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Old Jul 29, 2010, 07:09 AM
I think my wheels fell off.
Thumb_number's Avatar
Perth
Joined Oct 2009
894 Posts
Hello Alex and all.

After reading with great interest, I find myself with a burning desire to build my first tri, and after reading your project notes Alex, I will use your excellent TriWii set up. Your very detailed web page has given me more than enough information to have the confidence to feel I can be successful with this project. Progress has stopped at the frame, Sparkfun stuff will be here soon, and the HK stuff is on backorder. My important parts include:

Turnigy 2206(1130Kv) with 10 x 3.7
HK SS 18-20Amp ESC
Dragonlink LRS via Futaba 7C
(using your parts list for the brain, Mini pro and non cloned WMP)

If anyone see's any potential issues with the above equipment please advise.

I do have just some quick questions which I haven't been able to find answers to:

1. Will the ESC settings need to be changed running the 18-20A SS instead of the SS 8-10A?

2. Is there anything I should do during the WMP + Audrino build phase that will make the Nunchuk upgrade easier when it is ready to go?

Thanks for the great project and info.

George.
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Old Jul 29, 2010, 01:15 PM
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Paris, France
Joined Jun 2009
756 Posts
@420RcPilot
I think a nunchuk version should be ready in less than one month.
The GUI and serial communication is ready for it.
The nunchuk decode code is ready, but I have to rebuild another tri for this and to do some integration + a lot of test.

@garindo:
nice ! I'm waiting to see it outdoor

@thumb:
I think SS 8-10A and SS 18-20A share the same processor and the same soft. There shouldn't be any differences to use it.
For the nunchuk upgrade, I will use the extension port of the WM+ (so it's better to not recover it by wires), and I will use the digital pin 6 for the RX channel 5. The rest should remain unchanged.


Yesterday, I did something crazy: a full throttle looping with a diameter of 50 meters. LEDs are almost mandatory to still have a good visualization.
The last version handles very well the full throttle situation.
I'm now fluent in basic 3D: flip front, flip back, flip right, flip left, looping front, looping back, barrel and immelman
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Old Jul 29, 2010, 02:15 PM
Speed Nut
Joined Jan 2010
479 Posts
Hello Alex,
great progress on your controller, love the fiberglass tricopter, and will wait for accel development.

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Old Jul 30, 2010, 09:36 AM
Friend is a 4 letter word...
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3rd stone from the sun
Joined May 2007
2,671 Posts
Alex, Iīll be looking forward to having accels as well...

I am assuming you will use the pass-through method for nunchuk (same as Aeroquad and BaronPilot)...?

Thanks

Jussi
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Old Jul 30, 2010, 02:07 PM
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Joined Jan 2008
235 Posts
Hi Alex, Thanks for an excellent project.I just got my Nano v3 programmed with v2.1 & hooked up to the WM+ clone. All is well ... The GUI is really useful. I'm using fs-r6a receiver (hobbycity 2.4ghz 6ch with no problems so far). The WM+ clone seems ok on test so far at least, but I'm glad you've done the separate PID control for each axis, as the pitch axis on my WM+ clone seems a bit less sensitive than the roll axis. Just need to make a new frame, as my existing tri (1 Kg flying weight, 55cm motor to centre) is home to a KKcontroller at present. Can't wait for you to get the acc's integrated. I like the look of the complementary filtering code William Thielke's written for integrating his acc's on shrediquette...
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Old Jul 30, 2010, 05:01 PM
FPV Junkie
tazdevil's Avatar
somewhere in space
Joined Aug 2006
675 Posts
hi Alex, I do my first flip today with triwii, new yaw mecanical is working fine and I can do what I want

need to test new soft with onboard expo.

my triwiii is nunchunk ready if you want a beta tester ,I'm your man

++

next step, integrate triwii imu on my shredikette frame, I've got the acc of the shredi who is deadI don't now why. Another reason to test it ;
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Old Jul 30, 2010, 11:21 PM
Ready to fly MRs
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Swanton, OH
Joined Jul 2007
5,069 Posts
I have a random question. Can I just directly solder the USB FTDI board (which normally plugs into header pins) directly to the Ardunio board? As long as the USB cable isn't connected to it, I should be ok right? I don't want to have it go into some weird programming mode if I solder it to always be on there to make it easy to plug in. Sorry I don't have much experience with the Arduinos.
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Old Jul 30, 2010, 11:59 PM
five by five
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Panama City Bch, FL
Joined Jan 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sid3ways View Post
I have a random question. Can I just directly solder the USB FTDI board (which normally plugs into header pins) directly to the Ardunio board? As long as the USB cable isn't connected to it, I should be ok right? I don't want to have it go into some weird programming mode if I solder it to always be on there to make it easy to plug in. Sorry I don't have much experience with the Arduinos.
yes. but then its not available to program another arduino, or debrick a router, etc.

what arduino are you using? many have the ftdi chip built into the design. duemilanove, nano, seeeduino, etc...
-sj
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Old Jul 31, 2010, 12:22 AM
Ready to fly MRs
Sid3ways's Avatar
Swanton, OH
Joined Jul 2007
5,069 Posts
I'm using the pro mini which is what Alex built this around. I guess I'll just stick with the header pins. I was going to go lazy since I couldn't find any header pins, but found an old sound blaster card which has some that I'll desolder off the board and use.

