HobbyKing.com New Products Flash Sale
Reply
Thread Tools
Old Sep 19, 2010, 04:33 PM
UAV Pilot
UndCon's Avatar
sweden
Joined May 2007
994 Posts
2S for the small indoor quad yes...3S on the outdoor versions (I already have 3S alarms at home)

About LCD...no I do not see any difference on LED so It means I never reaches the config & LCDenabled...

here you see my stick...full up/right (pitch 2009/ roll 2009)



and autolevel enabled...2099

Do I have to increase values even beyond that? 127% atm...(125% gives full 1-2ms)
UndCon is offline Find More Posts by UndCon
Last edited by UndCon; Sep 19, 2010 at 04:49 PM.
Reply With Quote
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Old Sep 19, 2010, 04:49 PM
Registered User
Alexinparis's Avatar
Paris, France
Joined Jun 2009
756 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by UndCon View Post
2S for the small indoor quad yes...3S on the outdoor versions (I already have 3S alarms at home)

About LCD...no I do not see any difference on LED so It means I never reaches the config & LCDenabled...

here you see my stick...full up/right (2009/2009)



and autolevel enabled...2099

Do I have to increase values even beyond that? 127% atm...
maybe a hint:
// *****************
// LCD configuration
// *****************
// 1000000 / 9600 = 104 microseconds at 9600 baud.
// the minimum supported value is 96 for sparkfun serial LCD
// we set it at the minimum to take some margin with the running interrupts


I wrote this before the new code for I2C.
There is now less interrupts, and 96 could be too low for some LCD.
You can try to change this value, something between 96 and 104
#define BITDELAY 96


EDIT:
Quote:
About LCD...no I do not see any difference on LED so It means I never reaches the config & LCDenabled...

here you see my stick...full up/right (pitch 2009/ roll 2009)
the right command is full pitch up + full yaw right
Alexinparis is offline Find More Posts by Alexinparis
Last edited by Alexinparis; Sep 19, 2010 at 04:58 PM.
Reply With Quote
Old Sep 19, 2010, 05:20 PM
UAV Pilot
UndCon's Avatar
sweden
Joined May 2007
994 Posts
hmm - and I have roll and yaw mixed up..I have been watching your video over and over...

The problem here seems to be that I have a MODE 2 radio...

Throttle and rudd(yaw) on the left stick...

I have to move both sticks on my radio to enter config - you only move 1 stick in video...

while in config - now that my LCD is working

I change from P to I to D with my right stick and I also change values with same stick...

So we need some documentation that shows what stick does what on the radio (mode1 and mode2)

Here is what I have been looking at
This obviously small issue has been my problem the whole time
UndCon is offline Find More Posts by UndCon
Last edited by UndCon; Sep 19, 2010 at 05:26 PM.
Reply With Quote
Old Sep 19, 2010, 05:25 PM
Respect our earth !
Belgium / Europe
Joined Dec 2009
61 Posts
I will even insist : the setup command is a sequence, not only a combination !

Consider that :
- the "pitch" is used like a function selector following its position.
- the Yaw = ENTER or EXIT the selected function (can also ON/OFF motors).

The right sequence is

1) Full pitch up (high value on the GUI)
then
2) Full yaw right (high value on the GUI)
*) Throttle must however remain low at all time
Logiq is offline Find More Posts by Logiq
Reply With Quote
Old Sep 19, 2010, 05:28 PM
Registered User
Alexinparis's Avatar
Paris, France
Joined Jun 2009
756 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by UndCon View Post
hmm - and I have roll and yaw mixed up..I have been watching your video over and over...
Yes, you're right, I should precise I have a mode 1 radio in my video
Alexinparis is offline Find More Posts by Alexinparis
Reply With Quote
Old Sep 19, 2010, 05:54 PM
Respect our earth !
Belgium / Europe
Joined Dec 2009
61 Posts
NK - Accelerometer What's inside ?

