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Old Dec 13, 2010, 02:27 PM
DX5e fatal flaw- PM me!!!!
United States, NY, Cortland
Joined Sep 2010
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Originally Posted by The Hog Pen View Post
...or...don't crash it...

...sorry...it was there.
A laudable goal, but the several T-28 outline holes punched in the snow around my house attest to the difficulty of achieving it...


Dave
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Old Dec 13, 2010, 03:27 PM
Go Ugly Early
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Azle, TX
Joined Oct 2010
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Originally Posted by CNY_Dave View Post
A laudable goal, but the several T-28 outline holes punched in the snow around my house attest to the difficulty of achieving it...


Dave
lol...as for me...the nose on my Champ can damn near play the polka as it flies.
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Old Dec 13, 2010, 05:51 PM
DX5e fatal flaw- PM me!!!!
United States, NY, Cortland
Joined Sep 2010
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Several full-throttle straight-down 20-50 foot descents onto pavement on my end...


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Old Dec 13, 2010, 06:50 PM
Go Ugly Early
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Azle, TX
Joined Oct 2010
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Originally Posted by CNY_Dave View Post
Several full-throttle straight-down 20-50 foot descents onto pavement on my end...


Dave
Geez, Dave...that's a lot of time to recover...you drinkin' and flyin'?
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Old Dec 13, 2010, 08:48 PM
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Azle, TX
Joined Oct 2010
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Brain-fart here...HZ sent me a new brick...installed it, bound it, goodto go. Then I had a thought...is there any way to tap into the existing rudder servo, and reinstall my old brick, and use the power from that to actuate the old, still functional servo? I can find a place to install it...and it would make a cheap modification to be able to run ailerons. One would think it would be as easy as splicing the red and blue wires...but I don't know enough about circuitry to know all the ins and outs. Anyone ever thought of something like this?

What about "hard-wiring" in one of these:

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Old Dec 13, 2010, 09:25 PM
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Southlake, TX
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Originally Posted by The Hog Pen View Post
Brain-fart here...HZ sent me a new brick...installed it, bound it, goodto go. Then I had a thought...is there any way to tap into the existing rudder servo, and reinstall my old brick, and use the power from that to actuate the old, still functional servo? I can find a place to install it...and it would make a cheap modification to be able to run ailerons. One would think it would be as easy as splicing the red and blue wires...but I don't know enough about circuitry to know all the ins and outs. Anyone ever thought of something like this?

What about "hard-wiring" in one of these:

Nope, won't work.

What's wrong with you brick? is a FET burned, or does the servo just not work?
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Old Dec 13, 2010, 10:08 PM
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Azle, TX
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Originally Posted by UNGN View Post
Nope, won't work.

What's wrong with you brick? is a FET burned, or does the servo just not work?
One of the servos doesn't work...acts like it's bound up, and struggling. I was told it's probably the FET, even though they don't look damaged. I can only spin the gear about 1/3 turn before it binds.

I'd order the new chips, but my soldering skills aren't to the point where I can do that kind of detail.
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Old Dec 13, 2010, 10:50 PM
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Originally Posted by The Hog Pen View Post
One of the servos doesn't work...acts like it's bound up, and struggling. I was told it's probably the FET, even though they don't look damaged. I can only spin the gear about 1/3 turn before it binds.

I'd order the new chips, but my soldering skills aren't to the point where I can do that kind of detail.
If you have a #000 Phillips screw driver, you can undo the Servo rack, press out the motor with your finger tip. Clean the resistive track with a pencil erasure or Q-tip with alcohol. Swap rack sides to see if its the rack.

If its not the rack, the motor could be weak. You can buy a new servo racks/motors at your LHS part number EFLH1066. You'll have to solder the motor wires to the old ones (easier than soldering to the board), but its not that hard.

Every bad FET brick I've even had gets fingerburning/foam melting hot on the bottom. If it doesn't get hot, it might not be a FET.
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Old Dec 13, 2010, 10:56 PM
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Washington
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Champ Mods.

Here are some pictures of My Champ.

I have added the oversized tires on it now. I really like them.
The lights I built. I just tapped into the battery leads for power.
the P-51 with a 240 MAh 20c battery pack turns the GWS 4530, 5030, and the 5043 very well.

Each prop flys the plane equally well. I like the 4540 for neighborhood flying as it has a significant more punch to really turn the plane on a dime.
The 5030 works very well. This is the prop I have decided I will use when I mount the camera to it. For long flight times and lazy bird touch and goes I go with the 5043. It just feels better at slow and low flying.

