Another thing...can you fit larger batteries in there with your modifiacation?

Originally Posted by alexjschauer

Another thing...can you fit larger batteries in there with your modifiacation?

I use 2650 mAh 3s and there is plenty of room for larger packs.

Have you tried 3300mah? Does it cOme in hot?

I use 3300 mAh 3S batteries. I actually prefer the extra weight. Fits fine, but I can't go any larger. That motor really sips down those amps!

Yeah I bet! Are you the Turnigy 35-36?

No, I went with the stock Rimfire .10 35-30-1250, that little motor really hauls it! It is more than enough power, and with the stock prop it is perfectly matched to the airframe. The .10 might seem a little expensive, but it is well made, has a warranty, and with the Tower coupons, you can get about 15% off of it.

You can see my setup on my RCGroups blog.

Nick

Thats the one I'm going to get. How long of flight times do you get with the 3300? What C rating?

Well to make it much easier...What BATTERY!?????????
Link?
Thanks!
Alex

well just to let you all know I finished and maiden mine today. heres my stuff--Eflite power 15, 10x7 prop, cc 50amp esc, servos whatever i had, Turnigy batt 3600 4s 35c, fly weight is 3lbs 8 oz. Power specs are 515 watts at 35 amps. A few mods were made to the steering and reinforced the motor mount---How does it fly, pretty good, just a few clicks of ail/ele trim, roll out was good with plenty of power, very fast in the air, unlimited verticle, landing was good, just keep the speed up around 1/3 throttle then cut it off at the deck with a slight flare and its down. The setting specs for the ail,ele,rudder are pretty close, added some expo to soften the feel. Time of flight was timer set at 5 min, check the batt and had 60% charge remaining and I gave it hell when in the air so Im pleased with the outcome with the power system. Lot of fun . Any questions just ask

A few mods were made to the steering and reinforced the motor mount--------
would like to see pics the mods of the steering and motor mount, glad the maiden turned out good for you. scott

Originally Posted by scottc39

A few mods were made to the steering and reinforced the motor mount--------
would like to see pics the mods of the steering and motor mount, glad the maiden turned out good for you. scott

dont have any yet, but will try tomorrow

I got this plane for Christmas!!!!!! Boy, those main decals were a PITA to put on, but look great. The stupid Nose gear grub screw keeps coming loose/isn't holding. Did you guys come up with a mod for that? I also noticed the nose gear wire didn't fit very nicely into the wheel pant where the slot was cut out, and the nose gear fairing was a bit tricky to assemble and install. This is my first ARF, and I feel I did pretty good! When they said to cut away the covering on the hinges, I cut it way to much, and I can see wood in the hinges no mattter what angle you look at it. Some white paint will fix that up. I got the SS 35A ESC and the Rimfire .10 spinning an APC 10x7E prop. I just ordered some Futaba S3114 servos from Tower. I am going to trade in my DX6i and get a Futaba 7C and a R617FS reciever. I will be using a Turnigy 2200mah 3S 20C LiPo. I have been using the HK XT60 connectors, but want to be standard, so I got some Dean's connectors from Tower also. This plane rocks. What do you think of this setup?
Thanks!
Alex

Well you had a Merry Christmas!

Except for the Dean's I think your setup is good. I like the plane on a 3300mAh battery. The extra weight fly's better, and the motor is very electron hungry.

I replaced the small grub screw with a socket head screw. That and a carefully cut "flat" on the wire will help you keep that wheel from spinning around.

Best of luck, and enjoy your new plane!

Thanks! I think I will so that. My dad has a bunch of those where he works in the designing section. I thought of the flat too, but thought it wouldn't help. But I'll try it! Why don't you like the Deans?
Thanks!
Alex

Dean's are fine for 30 amps or less, but they are expensive, and clumsy to solder. The flat ends also collect carbon especially when used at 40 amps or more. They are not self-wiping like some connectors. The steel springs can also short the connector when they decide to "depart". Some folks solder them connected together when the manufacturer tells you not to, but they do it anyway because it appears easier. I use alligator clips on the side opposite the solder joint in a holding fixture to solder my Dean's. This acts as a good heat sink to prevent over-heating the connector.

I avoid all that potential trouble and disadvantages by using EC5's and EC3 connectors. Actually, I have started to use XT60's instead of the EC3's, because, I am lazy, and the batteries I buy already have them installed on them. I use the EC5's on every battery I have that is 3300mAh or over.

You will undoubtedly hear a lot of opinions about this subject. I have settled for what I like, and what has proven to work for me. So far the connectors I have linked have lasted for years without any trouble.

Nick

Thanks for the info. Many people really like/d Deans, but there seems to be a "rebellion". I wonder what the next "Big" connector will be. I want to be like everyone else, so if I want to borrow a watt meter or somthing, I have the same connectors.