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Old Oct 10, 2012, 12:16 PM
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Canada, MB, Winnipeg
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Check out my Blog - I have photos of a BL setup that I did - I used a AR6400LBL brick, a Turnigy 1S 5A ESC (AWESOME for this application!) and a AP05 motor. THe latter two are available through HK. (including 160mAh 1S Turnigy NT batteries!!)

Feel free to PM me with any Qs. Mine's flying GRRReat!

Sc
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Old Oct 10, 2012, 12:24 PM
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Mike:

The Glue-coat procedure is a coating of diluted white glue (I recommend/prefer Weldbond) over all surfaces (exc. hinges!) on a foamy. I dilute it by~50% (1:1 with water) and then brush it lightly on using a small acrylic paint brush used in modelling applications (my main brush is ~3/8" wide). I use a smaller 1/16" wide brush for tight spots.

Application is 2x on the front cowl (where most of the damage can occur!), wings, fuselage, and tail - I usually NOW do a second coat on TOP of the vertical stabilizer, where inadvertent tip overs may cause it to hit on occasion, the wing/horizontal stabilizer tips, and leading edges of the wing and elevator (horizontal stab).

Yes, this adds some weight, but NOT very much. Perhaps 1-2g max or so, depending upon how thick you apply this coating. HUGE benefit is the extra strength and impact resistance this gives to the plane. I did this recently with my <new> UMX Beast 3D plane, and during one aileron lockup on a handlaunch, it went near WOT into the ground! Only a tiny dint in the spinner, and a micro crack in the cowl, with a small prop bite. Otherwise, not bad at all! I can almost guarantee it would have been MUCH worse without the mod.

Scuffing, dents, and general chips are way fewer with this coating, and the drag is slightly reduced too, since any foam open cells are closed by the glue.

SkyCadet
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Old Oct 11, 2012, 04:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SkyCadet View Post
Mike:

The Glue-coat procedure is a coating of diluted white glue (I recommend/prefer Weldbond) over all surfaces (exc. hinges!) on a foamy. I dilute it by~50% (1:1 with water) and then brush it lightly on using a small acrylic paint brush used in modelling applications (my main brush is ~3/8" wide). I use a smaller 1/16" wide brush for tight spots.

SkyCadet
Is white glue the same as PVA??
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Old Oct 11, 2012, 05:50 PM
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Can you apply this over tape & the decals?
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Old Oct 11, 2012, 06:54 PM
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United States, MA, Malden
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Thank you SkyC, Now the "glue coat" proceedure sounds familiar. A friend/Member (leethetreeguy) mentioned using Elmers glue (as he did on his Champ). I believe it was the same mixture (1 to 1). As everyone knows Elmers glue dries slow giving you plenty of time to spread the solution AND is very strong. You just need time on your hands which I have plenty of

How fast, OR how much time do you have, to work with "Weldbond"? I have worked with (and like) a carpenters glue called "Titebond." It dries in 30 minutes (24 hour cure time). So,,,...I don't think (IMHO) that would be the glue to use as a "Glue-Coat" procedure...the "Titebond" that is

Just trying to keep ideas open

BTW SC, I like your description (write up) of the application "areas."

Mike.
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Old Oct 11, 2012, 07:38 PM
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I have used both Elmers and Weldbond and didn't notice any different between one an other but this glue mod is the single most important mod that NEED to be done before the first flight. If I knew this before I bought the first Champ. I don't need to buy the second one.

Edmond
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Old Oct 11, 2012, 09:35 PM
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OK, Great! Thanks Guys. Time to get to work. BTW, my Champ's verticle stab has a slight horizontal crease. Nothing serious. Will this "Glue Coat" firm it up a bit? Should I tape (small slice) on one side? Both sides? OR, Apply tape "after" Glue Coat? Sorry about all the questions Guys but, I find this very interesting and I'd like to get it right

Mike.
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Old Oct 11, 2012, 09:40 PM
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Originally Posted by mutha View Post
Is white glue the same as PVA??
Did some research and answered my own question.

Yes it is ...
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Old Oct 11, 2012, 10:14 PM
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Southlake, TX
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Originally Posted by Chap1012 View Post
OK, Great! Thanks Guys. Time to get to work. BTW, my Champ's verticle stab has a slight horizontal crease. Nothing serious. Will this "Glue Coat" firm it up a bit? Should I tape (small slice) on one side? Both sides? OR, Apply tape "after" Glue Coat? Sorry about all the questions Guys but, I find this very interesting and I'd like to get it right

Mike.
Clear tape. Once depron is creased, clear tape is best to put the stiffness back in.
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Old Oct 12, 2012, 02:19 AM
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Pretty much any white glue will work as a coating. I prefer Weldbond because it is very easy to dissolve without breaking the emulsion, and also because it dries VERY clear.

