5 ready to go.

Thanks again, Dave
I have the Edi block and the Zh belt tensioner on the tightest setting using a 6.5 motor. With Plastic wheels also... I have not had any issues with belt slip anymore... And the belt is super tight... at first i was nervous it would brake... Not one problem with the bike.

http://static.rcgroups.net/forums/at...7-IMG_3999.jpg
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Old Nov 26, 2011, 11:58 AM
MY '75 CZ "FALTA REPLICA" 2010
TopDave's Avatar
Waterford, Michigan
Joined May 2006
1,253 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 621clay View Post
I have the Edi block and the Zh belt tensioner on the tightest setting using a 6.5 motor. With Plastic wheels also... I have not had any issues with belt slip anymore... And the belt is super tight... at first i was nervous it would brake... Not one problem with the bike.

http://static.rcgroups.net/forums/at...7-IMG_3999.jpg
Hi Clay,
did you go straight to the 6.5 motor or did the belt slipping start with a weaker motor. How much was the Edi block shipped to you Clay? Just curious which way to go to fix the problem when I start putting some H.P. in the bike. I get down to Memphis/Nashville area a couple times a year and maybe I could add a couple days to come race with you guys sometime I hope. Thanks, Dave
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Old Nov 26, 2011, 12:23 PM
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United States, TX, Houston
Joined Dec 2009
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I went straight to a 6.5.... As i did buy a used bike also. it was not new. The Edi block was on shapeways.com and the price to have it made is shipping included. I think it was around 60 bucks and some change. i Ordered Edi's front rotor part also... Im waiting on his revised Front servo brace for the front brakes also. He makes great stuff. Also i have a Traxxas Revo Diff Spring in replacement for the Sb5 Sliper spring. The Slipper Does not Slip pretty much at all. I like to have my bike very tight and drive them Smooth... Or try to at least. I also have Turbo on my Esc but dont think it engages intime for me to notice if it even does. When i get home on my computer i can send you the link for edi's parts... Personally i think the rear block is a must!! But he makes about 6 different things for the Sb5... One of our local guys has pretty much all the parts on this SB5... Its slick. Rskip is his user name. He seems to know more about the parts then i do... i just trust his word, and try to drive every bike out that i can.
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Old Nov 27, 2011, 03:40 AM
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Copenhagen, Danmark
Joined Dec 2009
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Hallo Dave.
You are in good hands now. No, I'm not making parts for the SB5, except for my own use. If you hear no knacking noices, coming out of corners leading on to the streight, don't bother. Have only had a 6,5 in my SB5. Easily doing wheeleys like Clay, but now tamed a little after several broken frontwheels: rim, spokes, hub. Now I'm back on oldfashioned aluwheels, as I do not seem to have any real control over the little thing when doing wheeleys! Do not know a Taxxas diff spring as sugested by Clay, But it might be the same conversion I have done with a couple of belleville washers from old 1/12 pancar diff. Allowing me to shorten the layshaft now flush with the body. In a tumble, it might otherwise catch the curb and bend! Which might be bad for the gearmesh.
Erling.
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Old Nov 27, 2011, 11:05 AM
MY '75 CZ "FALTA REPLICA" 2010
TopDave's Avatar
Waterford, Michigan
Joined May 2006
1,253 Posts
Thanks Erling and Clay! Ran the bike with the 10.5 novak yesterday with a 24 pinion = quick and no wheelies and drifts out of the sweepers = fun stuff. No belt clacking or belt stretch yet with the 10.5 so I love this combo right now. Obviously in goes the 8.5 to find the next weakest link. lol.
Clay: Did you find your front brakes were better ( more consistant ) with the Edi. front rotor guide? How do you set up the brake bias front to rear to get the most consistant braking?
Thanks alot , Dave
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Old Nov 27, 2011, 11:07 PM
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United States, TX, Houston
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TopDave View Post
Thanks Erling and Clay! Ran the bike with the 10.5 novak yesterday with a 24 pinion = quick and no wheelies and drifts out of the sweepers = fun stuff. No belt clacking or belt stretch yet with the 10.5 so I love this combo right now. Obviously in goes the 8.5 to find the next weakest link. lol.
Clay: Did you find your front brakes were better ( more consistant ) with the Edi. front rotor guide? How do you set up the brake bias front to rear to get the most consistant braking?
Thanks alot , Dave
never had a chance to try iy out. installed it right at the start. as for the bias... im at my g/f's house but if i had to guess... the esc is 100%, radio is 87%/140% total epa.... the front is using the largest cam on the servo horn and i have the front at...... 60% or so... i would have to check that one... i know i rely on the rear right now because im not happy with the front brakes atm. Also i will try the ABS step up soon, because i catch myself pulsing the brakes in the straight before the right sweeper. If i lock it up, all things go wrong.
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Old Nov 28, 2011, 12:46 AM
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United States, TX, Houston
Joined Jun 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TopDave View Post
Thanks Erling and Clay! Ran the bike with the 10.5 novak yesterday with a 24 pinion = quick and no wheelies and drifts out of the sweepers = fun stuff. No belt clacking or belt stretch yet with the 10.5 so I love this combo right now. Obviously in goes the 8.5 to find the next weakest link. lol.
Clay: Did you find your front brakes were better ( more consistant ) with the Edi. front rotor guide? How do you set up the brake bias front to rear to get the most consistant braking?
Thanks alot , Dave
I believe the front rotor guide solves a very specific problem. If you experience front lockups during sudden transitions, tank slappers, or high lean turns -then this piece will help you out. Other than those situations, the braking seems to remain the same. Edi can probably add some more if you contact him.

