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Old Jul 19, 2010, 11:38 AM
Another one on the way...
ysolomon's Avatar
Plano, Texas
Joined Feb 2009
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This is the scheme I like...
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Old Jul 19, 2010, 11:39 AM
Another one on the way...
ysolomon's Avatar
Plano, Texas
Joined Feb 2009
2,305 Posts
http://www.twobobs.net/contents/en-u...d=40319.521528

Better?
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Old Jul 19, 2010, 03:35 PM
Registered User
Wilsonville, OR
Joined Jun 2010
554 Posts
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Originally Posted by ysolomon View Post
Wisdumb,

This is very informative and helpful, as I'm starting to think about my own coloring scheme for an F-16. I chose the Alaskan 18th Aggressor squadron. One question--what paper will you be printing it on? White? Transparent?

Thanks...
I'll do the pig and anything with grey or black on the transparent stuff. Anything with color I'll do on the white. I think I'll have to print out a "master" and take it to someplace to be photocopied. I only have inkjet printers and the instructions say that won't work since they are water decals. This is a new process for me so I'll experiment a little for the best result.

Speaking of experimenting, I got an airbrush and have attempted to paint one side of the vertical stab. On my second attemp I thinned the paint and had much better results. I'll show the process for the other side when I "master" my technique.
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Old Jul 19, 2010, 03:42 PM
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Wilsonville, OR
Joined Jun 2010
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Originally Posted by ysolomon View Post
This is the scheme I like...
I've seen that scheme, it is very nice!
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Old Jul 19, 2010, 04:50 PM
John Green
USA, FL, St Petersburg
Joined Dec 2007
616 Posts
If you getthe water slip decal paper you can print with your inkjet. After printing and before cutting the decal from the paper spray on fixative( sort of clear laquer) and let dry. Now you have a water slip decal where the ink won't smudge. I've used this process to great effect and it really works well. The paper comes in clear and white.
John
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Old Jul 19, 2010, 07:48 PM
Registered User
Wilsonville, OR
Joined Jun 2010
554 Posts
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Originally Posted by PlumberJohn View Post
If you getthe water slip decal paper you can print with your inkjet. After printing and before cutting the decal from the paper spray on fixative( sort of clear laquer) and let dry. Now you have a water slip decal where the ink won't smudge. I've used this process to great effect and it really works well. The paper comes in clear and white.
John
I'll give that a try! Sounds much easier than driving around town for printouts!
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Old Jul 21, 2010, 12:20 AM
He builds stuff. :)
Pepperpete's Avatar
Canada, AB, Grande Prairie
Joined Sep 2007
1,663 Posts
Thanks to your Bore image I now have a fancy new tail on my F-16 (Note...other decals are not applied yet). Regarding the inkjet waterslide decals which is exactly what I used, here is the exact way to do it.

For using the inkjet waterslide decals you need the following. I do all my own decals in this fashion and as you can see the results are awesome. But it's not just as easy as print and stick.

Things you need.

1) Waterslide Decal Paper (duh)
2) Krylon Crystal Clear Gloss Coat (Walmart carries it)
3) (Important) Go to your local hobby shop and buy some Scenic Cement (Spray or Brush-On Adhesive) as shown in the picture. Any type will do. This stuff is just a paint-able glue that dries to a invisible matt color but it's VITAL for our planes.
4) Paint Brush
5) Damp Paper Towel

No matter how good the stickiness of the decal paper is, it won't be enough for wind abuse. This is why we need the Scenic Cement.

Step 1) Print out your decal on clear or white decal paper. Use the HIGHEST setting your printer can do. Do NOT cut it into shape yet. Let it dry for about 4 minutes.

Step 2) Use the Krylon Crystal Clear Gloss Coat and spray the paper with a good solid layer of gloss. Let it dry completely. The decal itself should be fully covered.

Step 3) Cut out the decal. Don't worry if you get fingerprints on the decal, they will come off in the next step. *Note* Make sure to paint your aircraft in Matt colors. Once the decals are set you can clear coat as you desire. Personally I think aircraft look better matt but that is just me.

Step 4) Wet the decal to the point it is ready to slide off (just leave it on the backing) and set it aside. Now take the paintbrush and the scenic cement and coat the area on the plane that the decal is going to sit. Use plenty. Don't worry about it drying funny.

Step 5) Slide the decal onto the Scenic Cement covered Aircraft and position it where you want. Use your fingers and gently push any air bubbles out.

Step 6) Take the damp paper towel and in circle motions rub the decal. This will remove the extra Scenic Cement and give you a good bubble free fit.

Step 7) Finally take a dry paper towel and continue gentle circle motions directly over the decal and plane. Continue until it appears dry around the decal.

