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Old Jul 13, 2011, 09:21 AM
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Ελλάς, Αττική, Αθήνα
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Lcd and arduino nano v3

hello to all,
does anyone know how to connect an Lcd 09395 with arduino nano V3 that has an integrated FTDI ?
Thanks in advance!!
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Old Jul 13, 2011, 09:23 AM
FPV really is fun.
Scotth72's Avatar
Sedona, Az
Joined Sep 2001
937 Posts
You know that you can change that min throttle to any number you want, right? That last one, that says 1190, for example. (I just use that one because its not commented.) You could comment it with your multi's name if you wish. If you want just a bit more, type in 1200, and reload into the arduino. A bit less, type in 1180. You can even save this sketch by hitting control/shift S and renaming it so that you can find it again. I can usually find one of the default settings that works perfectly, but if you need a different speed, then go ahead and change it.
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Old Jul 13, 2011, 09:27 AM
"Let's put a camera on that.."
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Twin Cities, MN
Joined Feb 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by saucisse View Post
Anyone using the camera stabilization on their quad without any problems? I have the Lunar Lander 4 from quadframe with the optionnal camera ''gimball'' and get some servo jitters with the camera stab of my Warthox FPV controller. I'm using the emax servo's as per Jakub's recommendation. The video is real good, no vibration from the props but the cam stab ruins it all.

Any ''tuning'' or tips would be really appriciated.

Cheers!

Sebastien
Sure, I've used that! Try fiddling around with the proportional setting. For my 110 degree fov camera, it's set to 19, but that's too much movement for my 90 degree.. I haven't done anything about it yet, but I think lowering it to maybe 9 would help.

Anyway, see if adjusting that helps your image. Also, you may wish to move the linkage to the gimbal out to the farthest point on the servo arm so that each twitch of the servo motor moves the gimbal the least, minimizing the size of your jitters. Then fool around with proportional

spag
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Old Jul 13, 2011, 09:29 AM
"Let's put a camera on that.."
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Twin Cities, MN
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Originally Posted by captaingeek View Post
turns out it was somthing with the ESC's. I recalibrated them and its much better now. Had to reset the throttle atten. back to 0. I have a full understanding of how it works now,

I suspect that their trying to reset the full throttle level automatically. I guess i'll need to figure out a way to calibrate them on occasion.

Anyone else expirence this?

I also tried setting the ESC's to high timing. MONSTER power with that set but I can see its getting the motors good and hot. Will have to go back to medium.

I havea watt meter and am pulling about 40AMPs at full throttle from 4x 30A ESC's.
Yep! I've seen that happen with my turnigy plush 25A's, too. I know temperature will change endpoints, but I'm talking Minnesota temperature... where it's 72 inside and 22 outside... or 102 outside.. that'll certainly change those esc's!
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Old Jul 13, 2011, 09:30 AM
SILURIA / UK
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Probably thinking of the old gyro tx setup where you left a bit of headroom for the gyros to work with.

On the multiwii you are spot on - as long as the esc can deal with your full throttle calibration it should be good. Leave as default unless have any issue!

Some guys have mentioned they have put dual rate on the throttle. One rate for config and the other to tame overpowerfull copter.

Personally I just use a throttle curve to get the control I need. I find that easier for FPV....

Quote:
Originally Posted by spagoziak View Post
Here's how I find my min throttle:

MaxThrottle is a bit different.. it depends on what the esc will care for as max. I read from Shikra (i think) that FPV users may not want to push maxthrottle out to 2000 as it makes for a somewhat rougher ride. I'm not sure about it, never tried. I have mine set to defaults and everythign works lovely.

spag
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Old Jul 13, 2011, 09:33 AM
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USA, CA, Novato
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Originally Posted by eosbandi View Post
Hi !
I finished code for Atmel's Inertial One System Board (ATAVRSBIN1). You can get this 9DOF board for $54+shipping from Atmel (http://store.atmel.com/PartDetail.aspx?q=p:10500250) and it has an ITG3200, BMA150 (drop in alternative for BMA020) and a AK8975 mag. The mag is the same that used in iPhone4. Code changes are here : http://wbb.multiwii.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=506
Wow this is great news. How is flight testing?

Quote:
Originally Posted by spagoziak View Post
Yep! I've seen that happen with my turnigy plush 25A's, too. I know temperature will change endpoints, but I'm talking Minnesota temperature... where it's 72 inside and 22 outside... or 102 outside.. that'll certainly change those esc's!
I was going crazy about this. I thought all my barreries were suddenly dying. I thought I may have killed them!

I guess I need to find a way to calibrate them on a regular basis which is a pain. I don't like taking any risk with the props attach so I guess Im going to get good at removing the props
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Old Jul 13, 2011, 09:35 AM
SILURIA / UK
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Also check that your FPV tx is not causing it... might be powerfull tx close by?

I also put extra 470uf capacitor accross the 5v rail to help prevent any brownouts / spikes.

Are many using the cam stab yet? I'm intersted in this myself!

Quote:
Originally Posted by saucisse View Post
spagoziak: Thanks for the tip but already figure it out last night. Maiden flight awesome !!! Only problem to figure out is the servo jittering on the camera stabilization gimball
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Old Jul 13, 2011, 09:46 AM
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Paris, France
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Originally Posted by Shikra View Post
Alex - was flying the latest dev20110710 last night wmp/nk only. Going very well.
Until I got it stuck in the top of a Hawthorn Tree... Pilot error...

More pilot error - I caught the end of my thumb in the prop. Almost lost 5mm

The P and I values I ended up pretty low for best performance for me. Pitch/roll P was something like 2. I is 0 and critically, autolevel needs to down less than 2 or it can flip if there are quick stops or in ground effect.