I sometimes have used a small "patch" of clear model decal material to reinforce a crease, but usually pre-cover again with white glue first. This adds some lateral strength to the material, I find, esp. if it is creased significantly.

Any way to do it is fine, but be mindful that too much of either solution may add weight. Not a problem with larger models, but micros are somewhat sensitive to signficant additional weight.

SC
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Old Oct 12, 2012, 07:37 AM
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Sayre,PA
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Originally Posted by Chap1012 View Post
OK, Great! Thanks Guys. Time to get to work. BTW, my Champ's verticle stab has a slight horizontal crease. Nothing serious. Will this "Glue Coat" firm it up a bit? Should I tape (small slice) on one side? Both sides? OR, Apply tape "after" Glue Coat? Sorry about all the questions Guys but, I find this very interesting and I'd like to get it right

Mike.
By far the best solution for this is 1/2 or 3/4oz fiberglass applied with with Minwax Polycrylic. Very simple to do, weight gain is imperceptible, adds considerable strength and stiffness and is nearly invisible.
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Old Oct 12, 2012, 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by jimsp View Post
By far the best solution for this is 1/2 or 3/4oz fiberglass applied with with Minwax Polycrylic. Very simple to do, weight gain is imperceptible, adds considerable strength and stiffness and is nearly invisible.
Hi Jim, you now have my attention but, your post is a bit vague. First, is this the 1/2 oz fiberglass you are talking about???
http://www.horizonhobby.com/products...q-yard-HAN3620

I assume this is the Minwax you use:
http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/...tective-finish

Is it possible to be a little more specific as far as the application process and how you do it? The picture of the fiberglass cloth looks heavy but, I know looks can be deceiving. I'm still trying to absorb and understand how this method would be lighter than just a mixture of glue and water. Thanks in advance.

To the rest of you guys. Thank you for your input. Please keep it coming if you think of anything else.

Mike.
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Old Oct 12, 2012, 10:58 AM
Fly em if ya got em.
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Man, I must be getting old Mike. You forget what I tell ya. ahahahahhahaha. I know I mentioned the elmors solution to ya. And on some planes (sometimes) a lightweight spackle can be a good friend. Use your igmagionation bro. You could prolly build a new airplane out of foam plates, and spackle. GO FOR IT!!!
Woot hoot.
Lee
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Old Oct 12, 2012, 11:08 AM
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Sayre,PA
Joined Sep 2002
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chap1012 View Post
Hi Jim, you now have my attention but, your post is a bit vague. First, is this the 1/2 oz fiberglass you are talking about???
http://www.horizonhobby.com/products...q-yard-HAN3620

I assume this is the Minwax you use:
http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/...tective-finish

Is it possible to be a little more specific as far as the application process and how you do it? The picture of the fiberglass cloth looks heavy but, I know looks can be deceiving. I'm still trying to absorb and understand how this method would be lighter than just a mixture of glue and water. Thanks in advance.

To the rest of you guys. Thank you for your input. Please keep it coming if you think of anything else.

Mike.
Both of those are the right products. The fiberglass is very thin and easily conforms even to curved surfaces. Sort of like a very fine silk scarf. Hobby shops generally carry it. Minwax is a water based product with a watery type consistency. You can find it at stores like Walmart and comes in a size as small as a half pint. The polycrylic only takes about an hour to dry.
All you do is lay a piece of the fiberglass on the surface and using a small paint brush in the polycrylic. This will pull the fiberglass down and adhere it to the surface.

Attach is a photo showing a repair I made to the vertical fin my Carbon Cub after creasing it on a landing flip over.
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Old Oct 12, 2012, 11:00 PM
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Joined Feb 2007
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New Champ owner.

Loving the Champ! Been into cars, trucks, and helicopters for most of my life, but have never done a plane for some reason. So much fun!! Only mods so far are the bigger wheels, and tires, and some glue and tape to fix a broken wing, and tail. still flys like a Champ! I would like to get some upgraded batteries that will fly for at least 15 minutes without hitting LVC. What do you guys reccomend without cutting the plane up, and will still work in the stock charger? I will probably end up upgrading to a better motor, and prop one of these days also.
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