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Old Oct 29, 2011, 12:13 PM
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USA, AK, Soldotna
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Jevermeister
are you referring to the small groove (trench) that the tiny snap ring fits on to that keeps the motor from separating? If so here is what I have found to be easiest to make them. If your axle needs to be 3mm they are easy to find in old cd-rom drives. Once you have the rod out chuck it in a drill press (a hand drill could work in a pinch) and then take a piece of scrap wood and drill a 1/8th inch hole a couple mm deep. Set the end of the axle into this groove and turn on your drill press. Then take a hack saw and hold the blade against the wood and saw into the axle while it spins. Within a few seconds you should have a nice groove that the pesky snap ring can lock onto.

The piece of wood is to give you something to rest the saw blade on so that you dont slip around while sawing, and to help get the groove as close to the end of the shaft as possible.

There was a video floating around that someone made of how to set this up. It is really easy and quick once you do it the first time.
If you don't have a drill press I strongly suggest getting one, it's a great investment. And only about $120 for a small bench mounted one.
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Old Oct 29, 2011, 12:48 PM
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Deutschland, SH, Kiel
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nice tutorial,

will try that. Put the steel I bought is veeeery hard (we call it Federstahl = Springsteel ??)

I will tell you about the results.

Thank you a lot!

Nils

Quote:
Originally Posted by pinball View Post
Jevermeister
are you referring to the small groove (trench) that the tiny snap ring fits on to that keeps the motor from separating? If so here is what I have found to be easiest to make them. If your axle needs to be 3mm they are easy to find in old cd-rom drives. Once you have the rod out chuck it in a drill press (a hand drill could work in a pinch) and then take a piece of scrap wood and drill a 1/8th inch hole a couple mm deep. Set the end of the axle into this groove and turn on your drill press. Then take a hack saw and hold the blade against the wood and saw into the axle while it spins. Within a few seconds you should have a nice groove that the pesky snap ring can lock onto.

The piece of wood is to give you something to rest the saw blade on so that you dont slip around while sawing, and to help get the groove as close to the end of the shaft as possible.

There was a video floating around that someone made of how to set this up. It is really easy and quick once you do it the first time.
If you don't have a drill press I strongly suggest getting one, it's a great investment. And only about $120 for a small bench mounted one.
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Old Oct 29, 2011, 12:50 PM
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Could we make the android works with the cable not only bluethoot ??
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Old Oct 29, 2011, 12:53 PM
DiaLFonZo - UAV/Drone
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Joined Oct 2007
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DiaLFonZo - G10 Quad - Y6 config

Hi All,

Just want to share..

Here is the Y6 config of my frame ... almost ready to take off...!

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Old Oct 29, 2011, 12:55 PM
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USA, AK, Soldotna
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jevermeister View Post
nice tutorial,

will try that. Put the steel I bought is veeeery hard (we call it Federstahl = Springsteel ??)

I will tell you about the results.

Thank you a lot!

Nils
The steel the cd-rom shafts are made from is likely close to the same. If I try and bend a 4 inch piece by hand I can barely get any 'bend' into it at all. The hacksaw makes a nice cut in it tho. The saw blades don't hold up to well tho. lol
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Old Oct 29, 2011, 02:16 PM
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United States, CA, Los Angeles
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Originally Posted by jevermeister View Post
Sadly not,
the newest DEV version supports GPS so there are severel parameters new in the eeprom, the Android Tool does not know how to read the new EEProm structure. Since this is a dev version I do not expect the developer to distribute a new version until this structure goes official - I can understand him very well - so this is no criticism to him.

I could easily change the code to fit with the android tool again but I am concentrating on baro and amg mode right now and getting rid of my vibrations.

Sadly all my axis are crooked, I tried to replace them with elastic steel but I am unable to get the smal trench ( right word?) for the ring to hold the axis into it as aexact as needed.

I crash a lot because I try to fly some parcour maneuvers in the woods and those emax axes are s**t!


Nils
It really would be nice if the EEProm was segmented or divided up so that there would be some backward compatibility. Why not put in a suggestion, I am sure Alex will consider it.
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Old Oct 29, 2011, 02:16 PM
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Montreal, Québec, Canada
Joined Apr 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dialfonzo View Post
Hi All,

Just want to share..

Here is the Y6 config of my frame ... almost ready to take off...!
Avec du bon blé d'inde et du poulet?



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Originally Posted by Widelec View Post
Arduino bluetooth and usb serial port adapter avaible at dealextreme.


Will it work with the Android Tool?
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Old Oct 29, 2011, 02:17 PM
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United States, AR, Jonesboro
Joined May 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pinball View Post
Jevermeister
are you referring to the small groove (trench) that the tiny snap ring fits on to that keeps the motor from separating? If so here is what I have found to be easiest to make them. If your axle needs to be 3mm they are easy to find in old cd-rom drives. Once you have the rod out chuck it in a drill press (a hand drill could work in a pinch) and then take a piece of scrap wood and drill a 1/8th inch hole a couple mm deep. Set the end of the axle into this groove and turn on your drill press. Then take a hack saw and hold the blade against the wood and saw into the axle while it spins. Within a few seconds you should have a nice groove that the pesky snap ring can lock onto.

The piece of wood is to give you something to rest the saw blade on so that you dont slip around while sawing, and to help get the groove as close to the end of the shaft as possible.

