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Old Dec 20, 2010, 03:56 AM
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edi.winter's Avatar
Tirol
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Well THATS a wall full of money, all I have to show are used tires and my bikes.
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Old Dec 20, 2010, 04:05 AM
www.steliosh.net/rcmoto/
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Athens, Greece
Joined Oct 2003
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It's not exactly that, since I own these vehicles from new! My first ever was the Marui LC, bought as a kit in 1987!!!
They are worthless in money-terms, most are used and abused, but their sentimental value is priceless to me!!!!
Mind you, not all of the vehicles are runners... Only 5-7 of them are...
End off off-topic!!!
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Old Dec 20, 2010, 10:56 AM
I'm hooked on RC Moto
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Berkeley
Joined Jun 2006
1,145 Posts
That is a very nice display Steliosh.

You have good organizational skills...
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Old Dec 23, 2010, 03:02 PM
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steve croston's Avatar
Joined Nov 2009
73 Posts
Can someone help me out ?


ez 10 turn motor
lipo
mtroniks g2 esc
futaba 3cvs

When Ive finished fitting the brake I tried it out and I have found the front brake survo gets really hot. I have tried turning down the brakes on the esc and this has not helped I have already burnt 1 survo trying to sort this out.
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Old Dec 23, 2010, 06:40 PM
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Joined Nov 2004
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I burned out my stock brake servo in less than a week. It's been replaced by an Airtronics (Sanwa) 94091, which has worked well since. In fact, the Air servo was so cheap, I picked up a spare to keep in the pit box.
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Old Dec 23, 2010, 09:37 PM
DLAWW
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Socal
Joined Dec 2005
768 Posts
Lito what servo horn is that on the SB brake kit, that does not look like the one I recieved.
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Old Dec 23, 2010, 10:18 PM
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That is the servo horn that came with the Airtronics servo.

That horn had six lobes originally; I just cut off three of them.
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Old Dec 24, 2010, 02:37 AM
www.steliosh.net/rcmoto/
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Athens, Greece
Joined Oct 2003
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Some minor questions to those who are already built and ran their SB-5's...

I'm currently doing the bodywork... There are two body posts that would require drilling the rider's knees to pass trough. Are these of any use, or you can leave his knees undrilled and let the bodyposts just support the knees in case of a crash?
I guess if I drill these and use r-clips, these will be the first to get lost!!! Right?!

Another one... I tried mounting my Xerun 120A speedo in there and it's JUST 2mm wider than the space available. So, it has to seat itself at the front of the tray. However, when the bike is in the air, front suspension extended, the steering servo wires kink against the speedo fan... The servo is a "normal" sized DS1015. Maybe a low profile Savox 1251 (is that right?) would cure this? I'd hate to have to buy another ESC, right now!!!!
I'm going sensored with the 5.5T and a 6.5T motors I use in my TC... Also, in case of going stock 17.5T I will again have to go sensored, so the Genesis Ride/5700kv sensorless is out of the question for now...
(I have two of these, one in my Firestorm, in a desperate attempt to try and race my son's Flux equipped EFS (!) and another one in my Anderson M5 cross... I guess the EFS's one would get out, the Anderson is more... fun! I might try to swap electronics, of course, and use the Xerun/6.5T in the EFS... decisions-decisions!!!)

And then, there's the question of where to hang the capacitors! Both the Xerun and the Genesis ride have big capacitors not mounted on the ESC!
While looking at the bike without ESC and motor, space seems as big as a touring car's, then when trying to squeeze all those cables, suddenly space it at a premium!!!!

One more... now that I look at the bike... Is the supplied crash bar rod sturdy enough for a start, or should I get me some white one?

(Waiting for PMT tires, now from Formby, so the bike will NOT run, not even next week, I presume, being this time of year, the mail services will go to snail pace!)
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Old Dec 24, 2010, 04:51 AM
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sweden
Joined Jan 2008
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Merry christmas steliosh.Just drill out for the bodyposts.I had no problems with the bodyposts or the r-clips.Im using the mtroniks g2 speedo and its also abit tight to mount,when using a standard size servo.Im using the sav÷x mg1251.I have my capacitor in front of the speedo.Check also the ride hight both front and rear.40-43 front and 48-50 rear.And i also limitated the drop by installing 2 small o-rings in the front shocks under the pistons.Try this mod before you get another servo.It might work.And the crash bars are ok.
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Old Dec 24, 2010, 07:24 AM
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Copenhagen, Danmark
Joined Dec 2009
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Hallo Stelios. You might reposition the bodyposts. Lower by some 20mm, and 22mm to the fore, giving a distance between them some 32 mm, and shorten them some 10mm!
This way the body is a bit easier to pul off or up whichesever you call it.
It is drivers hands which wears out first trom crashes!!
Happy Cristmas and New Year from Erling.
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Old Dec 24, 2010, 07:25 AM
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edi.winter's Avatar
Tirol
Joined Jul 2009
1,104 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by steve croston View Post
Can someone help me out ?


ez 10 turn motor
lipo
mtroniks g2 esc
futaba 3cvs

When Ive finished fitting the brake I tried it out and I have found the front brake survo gets really hot. I have tried turning down the brakes on the esc and this has not helped I have already burnt 1 survo trying to sort this out.
Buy a other servo, the stock one is rubbish.
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Old Dec 24, 2010, 08:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edi.winter View Post
Buy a other servo, the stock one is rubbish.
hi edi which servo do you use?
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Old Dec 24, 2010, 03:57 PM
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Torrance's Avatar
Joined May 2009
661 Posts
the TT micro servo has some compatibility issues with some 2.4G radios. sometimes it vibrates at a high frequency which causes it to get hot even when it's just turned on without even applying the brakes. this happens more with the metal gear version. since it's not a digital servo it can't handle the fast settings on some radios that were made for digitals. if your radio has an option for a slower frequency then this could cure the problem. on my bike i use the plastic gear version of the servo with a Spektrum radio system and haven't had any troubles. i've had the same servo installed since Leipzig last year.

i told TT to find a solution for the micro servos before i left them. their electrical engineers have found the solution but whether the factory implemented them or not i don't know.
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Old Dec 24, 2010, 03:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gnilre View Post
Hallo Stelios. You might reposition the bodyposts. Lower by some 20mm, and 22mm to the fore, giving a distance between them some 32 mm, and shorten them some 10mm!
This way the body is a bit easier to pul off or up whichesever you call it.
It is drivers hands which wears out first trom crashes!!
Happy Cristmas and New Year from Erling.
wow! the great Erling has one of my bikes... i'm truly honored.
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Old Dec 25, 2010, 12:09 AM
www.steliosh.net/rcmoto/
steliosh's Avatar
Athens, Greece
Joined Oct 2003
3,263 Posts
I've met Erling at the Worlds and we had a fascinating conversation on bikes and rc bikes!
Thanks for the advice Erling!
And Merry Christmas to you too!
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