And that's about it! If you find a corner sticking up during this process, simply use the brush, apply some Scenic Cement directly to the spot and press down. Then clean it off again with the paper towel. Don't worry if you are using clear decal paper and the clear area's look milky under the decal. Give it a few hours and the cement will dry and it will turn back to clear. These steps work so well that when I wipe down my plane after a day I have absolutely no fear of the decals falling off. Just make sure the cement is completely dry before cleaning and it bonds the decal to the airframe like you wouldn't believe. Without the cement the decals will be falling off within a week...trust me on that one.
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Last edited by Pepperpete; Jul 21, 2010 at 12:53 AM.
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Old Jul 21, 2010, 12:31 AM
Registered User
Wilsonville, OR
Joined Jun 2010
554 Posts
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Originally Posted by Pepperpete View Post
Thanks to your Bore image I now have a fancy new tail on my F-16. Oh and check your PM's as I've got a nice trick for you regarding the waterslide decals.
Wow! That looks great! I'm glad the file helped. I'm also working on some of the other decals as well (refuel markings, danger triangles, do not step, etc...) It will probably be a bit before I knock them all out. Keep an eye out, I'll let you know when they are done.

Also, can you tell me what colors you used on your exhaust? I haven't found the "perfect" colors yet, but am somewhat happy with testers Model Master gunmetal metalizer paint.

Also, what color red did you use for the tip of the vertical stab?
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Old Jul 21, 2010, 12:38 AM
Registered User
Wilsonville, OR
Joined Jun 2010
554 Posts
I've found a 1/9 scale pilot that I think I'll be happy with (he doesn't look like a 1950's test pilot or a Piper Cub pilot!) I found it at aeroloft.com for 28 bucks, full figure. I asked them to send me a photo and this is what they sent. With a little work I think I can get it looking pretty awesome!
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Old Jul 21, 2010, 01:01 AM
He builds stuff. :)
Pepperpete's Avatar
Canada, AB, Grande Prairie
Joined Sep 2007
1,663 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wisdumb View Post
Wow! That looks great! I'm glad the file helped. I'm also working on some of the other decals as well (refuel markings, danger triangles, do not step, etc...) It will probably be a bit before I knock them all out. Keep an eye out, I'll let you know when they are done.

Also, can you tell me what colors you used on your exhaust? I haven't found the "perfect" colors yet, but am somewhat happy with testers Model Master gunmetal metalizer paint.

Also, what color red did you use for the tip of the vertical stab?
The color I used for the exhaust cone are

Tamiya Bronze
Tamiya Light Gun Metal
Tamiya Flat Aluminum
Tamiya Flat Black

Once painted I used 1000 grit paper to gently weather and blend everything. It really gives it an authentic appearance.

As for the tip of the vertical stab...it's a decal. Red printed on white decal paper with white words. WAY easier than trying to get a nice red done.
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Old Jul 21, 2010, 06:10 PM
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bri6672's Avatar
San Diego
Joined Jul 2009
2,222 Posts
Hey Pete,

So did you spray the thrust nozzle with aluminum first then black on the to and then lightly sand down the black? I was also wondering what f-16 you have and which pilot did you use?
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Old Jul 21, 2010, 06:42 PM
He builds stuff. :)
Pepperpete's Avatar
Canada, AB, Grande Prairie
Joined Sep 2007
1,663 Posts
Nope! I did all parts by hand separate from each other onto a basecoat of black matt. Then I just buffed each section with the 1000 grit very lightly to give it a simulated metal shine.

My F-16 is a Fly Eagle Jet and it came with the pilot. The original paint wasn't horrible but it was truly boring. No panel detail, wrong color etc. I am not happy with the cockpit at all and intend to replace it down the road with something that looks better. Same goes with the pilot. It looks fine 5 feet away but get up close and it's not very good.

The picture below is what the jet looked like before I did the repaint.
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Old Jul 21, 2010, 06:46 PM
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bri6672's Avatar
San Diego
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OHHHH so you put down the black then alluminum on top and lightly sand to see some of the black come thru?
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Old Jul 21, 2010, 06:49 PM
He builds stuff. :)
Pepperpete's Avatar
Canada, AB, Grande Prairie
Joined Sep 2007
1,663 Posts
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Originally Posted by bri6672 View Post
OHHHH so you put down the black then alluminum on top and lightly sand to see some of the black come thru?
Yup! I also folded the 1000 grit in half so that I had a VERY narrow edge and sanded between each section of nozzle to reveal the black underneath.
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Old Jul 21, 2010, 06:51 PM
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San Diego
Joined Jul 2009
2,222 Posts
So are the turkey feathers the light gun metal buffed out over the black?
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