Others may have different approaches to setting up brakes, here is my approach.

I start off setting up my brake with no front brakes first. I adjust the rear brake so I don't get any rear wiggle at full brake from the straight. Then I give it a few rounds in the corners and may tone it down a little more if I find it too easy to lock up there. Then I start adding front brake until I get front end washout in the corners and begin reducing the front brakes until it's gone. At this point I start fine tuning (small adjustments) - which usually ends up with slightly less rear brake then when I started adjusting the front end.

Some other additional tips:
I try to setup the rear brakes from the transmitter instead of the esc - this gives you more control for adjusting.

Be aware that brake temperature can affect your final adjustments - so give a few laps before final tuning.

Do some full circuits for final tuning - you may believe all the squirelliness is gone until you hit a low grip corner.

Be familiar with your radio for the adjustments. The front brake servo is usually adjusted as a function of the reverse signal. With that said, you still have to be aware how subtrim will affect the engagement point of the front servo and different radios handle applying exponential to the third channel differently (or in my case - not at all).

The amount of front brake available on the SB5 seems to be limited mechanically by flex in the servo mounting.

I've had good results using a G10 disk (custom made by Mantisworx) and a different servo (airtronics 94809 - not a direct fit).

I've seen people setup there brakes more aggressively for those oh-$**t moments. But in my experience - too aggressive can make those moments worse or even cause them.

-Rskip
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Last edited by rskip; Nov 28, 2011 at 12:54 AM.
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Old Nov 28, 2011, 04:25 PM
MY '75 CZ "FALTA REPLICA" 2010
TopDave's Avatar
Waterford, Michigan
Joined May 2006
1,253 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by rskip View Post
I believe the front rotor guide solves a very specific problem. If you experience front lockups during sudden transitions, tank slappers, or high lean turns -then this piece will help you out. Other than those situations, the braking seems to remain the same. Edi can probably add some more if you contact him.

Others may have different approaches to setting up brakes, here is my approach.

I start off setting up my brake with no front brakes first. I adjust the rear brake so I don't get any rear wiggle at full brake from the straight. Then I give it a few rounds in the corners and may tone it down a little more if I find it too easy to lock up there. Then I start adding front brake until I get front end washout in the corners and begin reducing the front brakes until it's gone. At this point I start fine tuning (small adjustments) - which usually ends up with slightly less rear brake then when I started adjusting the front end.

Some other additional tips:
I try to setup the rear brakes from the transmitter instead of the esc - this gives you more control for adjusting.

Be aware that brake temperature can affect your final adjustments - so give a few laps before final tuning.

Do some full circuits for final tuning - you may believe all the squirelliness is gone until you hit a low grip corner.

Be familiar with your radio for the adjustments. The front brake servo is usually adjusted as a function of the reverse signal. With that said, you still have to be aware how subtrim will affect the engagement point of the front servo and different radios handle applying exponential to the third channel differently (or in my case - not at all).

The amount of front brake available on the SB5 seems to be limited mechanically by flex in the servo mounting.

I've had good results using a G10 disk (custom made by Mantisworx) and a different servo (airtronics 94809 - not a direct fit).

I've seen people setup there brakes more aggressively for those oh-$**t moments. But in my experience - too aggressive can make those moments worse or even cause them.

-Rskip
Thanks Rskip, for taking the time to type all that good info for me (and all the bikers that need the info to help speed up thier learning curve). Gonna hope that 2-3 inches of snow stays away tommorrow so us snow belt folks can get another out door run or two in this year! Seems like that rotor guide would eliminate 1 or 2 possible irregularities that might intermittantly knock the bike down for that "mystery" crash we all enjoy. Guess we should try it.
Thanks again! Dave
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Old Nov 28, 2011, 09:44 PM
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Perth, Western Australia
Joined Sep 2006
44 Posts
I finally fitted Edi's Front disc guide and Rear Swingarm box on the bike on the weekend and after giving it a thorough workout on Sunday, happy to say they're pretty sweet.

Had to add a few very small washers to space the guide to run without rubbing against the side of the servo, but nothing major.

Runs well, no slipping on the belt anymore and front brakes are smooth-as.
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Last edited by Badmotor; Nov 28, 2011 at 09:44 PM. Reason: Speeling?
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Old Nov 30, 2011, 10:09 AM
MY '75 CZ "FALTA REPLICA" 2010
TopDave's Avatar
Waterford, Michigan
Joined May 2006
1,253 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Badmotor View Post
I finally fitted Edi's Front disc guide and Rear Swingarm box on the bike on the weekend and after giving it a thorough workout on Sunday, happy to say they're pretty sweet.

Had to add a few very small washers to space the guide to run without rubbing against the side of the servo, but nothing major.

Runs well, no slipping on the belt anymore and front brakes are smooth-as.
Just ordered the Edi box and disc guide. Wifey gonna shoot me! lol. Better sell something quick!
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Old Nov 30, 2011, 11:33 AM
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Tirol
Joined Jul 2009
1,109 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Badmotor View Post

Had to add a few very small washers to space the guide to run without rubbing against the side of the servo, but nothing major.
You might want to check if the Brake servo holder is bent inwards as described here:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=227
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=231
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=233
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Old Nov 30, 2011, 08:00 PM
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Perth, Western Australia
Joined Sep 2006
44 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by edi.winter View Post
Cheers Edi. But I'm guessing the zh front fork (should have mentioned I am using that before) is spaced differently to the standard.
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