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Old Jul 24, 2010, 02:12 AM
BVM Viper Fever
pdawg's Avatar
United States, OH, Dayton
Joined Apr 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve C View Post
I thought your idea for the ducting was just fine, but my bet is that you won't need the 30mm adapter once you fly it with the bigger fan.

I've never been fond of tailerons, though I have done it on a small plane.
Steve C
Steve,
I'd prefer to use a conventional setup so we'll see how much time I have. You might be right about the 40mm power system!

There was some progress made today. The hatch plug is now in the splitter box.
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Old Jul 24, 2010, 02:56 AM
Team30 Micro EDF
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Adelaide, Australia
Joined Apr 2004
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OK, that looks interesting. I think I'll need to see how you do the canopy plug to work out why the bottom is open.
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Old Jul 24, 2010, 09:03 AM
BVM Viper Fever
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United States, OH, Dayton
Joined Apr 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NitroCharged View Post
OK, that looks interesting. I think I'll need to see how you do the canopy plug to work out why the bottom is open.
NC,

The balsa seen on the bottom of the hatch was added after everything was primered and prepped. The idea is to have bottom of the hatch mold completely open like the wingsaddle of the fuse mold. Instead of using a dremel to sand away that section of the mold, a balsawood "dam" was built so that region will not be part of the mold. It should also make the lay-up of this mold much easier since it won't have a terribly sharp corner like Tumbler experienced. BTW The rewound donrc outrunner you built is getting mounted in the prototype today. 145grams of thrust From a 30mm edf sounds AMAZING.
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Last edited by pdawg; Jul 24, 2010 at 12:23 PM.
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Old Jul 24, 2010, 11:43 AM
Carbon fiber is our friend
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United States, CA, Lodi
Joined Feb 2001
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I'm surprised you're splitting in that direction. If you ever want a carbon fiber canopy, it will have a seam line in the middle of it.

Steve C
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Old Jul 24, 2010, 01:39 PM
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New Jersey
Joined Feb 2003
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Looking good man! Yep, I am doing that on my fuse for sure! I rthat lesson the hard way. Like yours, I have a stab, wing, and hatch opening. Creates too much trimming after!

When I cut out the opening I got half way through and went oh noooooooo I hope I didn't cut too deep and hit the surface coat!


Quote:
Originally Posted by pdawg View Post
NC,

The balsa seen on the bottom of the hatch was added after everything was primered and prepped. The idea is to have bottom of the hatch mold completely open like the wingsaddle of the fuse mold. Instead of using a dremel to sand away that section of the mold, a balsawood "dam" was built so that region will not be part of the mold. It should also make the lay-up of this mold much easier since it won't have a terribly sharp corner like Tumbler experienced. BTW The rewound donrc outrunner you built is getting mounted in the prototype today. 145grams of thrust From a 30mm edf sounds AMAZING.
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Last edited by Tumbler; Jul 24, 2010 at 01:50 PM.
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Old Jul 25, 2010, 09:19 AM
BVM Viper Fever
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United States, OH, Dayton
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve C View Post
I'm surprised you're splitting in that direction. If you ever want a carbon fiber canopy, it will have a seam line in the middle of it.

Steve C
Steve,
Since I wasn't planning to paint the molds the seam line location never really bothered me. I was more concerned about having a lip around the perimeter of the hatch to provide strength. I could have gone with a different parting line but this one made the most sense to me. Todays the day for laying up the first half of the mold
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Last edited by pdawg; Jul 25, 2010 at 11:52 AM.
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Old Jul 26, 2010, 12:32 AM
BVM Viper Fever
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United States, OH, Dayton
Joined Apr 2004
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Almost there

Today was a great building day. I am also now fortunate to have my friend Dave working on the prototype while I finish off these last 2 molds. Today the first half of the canopy mold was layed up. It was actually very fast. The amount of cloth was somewhere around 60 oz and I believe it took less than an hour to apply the glass. After the mold I began working on the ducting. It was actually rather painless but I did learn that its helpful to have the ducting attached to a dowel for handling purposes.

Dave decided to begin by installing the fan and thrust tube. Today he brought over his work from the previous night and it looks great. He made mounting rails from 1/64th ply and I love the way it looks. This should make it easy to test different power systems.

The goal for tomorrow is to complete both the hatch mold and the ducting mold.

Almost there!!!
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Old Jul 26, 2010, 02:58 AM
Team30 Micro EDF
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Adelaide, Australia
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I see how the lip works on the canopy now Bret,

Nice ducting too!
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Old Jul 26, 2010, 01:03 PM
BVM Viper Fever
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United States, OH, Dayton
Joined Apr 2004
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Ducting plug

According to NC this system runs cool on 3s. NC, are you running a receiver pack on your 4 cell systems? I do like the sound of 200 grams of thrust! Right now the prototype airframe is estimated to weigh in at 175g-200g with a 3 cell pack.

Here are some pics of the ducting construction. It is built backwards compared to the fuselage mold. First step is the glass and the last step is the gel coat. The gel coat is currently drying. If its a warm day I might be able to lay up the first part later tonight.
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Last edited by pdawg; Jul 26, 2010 at 01:40 PM.
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Old Jul 26, 2010, 07:47 PM
Team30 Micro EDF
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Adelaide, Australia
Joined Apr 2004
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I don't run a rxer pack - it's all off the one lipo pack.

How did you apply the gel coat on the plugs? They look great!
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Old Jul 26, 2010, 09:40 PM
Addicted to building...
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Omaha Nebraska
Joined Feb 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NitroCharged View Post
I don't run a rxer pack - it's all off the one lipo pack.

How did you apply the gel coat on the plugs? They look great!
Then what ESC do you use, as most only do 3 cell, not 4?

Fred
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Old Jul 26, 2010, 09:53 PM
BVM Viper Fever
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United States, OH, Dayton
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Originally Posted by Freddie B View Post
Then what ESC do you use, as most only do 3 cell, not 4?

Fred

Maybe it has to do with the fact that the servos are small and do not require much power which allows small servo users to possibly use a forth cell safely?
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Old Jul 26, 2010, 10:21 PM
Addicted to building...
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Omaha Nebraska
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Originally Posted by pdawg View Post
Maybe it has to do with the fact that the servos are small and do not require much power which allows small servo users to possibly use a forth cell safely?
Maybe, but usually the little bits smoke and get that Radio Shack smell if you over do it! Think maybe someone beside Castle may make 4 cell capable ESC's, wouldn't that be nice if affordable and reliable.

Fred
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Last edited by Freddie B; Jul 27, 2010 at 01:05 AM.
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Old Jul 26, 2010, 10:52 PM
Team30 Micro EDF
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Adelaide, Australia
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I use the Turnigy Plush 18A 2S-4S ESC.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...eed_Controller

It has a 2A 5V BEC.
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Old Jul 27, 2010, 01:07 AM
Addicted to building...
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Omaha Nebraska
Joined Feb 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NitroCharged View Post
I use the Turnigy Plush 18A 2S-4S ESC.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...eed_Controller

It has a 2A 5V BEC.
NICE! Thank you. I got to pay more attention when reading specs because I totally missed the 2-4 Cell notation.

Fred
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