Hope to get some flights in between all the rain..
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Old Dec 13, 2010, 11:25 PM
Go Ugly Early
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Azle, TX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UNGN View Post
If you have a #000 Phillips screw driver, you can undo the Servo rack, press out the motor with your finger tip. Clean the resistive track with a pencil erasure or Q-tip with alcohol. Swap rack sides to see if its the rack.

If its not the rack, the motor could be weak. You can buy a new servo racks/motors at your LHS part number EFLH1066. You'll have to solder the motor wires to the old ones (easier than soldering to the board), but its not that hard.

Every bad FET brick I've even had gets fingerburning/foam melting hot on the bottom. If it doesn't get hot, it might not be a FET.
Thanks for that...I'm going to pull the servo rack and check it...like I said, it sounds like it's binding up...like it wants to move.

Quote:
Originally Posted by LndShrk View Post
Here are some pictures of My Champ.

I have added the oversized tires on it now. I really like them.
The lights I built. I just tapped into the battery leads for power.
the P-51 with a 240 MAh 20c battery pack turns the GWS 4530, 5030, and the 5043 very well.

Each prop flys the plane equally well. I like the 4540 for neighborhood flying as it has a significant more punch to really turn the plane on a dime.
The 5030 works very well. This is the prop I have decided I will use when I mount the camera to it. For long flight times and lazy bird touch and goes I go with the 5043. It just feels better at slow and low flying.

Hope to get some flights in between all the rain..
LS...LOVE what you've done with your Champ. Last week, I ordered a 5000mah lipo, UM P-51 motor, and some GWS 5043's. Everything shoud be here in time for a weekend/Xmas break build. I also realy like the fat tires. I prefer leaving the LG on, myself...
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Old Dec 14, 2010, 01:08 AM
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Washington
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Originally Posted by The Hog Pen View Post
LS...LOVE what you've done with your Champ. Last week, I ordered a 5000mah lipo, UM P-51 motor, and some GWS 5043's. Everything shoud be here in time for a weekend/Xmas break build. I also realy like the fat tires. I prefer leaving the LG on, myself...
Thanks.. The Champ was my first plane. So the only original parts left are the brick, Tail wheel, and the wing..

Everything else I have had to replace.. Now that I have it setup I will get out the airbrush and give it some adjustments..
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Old Dec 14, 2010, 06:03 AM
DX5e fatal flaw- PM me!!!!
United States, NY, Cortland
Joined Sep 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Hog Pen View Post
One of the servos doesn't work...acts like it's bound up, and struggling. I was told it's probably the FET, even though they don't look damaged. I can only spin the gear about 1/3 turn before it binds.

I'd order the new chips, but my soldering skills aren't to the point where I can do that kind of detail.
A buddy's champ had a similar problem- a biff pulled on a pushrod and actually bent some gear teeth- was invisible without a magnifier, they did straighten out with a sharp screwdriver to reform them.

Or does the servo turn freely by hand, battery out?

Dave
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Old Dec 14, 2010, 06:05 AM
DX5e fatal flaw- PM me!!!!
United States, NY, Cortland
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Originally Posted by The Hog Pen View Post
Geez, Dave...that's a lot of time to recover...you drinkin' and flyin'?
I tend to have to fly in gusty winds- if you are pointed down and a gust hits from the front, you ain't pullin' out...

And a few maneuvers that didn't come off quite right. If you are low, and inverted, and just as you apply full down elevator to lift the nose a bit a gust comes along andf flips it upright just then...

Dave
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Old Dec 14, 2010, 06:46 AM
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Regarding cleaning the servo track: I've seen several posts where folks have suggested cleaning the track w/ a pencil eraser. I assume by "track" you mean the white plastic device that holds the slider that moves the push rod.

Question: HOW do you get a pencil eraser in there??

Even if I remove the track from the board, it's still too narrow to get something inside....

Thanks!
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Old Dec 14, 2010, 07:15 AM
Power Wheels Guru
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Southlake, TX
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Originally Posted by Flyboy Steve View Post
Regarding cleaning the servo track: I've seen several posts where folks have suggested cleaning the track w/ a pencil eraser. I assume by "track" you mean the white plastic device that holds the slider that moves the push rod.

Question: HOW do you get a pencil eraser in there??

Even if I remove the track from the board, it's still too narrow to get something inside....

Thanks!
The track is the resistive strip on the circuirt board. It appears to micro spark and get carboned up (or that's just dirt).

The rack is the white plastic worm gear holder you have to take off to get to the track.
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