There was a video floating around that someone made of how to set this up. It is really easy and quick once you do it the first time.
If you don't have a drill press I strongly suggest getting one, it's a great investment. And only about $120 for a small bench mounted one.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jevermeister View Post
nice tutorial,

will try that. Put the steel I bought is veeeery hard (we call it Federstahl = Springsteel ??)

I will tell you about the results.

Thank you a lot!

Nils
I like to use the drill press as well. But instead of using a say, I just stick a mini grinder blade on my rotary tool and just hold it to the shaft that way Works a charm all the time and don't have to worry to much
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Old Oct 29, 2011, 05:11 PM
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Italy, Lombardia, Rovato
Joined Jun 2011
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Yaw authority?

I still use the 1.7 version on my X-copter and the Suppo A2208 motors from flyduino with 8x4.5 propellers.I have my remote setup to 125% on all channels but i still miss some yaw authority.I try'd increasing the RC rate only to yaw axis,it seems to work a bit better but increasing too much is getting the copter to oscillate fast when adding throttle.I almost crashed it once today.I wonder if changing the P value of yaw does something better.What do you guys suggest?
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Old Oct 30, 2011, 05:11 AM
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Deutschland, SH, Kiel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by firepong View Post
I like to use the drill press as well. But instead of using a say, I just stick a mini grinder blade on my rotary tool and just hold it to the shaft that way Works a charm all the time and don't have to worry to much

Hi i did that the first time I tried it. But the groove got to wide - the same problem exists if I try it with the saw. I need a thinner saw.
I think the ring will be loose if I fit it into that groove

Nils
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Old Oct 30, 2011, 08:06 AM
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Deutschland, Schleswig-Holstein, Kiel
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did u try with this ones?
imho it doesnt matter, if it gets o,1mm too wide.


http://www.ebay.de/itm/100St-TRENNSC...item2eb8abc095


here is a howto for cf2822 "federstahl" in german

http://www.microcopters.de/artikel/c...aus-federstahl

sorry for german , as i dont know the correct words in english....
ich würde die welle in die standbohrmaschine spannen und lansam laufen lassen, und dann mit dremel+ trennscheibe den schlitz rein machen. dabei aber aufpassen, dass der dremel genau parallel zur welle angesetzt wird. am besten ebenfalls in nen dremel-ständer spannen, und das ganze dann nur gegen die welle schieben. dann wird der schnitt kaum breiter als die trennscheibenstärke.
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Old Oct 30, 2011, 08:46 AM
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Deutschland, SH, Kiel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alteskind View Post
did u try with this ones?
imho it doesnt matter, if it gets o,1mm too wide.


http://www.ebay.de/itm/100St-TRENNSC...item2eb8abc095


here is a howto for cf2822 "federstahl" in german

http://www.microcopters.de/artikel/c...aus-federstahl

sorry for german , as i dont know the correct words in english....
ich würde die welle in die standbohrmaschine spannen und lansam laufen lassen, und dann mit dremel+ trennscheibe den schlitz rein machen. dabei aber aufpassen, dass der dremel genau parallel zur welle angesetzt wird. am besten ebenfalls in nen dremel-ständer spannen, und das ganze dann nur gegen die welle schieben. dann wird der schnitt kaum breiter als die trennscheibenstärke.
Hi,

he suggested to fit a drill into it's harness and let it rotate slowly with the axis in it, then take a dremel with a cutting disc and cut the groove into the axis. the best option is to hold the dremel parallel to the axis by putting it into a harness too.

My Answer: I thought about that too, but the discas are to thick for a small groove. I think I will order some axes now, they are 0,50 pounds at giantcod, I need better propmounts, mine are too long and this is not good when crashing. I am using wire straps now to strap the pros directly to the motor, works good, no axis needed ;-) But only works with mikrocopter props and 2822 emax.

Nils

ps.: can someone mill me some landing gears out of 10mm POM? I definetily need legs!!
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Old Oct 30, 2011, 08:53 AM
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Deutschland, SH, Kiel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DexterIt View Post
I still use the 1.7 version on my X-copter and the Suppo A2208 motors from flyduino with 8x4.5 propellers.I have my remote setup to 125% on all channels but i still miss some yaw authority.I try'd increasing the RC rate only to yaw axis,it seems to work a bit better but increasing too much is getting the copter to oscillate fast when adding throttle.I almost crashed it once today.I wonder if changing the P value of yaw does something better.What do you guys suggest?
Increase Yaw Rate in the GUI.

Nils
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Old Oct 30, 2011, 09:11 AM
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Italy, Lombardia, Rovato
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jevermeister View Post
Increase Yaw Rate in the GUI.

Nils
Thank you Jevermeister,gonna go and give it a try now.
Anyone know what receiver with PPM Sum is working with the Spektrum DX6i remote?I want to buy one to rebuild my hexa.
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Old Oct 30, 2011, 10:37 AM
DiaLFonZo - UAV/Drone
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Canada, QC
Joined Oct 2007
6,723 Posts
DiaLFonZo LED-Ring

First test of the Ring...!

I didn't order my surface mount LED yet, but i have solder some standard LED on the board to test it.

DiaLFonZo LED-Ring PCB
Standard LED (4 Green front - 4 RED back - 8 Yellow on sides)
Paris V4 Naked MultiWii board
MultiWii 1.8p2
DiaLFonZo LED-Ring library
Clamp connection for now...

DiaLFonZo LED-Ring - Standard LED test MultiWii FC (0 min 47 sec)
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