Originally Posted by reverendrichie

I have made several attempts, but I can not resolve the Servo Jitter problem. The Jitter introduces too much Jello. For right now, I placed the stabilization mount on hold.

There are several things working against this system working well.

1) The servo update rate is too slow (~50 hz I think) causing "jitter" This can be changed in the code.
2) The biggest problem is the fact the sensors are not mounted on the camera(what you are trying to stabilize) so calibrating the system to be stable (correct mechanical gain) will require precise rotary control linkages of just the right ratios.

The cheap and simple and best solution is to mount a couple $12 gyros on the camera or build up another arduwiimo for that purpose. Then the feedback automaticly goes to the gyro so mechanical linkage gains are no longer critical.

I will be getting my motors and esc's soon from the slow boat from China, and when i do i want to get my quad flying.
Could someone be kind enough to explain how to change the PID settings in the GUI.

thanks

Originally Posted by reverendrichie

Peer, this is ingenious and it resolves a problem I have. Now I can do a direct drive motor tilt. thank you.

Originally Posted by noobee

what is the servo coupler made from?

Guys, here's an option from ServoCity that might be worth a look...

Originally Posted by cass3825

Guys, here's an option from ServoCity that might be worth a look...

BINGO!!!!!!!

Thank you!

Enjoy... or not...


Hat Cam PID:

P = Pilot, hey that's me, fly the damn thing
I = I gotta aim the camera too??? oh that's what the zip tie poking me in the eye is for!!!
D = Dumb, this is really dumb... I can barely fly and I look stoopid with a camera on my hat!!

y6.wmv (3 min 29 sec)

I'm thinking about selling this, I'm ready to build a collective machine.. anyone interested??

Very cool! How's it do with 5 motored?

Anyone know how to set the baro? Is there any config for it?how's it work?

Originally Posted by Centurian

Got a chance to get out to some wide open space today, the nicest day of the year yet!!!

While flying big smooth aerobatics, I found the downfall of a large negative "D" coefficient. Trying to do smooth loops & rolls, the "D" makes manouvers look knotchy as D resists changes in control rate. Example, while doing rolls, a small change in stick input results in no control rate change until some threshold is reached, then the control rate jumps to a different rate rather than making a smooth control rate transition. In the simplest terms I can say, a large negative D results in a knotchy control rate response. This makes sense mathmaticly and proves out in flight testing.

I reduced the negativness(I'll buy alex a beer if he takes that sign out of the gui) of D from -40 to -30 and am again happy with how my largish (32.5" motor to motor) tri flys.

While the above is true, if you're not flying aerobatics, I still see a big negative D as a good thing.

Ohhh...look at that Y6 ... i really gotta improve my finishing... look how nice it looks compared to mine...

Originally Posted by Centurian

Enjoy... or not...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8krF2F4MnM0

I'm thinking about selling this, I'm ready to build a collective machine.. anyone interested??

Centurian,

Could you send me a screenshot of your PID settings?

Your Y6 seems to be about the same size and configuration of min... would help me a lot..

Thanks

Guys...

I would really like your feedback on the video i posted earlier today..

Please let me know what you think, specially about the PID configuration, as i mention in the video, it has been hard to try and get it right, since the craft behaves totally different while connected to the USB and while not.

I know i´m new here, but it took me a year and a half to get my Y6 to the point it is now on the video. I started building it from scratch when all this "multirotor fever" was just starting to happen and people had to code their own way thru building any of these crafts, until i found Alex´s code and gave up on reinventing the wheel, as everything was already done by someone else, and working.

Anyway, it might not look as good as yours, but i worked hard on this and would like to know what you think..

Ok just watched the vid.
One, awesome powered folding mech! Thats just a cool feature.

Second, I have no idea what would make it behave differently when hooked to the usb. Only thing that comes to mind is maybe a ground / power issue. Do you have all your ESC grounds, Rx ground, arduino ground and WM+ ground hooked together? And only one ESC BEC going to the RAW input of the Arduino?

Hard to tell from a video but when it is 'working' how hard does it fight movement? It seemed like you were able to move it around pretty easily. Also make sure you are moving the throttle up some tfor tests as the controller will not affect the ESCs if throttle is at minimum. (You probably knew that but better safe then sorry. )

Originally Posted by Centurian

Enjoy... or not...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8krF2F4MnM0

I'm thinking about selling this, I'm ready to build a collective machine.. anyone interested??

looks good and stable, do you have a build blog on your try6? id love to see and hear of how its made? parts used and such.

it would make a nice camera platform

Originally Posted by captaingeek

Very cool! How's it do with 5 motored?

Anyone know how to set the baro? Is there any config for it?how's it work?

paypal me a set of props and we'll find out I'll probably try it sooner than later

Originally Posted by rollinolin

PID settings in GUI
I will be getting my motors and esc's soon from the slow boat from China, and when i do i want to get my quad flying.
Could someone be kind enough to explain how to change the PID settings in the GUI.

thanks

If you mean how to you just have to press read button in the GUI, drag the value of each parameter with your mouse and press the button write. That will write the new parameters into the EEprom. If you mean how to calculate value, you should read the first pages of that thread.

Originally Posted by richardkalaf

Centurian,

Could you send me a screenshot of your PID settings?

Your Y6 seems to be about the same size and configuration of min... would help me a lot..

Thanks

I would recommend ditching the 3 blade props. At a minimum make sure they are WELL balanced. Run one motor at a time, feel the boom and compair to other motors... vibrations are your WORST enemy!

I think mine is bigger dia, so my PID values might not be much use.

This is the settings in the video, not perfect, but pretty close, I think the P is a bit high on pitch & roll.

Your machine is very cool, I've considered CG adjustment methods, but so far I've just been moving batteries. I like cool gadgets, but anything I build to fly I try to "build in lightness" If it don't make it fly better, it don't belong on an aircraft!!!

I had some "fun" getting this thing set up. There is a known issue:
http://http://www.rcgroups.com/forum...postcount=5877

from my active code:

 #if NUMBER_MOTOR == 6
    atomicPWM_PIN5_highState = (motor[5]-1000)/4+4; // dea changes per alex http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=5877
    atomicPWM_PIN5_lowState = 255-atomicPWM_PIN5_highState;
    atomicPWM_PIN6_highState = (motor[4]-1000)/4+4;
    atomicPWM_PIN6_lowState = 255-atomicPWM_PIN6_highState;
  #endif

I choose to run different prop orientations that required some sign changes in the motor calcs. I also mounted my computer on the bottom, so I had to change some gyro signs as well.

I have extensions on my ESC's and at some point I got them crossed!! I would suggest running one motor at a time and make sure things are ok. It's hard to tell with the coaxial motors what's really going on. It is a bit daunting to run a Y6 on a 4 ft USB cable with one hand on the tx over my cluttred work bench

I can't really think of anything else that might be of help to you... I'm more than happy to help, ask away, here or PM.

Doug

then I better optimize my AERODUINO for MultiWii?