The NK (Nunchuk) uses capacitive accelerometers.
In the very small component only 3x3x1 mm
up to 5x5x1 mm following model, there is a tiny box.
Inside that box is a little piece of material mounted on
a flexible support. As the component's position changes,
that little piece of material moves and changes 3 capacitors
values. Now you understand that this component, even
if it seems to be a very sturdy semiconductor, it contains
something that doesn't like to be shacked like a coconut.
I measured on my poorly balanced propeller tricopter,
some values like moving +/- 60° 150 times a second.
Even if you soften such a signal, it can only output,
"Help ! I'm a overexcited coconut"

It's why the way you fix the NK on the frame is determining
the output quality. Alex seems to have affordable results
on a 4mm foam. I made experiments with up to 12 mm
latex foam + adding extra 70 gr ballast on the NK and
obtained acceptable results, but not yet perfect at all.
Logiq is offline Find More Posts by Logiq
Reply With Quote
Old Sep 19, 2010, 06:20 PM
FPV Junkie
tazdevil's Avatar
somewhere in space
Joined Aug 2006
671 Posts
maybe it's a way to help ( seen on a shredikette) :





we need to fix nk on the batery directly

Quote:
Originally Posted by Logiq View Post
NK - Accelerometer What's inside ?

The NK (Nunchuk) uses capacitive accelerometers.
In the very small component only 3x3x1 mm
up to 5x5x1 mm following model, there is a tiny box.
Inside that box is a little piece of material mounted on
a flexible support. As the component's position changes,
that little piece of material moves and changes 3 capacitors
values. Now you understand that this component, even
if it seems to be a very sturdy semiconductor, it contains
something that doesn't like to be shacked like a coconut.
I measured on my poorly balanced propeller tricopter,
some values like moving +/- 60° 150 times a second.
Even if you soften such a signal, it can only output,
"Help ! I'm a overexcited coconut"

It's why the way you fix the NK on the frame is determining
the output quality. Alex seems to have affordable results
on a 4mm foam. I made experiments with up to 12 mm
latex foam + adding extra 70 gr ballast on the NK and
obtained acceptable results, but not yet perfect at all.
tazdevil is offline Find More Posts by tazdevil
Reply With Quote
Old Sep 19, 2010, 07:20 PM
//----\\
Coil's Avatar
Slovenia
Joined Mar 2008
676 Posts
Thanks to all, for great work with this project !!

I'm not an expert, but is there a way to implement some other accelerometer that is not so sensible to vibration, or this is software related?

MK uses LIS344ALH accelerometer and it is no were near that sensible to vibrations.

My origianl MP is on my desk just waiting for arduino board to arrive, than i can start building my tri.
Coil is offline Find More Posts by Coil
Last edited by Coil; Sep 19, 2010 at 07:41 PM.
Reply With Quote
Old Sep 19, 2010, 10:11 PM
Registered User
Joined Mar 2007
484 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Logiq View Post
UndCon,


JimnAz
Happy end
Honestly I was convinced that it was related to storage.
We must find a kind of Flash-Erase procedure.
I had several problems at each TriWii upgrading with disabled PID
due to the EEPROM.
I think being able to clear or erase the eeprom would be a plus. I see that in BaronPilot, Francesco uses the eeprom.write command to send a 0,0 to invalidate the "Magical Number". Could we incorporate this as a command like the READ and WRITE option on the GUI?

Jim
JimnAz is offline Find More Posts by JimnAz
Reply With Quote
Old Sep 20, 2010, 12:02 AM
UAV Pilot
UndCon's Avatar
sweden
Joined May 2007
994 Posts
I also had to reverse the Yaw channel...