It's a small Tri with large props, motor and 4000mah battery. Very sensitive and possibly why values are a little different. But great fun flyer.
Hi !

besides the need to lower a little bit the PID settings (strange however for a so low P LEVEL),
would you say it's better, the same or worse than the 1.7 ?
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Old Jul 13, 2011, 10:09 AM
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Nevada, USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eosbandi View Post
Hi !
I finished code for Atmel's Inertial One System Board (ATAVRSBIN1). You can get this 9DOF board for $54+shipping from Atmel (http://store.atmel.com/PartDetail.aspx?q=p:10500250) and it has an ITG3200, BMA150 (drop in alternative for BMA020) and a AK8975 mag. The mag is the same that used in iPhone4. Code changes are here : http://wbb.multiwii.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=506
Nice find, and the BMP085 is avail @ 24$
http://store.atmel.com/PartDetail.aspx?q=p:10500251
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Old Jul 13, 2011, 10:28 AM
Don't disturb the pilot !!!
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Canada, QC, Quebec
Joined Jun 2008
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No FPV gear on it yet and did add the cap on the board to prevent spikes. Seriously when it's not doing it (jittering), video is awesome! You should start playing with it. Gonna play with the setting tonigh and move the servo horn like suggested previously.

Cheers!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Shikra View Post
Also check that your FPV tx is not causing it... might be powerfull tx close by?

I also put extra 470uf capacitor accross the 5v rail to help prevent any brownouts / spikes.

Are many using the cam stab yet? I'm intersted in this myself!
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Old Jul 13, 2011, 11:02 AM
SILURIA / UK
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Yes - I sense an improvement for sure, but it does seem a bit more critical to get the PID right.
I didn't use previous settings and started fresh. I had more times than usual where it flipped during setup.
Not sure if autolevel has changed since 1.7, but it also seems more critical to get right if you want to fly with it on. Hover is fine - quick stop / movements could set off on overcontrol flip unless have the P and I low.

So now its nearly finished with tuning it flies all time with NK on and I can spin, make fast changes / descents with very little issue other than acc being fooled by movements. I really like it. I'll do a video once I fix up the frame again!

...and I am comparing this using a clone to it running 1.7 with a good genuine WMP. I last used this clone WMP with 1.5 and it wasn't very nice so I removed and bought a genuine one. It really was horrible to fly. The difference since then is very big - it seems to handle the bad data better which surprised me - I recall your comment about it being worse with clones! It is better for me!! .


I have to test with a normal Tri too .... compare size to a normal 18 inch one... and its carry 4000mah + gopro.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Alexinparis View Post
Hi !

besides the need to lower a little bit the PID settings (strange however for a so low P LEVEL),
would you say it's better, the same or worse than the 1.7 ?
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Old Jul 13, 2011, 11:04 AM
SILURIA / UK
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Originally Posted by saucisse View Post
No FPV gear on it yet and did add the cap on the board to prevent spikes. Seriously when it's not doing it (jittering), video is awesome! You should start playing with it. Gonna play with the setting tonigh and move the servo horn like suggested previously.

Cheers!
Ah - for sure. Needs near zero mechanical play.
Lets hope settings can improve

In winter I want to build hexa or octo with cam stab. I hope by then you guys will have made it easy for me!
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Old Jul 13, 2011, 11:14 AM
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motors

I had a motor not starting up with the rest of them when i armed. when i would hit the throttle it would spin up. I thought it was my esc's untill i noticed when applying power to the motors the three beeps you get the props sometimes wiggle a bit.

I looked inside the holes in the motor and noticed the stators were moving independantly from the base. Im not sure how the stators are connected to the base but it is deffinately moving.

I took my motor apart and noticed a break in one of the small wires.

I am in the process of rewinding the emax 2822 now. almost done! I had to superglue the stators to the base (base being silver aluminum shaft that stators go on).

I have rewound a motor already and i would say it is way more responsive than the orriginal wind. its about the same kv but the throttle has a lot more range to it than stock motors


rewinding with 22awg mag wire with 8 turns per stator. terminating wye
anyone else have this happen?
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Old Jul 13, 2011, 11:49 AM
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USA, CA, Novato
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Originally Posted by rollinolin View Post
rewinding with 22awg mag wire with 8 turns per stator. terminating wye
anyone else have this happen?
I tried it before... man is it a bitch to do. much easier to pay for a new one. yeah the wires don't handle much abuse. best to to use bullet connectors and zip tie the wires down so they dont get stressed. with bullets in a bad crash the wires can disconnect . If their hard wired (soldered) in a bad crash they'll tear out the windings.
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Old Jul 13, 2011, 01:00 PM
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Bristol UK
Joined Oct 2009
721 Posts
Dodgy WMP

Hi,

I bought three WMP's, they were advertised as genuine(japanese original) i have bought them before and they were the real deal that time with the metal cased chip etc. Well they were different this time they were blue with MP-v3.0 on the back, i think they are the ones with the itg3200 gyro's in.
They show all right in the Gui just the same as the normal ones but when i put them in a Tri all hell breaks loose. I tested it holding it above my head,and as soon as you move the sticks it trys to flip the direction you move the stick, I was lucky to be able to hold on, only low throttle, and still it fights like a rabid dog.
I remember reading somewhere how to alter the code to calm them down but i cant find it again. I have been searching all day without any luck and my head is killing me now. Anyway does anybody remember where that thread is because i cant afford to ditch three WMP's.

Thanks in advance
Ray
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