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Old Mar 21, 2012, 05:47 AM
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Nothing to do with FPV i'm afraid, but just wanted to share a short time lapse I made last night.

Night Sky time lapse, Canon 550d Standard kit lens (0 min 40 sec)
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Old Mar 21, 2012, 06:46 AM
Dirty Dozen FPV
Wayno Complaino's Avatar
United Kingdom, England, Milton Keynes
Joined Aug 2011
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Originally Posted by topgearuk View Post
Nothing to do with FPV i'm afraid, but just wanted to share a short time lapse I made last night.
Nice. Done a few with my go pro and have just got a 550D and not had a lot of time to play with it. What settings were you using here? Shame about the light local pollution being visible.
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Old Mar 21, 2012, 07:04 AM
um.. yeah, I can make that fly
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United Kingdom, Milton Keynes
Joined Jun 2007
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A few things to remember about lithium battery's when your contemplating setting them off;
1: they contain cobalt to help raise the trigger point of their chemical reaction, cobalt is a member of the lower radioactive series of metals. So if you vaporise it and inhale it your getting irradiated.
2: The "smoke" released by an actively reacting lithium battery has a similar effect on the soft tissue of the lungs as isocynaide found in automotive paints, it in effect dissolves these tissues and can be carsonagenic.
3: lithium batteries don't "burn" as they can have any of the sides of the fire triangle removed and continue to react. Their trigger point of roughly 120 deg C will set them off to a peak of about 850 deg C while reacting. It isn't their bond with oxygen that causes them to react either. It's when the lithium foil makes contact with another, begins to rapidly discharge, as amps increase so does resistance which converts electrical energy into heat.

Another point to bear in mind is that lithium foil has a set C rating of 18. No more no less. To increase this C rating more foils are crammed in to push the value up. A declared "peak C rating" is what you can get away with without causing the trigger point to be reached. Every time the normal C rating is exceeded the lithium substrate begins to beak down. Every minuite into the "peak" C rating reduces the battery life by a factor of 6.

Food for thought :P

CJ
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Old Mar 21, 2012, 07:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Wayno Complaino View Post
Nice. Done a few with my go pro and have just got a 550D and not had a lot of time to play with it. What settings were you using here? Shame about the light local pollution being visible.
Cheers, it was standard kit lens set on widest angle @ F3.5, 13 sec exposure. ISO 1600.. Used an intervalometer set at every 16 seconds, found a field about 10 mins drive away, which was quiet and as dark as I could find locally. Set the camera up on a mount and left it in a field for 4 hours, between 7.30 and 11.30 hence why at the start it looked slightly lighter as it was just getting dark then. This gave me about 40 seconds of video.

Was a bit nervous leaving it there, but checked the weather and no forecasted rain.. I do really want to get a much wider lens sometime, then you can really up the exposer to 25-30 seconds per shot! And yes local light is a killer.

On another note just about to go and do my 1st solo FPV flight in about 20 mins, just moved my stuff from the quad, having all sorts of issues with that at the moment, none FPV related... Gonna use my Multiplex cub.
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Old Mar 21, 2012, 07:38 AM
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I that an FPV screen on your dx8?
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Old Mar 21, 2012, 07:50 AM
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I that an FPV screen on your dx8?
Yes, 3.5" screen I brought and modified off eBay. It's velcro'd on. Will get goggles next.
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Old Mar 21, 2012, 07:51 AM
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Joined Apr 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by topgearuk View Post
Cheers, it was standard kit lens set on widest angle @ F3.5, 13 sec exposure. ISO 1600.. Used an intervalometer set at every 16 seconds, found a field about 10 mins drive away, which was quiet and as dark as I could find locally. Set the camera up on a mount and left it in a field for 4 hours, between 7.30 and 11.30 hence why at the start it looked slightly lighter as it was just getting dark then. This gave me about 40 seconds of video.

Was a bit nervous leaving it there, but checked the weather and no forecasted rain.. I do really want to get a much wider lens sometime, then you can really up the exposer to 25-30 seconds per shot! And yes local light is a killer.
what do you mean by 'much wider lens' in this case? Do you mean lower focal length for more field of view or wider aperture size for more light?

May I ask what inervalometer you used? I'm thinking about doing something like this using Magic Lantern firmware on my 600D now...

cool video, thanks for sharing!

---
BrotherBloat
London RC Project
www.rc-forc3.com
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Old Mar 21, 2012, 08:24 AM
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Originally Posted by BrotherBloat View Post
what do you mean by 'much wider lens' in this case? Do you mean lower focal length for more field of view or wider aperture size for more light?