I saw another solution where the electronics were isolated with silicon tubing

(see pictures in swedish forum here)

I think it's all to find the right combination of materials, foam, silicon tubing and similar materials
UndCon is offline Find More Posts by UndCon
Reply With Quote
Old Sep 20, 2010, 02:13 AM
Registered User
berkely's Avatar
Belgium, Flemish Region, coast
Joined Nov 2009
219 Posts
The Nunchuck is normally not suffering from vibrations because it's designed to work in a perfect vibration damper, the human hand. Maybe we can manage to get it under control.
We want mainly stabilisation for AP & FPV so we need a perfect stable solution. I see that Ciskje from the Baronpilot project is leaving the Nunchuk behind & is working now with a ADXL335.

Keep in mind that professional vibrating dampeners are rather expensive so let the good ideas coming
berkely is offline Find More Posts by berkely
Reply With Quote
Old Sep 20, 2010, 02:28 AM
Respect our earth !
Belgium / Europe
Joined Dec 2009
61 Posts
NK vibrations insulation
Finding the good material is a start. Personally I must reduce the vibrations
sources, Turnygy TR2204-14T are not qualitative enough to comply with my project.

- The outrunning cage is floating to much, the bearings are too bad.
- The prop-saver system is not fitting 100% my 8x4 props
- Alex uses the EPP-7035 props, centering better on the motor head,
turning faster, blades are lighter and balanced better.
- in short : I do not have the good thrust source.

If you look at all good working Mikrokopter or Shrediquette, they all use fastened propeller on a quality brushless motor.

Who can suggest well manufactured motors for this frame.
Considering :
KV 1200 - 1500
Weight 25 - 55 gr
3S suppl
< 10 A current
Logiq is offline Find More Posts by Logiq
Reply With Quote
Old Sep 20, 2010, 02:42 AM
UAV Pilot
UndCon's Avatar
sweden
Joined May 2007
994 Posts
the 2204's intergrated propsaver fits really nice to slowflyer props but not to 8*4's

as with most Turnigy motors it's a matter of hit and miss...I guess we get what we pay for..

all my 2204's are OK, a bit different sounds generated from them, and a few of my buddies had bad samples where magnets were dragging, bad bearings...

You can replace bearings...
UndCon is offline Find More Posts by UndCon
Reply With Quote
Old Sep 20, 2010, 02:59 AM
Caution: Noob in training
Brisbane, Australia
Joined Jun 2007
858 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Logiq View Post
Turnygy TR2204-14T are not qualitative enough to comply with my project.
Oh well. I'll give ya $10 to take the pieces of junk off your hands.

Like Alex, I'm just after a flyer, not FPV/AP (well, maybe a little AP), so can live with some vibrations; can't be any worse than the heli I've been flying for the past two years.

Alex, you say that with the NK there are two modes, acro and auto-stable; can you fly acrobatically with the auto-level turned on? Theoretically I don't see why not, shouldn't try to auto-level unless you release the sticks, but wondering why you've made the distinction?
RoGuE_StreaK is offline Find More Posts by RoGuE_StreaK
Reply With Quote
Old Sep 20, 2010, 03:06 AM
Friend is a 4 letter word...
JussiH's Avatar
3rd stone from the sun
Joined May 2007
2,644 Posts
Hi guys...

Been to the south of England for Goodwood Revival this weekend. 2 days of great classic car racing and a multitude of very rare classic cars.....so that why I havent been answering.

@ Jim: I will post closeups of the motor mount later today....

@ Joel: I have good results with KDA 20-22L on quads. My tri uses AXN800, but the bearings in those are very poor. But with replacing them its a very good motor. I am also hearing good things about the RCtimer range of motors, but I havent gotten around to try them yet. Scorpion also does some low-KV motors for multirotors, but of course they are very expensive. I have yet to see a motor that did not require balancing....

I use both Turnigy Plush and Mystery Blue ESCīs. I prefer the Plush, though. I have used HD 2213MG and 2217MG servos, but I also recommend the Ino-lab or Hyperion Atlas ranges of digital servos.

Maybe an alternative Accel (but lets not proceed into other accels until every option with NK has been Exhausted....):

http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/pro...oducts_id=9156
JussiH is offline Find More Posts by JussiH
RCG Plus Member
Reply


Thread Tools