Thanks sj.
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Old Jul 31, 2010, 04:02 AM
five by five
sonicj's Avatar
Panama City Bch, FL
Joined Jan 2009
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alex, i read the following on your site and had a thought...
Quote:
But I observed a very annoying behavior with Turnigy Plush ESCs: once it is set under the running limit, but the ESC reaction time to return into the running range is very high, causing crashing oscillations.
this sounds like the "soft start" feature is enabled on your plush escs! are you sure the soft start feature is disabled? cheers!
-sj
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Old Aug 02, 2010, 05:39 PM
Respect our earth !
Belgium / Europe
Joined Dec 2009
61 Posts
Hi all,

I'm new to this post however in relation with Alex since a long time now
and build my TriWii since a while now.
My TriWii does fly well and I could already spend some good time in FPV.
You can see some footages here http://www.vimeo.com/joelcordier

By the way, it's maybe a good place to thank Alex for his super project,
kindness and devotion. Merci beaucoup (in french)

JoŽl
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Old Aug 02, 2010, 06:33 PM
Respect our earth !
Belgium / Europe
Joined Dec 2009
61 Posts
To Wland and others.

I'm also experiencing a crazy Rx problem.
My Tx is a JR 10x - 35MHz
When i use a Corona receiver (tested with 4 devices) I'm having troubles.
Randomly Throttle, Yaw, Roll or Nick are affected with a value bump.
I do not have those problems with a 'conventional' Rx like a single FM
Unfortunately I need Corona type Rx here as there is to much noise in
the 35 band here.

BEWARE that with a FM receiver, a loss of signal can result in
a "Motor Off" command followed by a silent free fall.
See my nice video here
The beep tones yoy hear are extra code that monitors the RX.
http://www.vimeo.com/13835927
Happy end with only 3 broken propellers.

I filmed what happens on the GUI.
I do not understand what's going on as I can confirm that
there are no wrong signals coming out of the Corona receivers.
I monitored the PPM pulses with a good digital scope.
The problem appears at a certain RPM with motors spinning.
I assume it's a parasitical signal that is troubling the arduino.
I'm an electronician and made some electrical filterings without success.

Filmed GUI and running motor without propeller.
Tricopter - Jam on GUI.mp4 (0 min 34 sec)


JoŽl.
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Last edited by Logiq; Aug 02, 2010 at 06:39 PM.
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Old Aug 02, 2010, 07:10 PM
five by five
sonicj's Avatar
Panama City Bch, FL
Joined Jan 2009
2,074 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Logiq View Post
To Wland and others.

I'm also experiencing a crazy Rx problem.
My Tx is a JR 10x - 35MHz
When i use a Corona receiver (tested with 4 devices) I'm having troubles.
Randomly Throttle, Yaw, Roll or Nick are affected with a value bump.
I do not have those problems with a 'conventional' Rx like a single FM
Unfortunately I need Corona type Rx here as there is to much noise in
the 35 band here.

BEWARE that with a FM receiver, a loss of signal can result in
a "Motor Off" command followed by a silent free fall.
See my nice video here
The beep tones yoy hear are extra code that monitors the RX.
Happy end with only 3 broken propellers.

I filmed what happens on the GUI.
I do not understand what's going on as I can confirm that
there are no wrong signals coming out of the Corona receivers.
I monitored the PPM pulses with a good digital scope.
The problem appears at a certain RPM with motors spinning.
I assume it's a parasitical signal that is troubling the arduino.
I'm an electronician and made some electrical filterings without success.

Filmed GUI and running motor without propeller.

JoŽl.
great footage joel!

i would suggest using a servo tester to bypass the tx & rx and run your bench test again. if the problem goes away, you know its RF /radio related. if it remains, its likely in the arduino or the wiring.

unplug the motors, does it still happen? if not it could be a vibration induced problem.

disconnect the esc's. does it still glitch?

get where im going? good luck!
-sj
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Old Aug 03, 2010, 07:53 AM
Registered User
Joined Aug 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonnyc67 View Post
The WM+ clone seems ok on test so far
hi,
can you specify which one works ok ?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...#ht_1888wt_911
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...#ht_1888wt_911

thanks,
cholo
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Old Aug 03, 2010, 08:21 AM
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jonnyc67's Avatar
Joined Jan 2008
235 Posts
Hi Cholo, I've got 3 wm+ controllers from ebay, all clones. Two work ok in testing using the GUI - done about 1/2 hour on each with no problems or glitches. The third one works ok for a few minutes, then freezes the GUI completely & has to be restarted.
It does this every few minutes so would be a disaster on a tri. The snag is I had the good clone & the bad clone from the same seller, and Alex had the same problem with the other seller I posted, so it's just the luck of the draw from either from these sellers - you could get a good or bad clone as they both seem to be switching suppliers & the boards keep getting updated..... My bad board is blue colour, single sided with just the connector on the back & IDG650 and ISZ650 mems chips, there is also a 'blob' chip on the board which i assume is the a-d convertor. says version MP-V1.5B on the back. I may try this one on a 3.3v supply to see if it makes a difference.
Just to make life really annoying, one of my good clones, that seems to work fine with no glitches, at least on the gui monitor looks identical to Alex's bad clone. We may just be getting unlucky & getting faulty boards...
You could try asking the seller what version of board is in the clone they're selling but other than that it's pretty much hit & miss. Same thing with nunchucks on ebay to be honest - had 3 with 2 different clone boards inside, but haven't had a chance to test them properly yet.
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