May I ask what inervalometer you used? I'm thinking about doing something like this using Magic Lantern firmware on my 600D now...

cool video, thanks for sharing!

---
BrotherBloat
London RC Project
www.rc-forc3.com
Thanks Brother!

With a standard kit lens 18-55mm set at 18mm the longest exposure you can take is 13-15 seconds any longer and you will get star trails, I even noticed this slightly at 15 hence why I'm using 13 sec's.

If you buy something like the Tokina 11-16mm set at 11mm you can set the camera to 25-30 sec without star trails.

Worth checking this guy out, his time lapse is amazing, using a canon and tokina lens..

Plains Milky Way (3 min 17 sec)


This is the intervalometer I use, but think magic lantern will do the same thing , I just like a manual control.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Timer-Inte...item484335fbd0

Right I'm going crashing!!
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Old Mar 21, 2012, 08:54 AM
Just clumsy. Oh, forgetful too
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Don't let JamesTheCrash fly your funjet ;-)
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Old Mar 21, 2012, 09:43 AM
I Like Popcorn
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Don't let JamesTheCrash fly your funjet ;-)
Guilty - Its the curse of the FJ
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Old Mar 21, 2012, 09:52 AM
London RC Project
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London
Joined Apr 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by topgearuk View Post
Thanks Brother!

With a standard kit lens 18-55mm set at 18mm the longest exposure you can take is 13-15 seconds any longer and you will get star trails, I even noticed this slightly at 15 hence why I'm using 13 sec's.

If you buy something like the Tokina 11-16mm set at 11mm you can set the camera to 25-30 sec without star trails.

Worth checking this guy out, his time lapse is amazing, using a canon and tokina lens..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KySThq5CxLI

This is the intervalometer I use, but think magic lantern will do the same thing , I just like a manual control.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Timer-Inte...item484335fbd0

Right I'm going crashing!!
that's great advice - I wasn't aware it only took that short a time to record visible trails - I only shot the moon before, but there is so much light coming back from it, there's never a problem of long exposure to take into account! thanks!

cool intervalometer! really affordable - I'll get that, I think!
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Old Mar 21, 2012, 10:02 AM
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Guilty - Its the curse of the FJ
haha! happens to the best of us!

check out my beginnings in Richmond Park:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1057865
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Old Mar 21, 2012, 10:18 AM
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Interesting!!

How so much can be learned in one 20min flight!!

A spotter would have been really useful and I'm sure the twitching of the bum would have been far less! The model is around 4 years old and hasn't flown in a year and a half, so was set-up and trimmed all at the same time...

The screen while a good idea in theory was hard too see in full sun light and slightly better when shielded by my body... I started off flying LOS and trimmed plane out, then started going between LOS and FPV to get a feel, but once you make the commitment to fly FPV there is no going back!! As I couldn't see the damn model, so I flew this way for quite sometime, even when the model was close by and I could hear it I couldn't see it for ages! As I got more familiar with the surroundings it got slightly easier, to know where I was, you have to have real confidence in your senses, when you are relying on an iffy picture and totally on instruments!!

When I had ago of someone else's, I did prefer an artificial horizon on the screen, so this EZOSD is gonna take awhile to get used to and in hindsight maybe the Dragon would have been better!! Still I guess 2 at some point is not out of the question!! After all this set-up was purely only meant for my Quad..

It is all in one piece and will post a short video soon...
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Old Mar 21, 2012, 10:31 AM
Dirty Dozen FPV
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Originally Posted by flylite View Post
Guilty - Its the curse of the FJ
Don't worry, i'll come down and crash one of yours to make you feel better.


Oh, does that mean Mike needs to crash mine to complete the karma circle?
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Old Mar 21, 2012, 10:35 AM
Dirty Dozen FPV
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United Kingdom, England, Milton Keynes
Joined Aug 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by topgearuk View Post
Thanks Brother!

With a standard kit lens 18-55mm set at 18mm the longest exposure you can take is 13-15 seconds any longer and you will get star trails, I even noticed this slightly at 15 hence why I'm using 13 sec's.

If you buy something like the Tokina 11-16mm set at 11mm you can set the camera to 25-30 sec without star trails.

Worth checking this guy out, his time lapse is amazing, using a canon and tokina lens..

This is the intervalometer I use, but think magic lantern will do the same thing , I just like a manual control.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Timer-Inte...item484335fbd0

Right I'm going crashing!!
I use an egg timer to get pan in my time laps vids, cheap and looks great. I wonder what he uses as a 'dolly'.

Once i get settled into FPV (or at least the learning curve starts to flatten slightly) i'll actually start learning to get the best out of my Cannon.
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